Which 2-stroke oil is safest for your small engine? Temperature testing 6 of the most popular oils! 

Dave, we all needed your in depth video --- I don't know why no one hasn't ever made these tests public-- Thanks Dave !

Red armor all day been using it for years equipment never fails and runs strong

Very interesting...I have been running the Husqvarna XP oil, exclusively, for a long time, maybe 20 years in professional chainsaws ( Stihl, Huskie) and professional weedwhacker/brushcutters,,Always use 89 octane, California fuel. Never had a single problem with it...Never wore out an engine , Probably they are all good as long as you remember to mix in the oil!

I use Amsoil Saber Professional at 100 to1. There is no carbon, no smoke from my two-cycle equipment. I use it in non-ethanol gasoline. I have no issues. I liked your test. I like to think that the higher exhaust temps mean it is getting rid of more engine heat. Thank you for your test. I will always use Amsoil over the others.

well my dad has a 40 year old echo backpack blower and it still works just fine. he used EVERY type of oil you could think of in it. i also have a 25 year old hus.145 bt and just llike the echo have used all kinds of different oils in it and it STILL STARTS ON THE SECOND PULL! just bought a new hus. 570 bts ( wanted the job done quicker, 1.5 acres, i also do 2 other lots, cause i am a nice guy , lol, older ladys). seems to me it is MORE ABOUT HOW PEOPLE TAKE CARE OF THEIR EQUIPMENT THAN WHAT OIL IS BEING USED. i always lean towards using a SLIGHTLY richer mix. 1/32 to 1/16 oz. per mix more. depernding on the machine. that little bit means MUCH LONGER LONGEVITY OF THE MACHINE!! JUST MY 2 CENTS WORTH

For your next test, run the same test but with a 40:1 mixture. It will really be interesting to see how much cooler the engine runs under this condition.

I run the AMSOIL Saber in all my 2-stroke stuff at a ratio of 90:1. I have a Husqvarna blower that calls for 50:1, my old Ryobi string trimmer (with interchangeable tools, one of which is a lightweight tiller that I use a lot in the early spring and late fall) that's 32:1 and my 1972 Homelite 150A that I restored which uses 16:1. All three of these get the AMSOIL mix and run beautifully, and have noticeably more power with this versus the cheap 2stroke Walmart oil I had to use once in a pinch, and the Castor 927 that I've used for years up until I switched to AMSOIL. Most impressive was my old chainsaw which I ran through its paces last weekend and it didn't even flinch. Something I did not do was do any temperature comparisons between the Castor, the AMSOIL, and the cheap Wally oil. So this video was an interesting one to see. I'm surprised the AMSOIL (given the mix ratio you used being consistent through all oils) ran the hottest. I could see it running hotter when going off the recommended mix ratio, given there's so much more gasoline going through the combustion cycle than with other ratios, but again, surprised to see it running hotter with consistent ratios. Great work!

I've used nothing but the husqvarna brand in my 323l string trimmer. Bought it brand new in 2005 and it still runs like new. I like hooskvarna!

McCulloch string/brush blade trimmer (1994), Husqvarna 257 chainsaw (mid-1990s), Poulan 2900 Farmhand chainsaw (2000), & Jonsered CS2152 (2006) - Since the McCulloch & Poulan recommend a 40:1 gas/oil mix, I just use that ratio for all four items (one gas can/always non-ethanol). My grass trimmer is 28 years old, & my newest chainsaw is 16 years old. I use a 40:1 mix of cheap Poulan or Super Tech 2-stroke oil in all of them. The Husqvarna was my dad's saw, & I don't know what he used before he gave it to me 10 years ago. I would rather run a 40:1 mix of cheap 2-stroke oil over any of the oils tested with a higher ratio. My stuff may smoke a bit more than some, but I've also never had to replace a 2-stroke piece of equipment.. My previous 2.5 acre home was mostly woods. My current place these past 20 years includes 70+ acres of woods, & I burn firewood. I don't consider myself an occasional chainsaw user, but I am not a professional logger either.

That was well-designed, and pretty intensive fair comparison. I know it took a good amount of time, and the big thing for me in my small engines, is the use of non-ethanol fuel only, and good 2-stroke oil in the pre-mix engines. Good stuff, Dave. Great job.

