Thanks, Chris. Really enjoyed watching an expert put an engine back together. It's been a long time since I've had the pleasure of rebuilding an engine. Thanks.
Hey Chris there’s another RU-vidr by the name Oliver 66 farm boy he’s in Michigan as well also great luck to you it looks to be going along well and great video I found your RU-vid back when you were harvesting wheat and I got hooked to seeing the old Oliver’s work
Great work, Chris. Man, those engines were built to be strong judging by the width of the mains and big-ends! Looking forward to hearing the old girl growl again.
Enjoy your videos, takes me back to my teen years. Had to keep all running stock in running order. The first thing for me, I would put the assembly lube in a long spout bottle. That one seems unhandy! Thanks again and will be waiting for the next part. Have a great day.
Glad to see the ole girl going back together .For those that didn't catch it The ring compressor was on backwards for #6 piston the tabs on the compressor go toward the liner to help keep it from trying to go into the cylinder with the piston thats what caused it to bind.
Great video again, a little grease inside the socket works also where you used paper towel. There's an induction heater that hears gears that's a good job also. Marking is a very important part of the rebuild. Looking forward to the next episode. Great workmanship on show here....... 👍👍 By the way we've been on lock down for over a week now Covid_19
I had a diesel mechanic teacher that was a big gun for AC. He lived in Dyersburg Tn.and I was very impressed by all his know how especially on injection pumps. We rebuilt AC and Deere engines for farmers. But I can truly say you would be a great teacher. Your knowledge on White & Oliver is amazing. Does those sleeves have O rings at the bottom to seal them in like AC put on their's. .
I've never tried a hot plate for gears (always used an oven) but it's definitely better than a rose bud. It's interesting that the cam has 4 journals not 7. I hope things are holding up good for y'all up there. 🙏🤞
Another great video. Nice to see her coming together. Kudos to you, I’d have been cussing a blue streak during some of those less than cooperative moments haha
I've been following along with this project and find it interesting how different companies design philosophies are. I have been into IH, JD and Minneapolis Moline engines and everybody does it a little bit different. I like the red assembly lube myself, but also I like to crank until it builds oil pressure before trying to start. Keep after it, it will be spring eventually. It's all mud here currently and rain 5 out of the next 7 days forecasted.
I've read where they don't have as many people to manually verify some of the questioable stuff the algorithm kicks out, and that is slowing things down. No one has said first yet, so here's your chance! 😂😂😎😎
I did a engine rebuild on my 1940 Allis Chalmers B which I’m still working on. It is the first tractor engine I have rebuilt. I rebuilt a small engine in high school about 12 years ago. If you go to my channel you can see the tractor rebuild I’m doing.
Great video Chris. Watching you makes me feel more confident when I work on my equipment. Is your state in lockdown? Last 24 hours in my province alone over 600 souls lost. Take it seriously Chris.
We're not on lock down, but getting closer all the time. Schools are all closed, restaurants and bars are take out only, the governor just closed all hair salons, barbers, etc. Most businesses are still open, but many have voluntarily closed or have people working from home. I forsee shelter in place coming soon. It's definitely a good time to be a farmer. I work from home , usually by myself, and with schools closed, we don't have to leave the farm for more than groceries. The virus is really picking up steam here in Michigan, going from a few cases a day to a few deaths a day. I see the news reports from Italy and can see it is bad there. Stay safe and healthy!
It's a steam washer, it gets the block hot enough that most of it evaporates right away. I also blow it off with the air gun to get as much water off and out as possible. It helped that it was winter time and the air was dry. A guy could spray it down with WD40 or similar to keep it from rusting.
That is a very nice shop press. This is the first time I've seen solid wrist pins used. Is the injection pump timing the same between the lower and higher compression versions of this engine?
From what I can find, the timing only changed if there wasn't a turbo. The turbo charged military engines were 20 degrees BTDC, which is where White ran it on ag version. I've already got the pump on, set at 20 degrees.
I looked at a 2-155 this weekend that had an extra gallon of oil on the dipstick, and it smelled like fuel. Would the fuel be getting in through the injection pump?
I think your engine stand may be getting a little weak in the knees........That ol Hercules is getting kinda heavy. That is a great name for an engine. I do aerospace assembly work and all of our torque wrenches are now electronic. They are hooked up to a laptop computer that records the torque values.You have all the bolts in sequence in the computer and the program will not let you do one out of sequence. I build engine components to some stupidly tight tolerances. What is funny is even with all the new electronic gadgets they still use lock wire on almost all the fasteners. A simple mechanical way to secure a fastener. I am rebuilding a B model Deere engine and it is a breath of fresh air to do stuff the old way for a change. Why do you have all those nuts stacked on the head studs? Can't wait to see it finished and start up..........
Yeah, once I got all the pistons in, I hooked a chainfall to the front to take some of the weight off the stand. I don't think it would take the full weight of that engine.
Measurements are to confirm everyone did their job right. There's ring end gap, bearing clearances, thrust clearances, list goes on. You can use plastigauge to measure how much gap is between the bearings and the crank. It's a plastic string that you put in between the bearing and crank, torque things down and then take it back apart. The plastic string gets crushed wider the less clearance there is. You compare that to a gauge on the package to see what the gap is. This engine calls for .001 to .004 clearance, but different engines call for different specs, that's another reason why I decided to leave that stuff out. I don't want this video to be mistaken as a how to. A good shop manual is a must for all the specifications of a particular engine.
Yes, they give you all of the important specifications. A lot of them do assume you have/know how to use the tools for checking those specifications and don't go into the detail of how to use the tools to check things out.
I always try to get the manufacturer shop manaul. They typically cost more, but have the correct specs and usually go into more detail. I have never been impressed with I&T manuals, they are very basic.
As I was editing this I thought to myself, "I should have had safety glasses on there." I've been trying to remember to wear the safety gear, but sometimes old habits die hard. Thanks for thinking of me, I'll try to do better in the future.
