I love how real you are James. So many stylists portray a scenario where everything turns out ‘Instagram perfect’. This is the reality of being a hairdresser. You’re a realistic ambassador for our profession ❤️❤️
As a haircolorist myself I appreciate your videos because you explain what is happen and are transparent when things aren't going exactly the way they're suppose to as is in real life scenarios. keep up the great work.
Thank you so much for putting this out because I’ve had this happen to me quite a few times! I loved how honest you were. Now if this happens again, I will certainly know how to better approach this!
Its definitely a mineral build-up. In color corrections I was taught to perform hair detoxing by Malibu C product called Crystal Gel under hood dryer for 45 min, and it gives you a clean pallet, its gentle but very powerful treatment that removes build-up from product and minerals. I also do this treatment on regular basis on clients who have hard water at home.Great video, thank you for being real!
@@TheLifeOfHair Was she allergic to bleach? I too feel a tingling sensation when I bleach my hair so if the bleach is a strong one, (there are strong bleaches like Schwarzkopf Blondme which lifts 9+ levels), in general bleaching powders give me the chill...so I use Wella Blondor Soft Cream Lightener, it is not strong, it only lifts up to 7 levels but it has oils in it, it has chamomille oil to soothe the scalp and I honestly can barely feel anything on the scalp with that bleach. And I only use 20 vol developer with it. Maybe strong bleaches are too much for on scalp applications.
Wow love the finale results. Have to say I'm surprised she complained about the heat, considering she did it at home. I guess that's why her DIY didn't turn out, because she probably washed it out to soon at home.
Thank you for sharing! What I find really helps me feel less pain is to not wash my hair before having my roots lightened. If I know I'm getting it done then a few days before, I wash my hair well, use a light conditioner (on the scalp too), and no styling products. Then I don't wash my hair for 2-3 days, so the sebum can build up on the scalp to help protect it. Also make sure you don't scratch your head at all, because you could make tiny (even microscopic) cuts that will definitely hurt.
It is great that you are working in the salon and you have clients waiting. You are really real, you are so refreshing. Love your videos. Thank you so so much.
Hi James well..... that was like watching an action packed film I held my breath for most of it ! 😳🤣 I'm Loving the fact your posting Real life situations and were all So lucky to have such an awesomely talented coach to guide us through these "tricky situations " 🙄😊 I was salon based for 28 yrs and now flying Solo, so miss the " safety" of fellow stylist to Help in this situation 😜 but honestly James you Smashed it as always and the fact she's living in France! Phewwww😜 that should at least save you from another repeat 😜 anyway happy Easter to you and the Fam James and stay well and many thanks, Paul 🐰👍😊
LOL Paul glad you liked it, Yes it’s a different scenario flying solo that is for sure and I’m very grateful for my assistance I always have one assistant to myself generally I train them up through their apprenticeships and then guide them to new pastures afterwards quite often. I have a feeling that Paul even though she lives in France that she’ll be back she was overwhelmed with the result in the end considering what happened throughout. Thank you for all your wonderful comments Paul it’s much appreciated have a wonderful Easter speak next week stay safe. 😁👍🏻
Bravo! You did exactly what you should do and she was lucky to come to you and not someone who would have just pushed past it and made the client feel like she was just being a baby. I’ve heard many horror stories of going platinum, but this was totally well done.
Oh and I used one of your foil techniques to correct a bleach at home client turned out exceptional and was fast with little damage to her hair it's the one with deep weaves and triangles thanks so much
I actually made a decision a couple of years ago not to apply bleach to the scalp anymore. To many problems for some clients. There are plenty of other techniques without scalp applications. I'm also not a massive fan of the look either and way too harsh regrowth.
