You make it cristal clear to your dogs when and how they gonna get the reinforcement. I think that is one of the most important things in dogtraining. Thanks for this tutorial. Again a very good one.
Thank you Emily for another great video! This was a timely reminder for me to use the clicker as I'm raising criteria. I'm focusing on getting basic cues like "sit" and "down" to be reliable when given from a distance and I did fall in the trap of thinking my dog already "knows" these behaviors and wondering why she was suddenly so unreliable. Time to take a step back!
Oh thank you Nagar08! :) Yes. Basically all that is out there is : Stop clicking when the dog knows the behavior. And that pretty much sets owners up to fail, because then their dog tells them "WTF" in response. haha
I remember when my dog as a puppy as we watched your tutorials together she would get very excited whenever she heard you clicking. She was confident she had done something well & a reward was well on its way! Another fantastic demonstration & explanation. You never fail to impress. Thank you. Absolutely loving your amazingly fabulous channel & all what you do. Thanks for posting.
Super great videos and excellent concept I never really recognized but was doing. This is good so I can go back to this to reinforce as needed. Blessings to your journey 🙏
Hi Emily, I have a question about the environmental rewards. I get how to teach the dog to do this before you go do that. But in the case where he's already doing what he likes I imagine it's with a positive interrupter that you interrupt and get his attention and then he gets re-realeased. My question is: if you condition the positive interrupter beforehand with something he finds valuable but not as valuable as playing with another dog and you can even interrupt him a couple times and re-realease him, won't he eventually learn he can just keep playing? I'm not sure about that part, as I imagine it's really hard to prevent him from continuing play if for some reason he remembers he can just do that.
Great tips, I just glanced through the video, but when I have more time I'm going to rewatch it.. I struggle so much with the clicker and timing. I also feel I use the clicker for too long, and it makes it so much harder to get rid of the clicker. I also am horrible with fading out the lure.
basically the technique in the video is to lure multiple behaviors without clicking so the dog gets used to doing multiple behaviors before a treat. You can use things like luring for duration, leg weaves and position changes. For luring, the trick I use is that you lure multiple behaviors and then when you dont use a lure you make it extremely easy. So the dog only does 1 behavior or 1/2 a behavior for a click and treat, then when the lure comes back its much harder, so the dogs start to see when the food goes away it increases the chance of reinforcement not reduces it.
Hi Emily! Thanks for your videos, I've found them super useful! We are expecting the arrival our our new Vizsla puppy soon and I would very much like to train her with a clicker, so I've been watching everything I can. One thing I am not clear about is whether I should be using the clicker with every interaction with her, or only during training sessions. What about when she is playing for example? I just don't want to overwhelm her.
I've literally been trying to train my toy poodle to eat her food with a high value treat, as if it's a trick. That's how little she's interested in kibble.
sometimes if you slightly overfeed they can go off their food. my terrier poodle mix wont eat his breakfast of real meat if ive over fed him the day before. You could also try a different sort of food.
@@kikopup Yes, we'll definitely have to try a different food. As of now she won't eat her food unless we put something on it, and she'll not eat until the point of throwing up the next day.
I learned so much in this video, but am still confused about something. I understand why it can be confusing for the dog when you click immediately for getting into a sit and then adding duration, but what are you supposed to do instead?
this video is great, but can i ask, how would this not directly interfere with any sort of prior "leave it" training? I thought with the "leave it" training the idea was to teach the dog to ignore or not value the environment to a level of wanting to get to it.
So the point is starting to ask more actions before rewarding, teaching the dog that he will not always receive the treat inmediatly and to start using rewards "from the real life" instead only treats and toys. Am I right?
Thank you so much. It was very helpful. I see some people ask a dog to do several behaviors in a row and click after each behavior but reward them only in the end. Is it acceptable too? I always thought that you give a treat after each click.
That's perfectly fine, their dog will learn the click means "good, keep going, you'll get a reward later" whilst treating after every click will teach the dog that a click means "good, have a treat". When you start out it's best to treat for each click, but as training gets more advanced you might work at a large distance from the dog (as in herding, obedience or agility) and find that you want to use a marker that means "good, keep going", not "come here and collect your treat". Of course, not everyone doing distance work uses such a marker, but it's one way of doing things.
