When to Start Seeds Indoors 

You're very welcome. I'm so glad you enjoy them.

Thank you very much.

Where’s is this list please?

Thank you, Ed. I particularly appreciate the thought of your Pop-Pop living on. That's how I like to garden, by making and preserving memories. Sounds like you're off to a great start to the gardening year. Enjoy it!

Thank you so much. I'm so glad to hear your children are involved in gardening -- thank you for that!

You're very welcome.

Thanks, Heather.

Hi, Enge. You will probably be okay. The onions take a long time to grow and transplant well even when they're big; I started some onions this week. Oregano is also a bit slow to grow big and transplants well. It is a bit early to start the peppers, but plan to transplant into bigger pots as they grow. I've started a few for my zone 5 garden too. I plan to put them in Wall O' Waters and under plastic hoophouses so I can get them out early this year.

You can do it!

Thanks! Welcome to the channel.

Thanks! Enjoy it.

Thanks, Sean. Glad I can help. Enjoy every step in the process.

Awesome! Thank you!

Glad to hear it!

I’m so cheap I use aluminum foil

I'm in zone 5b

That's wonderful. Thanks for letting me know.

You're right. I have the same chives for three years now.

Thank you for the nice comment.

Now you can shoot at a target, Leonard. Hope to hear about the better results you get this year.

@@GardenerScott A person in my area says she does not transplant until June 1st. Our average date is May 12th. I know I need to watch the weather, but if it is 3 weeks later am I going to be ok, or should I be thinking of pushing my start dates back. She says it is because she has lost a lot of plants.

Leonard, a lot of it depends on what plants you want to start inside. Cool season plants can handle a dip in temperature after transplanting, but the warm season plants will be damaged. Many Zone 5 gardeners, like us, have learned from experience that if you plant too close to the last frost date you run the risk of losing those warm season plants to a late freeze. I use June 1st as my target for transplanting most of my tomatoes and peppers for that reason. However, I do start some at the beginning of May using Wall O' Waters and I did a video on that ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TKG-qhSAX5k.html Season extenders like those and plastic hoophouses and cold frames can allow you to get plants in the ground with less worry about frost. If you don't use a season extender, it's probably better safe than sorry and plant later. Pushing back your start dates by a couple weeks may be wise for this year and then you can get a feel for what works best for you. Remember that recommended start dates are usually a range of weeks, so if tomatoes are 6-8 weeks before the last frost you can start your seeds 6 weeks before the last frost date and the plants will go in the ground at the 8-week point.

Judy, use this as a good opportunity to see how it works with the plants you chose to start. And then modify as necessary for next year. :)

Thanks. You can start just about all of them. I also start rosemary, thyme, tarragon, and sage inside because they take longer to grow.

Thanks!

Welcome to the channel, Bud. Glad to help.

Thanks, Tyson. Good suggestion. I am planning a future video about starting seeds and growing in a greenhouse with those same conditions, but it will be awhile before it comes out. I'll see if I can put together a video later this year that discusses your concerns.

@@GardenerScott thanks again!

The time to start includes the germination time so you don't need to add an extra week. Do an online search for last frost date and your city and you should see an exact date. Thanks.

@@GardenerScott Thank you. I did search for last frost and found conflicting info. May 2nd across river. May 7th my side of river but about 15 miles west and I've seen the 21st. Grandparents always waited till after Memorial Day, but that can be well late. I've decided to add more raised beds even though they dry out quickly and are made of corrugated steel. I'm taking advice from you on using conduit as the PVC got tangled in my hair because we wire a cross brace on😊 Another thing is marking all those covers for beds and other places. Once I have the beds and covers established I think it will be manageable and set for the future. I was going to put overhead shade system with 4x4s, but the beds with hoops and dedicated covers will be cost efficient. I have been ordering things I need this year as we are still doing everything curbside with pandemic. I do want to mention another Money saver--Greenhousemegastore.com I Finally found a place that sells Qualty seed trays to home gardener!! Decent prices, quick service, great customer service AND the trays are US made. They sell several trays, but I chose the Mega Heavy Duty 1020. They will arrive soon, but if they are as strong as the 1020 Mesh Tray I will be Jumping for Joy!! A reviewer said they are heavy like lunch trays and I noticed the corners are not pointed. So tired of those cheap seed trays and covers every year and the fact they pop holes everywhere. Those can be a fire hazard with grow lights. They also sold the soil blocker and my Favorite watering cans by Dramm. To me this was a Huge find!! So I'm almost set. Want to get to the point that I'm not buying hardware all the time and buy seeds and plants instead. We built a small greenhouse awhile back onto the garden shed and I'm trying to figure out a solar array and battery system to heat it. Just want to use it to start seeds and extend season a bit. Also going to run a pump for sandpoint. And the final project is a root/storm cellar as we have no basement. The difficult task is Where to put it. Thank you for answering back and if you have further suggestions please feel free to send them.

Good question. I don't include the week of hardening off in the starting calculation.

I'm near Colorado Springs. Glad they're helpful!

They are. Thanks.