I used to have clients complain about the lightener hurting and itching when doing a lightening process. But if you've got the capability to choose what cream lightener you get to use in the salon, please try if you can, the ION Bright White Cream Lightener from Sally's. IDK if you even have Sally's in the UK. But it's literally the only OTC product I use in business!!! And NO I'm not any representative of any brand, just another stylist who does corrective color, and vivids like almost evert week. I've made my career into what it is using that lightener!!! I first found it when I'd take my level 2-3 native American hair white, and I mean WHITE! Sometimes grey or I'd put some shade of vivid or pastel to it, but I'd literally wait to get this lightener in my hands before doing my bleaching. Partly because nothing else would work, but also because the condition of my hair would be amazing compared to other on the scalp lighteners. I only ever needed 10 vol for on the scalp on myself to lift my hair too, just saying this lightener is STRONG, but gentle. Whoever, whatever lab is behind making this lightener needs an award!!! The Sally's here in the states are almost always sold out because it's literally so good. I might actually be doing myself a disfavor by telling you this because Sally's was once sold out for eight months.....and I had to use other lighteners that caused my scalp to peel because they would always chemically burn me. Including the Redken blonde icing, which burned with 20vol...and didn't give me a clean lift. Also, years ago I thought Redken was so awesome and amazing and I was so close to finishing my Redken certifcation. I'd only had to schedule the in the classroom week and go and do it. I'd studied/apprenticed under Daniel Rivera for a year when he gave classes in Atlanta back in 08 or 09... But SERIOUSLY after I found Wella, and their umbrella companies, I CAN'T STAND Redken now! Not even their ShadesEQ. Wella has this CRAZY GOOD "brass kicker" progressive toner that you can use in so many different formula combinations. You can even dilute the brass kicker with their "after service sealer" for a one and done quick tone and conditioning service thats done in fifteen minutes or less that you can charge 40 dollars (or pounds) at minimum, 60+ with styling. My favorite formula for super brassy level 7-8 hair that's super porous is; 10g brass kicker, w/ 20g 13v, w/ 20g after color service sealer, process for 8-10 minutes, rinse and condition again with half after color sealer and half sebastion penetrate masque for two minutes, rinse again and style as usual. Sorry if this all seems pushy. I swear I learned all this the hard way because for awhile there I was 100% brand loyal. But just like you I like to educate to help others from making my mistakes. *And if you actually read all this then I just want to say, Bravo! I envy you're ability to be comfortable in front of the camera. And plus, you're one of the few stylists on youtube who has the educating forthrighness keeping it real on here! Not everything is always instagram perfect!!! Keep up the good works. And I'd still watch for some little trick or info I might not know yet, or might've forgotten. The longer I've been a stylist, and even with all the education...the only thing I know, is that I don't know everything!
Miss seeing you James sincerely was sick w the flu type b totalled my car driving from the hospital had no one to call for help just giving you a quick shout out to say I hope your doing well and God bless you and your family and stay well 🙏
Great video. I always get strong irritation from bleach to the point where I feel I cant cope but it doesn't cause damage to hair and scalp, so I ride the storm. Would 10v been less irritating? Would you consider doing a video on toners, there is a big gap on you tube on why you choose what level of toner to use and why you are mixing different toners together? Thank You, Happy Easter.
Yes I also have clients to get irritated and just ride the storm, I just didn’t wanna take the risk on this one, with me this bleach there is no 10 volume in the bleach that starts at 20. Yes I totally have plans for making Toner videos very soon is that they would’ve been out now had we have not been in this situation 😁👍🏻 Happy Easter
Some people have used sugar, I'm not sure which type in particular I've maknoy seen sweet and low sugar used, to help with the irritation of bleach. It doesn't seem to affect the formula but I doubt in professional settings they would use it.
This just goes to show you how often stylists lighten roots too much when there going to do a root tap or shadow anyhow....you used the depth to your advantage. Yay. Love it
That was pure magic!! Beyond impressed at how you saved the day after the first bleaching. Did you ever figure out why she had so much discomfort during the initial bleach?? I would have been stressin!! Thx for your education sir!! 🇨🇦😁
💚 Wow...amazing result with lots of increased level steps played to get her to the result she probably didn't even imagine! Did you pretone, and what developer vol with the HDR on scalp vs shaft? What products did she go home with to maintain that awesome colour of hers? I hope she returns. Awesome vid process, much appreciated...stay well 😊
Great question Heather in terms of the toner no I didn’t pre-tone Both of the toners were done with 15vol Take-home lies she took home Redken extreme shampoo and conditioner and Fanola shampoo, Stay well.
