This is one of the most useful reviews/tests I've seen on youtube. You're not defining a use case, you're simply testing and letting everyone reach their own conclusion
@@crownator Most people don't know about silicone spray but actually this is the best option whenever different materials combine together such as rubber or plastic.
Love the test but the automotive and equipment rubber and plastics have much better compunds than the cheap rubber bands… I’m assuming the cheap rubber bands are made of natural rubber? Also would love to see the WD silicone spray!
I don't like the idea of a spray as it is hard to control. Yes I can spray a rag!LOL. A good paste product with silicone (since the new weatherstrip has silicone in it and not fully rubber at all) helps to restore the rubber. Next, I would have gone to the wrecking yard and picked up real rubber used in the cars, then made comparisons. Rubber bands are not the same composition:) At least not as much today. I am going to try the lanolin and see how that works, but on a sample first. Weather strip for my car is very expensive!:)LOL Hey, thank you for helping!
Try armorall if you prefer chemicals. I use 1:1 non-acidic liquid hand soap and glycerin combo in conjunction with 5-10% castor oil for lubricating rubber strands inside my rubber powered airplanes (many others have the same recipe).
I am not a scientist but this seems like a bad test. If the rubber band snapped in place other than where you treated it, then it tells you nothing. I would first treat each rubber band and then stretched them over the pvc pipe. p.s. and ofc add control. This is also a test for this type of rubber and not every other kind. I would also repeat this experiment a few times to see if I would get consistent results.
Testing on an unknown rubber compound gives no practical info. We don’t know what else is made from the same compound as those bands. Probably nothing that is designed to last more than a few days in someone’s hair.
@@TCSC47I wouldn't use it generally but I would *definitely* not use it for that if there's any aluminum in there. KY is mostly 3 just things with a few additives. The bulk of it is water + carrageenan. Carrageenan is a starch from red sea weed that's very commonly used as a thickening agent in food products. Once the water dries out, you just have starch, which isn't much of a lubricant. They cut it with glycerin as well, to give it the overall texture/viscosity/feel/whatever that they want. It's about 25%-33% glycerin. This is the only part with any staying power and you could just buy straight glycerin at any pharmacy if you want. Even then, in my experience, glycerin doesn't make a very good lubricant were you want it to work for very long. The rest of it is a cocktail of things that are in there to prevent bacteria and such from growing in the bottle and to balance the acidity. One of those things is lye. Aluminum really does not like lye. It's got to be pretty damn dilute, but still. I would definitely not be putting it on aluminum.
@@ColonelSandersLite Cheers CSL. Interesting and useful answer. My wife pointed out to me shortly after I posted my question, that the water base of KY would dry out after a shortish while and the lubricating properties would be lost anyway.
Hi. I put a pint of brake fluid in a crankcase with 5.5 quarts new motor oil. Do you think that will do anything bad for 5,000 miles? Brake fluid is mostly polymer based as polyglycol ethers.
The rubber conditioner pops them because it contains swelling agents that are intended to improve the seal. For actual o-rings, that's what it's supposed to do. Motor oil has the same. Ballistol is awesome, it's basically just pure mineral oil and some soap like substances. It's not water resistant, though!
motor oil burns rubber you you put dot 3 ina ol car rubbers from brake last a long if you put 5.1 oil ina oild car lall your rbake ssytm will bleed you gonna destroy all sysutem, you need to change everything.becasue theya re two diferent oils and news cars sue a different rubber, sintectic
Just look at the ingredients. Some of these "silicone" sprays contain "ACETONE" which will destroy rubber. One such product is "PB Blaster Silicone Lubricant", NOT good for rubber door seals!
That's one thing I've noticed when buying Silicone spray lube. One product my say safe and great for rubber and plastic, while another says. do not use, will damage plastic. Pretty sure it's because of the different solvents used.
So it seems gun oil is the safer bet. Which makes sense considering most modern firearms have either polymer furniture or even polymer frames like most handguns so you absolutely need oil that's safe for plastic. Some furniture is rubberized too. Looking for something safe for my airsoft gun the manual says to use silicone based oil. Most of what I have for lube is either automotive or gun lube. I have a couple cans of silicone spray lube but I hate using stuff from a spray can when a drop of oil will do.
Can you use these products on radiator hoses under the hood? Products like WD-40 Silicone Lubricant says it's flammable on the can, so is it safe to use on the hoses? What if it gets too hot under the hood? I'm strictly looking to just prolong the life of the hoses, preventing the heat from drying them out, causing cracks etc, and keeping them looking "fresh", glossy etc.
Thanks I'm looking to condition some thick 8 guage 220 power cords to help protect them on jobsites, extend their usability and prevent them from cracking...was thinking about spraying them with either silicone spray or WD40 then wiping them down...but I wont be using WD40 now...any suggestions for conditioning and preserving 50 ft black rubber 3 wire 220 volt power cords ?
I imagine PB Blaster may be just as harsh or worse than WD-40. A pure silicone would be a good test too. I doubt that the bands are made of silicone but that would deteriorate silicone the same way that petroleum destroys rubber. Also some swimming pool supply stores sell o-ring safe grease that I imagine is probably silicone and no petroleum. If in doubt it is nice to have a test piece of the same material you plan to use it on. Put some on the test piece over night and see if it does anything at all.
You are correct. My pool place has Magic Lube. I use it on my sunroof rubber seals. You need to purchase the correct one though. They have a silicone based and a teflon based product. The silicone based product comes in a white tube with red lettering while the teflon tube has blue lettering
How about using rubber in such a test? Nobody knows what these bands are made of, depending on price, there are different materials (silicone, pvc, tpu).
yes and different lubrificants if you use dot 5.1 ina old car you gonna destroy all the braking system, you will need to chenge evreything. old rubber use dot 3,, new sitnetic rubbers sue 5.1,, dont mix it... Engine machinist here
Sorry bud, but this is ridiculous. The rubber (bands) you're testing is not the same rubber compound use where these products were intended for, such as auto window seals or home windows or doors. Your conclusions are faulty based on extremely bad testing methodology. At the very least, the tested material should be what the tested product is intended for. No one on earth would buy a product to lubricate a rubber band!
The majority of rubber bands are made from natural rubber. Natural rubber has poor chemical resistance, its among the lowest. If the rubber band can withstand the lubricant here youre most likely safe at least as far as the average person is concerned. If you need precision and repeatability, you refer to a rubber chemical resistance chart and sds' like any professional would.
Isoprene aka rubber is rubber. There’s not that much variety as far as actual rubber goes. Most of the stuff on a car is not rubber or even close to it. These products said safe on rubber which is what they were tested on. If they’re not safe for rubber but are actually meant to be used on specific synthetic rubbers like neoprene, urethane, or nitrile then they should do the same thing they’d be required to if they’re were one of the many other chemical products for sale which would be provide a tds and mds.
