Thanks for sharing these techniques, Rob. I have not considered taking foliage to white in 590 /665nm image, so this can take post processing to a different level. It will also potentially solve colorcast in clouds.
Thanks for another great video. In this one I learnt about selecting multiple colours in a LR mask that I can apply to my vanilla photography as well. 👍👍👍
I have GIMP, and I tend to just messing with stuff until I get what I want. I have a D70 that needed the IR chrome filter, and until I dropped it, had a Kolari pocket camera. Your results are amazing. I love your compositions.
Your channel just came up in my feed after looking up a lot of IR photography videos. I have been planning for a while to turn my spare camera (100D) into IR and I cannot be more excited after watching your videos. I already learned so much especially about what filter to choose. I initially wanted to go for a 700nm but now I am thinking about a 590nm. I wasn’t aware that you can do so much in post. So now I don’t feel limited when it comes to choosing a filter! Thank you so much for all this information!
I greatly appreciate these Rob Shea videos and other tutorials, and they certainly help me better understand how to make the most of color manipulation as I get more involved with the IR processing realm. At the same time, it reminds of the main reason why I left Photoshop so long ago. The programs that utilize color wheel pickers to implement changes rather than sliders are so much quicker and especially more precise to get the desired look. This will be especially helpful to me as I explore 590nm coloration in the near future. My processing finisher is Picture Window Pro (though it is Windows only). My raw processor, Capture One, is essentially useless for IR, but LR, Paint Shop Pro or Darktable work just fine for initial raw processing requiring channel swaps to get started. Capture One also can be used effectively for finishing TIF or JPEG files.
Rob, thank you so much for your helpful videos! You're the best in the business. Would you consider doing a white foliage work flow video for Darktable or one of the other free softwares? Thank you for the consideration sir!
Another inspiring video thanks. ! Super useful book as well. Have you tried playing with Luminar Neo ? I’ve been enjoying using it on images from my Sony Nex7 full spectrum conversion.
Rob, I just received my Kolari Vision full spectrum converter camera and am beyond excited. These videos are absolutely stellar and so helpful in understanding how the power of Lightroom and photoshop can really enhance the images that come out of these amazing camera conversions. Well done!! Keep them coming. One challenge I’m having is creating a profile for my camera. I’ve been following all the steps but when the profiles show up in Lightroom or Photoshop they don’t seem to expand the white balance any further than it is in any of the stock profiles (2000-50,000). Am I kissing a step somewhere? Thanks!!
You might try downloading the profiles in the Infrared Profile Pack and using those for your image. 590.red/infrared-profile-pack Infrared light has a color temperature of around 900 Kelvins, below the 2,000 Kelvins supported by LR/PS. An infrared profile, such as one created with the DNG Profile Editor performing a -50 or -100 Temperature shift, will not change the labels of the Temperature slider in LR/CR. The labels will remain 2,000 to 50,000. However, it will change the actual color temperatures that are supported. It's impossible to calculate the exact impact of the color temperature values since the DNG Profile Editor uses arbitrary values, but essentially, it's as if the slider now supports temperatures from 0 to 25,000, which then covers IR light.
@@robshea This is helpful, thanks. I rewatched a couple of your videos and see that doing a dropper pick of a color in an image after applying the profile resets the white balance slider with much more room to work as opposed to all the way down at 2000. I will check out the profiles though. Thanks for all the work you’ve put into this topic/genre!
In darktable, open darkroom. Find the color zones module. Select saturation. Use the picker to select the foliage in your image. Drag down the dot in the panel. Select lightness and drag the dot up slightly.
@@robshea Thanks Rob - Just had a quick play and I think it will do very nicely indeed. Thank you so much for this and all the advice you give. This is the first area in photography that has got me genuinely excited in ages, largely due to all the help and encouragement you give.
Hello Rob, fantastic educational resource which has helped me in abundance towards my BA in Photography & moving image in IR imaging. I downloaded your PS Actions from the adobe creative cloud but as yet they're not showing up in my PS panel. Any ideas why? I have restarted PS & my Mac but still no joy. Also, is your book available at Amazon? Many Thanks.
For the Actions, ensure that you have followed the installation instructions here: blog.robsheaphotography.com/2021/08/07/update-photoshop-actions-color-infrared.html#installation-instructions My book is currently available here: www.infraredbook.com/ I'm currently working on a print version and exploring other distribution methods. Thanks!
Thanks Rob, I have now sorted my problem with loading your actions. I had no joy through the creative cloud so I downloaded them and now it works beautifully. Thanks for all the time and effort you put into helping others with IR imagery.👍
Hi Ron, I was wondering how far I can go without converting my camera? Can I assume all images in this video are from converted camera? I am considering converting my Fujifilm X100v. I purchased a Urth 720nm IR to place on Canon R16mm lens. Sending it back because I cannot achieve bright foliage. I’ve tried, many times and profiles in -100 and -50 temp, with terrible results. I coming to the realization that Black and White is all I can get, but still NOT pleased with results. Hoya filters have been ordered. Am I expecting too much from only using an IR filter.
I have seen many people struggle with the first brand of filter you mentioned. With a quality 720nm filter, such as the Hoya R72, you can get excellent results. The colors will be muted and you will need a longer exposure, but you can take great images. Here are some examples of images with an unconverted camera. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ej-6iz9fuLE.html
@@robshea Yes, that video was the one I was working with. Anxious to start again with the Hoya filters. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. You are appreciated Ken-
Recently purchased your book and can’t seem to find it. I have a record of the transaction but having difficulty locating in on my MacBook pro. Also there isn’t anywhere on your site that indicates any of the downloads i have from you. Also I downloaded Adobe Acrobat Reader and was reading the book just 3 days ago. Please help. Thank you
There should be a download link on your email receipt. If you can't find that, send an email from the same account you ordered from to rob at shealand.com and I will send you a link.
The 760nm high-pass filter transmit only infrared light and block visible light, resulting in a monochrome image. For a blue sky look, you will need a shoot with a high-pass filter ranging from 515 to 720 nm.
Hi, i'm new in this genre of photography. i have a Nikon APS-C DSLR converted camera. But my question is(or where i have a problem) is that i can't have a sharp photo, it's like the focus is not done right. I use the auto focus of the camera but the photos are not sharp, i shoot handheld not on the tripod. How you arrive to nail the focus in infrared photography?
Be sure to use live view with your DSLR. The focus in the optical viewfinder will NOT be accurate. If you have focus peaking, you can use that for manual focus.
@@robshea Thanks for the advice, I use the normal back button focus with single point and a shutter speed of 1/500. I use a Nikon D300 s with one of the sharpest DX lens 16-85 mm f3.5 - 5.6 with a aperture at f8-f11. Using this lens with a Nikon D5100 normal camera, not IR, the lens is very sharp.
@@mihaihorhat1066 It could also be diffraction. I stick to f/5.6 on my crop sensor system, since diffraction has a greater impact in IR at higher f-numbers. Here are the details. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-s54xMINUwVg.html
Hi rob, why is it when i swap the channels, then i try to use the hue and saturation and used the color picker, the blue became cyan and the red became magenta. I used FS fuji xe1 and hoya 720nm filter.
After a channel swap, the colors you see will no longer match the actual colors contained in the raw file. Some tools will reference the original colors. When possible, I will use the selector or picker tool to point to the color I'm trying to manipulate. Then it doesn't matter what that color is labeled as. This is the nature of false color imaging.
You don't need a profile to edit infrared images with ON1. It has enough range in the color temperature settings to get a good white balance. Here is a video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RuDSBYpZqiQ.html
