Life seemed so much simpler back in the early 90's for a basic install/swap! The flexibility of today's equipment is amazing! And...can be confusing, at first, for old farts like me!
I have a Kenwood Excelon DMX-706S that I run directly into my MiniDSP DSP and then to my amps. Before I had the DSP I would control all of the eq, phasing, time alignment and crossover settings from my head unit and it was cool but the DSP is way more powerful and adjustable plus it offers me the ability to make different presets so I can have a preset for sound quality and one for SPL. I can also add a preset for when someone else is driving and make it so that person cannot cause damage to my system even if they were to crank everything to max level because they are now being controlled by the DSP. The flexibility and features of a DSP cannot be matched!
@kychristell1779heck no! But sometimes my mechanic may need to test drive it so I have a preset that actually disables my sub output and increases the high-pass to my mids and highs so that they are less likely to be damaged by someone turning the volume up too much.
@@jiriza84641 oh man…oh man…I’m a in my 40’s and I’m also a bass head but I’ve never messed with technology like this…a little overwhelming for sure brother.!!
@@SpinningwrencheswithJ you'll still get the frequency from the rca's in and use the amp or DSP with the volume knob. Also, I hear you I like my sound as well, and bass when needed.
I presume you could also then choose a "cheaper" headunit with less audio out options and let the DSP do the work if you were planning to have a DSP. Given headunit prices are sky high or out of stock.
As long as the signal out of the head unit is clean and 20-20k then yes this could potentially allow you to pick something with less pre-outs as you can create what is needed via the DSP. Good observation!
@MaXimus666789 I would still look for a head unit that is of high quality for the main purpose of having the cleanest signal possible. A DSP is a powerful tool that can do a lot but unless it comes with a line driver built in your signal is only going to be as good and as clean as what's coming from the head unit which is why I chose the Kenwood Excelon DMX-706S for my system. It has a clean and clear signal even at maximum volume with no distortion so as long as I set the gains on my amps correctly I never have to worry about blowing any speakers or even listening fatigue which can happen when listening to a "dirty" signal.
I like the audio control DSP, however I don't like having to rely on the computer software necessary for tuning. It would be nice if it had an app with Bluetooth for phone connection to make adjustments as well.
My dm-608 had a short but prior I channeled all 4 amps through the dsp. Def sounded A F-TON better. Now that it's just from the HU it stands out far more than when I first installed it a couple yrs ago
I literally was thinking about this today. THANK YOU!! I appreciate you elaborating this topic especially for me. I’m always “experimenting” & end up having to either go back and fix something or replace something. So again, thanks a lot Mark 🙏🏾
I would bridge mid and bass just to not feel like I'm leaving something out ...so basically id have all 3 bands going to the DSP instead of just the highs and mids, because I feel like im leaving something out
I use the sub out on the HU to the DSP and then use the DSP line out to the sub amp because I want to use the DSP knob as a total volume and the sub amp knob for the sub level.
I say to most people, the price of a top of the line headunit can get yourself a good DSP, or DSP amplifier, and run it in anything you want and any configuration. Plus you don’t have to worry about if you can put your head unit in your McLaren dash. Or, your Civic dash. I use an Audison Bit ten. It’s all I need for my setup. I learned about processing with home theater setups in my kid years, so I’ve always wanted one for a car. Best at the time was the Alpine ERE-G180 EQ for all around sound quality per band adjustment. When DSPs came to cars, it was iPad, or iPod, or iPhone, or blackberry, or Google g1, whatever device you want, to a Bluetooth unit, and to a processor. Much simpler, and easy to move to different vehicles.
First of all, I'm very sorry that certain people make fun of you, in my opinion they are jealous. Lol, I really appreciate your explanation of everything you do, I can tell you really care about your work. I really like audio as well and at first I thought I just wanted it as loud as possible but I soon realized it is a proper balance of high, mid and low frequency.
Happy to have you here! Here on this channel we are all about building people up and helping them on their path. No one is perfect, I'm certainly not and I still have tons more to learn. Learning every day!