It’s one data point about the oil’s flash point. While important, I think it’s more important to know how much oil is on internal parts. There’s other videos that do tear downs of the engine to inspect the internals which I think is far more valuable for determining which oil is “best”.

Been running Amsoil mixed at 3 tablespoons (1.5 ounces) to 1 gallon of gas for over 25 years. Never had any issues of any kind with ANY 2 cycle equipment.

I’ve used amsoil Sabre for 10 years on new and old equipment 80:1 for everything. I have a husqvarna chainsaw that is going on 10 years old and still runs great

Stihl here in New Zealand is branded from Castrol. I prefer Amsoil which has been selling its 100-1 oil for way over 40 years. It's not as you say a claim, it actually can be used way leaner.

Nice test comparison Dave. I have 3 pieces of Stihl equipment and only use the Ultra Stihl oil in all of them with no issues. I think any of the oils you tested are fine when mixed properly. I also only use premium non ethanol fuel and i add Seafoam to all small engines whether it be 2 or 4 stroke. Great video Dave!! ✌👍🎥🇺🇸🇨🇦

It seems to me that all these oils perform the same within statistical variance, at least for temperature. There might be a winner when it comes to protecting the piston particularly under different conditions.

Good testing with interesting results. I would like to see the same test in warmer ambient temperatures and see how that would effect the engine temperatures. I used to Stihl synthetic but i had issues with carbon build up and the screens getting clogged on mufflers. I switched to the Echo Red Armor and it does a great job of cleaning and preventing carbon build up. I run a Landscaping company we go through 10 to 15 gallons a week of 2 cycle mixed gas and I am sold on the Red Armor been using it for a little over 2 years now.

I really like the husky oil. I just had to slip a new ring in my 55 husky and it looked new still inside. Very minimal carbon build and just clean. Back up to 170 compression and runs great!

Thanks, Dave for your in depth real world testing on the 2-Stroke oils. I have always used AMSOIL on my 2 Stroke Quads (Yamaha Banshee 350) 100:1 without any issues. I'll be doing the same with my small engines. I would appreciate it if you could keep up with the informative videos. Subscribed for sure!

I've been using Opti-2 for over 20 years now with no issues at all in any equipment.

Thanks Dave, great comparison, always wondered if the premium synthetic oils were that much better. I use Penrite here in Australia, readily available and never had an issue.

Glad to know I've been using the Stihl Ultra in all my Stihl equipment. 93 octane non-ethanol.

Thanks for the time you took to do your awesome test. I would have been curious to see the results with a real crapy oil just to see the difference.

Great video, but l would run the saber at 80 or 100 to 1 like amsoil recommends. They have tested that oil at that mixture and it works. You can see their results on their website. As for which oil is better, a long term test will be more conclusive to see the amount of buildup on each piston, exhaust port, and combustion chamber. Motors that l use and/or work on with saber and red armor are super clean inside. Motors run the stihl orange bottles and ultra are dirtier (piston has deposits, exhaust are dirty etc). I run some of my equipment on saber 80:1 and others get red armor.

Dave you sum gun!!! Outstanding job, and appreciate the effort and hard work! Ya know, you sounding more and more like Don! 😆 IMHO, Husky and Red Armor, rest are garbage! ‘Richard Flagg’ has torn down engines, and says stay far away from Stihl ULTRA! My smallest Husky 345, is about 17 years old, and I recently pulled the Muffler, and the piston looked factory fresh! NO Joke. 90% of the Fuel run through it has been Husky oil, mixed at around 45:1. Rest has been PreMix. Well done Dave! 👍✌👊😊

The mix in the left over gas container must be awesome!