Love how you handled this situation. It’s sometimes that clients want platinum hair but have no idea how it is actually going through this process. After just the slightest tingle some panic and are sure that is an allergic reaction but it’s just active oxygen reaction on their head. Luckily I never had to rinse a client earlier than the process needed, but of course there is always the possibility of some reaction going wrong when there are minerals in the hair, so it’s hard to judge what is actually going on. If in doubt, rather rinse then causing scalp trauma or letting hair disintegrate! I only had foils go hot or doing open air techniques where I felt lightener literally moving on the hair which were done in 5mins so I was happy no damage occurred. You handled it
0 Loopz I get really bad reactions to Kenra high lift colors. Even in just 5 min. Even after washing off it gave me blisters for two weeks. Sometimes clients just have allergic reactions.
Leslie Sanchez interestingly highlift haircolors tend to irritate my scalp much more than a standard bleach with 20vol. I think it’s the high ammonia and high developer combo. On clients I rarely even use 20 vol on their scalp with lightener, most will lift with 10vol just fine. Of course allergic reactions can occur and it’s vital to abort mission and rinse, but when there no signs of strong irritation some clients are just not used to the sensation of lightener. In his video I think he could avoided the ears and neck skin a little more and put a piece of cotton between coated hair and skin, but his second application was spot on. It’s also a good idea to base the ears, hairline and neck prior to lightener application with vaseline
@@TheLifeOfHair yes me too really been a long journey for me I've been super depressed but I'll make it I'm strong thanks so much for responding and talk to you soon blessings to you and your family
Always learning from you J. Thanks for sharing a Behind the scene- that’s reality we go through as HD. Lot of clients brings in that perfect blonde from IG not knowing the millions of thoughts that hits our brains as soon as they pull up that pic from that IG post they found 😆 hilarious and horrifying. 🇨🇦
Loved this video! Always nail biting, especially when you dont know their complete hair history & even more so when you know they have done a home colour job, as You dont know how it would react. Out of interest, do you ever do a strand test when doing a colour correction like this? (I would have just so I wasn't taking any chances, and would have also done a skin test too, just so that I would have had an idea of how it was going to take & any possible reactions - But I know you dont always have the time options in a busy salon, & when someone else is booking your appointments) It makes you wonder too if she was 'having a true reaction' or if her scalp is just a bit sensitive.... Were you worried she may also react as her scalp was sensitised by then to the toner too???? Fab video though, great to see a true to life scenario with a good result, rather than the standard application techniques that everyone else likes to put online! :) xxx
Glad you liked it Nicky, yes I did a strand test prior to doing it and they skin-test so all the bases were covered so it really was one of those moments where you didn’t expect it to go that way. Yes I think she was just Irritated by the product rather than an actual reaction but I couldn’t take the risk hence my decision to remove it. Better safe than sorry 😁👍🏻
The Life Of Hair See that’s the thing, after doing all that you’d be going into it thinking it would all be fine! Brilliant result though...love watching your videos, even more so in lockdown! Xxx
Glad you enjoy that yes we’ve all been there but it’s not one of those things that everybody is talking about I really want to make more content like this it’s not easy though it means filming everything I do and that is very very time-consuming 😁👍🏻
I bleached my black hair it went the usual orange yellow…. I expected that. I toned is not worked out… 🥺 It is a darkish blond brassy… I washed with purple shampoo it went Friday…now I’m stuck in watching this. I need an Appointment!!! ☝️
Hi James, it’s reminding me similar experience 😱....... I don’t know you? But I have realized those last 15 years that more and more clients are becoming very sensitive of the scalp ...... I always try not to forget to ask clients if they are sensitive and check their scalp condition , especially when it’s a first time client .... in that case, using the scalp protect cream or oil which really help any irritation during procedure 😉
Uff....breathtaking... i thought after bleaching and asking her so often if it`s to hot..maybe her hair is fallen out like a "chemical Haircut"..but than all turns into great work. James, you did it again ;-) !Perfect!