Sorry this is supposed to be included in first post, due to unannounced guests lol. Anyway, I'm happy that you really want to be the best at anything you do. In my opinion I believe you would make a wonderful teacher. Thanks for being yourself. Thanks Curtis Stratton
@@CarAudioFabrication I didn't see this till now and I agree no one is perfect but we can strive to be better and you my friend definitely have that positive energy about yourself. I've noticed that " a lot of professional people are quick to call others people out of name". I definitely appreciate you as a professional. Sincerely Curtis Stratton.
To be honest the last system I had I always changed my crossover settings on my subs depending on what type of music I was listening to. Buts that's just me, I listen to all kinds of music
i like to run 3 RCA's front, rear n sub to the processor, keep the setting on the deck flat and tune the DSP, that way when i want to adjust a song like it needs a little more of something or less i can use the setting on the deck cause at the end of the day we all listen to different genres of music and not all music is recorded correctly. so the deck/head unit is to make minor adjustments, that way when the DSP is set you always have the flexibility to still tweak from the head unit individually. Its the same like using a Preamp, example a head unit that have front rear and sub , you got 2 amps one for mids and highs and one for sub , then using 2 preamps makes more sense, front output from head unit to one preamp and sub output from head unit to next preamp, now you have setting for mids and higs alone and with the sub you can adjust for bass alone and as it runs through from the front and read signal the settings for front on the deck is added adjustments to make as with the sub setting on the head unit , maximizing everything, and this can be done in many ways as long as you know what front-rear or sub will be powering, With the processor its easier as long as you got everything dial in and less equipment, with more than one preamp you can always adjust on the fly.
The one thing that bothers me is the more advanced my skills, the more advanced my setup. Yet, I always have the same issues with Alt whine when I've.meticuloussly set everything up. I wish aftermarket units ditched RCA cables, I think they're shit. I'm tired of chasing gremlins and would much rather deal with an optical spdif cable than all the cabling.
I've noticed now some of the Chinese aftermarket head units that are direct replacement have DSP software built into them have you had any experience with this new technology? Love your videos btw. Have had alpine F1 set up previous and alpines processor which required a laptop and RTA for the shop to set up
Do you have a video showing your recommendation for a beginner set up for router router table and what bits to get first? If not could you do one please
Alot of people are gonna go with a DSP in the $100-$150 range that won't have the computer stuff. So there will only be a graphic EQ, possibly with phone access, soooo my question is, on that graphic EQ does the frequencies below 120hz affect the full range speakers or the subwoofer? Does the DSP know to send 100hz-80hz and below to the sub? Now remember, this is for the cheaper DSP'S
Mark, when bought my current car I went to install a new HU and my amp and sub set up from the old car. This is when I found out about the factory amp for the mids. I used the regular output from the head unit to the factory amp. Should I have used the pre-out for the front and rear instead? I did eventually have to go into my sound settings and turn down the gain for the front and rear channels to improve the sound quality. If you need more info just ask. Thanks for vids!
Hi Mark, can you make a video that shows the order of operation from the head unit to the dsp with multiple amps. I'm building a system from scratch and I want to go with 2 sets of highs, 2 sets of mids and 4 subs. Do I need the 10 channel dsp from audio control? That's what I'm looking at.
I have the DM810. I use RCA line out 9 and 10 linked to the left and right on my mono sub amp. Is this OK, or should I just use just one of the mono lines from the DM810 with a "Y" adapter to the JL RD1500/1's left and right? Any pros or cons? Always wondered about that
I don't why but I had all 3 outputs, left and right from behind the headunit going to the every imput channels on my DM608. Then on my output I had all three input sources enabled and highlighted in blue on every output channel.
@@danielabrams555 To have a perfect filter, you have to look forward in time. Only way to do that is to delay the output. And that will affect the phase to the original signal. But I agree there is no perceivable delay.
Thank you mark for all your efforts.. I have a question: How can I implement and wire a center speaker 🔈 for my car which doesn’t has one , what type of speaker to use and how to wire it .. please I need details
When my subwoofer amplifier doesn't have any audio controls I get the signal out of the subwoofer out rca's. When my subwoofer amplifier have audio processing controls or a dsp is available I get the signal out of the rear channels rca's not the subwoofer channels rca's. This is my choice. All of you do how you want it.
