One of the issues you have with the Swann blade is not using the proper Swann handle, which slots into the hole in the blade and gives it more strength.
@@cultofpaint second what he said. The scalpels are great and I use them also. But really need to use the proper handle. I actually prefer them also over the standard round xacto handles
That giant polearm looks nasty. I can only imagine that a White Scar swinging that around with all the speed and skill they have. A graceful and long arm of concussive death. Looking forward to seeing this one with paint on him. The stuff you did for the Warhammer Community site looked stunning.
Would love to see how you put your Stormseer together! I want to have one for my White Scars but not sure what to do, would be happy to see some inspiration...
@@cultofpaint Sure, or any Heresy army really! I’m personally going with World Eaters so I wouldn’t mind that if it’s planned by one of you guys! Maybe also how you approach building a force in the first place? Picking units, what do you paint first etc.! :)
@@cultofpaint I intend to copy your work on the launch box almost exactly as a small starter force of Scars, so I'm loving that you've showed where you got that power maul head from. Love the conversion, great work as always.
Thanks for this lovely conversion. It helps a lot to add more flare to Raven Guard that I am working on. Just finished the MK IV techmarine. Still have his brother in MK III to finish.
Swann-Mortison scales are really good when it comes to slicing, but not chopping. I tend to cut things off using flat clippers leaving a bit excess, and then go in with the scalpel to clean up the piece to where I want it.
They’re so much cheaper than the x actos I thought I’d give them a try. I find they blunt much sooner too. Plenty of people dig them, just not for me I don’t think.
I like how just a few easy changes make a big difference on this model. And doing a shoulderpad/helmet/weapon swap is simple enough for most people to handle.
awesome work, cant wait to see it painted! im planning a fun project of painting some stormcast in space marine color schemes, ill definitely be referencing that vid for my "white scars stormcast" . thanks for all your guys hard work and inspiration!
And subbed... this is an awesome conversion, love the weapon, cannot wait for the painting tutorial. White scars are awesome but white is such an unforgiving primary color for a model that I've always been intimidated by it. Maybe I'll bite the bullet and make a white scars army for the heresy. (Will need some tetsubos though)
I can see why your blade is snapping: There is a huge hole in the middle, it makes the blade fragile, If you put pressure on the blade one of the small metal bits around the hole will snap and as soon as one is gone, the other will follow.
I rather like it too, it's a very cool model and it's really nice to see another chapter other than Ultrasmurfs, Space Woofs or the blood sucker bois! The White Scars take the field, can't wait to see him painted up!!
Hi Awesome vid as always , In regards to the swan morton blades . Well the swan morton handle adds a lot of strengh to the blades when used together . Hence using the swan morton blades in another handle will cause the problems you have experienced . As i have made the same mistake in the past .
Yours and Pete the Wargamer's praetors show how a little tweaking can do a whole lot to bring in the feel of your chosen legion. The tetsubo/kanabo is genius! I can't decide between WS or RG in HH 2.0, trying out schemes (feeling your Ulthwe scheme for RG) but waiting for your WS scheme for even more indecisiveness.
@@cultofpaint it's not been so easy with all the monopose stuff. I like the direction they have gone with these new kits. they seem much more versatile than Primaris have been.
Thie Praetor in general only suits the white scars to be honest, not particularly keen on either included in the new set let alone MKVI, but this guy really does suit the white scars!
On the Swan Morton blades, I've been using them for years now, and I've never had one break, all you have to remember is that they're designed as surgical blades, so they're not meant for cutting hard stuff like plastic, what might be happening is that you're cutting in a single pushing movement, forcing the blade through the plastic, try using multiple passes, more like you're scribing in a panel line, since they are a tad thinner than normal hobby blades they're not as strong, so brute force cutting is not the way to go, they do have a keener edge though, so thinner stuff they will breeze through and the 'scribing' technique will work just fine, especially if you have the proper handle as well, that's going to make a big difference because the proper handle will not let the blades flex as much, handles can be picked up pretty cheap too, I personally have one with a chunkier plastic grip because I have big hands so it's feels more comfortable to use
I was thinking exactly this while watching those cuts. The Swann Morton blades are a lot thinner than the Xacto blades and cant take the same stresses if being used to 'push' through plastic like this. Using the 'scribing' technique Simon describes above I've used these blades to make some extremely delicate parts separation for conversion where I needed both bits to be more or less intact after.
My one gripe with this model is the pistol brace on his belt. I really wish that was a bit you could glue on if you wanted it. It looks so out of place to me I would much rather just have the chainmail which is already there
Scalpel blades - nah, it is not just you, the standard blades are more flimsy than a XActo blade. There are some stronger blades - I use the #25a a lot. But you'll need a wide handle. Or a #4 scalpel handle for which I think there are other stronger blades too. HTH.
Scalpel blades aren't really made for hard items like plastic, they're incredibly sharp and have high plasticity but they're meant for soft tissues, not things like plastics (unlike x-acto blades, which are designed for hard tissues like plastic.)
I’ve been using scalpel blades for many decades and I think the issue you may be having here is not using them with the scalpel handle. The gap in the middle is where they slot into the handle and it significantly strengthens the blade. Scalpel blades aren’t designed to be used without their handles, but I also take Niko’s point too they are made for cutting human tissue and as such designed with that in mind. However I cannot use a regular hobby knife because I am so used to a scalpel, so personal preferences really matter when using such blades items.
@@Vengeance161 For me it's that I physically can't use scalpel blades on plastic, it just feels alien because every context I've used them in has been in a medical one and it just feels ...wrong. They've snapped on me when trying to use them on plastic because fundamentally my hand isn't used to using a scalpel on hard plastics but on soft tissues lol.
@@MrNikosogiatros that’s strange because that’s the context I’ve used them as well and I found them very familiar and it’s that familiarity that keeps me using them. I have had them snap once or twice but usually that means I’ve used that one way too long and it was due for a change anyway
i think you want to pop those blades on a proper scalpel handle because then the pressure is transferred to the base of the actual wide blade bit where it's nice and strong (just my tuppence, definitely not an expert)
Really do not like the new praetors in the set. If you want a decent knife use a utility knife, just as clean a cut but you have more control and stronger blades.
One of the issues you have with the Swann blade is not using the proper Swann handle, which slots into the hole in the blade and gives it more strength.