Been a small engine mechanic for many many years and rebuild a lot of small engines, landscaping equipment, dirt bike engines & even RC airplane gassers included. None of the oils you tested outperform Redline Racing oil for ring & cylinder cleanliness & possibly longevity. None. The large ester base-stock they use removes contaminants much better and lubricates in extreme temp conditions (like lean runs on our RC engines) much better than other oil too. Now I haven’t thoroughly tested the Husky or Echo brands, but the others I sure have. I can speak from many many years of experience. I used to be 100% all in on Stihl Ultra Premium oil for small engines until I started noticing a trend in my own personal engines during rebuilds; way too carboned up. For example, we retune these gas 2T gas RC carbs on every single use, unlike the landscaping equipment which the needles are rarely ever touched. Even then, too much carbon buildup over time, unless ran extremely rich & under low stress/load conditions to continually wash out the combustion chamber. Ever since switching to Redline, my engines, and the rebuilds I do for customers have noticed a massive difference in consistent running due to lack of carbon buildup. The top-ends look nearly new! I’ve never gotten the hours on any engine that we get from Redline synthetic oil. There’s a reason even Desert Aircraft (DA) now only warranty their engines & military drone engines when used with Redline Racing oil. No one has more rebuild data than those guys. Period. 👍 All these oils are great and beat the Dino oils of yesteryear, but a couple of them are still the reigning champs. An no, I have affiliation with Redline but the results have spoken for themselves in my own experience of small engines. Thanks again for a great video. I’ve always been curious in exhaust temps between the brands. Head temp data above the exhaust port or under the plug via telemetry sensor would be the way I would have done it as some oils extract head heat better than others, but should show-up in exhaust temps like you’re doing here. Thanks again!

Thanks Dave for your work putting all this together, the first thing I noticed is there were no red flags on any of the oils, that is, they all do the job well and that’s encouraging to know

I read that Amsoil 100:1 was tested at 200:1 during development with good results. Hence when I use it, I mix it at 100:1 for a blower or trimmer, and maybe 80:1 for a saw if I'm working it hard. Always ethanol-free gasoline, and I've never had a clogged exhaust or failed carburetor or bad fuel lines. I'm still using some equipment I've had for 20+ years! Well... I did have to replace a fuel hose on an old McCoulloch trimmer that is 40 years old😂

Funny to read the comments, some people will defend their oil regardless what the results. Any brand name oil is fine, your engine won't know the difference. Many people use Walmart Super Tech oil with many years of service and amazing testimonials.

Nice video. I would take the temps while engine is still running and ambient air temp is the same for all. Metal cools so rapidly that a few degrees difference can happen in fractions of a second. Think of a welding bead and how doing a slight side to side movement while welding allows the metal on each side to cool enough to help prevent burn through.

By reading exhaust temperature, is a good indicator of fuel combustion rates, not necessarily the anti wear quality of the mixture. Crankcase lubrication, and piston wear would determine the oil’s ability to lubricant. It is my opinion, that a slightly richer mixture of oil-to- fuel ratio would extend the service life of 2-stroke engines. Non ethanol fuel @ 89 octane, with 40:1 mixture of synthetic oil. I have a brand favorite but, that’s not as important as the mixture ratio.

In my country Motul 800 Road Racing and Ipone Samourai Racing 2t are considered the best.👍

I like the Red Armor 2 cycle engine oil 🛢 from Echo the best.

This test was awesome!! I've been asking donyboy73 and several other channels on what the running temp of a blower should be and no one really knew the answer. Thank you so much Dave for taking the time to do this test. Now I'm not worried because I thought my blower was running to hot😆😆 your awesome, I hope you and your family have a great Christmas and wonderful New year. 🎉🎊🎉🎊🎉

Amsoil 100%. It’s all I use and recommend.

Great video, excited to see how the stihl premium compares with its competitors. Thank you Dave.

I use regular grade ethanol gas with marine stabil added for all my 2 cycle equipment. Just fired up one of my Stihl saws that has been sitting for about 3 years with old fuel mix in it. Cranked and runs well with no carb problems. I usually have some fuel mix that is a year or more old and never have any problems. Type of oil I have been using is a no name synthetic multi purpose oil mixed at recommended ratios. In 30 years of using saws, weed trimmers and even a Suzuki LJ20 2 stroke jeep I have never had any failures whatsoever using cheap oil as long as I mix it according to manufacturers recommendations. I use saws regularly and do not consider myself a novice. With all that said, i do believe the oils you tested are very good oils, and there are several others out there like Honda HP2, schaeffer's, Maxima, etc. That are really good as well.