Basically the marker tells the dog what to do, its like a cue. For some trainers the click means, you get a treat but stay where you are, and for other trainers the click is like my release cue "get it", Many trainers use multiple markers to avoid confusion. I train the click to mean a treat every time, some trainers use it for a secondary reinforcer that doesnt always predict a treat. I use a different marker that means a treat might come or not. Darn I should really make a video on how to train it! But I do the same as in the video. I say the marker that means so far so good, as Im luring and then give a treat at the end. It can turn into a crutch but if you arent doing a sport like obedeince that requires you have to shut up it doesnt matter if you give secondary reinforcers along the way. I use it mainly when training new behaviors that are complex, like having tug weave splashes legs, to teach the concept of the behavior I want to do multiple repetitions without a treat so the dog can get into the flow of the moment, so each leg weave Id tell both dogs they were doing it perfectly. It can perhaps be a trainers superstitious behavior, but hey whatever works :) Here are someone s notes from my talk on multiple markers from the ASAT conference equineclickertraining.wordpress.com/2018/04/16/asat-conference-2018-emily-larlham-on-using-multiple-markers-to-prevent-mixed-messages/
I used to use clickers but realized voice markers work way better. Voice markers make dog teaching more consistent. Its a pain to always try to remember to keep a clicker with you. Voice markers allow you to mark regardless. Voice markers also allow you to keep your hands free, which is a huge benefit in teaching dogs. You can also use voice markers to add or subtract energy in teaching sessions.
It's a good thing you don't have to use only one type of marker as you can "load" a new marker in a matter of minutes. The exactness of the clicker really helps in teaching new behaviors or raising criteria, especially with a "new" dog.
Its perfectly fine to use a verbal marker you can even make a clicking noise with your mouth as some trainers do. This video explains how you can use a verbal marker and still use all my videos ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-M6B-Q4-nqNg.html I like to use a clicker when I teach, especially when I make youtube videos so I can talk to you and talk to the dog at the very same time. If I was using a verbal marker I have to stop talking to mark the dog, and adding voice over is hard. For a regular person and my clients, I like the clicker because it distances yourself from the training. It becomes easy to see what exactly one is reinforcing. When we use are voices I feel like its harder to pay attention to our timing if that makes sense. I personally like to use the clicker for very precise behaviors, tiny muscle movements, or sudden changes in behavior. For example teaching a leave it where the dog is interested in something and then suddenly you see them turn to you and you click that, or for heelwork where the dogs head moves into the very correct position. For most of the behaviors and tricks I train I use just a verbal marker. But I find for me teaching people and dogs who are new to positive training the clicker helps both the teacher and learner. I use the clicker for training new behaviors in non distracting environments rather than out and about when you need to have your hands free for the leash etc.
Was a bit confused by the first part. I think there needs to be less emphasis/concern about decreasing rates of reinforcement cause then pet owners think they can just stop giving feedback or reinforcing behaviors all together at some point. What about the use of praise as feedback (not followed by food) for pets vs competition? Loved the 2nd part! Premack and more Premack!!!
I personally like to teach puppies in puppy class to work on a variable ratio because what happens when an owner does training, often times the dog will do an incorrect response a few times before the owner reinforces the correct response, and that dog has had to do 3 behaviors in order to get reinforcement. So by teaching a variable ratio to puppies it helps them to be less frustrated when owners have criteria too high in a training session. Well anything you use as a reinforcer you need to make sure it is a reinforcer for the animal and not just an intended as a reinforcer so for praise it might not be a reinforcer for some dogs so needs to be conditioned. Heres some notes on different types of markers. equineclickertraining.wordpress.com/2018/04/16/asat-conference-2018-emily-larlham-on-using-multiple-markers-to-prevent-mixed-messages/
@@kikopup Thanks very much for your response! Yes, by praise, I meant that you are establishing operations with affection/attention such that praise is reinforcing- using your tone, not just saying good boy. It's confusing because some trainers will say they are using a variable ratio of reinforcement in terms of food, but not feedback overall. eg: puppy sit -> good boy ->puppy down -> good boy ->treat in place->puppy OK. Technically not a variable reinforcement schedule right? How does the puppy learn the difference between a trial where he has done the correct response, but isn't going to get feedback, and an incorrect response, where he needs to offer more behaviors to get to the correct one?
Awesome video as usual. When I do a 5 minute training session is it ok to work on 3 or 4 things or is it best to focus on 1 or 2 only, my puppy is 18 weeks old
It really depends on the exercise but yes 3-4 things sounds good. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Wn9qtqlZguY.html this is a video on how long to train