OMG love it. In my next life I hope I will not be so lazy and learn this, I still feel a bit down this part of my life didn’t go as planned. Xx (hopefully will still do barbering tho)
I’ve been through those colors have natural light brown ugly blond . Going to retry my attempt at lightening my hair!! Thx! Did 10 processes 10 years ago lol
The result is stunning. well done. I have a question, what do you think of wella koleston permanent dye, i would like to use it as a toner to close the cuticle and hence prevent furthermore damage after the bleaching process.
Thank you Marina, in terms of turning your hair with anything you need to make sure that it’s not permanent because permanent hair colour tends to be more alkaline this will further exacerbate the damage. So a semi or a Demi is preferable because they tend to be closer to the alkaline side of things. once the hair has been bleached is in an extremely alkaline state, So you really need to turn her back to an alkaline state as best as possible you cannot do this in one move though and it means putting something acidic on the hair usually conditioners are acidic, So you have to condition hair multiple times post bleaching to start feeling the benefits of turning her back into an alkaline state. If you have any further questions let me know
@@TheLifeOfHair, you are a God sent :) thank you so much! If i ever come back to uk, i would love to pay a visit to your salon. You do an extraordinary job. Thank you again for your time and patience. Stay safe
My daughter is not a hair dresser & bless her heart an A fit effort. Due to the pandemic I won’t go to hair salon because I’m immunocompromised. Well after the bleach and a level 9 ash color my hair turned red. My hair looks like your clients hair. I didn’t know what to do so I went a level down to an 8 ash. My hair is a lesser orange on top and darker on ends... I’m in USA and need help correcting my hair. I have pics if you wanted to see. Thank you for all your information I think your explanation is helpful. For my hair I don’t want to over do it. My hair wasn’t colored for 7 months prior to last week, the bleach and color turned orange. Help! Thax!
Hi Rose if you have Instagram the best thing to do will be to send me those pictures so I can see what’s happened to your hair and maybe try and give you some advice. Space my Instagram is @thelifeofhair1
Loved the video. You have helped my hair game so much! Thank you. Wanted to share with you what I use before a bleach application I also reapply if they complain. It's instant relief for them and if applied all over before I usually have no problems unless they are allergic. "Color prep spray from Eufora color".
I Have been hairdressing for over forty years and it was nice to see that everything you said and did was also my procedure , its important to be honest and not to let your client talk you into leaving it on and then damaging their scalp, you wouldn't stand a chance if they took you to court, we should be professional enough to know when to call it a day ,AS YOU DID well done.
Yolanda that’s a very good point, yes I think there are products that create irritation out there obviously we can all be irritated by even expensive products but some products with cheaper ingredients can definitely cause more irritation 😁👍🏻
My hair dresser says that some products with high silicone can create a layer on the hair which prevents the bleach from getting to the follicle so can cause uneven results
@@TheLifeOfHair If I'm doing a big bleach job on a client and they have very clean hair, even though I instruct them not to wash their hair for 3 days minimum prior, I will add Rose Hip oil to their scalp before I begin to bleach their hair. It seems to have cut down on irritation. Even mild irritation, you know when the client says "Is it suppose to itch and tingle?" and you the stylist think "Oh, hell no! please don't start burning"
@@VeroSCIA I do a Malibu C to remove mineral deposits, and if I apply any bleach to the scalp, It's a creamy oil based with a 10 vol. Those powder lighteners burn the crap out of my skin. Some are more gentle than others. I also use Wella's post service "Service" product to stop the bleach and bring the PH back down. It helps with the clients feeling itchy or burn-y. I am not sure I'd have handled it as well with clients waiting. I have no assistant available to shampoo and stall for time, which is what I did for my first boss. I'd slowwwwwly drape the arriving client and take my time shampooing and doing a Pre-Art treatment, and blast therm dry if necessary whilst she'd be bleaching away and toning. Then she'd pass off the toner to me and I'd finish, leaving tbe client 80% dry so she could pop back over and "finish" the style. I tell you, was w worth my weight in gold as an assistant. No clients were the wiser to our pandemonium. HA HA! Good times.