Interesting test but there are quite a few other variables that should be considered before drawing any conclusions from your test and that coolest oil equals the safest oil. The question you actually answered was what is the muffler / exhaust temp of a given oil blended at 50:1 with a fixed fuel to air ratio (i.e. the same carburetor setting). This tells us very little about a given two stroke oil’s lubrication and anti-wear performance. Each of these oil blends likely has a slight difference in viscosity. This in turn affects mix viscosity and the fuel to air ratio of the charge going into the engine if the carburetor settings remained constant for all samples. The fuel to air ratio directly affects the exhaust gas temp to a large degree and it takes relatively small changes in the mix viscosity and air temps to vary the fuel to air ratio. For this test to give conclusive results, the fuel to air ratio and the oil to fuel blend ratio (the mix) would both have to be held consistent. This in turn would tell which oil actually results in the coolest muffler temps. Does this leaf blower have a catalytic muffler? If so, that would also another variable affecting the exhaust temps as excess oil in the exhaust gas burning off in the catalyst would cause an increase in muffler/exhaust temp not related to internal friction of the engine components. The amount of excess oil in the exhaust would be a variable affected by the exact properties of each oil. The real purpose of the oil is to lubricant which in turn reduces wear of engine components. Just because one oil give a cooler muffler temperature at a fixed fuel to air ratio doesn’t really mean anything in terms of that oil’s lubrication, anti-wear, or deposit formation performance.

nice job. personally i use red line synthetic 2-stroke oil in my chainsaws.

Very cool test. Personally in the summer I run Maxima 927 castor oil. In winter Maxima K2. I had good luck with these for years in dirt bikes so just put it in my power equipment. Thanks for sharing

Hey Dave. Great video and thanks for your work. I never thought about different temperatures by using different oil-brands. Awesome results. Greetings from germany, Stefan

Mercury Quicksilver 2 cycle mix 40/1 it's good enough for a full tilt outboard running wide open throttle under heavy prop load and yes it shows a lawn mower on the bottle ! I have ran it for a while now and absolutely no issues even with a handheld leaf blower running wide open till I ran several tanks of gasoline through it !

Great test Dave! Thanks for taking the time and effort to produce it.

I still love my red armor. It cleaned a 10 year old backpack blower to almost new. Was gull of carvon from using cheap oil and ethanol gas and ran it for one season eirh ethanol free and was almost perfectly clean. Cant beat it. Theres fanboy everywhere. I like that you put the gas you didnt use in one tank haha. If use that all day.

Nice work man! I enjoyed every bit of detail you added to make sure everything was consistent. I loved to see fluctuations in Temps between all the oils like lu

Neat test. I've ran the Amsoil Saber in my MS251 with good results since I bought it new back in 2015. Though I've kind of cherished the one quart bottle I bought as it's hard to come by. I still have enough left for mixing two or three gallons of fuel. The store I originally bought my bottle from no longer has it as they're having a hard time getting it supposedly. One of the other stores I shop at frequently sells Amsoil's two other pre-mix oils I'm going to test. According to Amsoil's own website they support the same oil qualifications as Saber does for hand held power equipment. They're just not directly advertised for use in power equipment. I've read a lot of positive reviews of people using Interceptor and Dominator in their equipment as well as their dirt bikes so I have a quart of each to test. Those are both in store so I'm testing out what can be easily grabbed off shelf before I resort to ordering off the internet. :)

good video Dave!

If temperature is your sole metric for success, you need to control for changes in ambient temperature as well. Assuming the requisite drop in temp as you burned daylight, Amsoil had a distinct advantage over all the others, especially compared to the Echo-branded oils which were disadvantaged by the presumably highest ambient temps at the time they were tested. (I don't work for any oil companies or any of the brands mentioned.) Given the 74K views, it was probably worth your time anyway.

Would have been Nice to get cylinder temperature too, that would show more of how well it's lubricating..

Nice test. I use, feel comfortable with, and don't mind paying up for the Stihl Ultra HP synthetic oil.