I'm a fan of things looking factory and don't like the add on knobs and switches. My preference would be to use all 3 RCA's and use the subwoofer volume control in the HU, tune the DSP for me and nobody else in the car and button up everything else as a set it and forget it install.
This is the thing; I don't like having so many options.. especially when it comes to something as subtle as sound My head unit has a bunch of EQ settings, adjustments and extras. On top of that my amp has gain and some other setting where you pick the optimum range (or whatever) *I DON'T LIKE HAVING SO MANY OPTIONS.. BECAUSE I NEVER FEEL LIKE I HAVE IT 100% RIGHT*
It's not just the options, but the necessity of those options. The DSP is largely unnecessary of you have a high-end deck with built-in signal processing, etc.
Awesome info and channel! So, using connection from the DSP to AMP, we make the frequency settings on DSP side, then do we do anything on Low Pass on the amp side? (I.e. leave it wide open or mirror the setting on DSP or doesn't matter?) Still need to set the gain?
Technically it doesn’t matter… BUT, to be safe yes I personally would match the DSP, if you ever altered something on the DSP by mistake then it would be a backup so that the wrong signal wasn’t sent to the subwoofer. This is more of an issue with mids and highs, but the same principle would still stand
I think you miss the part without the DSP? Stock head unit all speakers except sub out to sub amp please. Some stock hu is good enough for my taste and budget but adding just a 8" to 10" Subs speaker thru sub amp will do just fine for some on real budget
Dang! It's been 20 yrs since I hooked up some sounds to my car! Now I gotta be a software engineer? 😆 bad enough I can't old school connect anything cause I got a Lexus RX350. I just want some extra bass and the front factory screen to play my phones videos!!
@@CarAudioFabrication, My build is very similar. Pioneer DMH-W4660NEX head unit with Sirius HD kit, Metra Dash Kit 95-7628bhg and Maestro ADS-MRR for steering wheel/front & backup camera controls, Custom SlamPanda Raider Nation Bass Knob w/led's, Panda Cub for four DS18 Bullet Tweeters on a JP48 amp, four D4S Pro Audio 6.5 v2’s mids on a JP234, 2 Nightshades v5’s 12in's on a SALT 8, 5.5 qubic feet box by Gately Audio tuned to 32hz, 80ah of Lithium by Underground Power, XS Super Cap under the hood, Dual Volt Meter in dash for Lithium and alternator, 250amp high power Alternator by Power bastards, Big 4 install, SoundSkin Pro Plus Sound Deadening, doors, headliner, floor and hatch,, SMD Copper Fused Distribution Blocks, OFC RCA’s from KnuKonceptz, OFC 4 gauge Sky High Speaker Wire, a whole lot of OFC 0 gauge Sky High Wiring and colored heat shrink wrap. System Tuning will be at -8db. This is my set up going in June 1. I'd like to add an Epicenter. Is it necessary?
I did fiber from my OEM adapter to my DSP (twk88). I loved just having one cord going to the twk, plus crystal clear sound. I joined the front and back in the software, similar to this, so I can have fade and sent my outputs to my amp (RD 900/5). Simple enough. IMO, if you can do fiber from your head unit or OEM adapter to your DSP, do it. It makes the install so much easier. Thoughts CAF?
could yo do a setup on dodge and ram steering wheel controls , 2 wire, jack, restance and rams what? i have not gotten this to work yet in my 2019 ram promaster city i am useing a dmh-1500nex which does not show in settings, the steering wheel control settings. any help is awsome thank you! happy new years.
I'm clear on what the DSP is and how it works but I've never owned one and I'd like to see the connections between the DSP and the computer. Are you putting the settings on a flash drive or directly into the DSP. I would assume you are connected to the DSP so the system can be adjusted to the specific sound in the vehicle.
They are usually connected using USB interfacing. All the settings are changed directly on the DSP from the computer. That's why most generally use a laptop when tuning a car audio system
Really nice content! I usually dont run the back speakers from an amplifier, I have the impression it messes with the music stage of the system. Would you recomend PA them or just leave hooked to the main unit? I usually only drive with one passenger
Is buying a audiocontrol matrix worth the money if you have a head unit with 4v pre outs. And what do the audiocontrol matrix do for that price point. Please help.
