Everyone has their own style and taste. I would have loved to seen a little more of the blue on the other side, as my home is blues, grays, teals, aqua. She makes it look so easy.
A copper and teal marble would be AMAZING. If you're going to do a design on a vertical surface (like a sink), you'll need to do a design "PRE" epoxy on the substrate so that the design won't run.
I really like the piece you have behind you with the white and gray and brown lines in it for a more linear affect. Can you tell me what colors you used to create this look? thanks.
Curious, from the white level, before the grays, if I wanted to add gold veins, would you do it with spray paint on a stick or gold mixed into epoxy? I would want some sparkle to it. 🌟 I really liked the white pigment and diamond dust all mixed together!! 💎
Gold would look amazing. You could actually do it either way. If you mixed it in the epoxy, the vein would be softer and blend into the finish. If you did spray paint, that would stay more on the surface and be a little more distinct. Either one would look cool I think.
I really like your videos. I am planning to use epoxy for bee hives. I really like this technique to make it look like stone. Like the added UV protection of Art Epoxy.
Hi Rhonda! Is it really critical that you use art coat I have a small window over the sink with the countertop that I am going to finish with white marble or white granite. but I have invested stone coat expoxy . south facing window??
Good question! This is what we share with our students regarding the natural ambering process of epoxy. ALL EPOXY WILL AMBER OVER TIME…period! No matter what any company says, as long as epoxy is made out of petroleum based materials, it will amber. There are variables that you can control that will slow the process and give you years of use. 1. Use an epoxy manufactured out of high quality raw materials. You will get what you pay for. There are many low quality epoxies on the market. Do your research. 2. Use an epoxy that has the maximum amount of UV inhibitors. This will help slow down the ambering process but not stop it completely. UV additives are like little sponges, they absorb UV light. Once the sponges are “full” they no longer work. 3. Don’t pour or expose epoxy to high levels of UV light, especially a white or light colored finish. This includes putting next to windows with direct sun coming in, sun rooms, out doors in the direct sunlight and elements. 4. Avoid long exposures to high heat. This includes using crock pots or other small appliances that generate high heat for several hours at a time. Place these items on a trivet. Stored RV’s that aren’t temperature controlled. 5. Submerging epoxy for long periods of time will also accelerate the ambering process. Ambering and Yellowing are not the same thing. Ambering is a natural process that occurs over time. This also happens to natural stone. Yellowing (especially in spots) is caused by the epoxy reacting with something. These are a few things that can cause yellowing in the epoxy. 1. Using color additives that aren’t specifically formulated to be used with epoxy. 2. Using too much color additive. When tinting epoxy, use just enough to achieve the opacity you are wanting. Rule of thumb, use less than 10% (by volume) of any additive. 3. Cleaning products that include bleach or have high acidity. 4. Not letting your base paint off gas long enough. A general rule is allow the paint to off gas 24-36 hours (does not apply to Stonecoat Epoxy Undercoating, only need to dry for 4 hours) 5. Using a base paint or primer with high amounts of ammonia. 6. Using an oil based paint and not giving adequate time to dry before pouring epoxy. Check our our website www.rk3designs.com for product and workshop information. We provide FREE SHIPPING on all orders over $100 and same day shipping when orders are placed before noon CST. Sign up for our email newsletter for updated product information, promos and the latest updates. Don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any questions. We will be happy to help.
I bought my original stonecoat countertop epoxy before I knew of the advantages of the art coat epoxy. I have since ordered the art coat. I’m doing a white and grey marble. Should I use the original for the color coat and flood coat with the art coat or should I use the art coat for the color coat and use the original for the flood coat?
@@RK3Designs is the art coat prevent it from turning yellowing after few months? - what needs to be done to prevent the white to turn into yellowish faded color?
Hello! I absolutely love the white marble look you did first! We're planning on going over our old countertops with this technique....do you recommend removing the kitchen sink or can we tightly tape around it with plastic to protect it and do the epoxy???
Thank you for watching!!! You can pour around a sink, but if you ever need to remove it, you will damage the countertop. I always suggest removing if possible.
We use 1/2 in. MDF. Any smooth flat board will work. Make sure it’s not to thin or it will warp. We will have our blank sample boards available for sale on our website soon. www.RK3Designs.com
Love your work. Inspiring. Quick question...what would you estimate the cost on a per sq ft basis would be? I'm looking to redo my kitchen counters so in the budgeting process now. Thanks...
The epoxy will be just under $6 per sq ft, any additives (paint, glitter etc.) will add a bit to that but you use so little it is not a major consideration.
Wow. Your white metallic is a lot darker. Almost a Champaign or pearl. I must not have used as high of a ratio in my mix when I tried it on a sample. It didn't look much different than the diamond dust mix for me so I added a touch of the white from my white dyed cup.
Depending on how much of the spray paint you use and how opaque you apply it. If you barely spray in the surface you can easily see the first layer. Great question! 😊😊
Since paint is literally on the surface you risk losing those effects when you scuff it up for the flood coat. How do you avoid losing paint on the top coat?
When you cross hatch the spray paint land allow it to meld and react with the epoxy, it will settle. When you scuff with 220 it won’t harms the finish. However, if you use a paint that wants to just sit on the surface (many metallics will do this) then you’ll not want to scuff. In this case I would apply the flood coat while my color coat was still tacky so you get a chemical bond instead of a mechanical one.
I’ve been confused trying to calculate epoxy quantity. L shaped countertop and sink with flood coat. I’m not even sure how to get exact measurements. I’ve tried finding answers on line and have succeeded in confusing myself more. Hate to bother you with this. But I know I’ll get the correct answer. Thx again. I’ve been confused trying to calculate epoxy quantity. L shaped countertop and sink with flood coat. I’m not even sure how to get exact measurements. I’ve tried finding answers on line and have succeeded in confusing myself more. Hate to bother you with this. But I know I’ll get the correct answer. Thx again. I’m not sure I’m correct, but I believe I have 7.5 sq feet.
basin area 40” x 21” to curve over the seat. From the 40” to the end of countertop is an additional 26” only 8” wide. Back splash across back and on side 3”. I took a photo and marked it up so measurements were easier to understand, but wouldn’t go through.
Used stonecoat epoxy for a marble countertop for a client and in less then a year it yellowed UNDER a placemat that they keep on the counter - very disappointed and have to recover the countertop at my own expense. I would not recommend doing a light colored countertop for this reason
She used the Art Coat here because of less chance of yellowing due to UV, but my understanding is that it is less likely to yellow from other causes also. I also wonder if the top coats that are available would help resist yellowing.