Brp (ski doo), amsoil, polaris, cat..etc...any of the snowmobile 2 stroke oils and youll never go wrong. They make turbo 2 strokes of near 200 stock hp in sleds thrive so good enough for small stuff. I personally use the Bombardier mineral oil (50 bucks or so, 4 liters, synthetic is more) in all my old professional McCulloch chainsaws, one going back to 1971. Never even foul a plug. Pretty much 40:1 mix with no ethanol premium.

Correct me if Im wrong. You measured the temperature of the muffler? A more accurate comparison would be to measure the cylinder temperature and the crank case temp. Added temperature due to friction would determine which mix is doing its job lubricating the internals. Just my opinion.

Maybe another test with some other equipment and different ratios would be necessary? Thanks for the video and keep up the great work. 👍

I appreciate the effort that Dave put into making this video, and I really like Dave’s channel. However, I have to say that I’m not sure these results mean anything at all. There are so many factors with oil properties that I don’t think minor temperature differences in the exhaust tell you anything at all about how well the oil is performing at its primary job of preventing wear. For instance - in the previous “50:1 vs. 25:1” video, the richer fuel ran hotter… but that’s not a surprise at all, since the viscosity will be greater. It doesn’t automatically imply that 25:1 is “worse” for engine lifetime. Yes - there is a difference between, say, 400° and 600°, but not between 510° and 540°. That would be my main criticism: that exhaust temp ≠ anti-wear performance. As a secondary comment, I would note that even in the cold, leaving fuel exposed in an open container is going to result in some evaporation, especially since this test took place over some time. Therefore the later mixes will have been slightly richer than ones that were tested earlier. Sorry to have to write such a negative comment. I am a subscriber and like Dave’s videos!

A lil ir temp gun trick i use is to get a sheet of aluminum foil and put it in front of exhaust in this case then temp the foil to get a air temp reading make sure you set the emissivity on ir gun and i do a few control temp reading with any ir gun i have to determine exact emissivity setting

I like AMSOIL'S versatility for different ratio mixes, great video, Dave.

Coolest doesn't mean safest. A higher viscosity oil or more oil will run slightly hotter (and statistically safer), due to residual friction and mass of oil that has to be moved around. That being said I'm not an amsoil fanboy, I run motul 800 offroad as my main oil due to being the one that gave me the best condition of p/c on my chainsaw mill after 1000 hours of runtime on a new set of piston and cylinder compared to 5 other arboristsite loved oils I tried

from personal experience working with a weedwacker i always felt the husqvarna oil was the coolest running

Thank you for all that work Dave. It was a good test and I think the results are valid. Thank you again.

Great job Dave. Would love to see how Redline would compare. Maybe consider a similar test with some of the popular synthetic fuels...Stihl Motomix, Trufuel, etc. When I ran Motomix in my planes, the exhaust was far cleaner and cylinder temps notably cooler. Would be a pricey test, but would be interesting especially against a gasoline control.

The temperature variations results are statistically insignificant as relating to engine longevity. Basically, all of those oils work as intended. If mixed at correct fuel to oil ratios, most brands of two-cycle oils for small engines will protect small two stroke engines. I have two stroke engines that are over twenty-years old that start up every spring and run fine. One is an old Poulan chainsaw that has had different brand oils used in it over the years, usually the cheapest brand I can find at Walmart, Lowes, or Home Depot. Leaf blowers and weed trimmers typically run for extended periods of time wide open throttle. I mix fuel 40 to one in these type engines. My large chainsaws run a 25:1 mix. My smaller saws run a 40:1 mix. In over forty years, I have never had a small engine failure due to which type oil I used. The key to small engine longevity is proper fuel/oil ratio mixing, air filter and oil filter maintenance, keeping cylinder head cooling fins free of dirt and sawdust, and using ethanol free gasoline with stabilizer added, if fuel is stored for more than 30 days. Never store small engines long term ( months or years )with fuel left in the carburetor or fuel tank. Ethanol fuel is the big NO-no for small engines. If left in the carburetor, it will turn into a gel and plug up the small jets, rust the fuel bowl.

If I want to run a JASO FD oil in a certain saw, especially my vintage Homelite and MAC saws, I run Husqvarna XP at 50:1 with PNE gas and stabilizer. My primary oil is 77ml of Stihl Ultra with the same gas and stabilizer.