she’s never had bleach before obviously on her hair… it was none stop complaining. You did a fabulous job. I don’t want this to sound rude, because obviously I would not want to burn a client, but there are some that just complain at the slightest tingle or heat. ☹️
Yes Melissa it was a tricky situation indeed I wasn’t really sure what the situation was 100% as you say some peoples tolerances are lower but then again we always have to air on the side of caution so instance we had to pivot and change the plan
So glad I found you!💜 I really appreciate your videos! I've also registered to your online platform! Extremely helpful!✌💜✅ Please continue doing this! We need masters like you!👏
Great video mate, thanks for posting real stuff like this that happens in the salon. It’s not always going to go to plan. But it turned out amazing in the end anyway 😊👍 Did she wash her hair just before the service? That tends to make the scalp more sensitive from my experience. Is this what you recommend too? Or do you always do your scalp lightening process on cleanly washed hair? I always suggest to not wash hair that day at least or if they have a sensitive scalp even let it go a bit longer and let the natural oils on their scalp build up to protect their scalp from the lightener. But I also add oils to the lightener too sometimes. Some lighteners have them already added of course but I like adding extra at times when it’s needed. I usually add some hair oils. Pure Apricot oil, argan oil, even lavender, jojoba and coconut in small amounts etc. I normally just add some drops of diamond oil (depends on the client how much I use) or similar brands of hair oils and of course I add some olaplex or other brands like cure plex etc which also helps the scalp and hair. Also using a lightener for sensitive scalp and less volume peroxide too. What lightener do you recommend for people with sensitive skin? Hope your beautiful baby and your family is doing well in this horrible pandemic 🙏 Love your videos and look forward to them, you’re such an amazing hair dresser James. Thank you for your wonderful videos mate. Take care 😊
Thank you Becksta29 very kind, I did recommend that she didn’t wash her hair before the service I always do as you said in your comment, So it could’ve been that she did wash her hair beforehand maybe I also believe that’s not washing it beforehand gives another more comfort. The bleach that are used Redken power lift has got lots of natural goodness in it to keep the scalp feeling comfortable throughout, generally it is the least uncomfortable that I used even clients that are normally complaining don’t normally complain with Powerlift. The lowest developer in power lift is 20 volume it’s my go to bleach for people with a sensitive scalp it’s not that I thought this lady had a particularly sensitive scalp but she had bleached her hair not that long ago herself at home so I was cautious. Thank you Becksta I hope you’re enjoying your Isolation time, Stay safe stay well speak soon.
@@TheLifeOfHair oh thank you very much. I am absorbing what I can about bleaching as I am about to bleach my son's hair. He has virgin hair. He is between a level 3or 4 (to my untrained eye). I am planning on doing 30 vol with bleach, if it is still too yellow then maybe go back over with 20 vol. then im going to "attempt" to do a shadow root with guy tang 6ss and 10 vol and the mids and ends I am going to do wella colour touch 8/81 with 20 vol. he probably wont be back at uni until September now so plenty time to grow it back if we need to take the clippers to it lol
I am not a pro but I’ve been covering my grays myself for years, just a single process but with salon quality products. Never ever a box dye. I just gave myself a home bleach job, took my time and even did the color correction myself too! Brought my hair down from a solid level 5, maybe even as dark as level 4 (because of the intensity that an only an NN dye can bring ) to a level 7, nearer to an 8 at the ends and a tiny bit through out. So after toning I ended up with a cool dark blonde, with very soft highlights through out to give my hair a bit of dimension. The roots are darker and I have no demarcation. And with as little damage as possible! I took that this not something that can be rushed to heart and did all of this over three weeks. My hair feels and looks great! Wish I could post a pic here, so proud of myself! Seriously though, MONTHS OF RESEARCH! Educating myself on levels, tones, lightening, methods and techniques for how to successfully achieve what I was wanting to do. Honestly, concentrating a whole lot on what NOT to do probably as much as what TO do 😂 Lots of time spent learning how to deal with orange and red, which I knew I’d have to contend with from the many years of dyeing my grays, my usually medium to dark brown using double intensity to cover those stubborn grays... I could not be happier with the results. Even going to a salon, my stylist could not get my hair as cool as it is right now, anytime I’ve had it professionally done it continues to pull a red tinge in the brown. I can not believe I was finally able to get rid of that and I didn’t have to pay someone else to do it. I’ve also learned that working backwards in two different mirrors to see the back of my head isn’t as hard as it first seems 😂 Anyway, it’s videos like yours that gives such a complete and thorough verbal explanation and visual aide and is what helped me along. I can read about something over and over agin, but it is so much more helpful to hear it explained and watch it done. It’s what makes my brain absorb and better understand all the information I’d been reading about, like flipping on a switch. So THANK YOU!!! I’m one of those people that when I want something done in a really specific way and I can’t quite explain it but I can clearly visualize it, I teach myself how and do it. I even just remodeled a bathroom myself; demolition, tiling, plumbing, and even built a small custom shower with built-in shelving and a bench!!! All self taught, with the help of experts so kind as to share their secrets 😉 So again, thanks a lot!!
