I did some autogenous welds on stainless sheets about 1/16 thick. Unfortunately I did f up and put two plates in wrong position (one box had two holes against each other and the other one had none). Took a piece of scrap sheet and simulated that weld here. Had a hard time to separate those plates without destroying surface, so I decided to fill that one hole, repolish it and drill one into another part. Saved me a lot of time and suffering.
Thanks man im so stoked how its turning out. We have Project Priime on board doing production and just keeps getting better go check out some of theyre stuff on youtube we have a bunch of builds going on. They do amazing work. Thanks for watching man
Well from the video, they make it seems as though if you fuse aluminum it will fall apart. Because it's not applicable many would assume it's impossible. It's not, I can fuse a outside corner and then fold it over and still hold without breaking.
Few questions. Please answer in serial order 1. For welding 0.6 mm stainless steel 304 which welding method should I prefer mig or tig 2. If I use tig welding on 0.6 mm SS 304 should I use filler rod 3.which welding method is expensive mig or tig 4 while browsing i found people generally prefer mig more than tig,why 5 which welding method is more expensive mig or tig 6 can I use carbon dioxide instead of argon for SS welding 7 how often we need to change tig welding tip
In my personal opinion and preference although im not well experienced. 1. I prefer TIG 2. Yes (personal preference) 3. TIG (in my country) bec argon and any TIG consumable much expensive 4. MIG and also FCAW was much easier compared to TIG 5. TIG (same as reason no 3) 6. Yes, but if you use pure CO² the material will lose resist corrosion ability so better use mix between Argon + CO² (use CO² less than 5%) 7. Personal preference, if i want to change it then i just change it lol.
Anytime I fabricate any Stainless Steel architectural parts that are going to be polished, then sit and look pretty, I almost always fuse, unless I’ve got gaps. Not using filler makes polishing much easier. I also fuse when welding Stainless sinks, countertops, etc. this insures there will be no contaminates introduced into the weld pool from the filler wire.
Absolutely man thats whats so nice about stainless is knowing all that kind of information and taking that into consideration when fabricating thing can make the job alot easier. Thanks for watching
I use a jewelry tip with gas to fuse weld cones for sheet metal expansion chambers. Use the outer part of the flame to preheat the metal, them use the inner flame tip to walk the flame along the joint. Keep the flame almost tangent to the curve of metal and just move the flame along and it will fuse together almost seamlessly. Tig is to slow for what I do.
Thats crazy ive seen it and it can get pretty intricate, ive never done it. Jewelry woukd be pretty cool to do i bet once get into it and have all tools to do so.
Sounds interesting. I'm trying to understand what you're explaining, but I don't really understand. I looked to see if I can find some RU-vid videos of this, and can't find what you're describing. Could you point me to a video that shows your method? Thanks!
On that I would not use that. I feel like it's causing way too much undercut. It's good for tacking, on some bigger stuff I like to tack it that way and then recheck measures etc. It comes down kinda easy. If everything is OK I reinforce the tacks with filler wire (they really like to pop when welding) and weld it. Good when You are fitting frames or something like that to be MAG welded. When stuff must be gas tight or something I'll maybe fuse it because I feel like I am more sure about the material bonded together without any holes etc. But still I'll do a cap with filler afterwards. But it's all about the material used, thickness, fitup. I feel like thin sheet stainless or thin stainless tubing is best for this application (only with perfect fitup tho). Spot welding can be considered autogenous since no filler is used. But... that's it. It's whole different process. Hope that does cover it. Maybe someone will add something down there or maybe even coreect me a little. Have a nice day.
Thank you for the informative reply@@pawncze; it covers our question well. We've had a MIG for a while, but have added a YW TIG machine recently. It's got a "spot" more that may work for tacking, so we're considering tacking w/TIG and, for thicker steel work, MIG to weld-up. More process options give us more flexibility, but we've got more to learn to use it best.
Spot mode, Cold tack mode or whatever You call it is good for thin stainless tubes and sheets. It would sure work on some sheets of good old steel too, but I've never tried that to be honest. I'm also reinforcing all those tacks straight before welding itself. We just had a job where we did some frames for machines and 2 of us were tacking the whole frames up with TIG (just small "stiches" about 10mm long with some filler wire) and the third one was MAG welding them. We did save a lot of time because she could focus only on welding it and all the setting up parts and measuring and tacking was on us.
Your weld looks far more realistic than say Pacific Arc Tig Weld channel. His weld just always looks shiny and stuff. I'm practicing on some 1mm and 1.5mm stainless and I found as soon as I introduce filler wire into the equation, all hell breaks loose. I'm thinking something that thin is going to be fusion only, because by the time I can get enough of a puddle on those metal to have filler wire, the metal is already cooked. It's much less of a problem on 3mm or thicker metal though.
The chromium has a high activity at welding temperature. Back side of a zero gap weld will oxidize, making a mess looking like burnt sugar, black and bubbly. This make a joint ugly, weak and prone to corrosion. Open root welds get shielding through the gap but still can sugar. Back purge with argon or other inert gas is used after tack weld. The tacks are only partial thickness, easier to do with stainless as it is a poor thermal conductor. Solar Flux Type B can be applied to the ID if the pipe/tube can be cleaned. Most are high purity and must be back purged. One example of good use is exhaust tube. Or turbo headers, run no gap root with Solar B, then fill with water for fill/cap. This also cleans the flux off the inside. Just don't seal it with water inside and make sure the weld area is under water. Sure sinks the heat away so welds stay nice looking.
6061 aluminum is "unweldable" which is why tacking it is awful ... the filler metal is usually 4000 series. I would never fusion weld aluminum, not even for tacking. Hold the part with some sort of jig, or use a spool gun instead.
