The liners that stick out of the Pro Vibe bar are liners for the di2 cables. I have the same bar and also the Pro Vibe stem and I have run the di2 cables inside the bar and also true the stem.
Shimano’s website states that the PRO handlebar uses innegra fibers with carbon layup which is much stronger, and that’s why it’s heavier and more expensive.
Good video... I am considering the vibe handlebars myself. I am not sure why you keep bringing up the hole near the end of the bar. You don't need it for the bar end junction box. just run a cable internally to shifters. I have done this with my current bars. The fact that the Pro Vibe does not have it means that Shimano (who own Pro) don't think you need it. As to the hole in the back of the vibe, if you run a vibe stem then you can put the DI2 battery in the headtube and run the cables internally.
@@GCPerformance18 honest question: why would you not run all your di2 cables internal? I mean it is a canbus so you just need at least one wire running to each component, in any order. What is the advantage of running another wire along the outside of the bar?
+1. Your channel is awesome but seriously stop drilling carbon bars when you should be running all the cables inside. I have the Zipp bar with fully internal Di2 cables. I did it myself, but had I hired a shop I’d be pissed if they drilled the bar when there was no reason to do so.
In indonesia, u can get Pro vibe for $300 Zipp for $350 Aerofly for $550++ And pro vibe, there's superlight version around 200gr n it costs around $370. They are di2 compatible, both standard n superlight
thats fucking insane!!!!! I mena I am sure the aerofly might be selling online foe that much but I dont think retailers are aloud to sell ti for that much
Sames...I've snapped two carbon handlebars in the past few years. One where I wiped out pretty good. I usually just run some Zipp SL ergo 80 or FSA Energy bars these days.
If let's say I'm riding a Tarmac SL7, the Aerofly II would be the most fitting, but if I run whatever carbon handlebar I want, it'd be the PRO Vibe Aero.
Nice bars for roadies, have you looked into gravel flared bars recently and how well they feel on road bikes? I recently went to a Zipp xplr bar on my Allez and love the flare and design!
Oval alloy bars for me. More comfortable and I prefer the classic look. Interesting to see a fair few pros taking the same approach and swapping out their aero bars, even most of the breakaway guys have round bars. Like internal routing, it’s more about looks than performance. Got to say, I love the clean look of internal cables.
Hey brotha. I don't think the Zipp 70 Aero comes in any other option. The box is just showing the difference between the fits available between the different bars in their lineup. The only aero bar offered by Zipp is the 70 Aero with a 128mm drop.
Thanks for your post on the bar option correction. I just ordered the zipps. Mr. GC confused me with the low drop option, etc. I had to double-check the sram website.🙂👍
@@isn1re It might be too late, but look at the ENVE SES Aero bar. It’s the best road bar on the market. Long as you don’t mount that Zipp bar you should be able to return it. TPC offers $40 off your first purchase over $250, so it brings the ENVE down to about the same price as the Zipp.
Good vid! Thank you! I’ve got an aerofly 1 which is too wide for me 42, so I got a Zipp sl70 40 since the aerofly 3 is not available and expensive. I find the routing in the Aerofly is much easier and it can take a EW-JC200 for power. In the Zipp there’s a lot of residue and the JC200 won’t go through the hole, now I’ve got to figure out a way to get it in completely. Both good bars, Aerofly better quality and better routing. Junctionbox in the bar end no extra hole needed in both. Problem solved:, put the JC200 and extension above the bb, Zipp bar flies.
Hi, do you have maybe any photos of your bike and cable routing with Zipp handlebar? Since I can't buy anywhere Rival Rapid nor Aerofly I need to find alternative and probably I would go for Zipp.
@@mszymkowski Hi Marcin, routing is the same as an aerofly, holes are quite big and at about the same spot. The bars are a bit thinner than an aerofly (wing shaped).
if you dont have a tarmac or a venge, the di2 box goes into the bar and alot of times we run the cable outside the bar to make it easiuer to run and I think tis the only way but you might be able to get away running it all inside
@@zacharypeattie running the di2 cable under the bar tape used to be the way to do it. Older carbon bars often had blocks in them from the construction process (for example they might be formed in three peices and bonded together). Modern handlebars are almost all open from end to end and running di2 on the exterior is not the preferred method (shimano's pro vibe video covers this). The hole is a holdover and is unnecessary for di2 compatibility. If your carbon fiber component doesn't have a hole where you think it needs one, you are almost certainly wrong.
