Great advice! I never thought about increasing the pressure on high solids clear. Spraying test panels with some euro clear to get ready for a project and I have been having trouble getting it to lay flat and flow out. Regulator @28psi per recommendations. I will be bumping that up and testing again. Sounds like I should order some 4100 and be done with it! Thanks for the video Tommy!
Ugh. I just made a rookie mistake. I setup my compressor at 29psi. Then i sprayed my car with HC1100 and i i had no runs! It seemed like it was really heavy on the orange peel and i was cleaning my gun 🥴 and started cussing at myself! I had my gun set at 10psi!!!! Can i fix this by wet sanding?? 🙏🏼
Yes absolutely! How many.coats? If 3+ you can definitely WetSand 1500-3000 then compound/polish. If only 2 I'd say start with 2000 & 3000 and avoid edges/body lines.
@@thespraysource thank you so much for the fast reply. What i just did wrong has nothing to do with the awesome product and service i get from you guys, just a rookie mistake on my part. Everything got 3 good coats, the hood only had 2 passes though. Thanks for the info. I was praying i didnt have to respray and do everything again haha. 1 more question. How long before i can wet sand and buff it?
The other option you have is wet sand it with 600 re-clean it and then flow coat it which all means is recoat it with more clear. If you want to try wet thing and buffing I would give it 48 hours personally but a lot of people do it after 24 hours.
Did I just hear that correctly? You're spraying at 38 PSI. Isn't that kind of excessive? I mean 30 PSI max usually. At least according to most data sheets. I spray paint for living myself. I'm just curious my DV-1 devilbiss I can spray as low as 18 PSI. At 38 psi that seems like a waste of material.
The dv1 is meant to spray at low psi. Glamour clears and high solids , almost always recommend 35-45psi on the tech sheet. A good example of a very commonly used clear is ppg 2021. To answer your question, no it's not excessive. It helps the thick clears to break up and lay out. It also helps you be able to move much faster around the car. At least in the custom industry ( collision is the opposite), I'd rather waste a little more product in the air but get a near perfect finish off the gun than save a small amount of product that might cost me $10 but save tons of time wetsanding. that said also, the dv1 doesn't like high psi nor does it really like any high solids clears which is why it's almost exclusively used and designed for the collision industry
@@thespraysource Show me a tech sheet that recommends 35-45 on an HVLP or reduced pressure gun, not an old fashion bottom fed gun. (The dv-1 is definitely a new, very low psi gun, so it isn't even typical.) You are correct about turning up the pressure some, but no gun manufacturer tech sheet is going to bust epa rules and recommend a psi that puts out excessive overspray and voc.
Can't post photos here but lookup the clear I said above. Gun manufacturers always do the recommendations based on collision style clears not high solid show quality clears. This video is facts about the clear coat and then my settings that I like to use which is a good starting point for most people. If you've been spraying a long time use what you're comfortable with and spray how you are comfortable with but I've used these clears and these are my recommended settings with the guns that I specifically use certain guns require more PSI. And again I come from the custom industry not collision so I don't care about wasting a little bit more product if I can get a perfect finish off the gun that I only at the denib whereas if I lower my PSI it'll have a little bit more fat look to it and will need more time sanding and buffing. Different strokes for different folks haha I also move SUPER fast compared to people who like using devilbis or iwata guns.
@@thespraysource I'm not doubting that increased pressure atomizes better. Find me an online pdf that recommends those pressures. Just about every gun and every paint has a data sheet online. I know because I read them. I don't do collision work and I use high solid clears, too. Of course you move fast at higher pressure, or else you'd have sheets of clear sliding down the panels. I'm not arguing technique, just documentation. Tamco data sheets: mostly 29psi max, HC2021 27-35 psi. What brand of gun do you use most?
All of the tamco clears have great UV resistance compared to everything on the market. The products with more solids will have slightly better UV resistance but honestly any of the tamko clears will be more than enough for any type of job.
I’ve been using 2104. I can get it to atomize and go on smooth and flat but can’t seem to prevent die back. Happens every time. Tamco blames it on moisture in the lines but they are dry. I use their reducer as well. Suggestions?
You're either recoating too soon or you don't have enough air flow after you spray to evacuate the solvents in the air. I like to keep a fan blowing over the car and out of the spray area for at least 8 hours after spraying. It's a very thick clear with solvents trying to release through all the mils of clear. It takes quite a bit of time for that to happen and if you don't have air flow pushing the solvents out of the room the solvents then lay back down on top of the clear creating a cloudy die back effect.