I could not decide which oil to use, so I mixed them all of them together in the same can of gas.....the blower runs great!

I wonder if ambient air temperature has any effect on the temperature readings, colder air is more dense, would influence the combustion Temps in my opinion, but all in all, a very well conducted test

The final results are so close that it's hard to make any conclusions. A few degrees either way is not enough to say which one is better than the other.

Old timers used straight 10w40 motor oil for pre - mix especially when they ran out of 2 smoke oil" like to see what that compares to the mix & or full synthetic

I run Amsoil Sabre at 100:1 and have several thousand hours with tons of Echo blowers and stick equipment. Never had any failures and never even have to clean the exhaust screen.

I wish you would have mixed all the left over gas mixtures together and then tried a tank with all 5 or 6 oils mixed together! That would have been interesting. Maybe that would have been the best! 🤣 you never know. You could have been on the verge of a huge discovery.

Thank you I love testing have heard a lot of good about the red armor

I wish you would have drained the remaining fuel into the measuring cups to see if there was any significant difference in fuel consumption. My guess is the difference would be minor but a test would have been proof. Another thing that might be interesting is and could still be done after the fact would be some RPM comparasins each vid clip one after the other of startup in idle condition, startup while full throttle, and say 1 minute in in each condition to show differences in how it runs on each fuel mix. What made me think of that is the difference in how it accelerated and stabilized when started at full throttle. It is hard to argue with a good old fashioned drag race comparasin. Thanks for doing the tests and publishing your results I know you spent a chunk of change and all day doing it.

There all fairly close. Not sure make that much difference. With that said looks like don’t need to spend the money on the ams oil. Nice job on the test.

I'm a professionnal forest worker . Bushclearer .I've began my carreer using Stihl lubricants ,but by thursdays i was having nausea . I 've switched to Lucas , i enjoyed it for a couple of years but all my machines were gumming their airbox with unburned oil . I then followed the advice of experimented woodsmen . I 've use only husqvarna oil for the last ten years, its the best oil there is for a professionnal. Oil has to lubricate and then finally burn . Température is not the only parameter . You can loose a lot of time and money because the oil you use make you sick or gum up your work tools .-

I could be wrong but I do not think exhaust temperature is a good indicator of the oil protecting the engine! Also a thicker film of oil left behind could raise the temperature of tool as moving fluids do heat up! So a higher temperature could mean the tool is better protected?

I appreciate your video, not sure if the results relay point out anything which would be meaningful to me. As the day went on the ambient t temperature of colder as the sun dropped which may or may not made a difference. Also it cannot be said if the engine’s storage of heat after time affects the cool down differently. Jerusalem.There was not any super drastic difference which , not me, would say any one brand was junk, nor was any one brand so outrageously better. I feel if an operator uses any of these “brand” oils correctly then it would be just fine. Me personally I have used both the Stihl oils, the Echo Red Armour, and the Amsoil Saber. I like the Amsoil because of the actual metallurgical data and the ability to use at 100:1. To date since changing to the Amsoil Options my equipment rums like a top answer I am saving money. I, just for grins, have looked into the cylinders of some of my equipment that I have used Amsoil in from day one and the metal looks new. Regardless, thank you for your video. I would be interested in what you feel about the outcome of the experiment and also for what other viewers felt about the results as it meant to them.

I guess the only suggestion I would have would be to get the temp of the cylinder head at the spark plug rather than the exhaust. a temp sensor and readout could be obtained from any go kart racing supplier as that's what we always watch on 2 stroke karts. I think cylinder head temp would be more indicative of what's going on in the engine rather than the sheet metal muffler. Those temps could be influenced by a breeze blowing against the engine .

Believe your test results deserves a scientific explanation from an expert in engine and two-stroke oil technology, which I am not qualified to provide. That said, common sense says higher temp either means more friction or more power; which one is it? Would be interesting to know the answer. Would also be interesting to see how the results compare if the tests were run using the prescribed oil manufacturer's recommended ratios. Thanks for your efforts in making this interesting video!