If you have a bar with no holes, the cable from the frame and to the BR’s all goes external under the tape. The issue is the bar end junction box is internal so you need the hole in the drop to get the canbus to the junction box for control and charging. With the internal junction box at the bar end, the bars need a hole somewhere, either at the BR’s or the drops. For an all internal routed bike, still need holes for the BR’s; for an external bike, like one with an aftershock that cannot be internal from the frame to the bars, then there needs to be a hole at the BR’s or the drops to get the the junction box inside the bars as I don’t think you can bend the cable around the end of the bar as it would break or get cut.
Im running the Pro Vibe on my 2020 Tarmac SL6 with S-Works stem. For sure, cable routing was a pain but mine definitely had the hole for my Di2 cable. Not sure whats going on with the pair you have, Center hole is, as you surmised, is for the Pro stem.
Dude, i like you, you make me laugh, the way you say to "leave me alone" literally have me laughing out loud. Btw i just bought an SL7 frameset in carbon/white. I did want that bowling ball red, but at least the carbon will be lighter.
Prime Primavera carbon is the value king. I've used canyon cockpits and Vision 5D, and these Prime bars feel stiffer and look very aero, and got them for $100 on ebay in 40mm
I’ve been waiting for the aerofly 2 bars for about 6 weeks now in the UK and it doesn’t look like they are coming into stock until mid April at the earliest. What’s going on with Specialized’s supply chain issues here? Will happily sell you a frameset knowing full well the bar that’s designed for the frame can’t be located. Crazy.
honestly I odnt know either I have not seeen any in forever and i dont plan on seeing any for a while I do see that they are shipping more and more bikes with them so maybe they are just trying to give the bikes the aeroflys and thats the hold up on them
I was (sort of) lucky, didn't break my FSA K-wing when I crashed. Gonna put them on my Tarmac (expert) once I am riding again. The k-wing has that flat part that molds into the hoods. Love that
I lov e those kwing they were my first ergo bar I have ever got and I got it from a guy who crashed on his bike and gave them too me, I wil always rmemeber them
It looks like the Aero Fly ll is a rebranded Toseek 3000. They're exactly the same except for the name on the bar, and the Aero Fly is Chinese made, so.. 💡
I have the zipp 42mm aero SL70 handlebar. On the website the weight was stated at 240 g and mine weighed in at 230 g saving me a 100 g which is a win. I like the handlebar and I adjusted to the shorter drops preethy quickly.
You don't need to drill the zipp bars to route di2 😉 I've done 3 sets now on my own bikes. In the drop they leave the bladder in. Just use some wire or a wired coat hanger to get through the bladder and feed the wire from the junction box up into the shifter. 1. Junc to shifter right 2. Shifter to shifter 3. Shifter left down to 4 port Junc box in frame Dont use the Y-splitter either. Can send u a few pics if u need over but u can do it without drilling the bars
I have done that too but then from manufacturer on a couple bars they dont finish the carbon nice so there are like carbon frays inside the drop down that get snagged on the bar
@@GCPerformance18 yeah I've just done some on the newer ones like in your video with the newer decals and was a faff. Why they just dont remove the bags I'll never know. I get zipp is sram but they'd sell more bars reguardless
Just ordered the Pro Vibe Aero for my S-works Aethos. I wanted the Roval Rapide handlebar but the dimensions of that handlebar are strange. To wide for the longer stem length.
@GC Performance - What are your thoughts on the ENVE SES AR Handlebars? The slight flareout? Gimmicky? Stability from the flareouts vs more aero from non-flareouts? TIA!
flareouts are jsut a subjective comfort.... nothing added for aero, hinesight wider bars would give you more stability but again something I dont think is needed and is so minor you or me would not notice.......... now I will say in general that enve bars are amazing products and they performa really well and are considered top tier bars ;) if that is the answer you wanted
That AR bar is phenomenal. been riding it for 6 months now mostly road but definietly took it down a fast flow trail with a lot of brake bumps and its super damp. The flare is great for putting power down in a sprint and on descents. They have a lot of flex compared to the brutally stiff race bar gimmick. But I actually like it. It kina gives that "load up" like you feel in a carbon hockey stick or golf shaft. If that makes sense. I dunno, most comfortable bar I've ridden on a road bike. Shaving my legs would do more justice before I wonder how Aero the flare is.