Hey Mark, One thing I was wondering is when you make the front rca work as the “sub” preouts aswell what happens if you fade the signal to just the rear like in your example for the kids. Would that also cut off your subwoofer since the signal has now been turned down??
1. what about a clean signal. if you use the nob on the dsp you may be feeding an unclean signal to the bass amp. wouldnt this also make setting gains properly more difficult and potentially leave some performance in the sub amp? 2. if you want to fade from front to back with the 1st setup you will fade out your subs, can you select all 4 inputs for the sub out? 3. since you have all the out's needed, why even mess with a dsp. if the HU has all those outputs it will probably have adequate crossover and tuning capabilities. ?
1) Not every knob is "bad" as other creators have led the community to believe. The knob on the DSP (and even the amp in this video) is a volume attenuator, it doesn't impact the gain setting. You simply set the gains with the volume attenuator knob in its full position 2) There are ways to make the subs link to front and rear signal but personally I feel like losing sub when fading to back is preferred. If you are fading to rear to get away from hearing in the front you will still hear the subs if playing on rear signal so its kind of pointless to have it set up that way. 3) Please watch this video and pay extra attention to misconception #2. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sxVVz13XkPg.html a Head unit is NOT a replacement for a DSP.
Factory head unit sub out to mono amp? Or amplifier line outs into mono amplifier? ... don't have a DSP but have 2 options and I don't know what is best.
Love the video! I had a question, is it fine to configure time alignment and speaker levels on my headunit, and perhaps a little bit of eq too. While doing the bulk of the eq adjustment on the dsp. (My dsp does not support a remote to change presets) I drive with passengers in my vehicle half the time, and I love being able to quickly adjust the listening position (which sets the time alignment and speaker level based on the number of passengers) on my headunit without an app or a computer. I want to have the best possible listening experience in the drivers seat, but quickly change to a very good experience if passengers are in the vehicle. So I’m happy if the dsp is optimized for the drivers seat, and the headunit can be used for quick tuning.
another advantage of running a sub rca from the deck to the dsp is sub LEVEL control straight from the deck. no need for a separate level control if one is right there in the deck. i just did a system with the little brother of the AC dsp used here. with the old school type alpine rotary control, sub control is a press away, no need for another component in the system, i.e. the remote for the dsp (which costs extra).
Depends on how good you want it to sound. A DSP will allow you to tune each speaker individually meaning you can set crossover points, do time alignment, and equalizer settings on each speaker separately. Not to mention you can choose what type of filter to use and the slope of that filter for each speaker. As far as I know there isn't a head unit out that will allow for individual control of each speaker. With that being said you don't have to use a DSP if you like the sound you already have using the settings on your head unit
The main question that the viewer asked was whether or not to use the designated subwoofer outs but yes Toslink could essentially be used in the same way as I describe in the example as it just L&R signal. Unfortunately we just don't see optical out all that often although you can check out my Stinger Heigh10 review that has it and the Grand Cherokee project where we used optical out of the Pac Amp Pro.. Thanks for watching!
have watched this over and over if u used all three f/r/s or just front and sub, would u not put the sub from radio to the mono input on dsp instead of stereo where u have them
My problem is from time to time when I have my hu up to the highest clean volume no clipping my dsp will either stop play sound until I turn off and back on or sometimes it will just make a loud screech sound until I turn it off
DSP is the future of OEM integrations. Radio replacements will continue to decrease as cars get more integrated into the dash board entertainment / control center.
Quick question! For the “Output configuration” for a subwoofer would you select “Mono” or leave it as stereo output? I have the DM608 and have my subwoofer RCA’s going into channels 3/4 stereo of the input section and out of channels 5/6 stereo of the output section.
Just out of curiosity what if you had like 4 sets of speakers front, 4 speakers back including 8" midrange, 6'5" component set in the doors then lets say like a small coaxial in like kickpanel or dash front and same type of a speaker behind the rear passenger area each side, plus a subwoofer in the trunk as in a lot of wires 2 amps front and rear how would you go about connecting those.
Thanks for the video. I had a very difficult time trying to convince a friend on the need for a dsp. He has apparently got a very good head unit that can do 'everything'. It was a task trying to justify the extra cost. Can you pls help out with a video on this.