Wow thank you that’s fantastic comment lovely to hear that you’ve got the results that you wanted in the end and your patience and educating yourself paid off immensely and I’m super impressed about your bathroom to I’m so pleased I could’ve been assistance to you on your journey of colouring your hair
Ohhhh that was tense to watch hahaha I thought that it was a video that wouldn’t have a good ending, but your professionalism was stronger than the situation and you delivered a wonderful job!!! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Thank you very much Amanda this was Redken HD resolution which is now discontinued the root area was 10.2 with a dash of 4.22 and the ends were 10.1 and 10.2 equal parts
I've had a chemical burn from a hairdresser I had seen priviously and was ok. But this time, my scalp was oozing, red, irritated,dry...It was horrible!
Hello, I was going back through your videos, was wondering if you could do a video on how to care for your hair once it has been colored, highlighted, (processed hair) which products you would recommend and why? Why hair cuts are important to the health of your hair. There is more videos on how to get hair colored, highlighted, some hair cuts, but not a lot on products, what’s important for over processed hair. The ones that do talk about products, never show the actual hair before or after. Why your hair breaks off? How you can prevent it from doing this? Being in state lock down has been hard for everyone, so I’m trying to watch and learn from the professional side rather than what the amateur person is using, which in the end could possibly damage your hair even more. Thanks!
Wow, great video! So how do you tell the difference between someone who’s scalp is feeling a normal level of discomfort from the bleach, but who might not have much experience of having their roots bleached so they feel as though the pain is very intense and they’re scared their hair might break off, as opposed to someone who’s experiencing abnormal pain? I had my hair bleached in a salon (many, many years ago now). I don’t know what went wrong, but I walked out of there with chemical burns to my scalp. I had blisters over the next few days and it took a long time to recover (I don’t think my hair has ever been quite the same since then - can chemical burns affect the hair follicles??)
Yes Joe that is a very good question it is actually very difficult to know whether the client is panicking due to discomfort or not used to the experience or whether they are actually having chemical burns I always air on the side of caution if they feel like they are in some level of discomfort then I will generally remove the colour I obviously explain the consequences of removing the colour before I do but I generally go down that road 😁👍🏻
Also thank you for smashing out the the great content and videos, I recently did a light balayage on myself and retouched my roots with a loreal level 4 and the ends with a ten vol bleach I got some nice results! If I wanted to tone at home I don't have any brown toners here I only have ash level ten and sandy blonde express toners, have I any way of using my colours for the ends ? I heard if you add water you can dilute 10vol with a colour? Thank you stay safe 😊👍
That’s great Mandi I’m glad you’re enjoying the content, generally adding water to a colour just dilutes the peroxide Making the peroxide and lower volume a This means you’ll get more colour deposit on the hair That’s a tricky one one thing you could do is mix the four into the ten so for instance 30g of level ten to 5g on level for Obviously I can’t see your hair right now so this is just retrospective information to give you some inspiration 😁👍🏻
I love when she strated getting scared of the heat and u lost ur words for a moment 😂😂😂 happens to me alot and i feel so embarassed thinking profesionals never lose thier words
Bleaching is painful. I have my hair bleached every 3mos for 4 years now and i know the discomfort. However beauty sometimes need sacrifing comfort. All love ❤❤❤
Thank you for this video! Can i just ask - when you applied bleach the second time off the scalp, was it still with 6% (20 vol) developer or did you go lower?