how timely. I was looking at that pro vibe bar (38cm) to replace the 40cm carbon aero bar I have on my s3. although at this point I’m thinking I should just build a new bike altogether 🤔😒😂
Thank you. I use ZIPP SL70 corban aero bars and can I add any clip on aero tri bars to the same. Any idea which TT bars will fit to the handle bar. I'm struggling to find one
Buy whatever looks good and that you can afford. I friended I always laugh as we're coming across Courtney Campbell I sure am glad I got these aero bars for 300 bucks as I'm going into a 20 mile an hour Head wind😁
Hey GC performance. I have a.pair of zipp sl 70 ergo bar on my cannondale super six evo sram red it a great aero flat bar evo is a 2013. I like to lnow is possibke to run the same.zipp ergo sl 70 bar on my trek madone slr7.(iam also running sram wireless etap axis.i would.luv to run the aero zipp bar
I don’t suppose you know if the Enve SES AR would work with the SL7 and how Tidy the brake hoses would look? My hands aren’t a fan of the areo flat bars, the enve’s look much more comfortable.
I have a question and a request, I'm going to buy steering wheels and I have a choice; specialized aerofy2 or pro vibe aero sl. which one to choose ?? thx
@@GCPerformance18 why i have giant tcr and I want to buy aerofly 2 ? I already know what you were talking about 😜 aerofly2 is huge I am returning and ordering a pro
I have a deal on the s works aereo fly one and the pro vibe super light, what do you recommend for the venge ? Is there any big difference from the areo fly one to the areo fly ii ? Thank you so much
How much does your shop charge for a handlebar swap? Just the service part of doing the swap if a customer brings in the bike and new handlebars. Just curious. I live in Louisiana or I would just call you to get a quote lol.
I have aerofly 1 handle bar and use it with extralite hyperstem … they say it needs to have transversal fibers in order not to break by clamp… anyone any experience with that? Do you know what fibers it has ?
www.specialized.com/us/en/tt-tri-venge-aero-clip-on-bar/p/170232?color=260180-170232&searchText=21019-2015 these wil work for sure!!!!! its the smae thing and there is no issue
Dear GCP Can I run sram group set with the pro vibe aero handlebar and at the same time having integrated cables? Or is it the same how the oil cable run on sram group set as well as the shimano
@@GCPerformance18 what's wrong with the authentic 3t bars, i've never ridden them so can't tell. Is it from a performance view or just a pain for mechanics
I am looking to purchase the zipp SL70 aero handlebars for my Cervelo caledonia-5 with ST31 stem - do you know if these would be compatible? Difficult to find this information online. Many thanks
I mean they make them like that for sure and they are way more safe about it but I mean I have drilled a bunch of bars I am just very careful with a pilot hole and then work my way bigger, and make sure I have a strong dril and a nice bit and it is held steady in a clamp
@@GCPerformance18 The issue is not how you drill it but the fact you're adding a hole that shouldn't be there and this might comprimise the structural integrity.
This bike was really easy to assemble ru-vid.comUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.
I just put new Rapide handlebars on Sagan SL7 today...I have original 42 cm Aerofly 2 if someone interested..it has covers! ROL T Shark on STRAVA..For contact.
Hey, broke my handlebars the other day thanks to sweat/aluminum/corrosion. I wash the bike and bars all the time due to this same thing happening a few years ago but still missed the issue. Any req’s on an “in stock” bar to replace the Specialized hover bars with Di2? I guess I’m going carbon to address my corrosive sweat. On another bike, I coated the bars with spray adhesive to keep the sweat off the aluminum and so for so good but this is extremely dangerous as to thoroughly inspect the bars, one needs to unwrap them multiple times a year. In this case the bars were fine in the spring but didn’t make it through the summer. Looking for req’s on carbon bars for Di2 (with the junction box at the bar plug) and/or how to defeat corrosion caused by the sweating.
Really looking for the finer points, like avoid this bar because the Di2 cable ends don’t fit through the slot - looking for the “why”. Like with Aftershock don’t get a set of bars with only internal cables which route through the stem…
@@GCPerformance18 Was a bad joke about allthe drama videos telling people to only use aluminium after one incident. I'm running the Zipp aero bars. I love them.