Thanks Dave for the video great information. Take care of yourself 👍👍❤️❤️

It would be a good test to check oil mix ratios on just one of the oils , e.g. Stihl Super @ 25:1 , 33:1 , 40:1 and 50:1 and see what temperature difference there might be .

I'd like to see a temp comparison of any of the oils 40:1 and 50:1

Nice work Dave! Thank you for your time. Now you got me wondering if the higher temperatures burn cleaner

Great video and thank you for doing this comparison.

I like using Stihl mixed with SuperTech but both full synthetic

I have to say that exhaust temperature especially measured from outside, (and possibly too far away with IR gun) doesn't have almost anything to do with how good the oil is. If someone wants to optimize longevity of metal parts, just jet it a bit richer and maybe use a little bit more oil in the mix. Sacrifice is less power and maybe more carbon in the engine. Here are some interesting ideas to test instead (if not already done): -Oil amount inside 2t crankcase with different oils (compare to the flash point in the data sheet) -Oil amount inside 2t crankcase with different mixes. (Use same oil) -Torture test of 2t engine jetted properly with as little oil in the mix as possible. 0.7%, 0,5%, 0.3%? Maybe no one did this before and would make good half educational content. -Carbon cleaning abilities of different oils. -Carbon fouling tendency vs. Oil mix. -etc. I will go check some of your other videos in case you did something similar already. Keep it up. 👍

I only use Neste Pro synthetic gasoline with Neste 2 stroke oil. Stihl 261 runs fine.

Thank you so much for these comparison vidios . Subscribed 😊

In Germany we don't have blue Stihl oil.

All my two cycles know only two fuels - my 50:1 Stihl Ultra mix home brew with premium non- ethanol gas or Stihl Moto Mix. My 50:1 mix contains 84 ml of Stihl Ultra plus one ounce of fuel stabilizer per gallon of gas. I don’t dislike Echo Red Armor or Power Blend Gold, but my second choice is Husqvarna XP, mixed at the same ratios as the Stihl Ultra. Stihl dealers inthe US do not carry the Premium but the HP, instead. It is sold in one gallon bottle versions and not in the liter version sold in Canada. I assume it is the same oil, though- it is tinted green.

I’m using the Amsoil at 100:1 mix. At first I was kinda worried. Now I don’t think about it at all no concern. I use ethanol free gas only in any 2 stroke I run. I use Stabil 360 amber color and it works perfectly fine even at 1.5 years. Keep gas in a sealed can in the shade never in the sun light.

Good material. The Amsoil might be the best at full throttle for keeping the carbon at bay. Just a thought. I got it but haven’t used it yet. The Ultra is what I run in my 261 & 400. I also got the Red Armor and it runs great in my Echo equipment. Again great video.

Not one of those products starting second from the left can come close to the quality of Amsoil Sabre Professional

I only use Opti-2 and gave up on the others, i no longer get deposits or smoke 💨 from my equipment. Wish this was included in your test.

I have to admit....the analytical chemist in me was cringing at the open fuel containers....such volatile stuff (especially before mixing) and airborne stuff going who knows where? Lots of work there.

There is a channel that the guy burned the oil. The one with the most char/carbon smoke was Stihl and the least was Husqvarna. May want to do that test also. I use stihl saws i was a bit surprised.

Been a mechanic in the industry for many years. 20+. I've seen it all. Castrol makes all of the Stihl oil. It's just re-badged. NO DIFFERENT. If I were going to use an actual two cycle oil, it would be red armor. What I do use is Mobil One synthetic high mileage. Might think I'm crazy, but I'll tell you it leaves a nice wet film on all the internals,it doesn't smoke,and I never have to clean a screen. 40 to 1.

You should keep the pre-mixed fuels and do another test a year later.

Tell me you don't live in an HOA without telling me you don't live in an HOA... Proceeds to run a leaf blower outside at wot at night. 😂

I have a customer who added sea foam to his 2 cycle mix fuel. His sea foam had ethanol in it. After three returns of me emptying his fuel and it running right and him bringing it back I finally asked what he was adding to his fuel. I ask if a machine has had additives in it.

Cylinder temp rather than exhaust temp would be a better indication of lubricity imho.

Would like to see a comparison of 50 to 1 and 100 to 1 temperature check on the Amsoil saber