Truly and amazing effort! Also, holy cow, what an aesthetic line! I’m not sure I’ll ever be to the point of climbing something like that, but I’d love to visit the Gunks someday.
I aided Twilight Zone in the winter, like 30 years ago. There was one shitty fixed pin on the traverse. Looks like a lot more gear now. I might have to go back and do it again :)
@EverythingViral Well...it's really some kind of mutant hybrid....you're still working with the pro the rock "allows" you to use, rather than popping in bolts at convenient intervals.
I've never been a big proponent of trying to shake out on overhangs, it's simply my opinion that it is a waste of energy. Unless I can take ALL of my weight off of my feet, I just blast through the moves as fast as possible, almost running up the route. Just ask yourself if the position you're trying to rest in, is a position that costs you energy. Even though it's easier, if you were to hypothetically start off in said position, and stayed there indefinitely, wouldn't you eventually fall off? If the answer is yes, then you are just burning more energy, better to just blast through the beta. It's just what has worked for me. I've noticed a lot of people like to climb really slowly, and I don't see the value in it. I mean, maybe it looks cool, but it only stands to reason that the less time you are on each hold, the less energy you expend. There is a great video of Ondra that has a little message at the beginning of the video telling you that the footage you are about to see has not been sped up. He does what I advocate; he flied through the route until he can find a kneebar, he doesn't climb in slow motion so he can look strong. Climb fast.
All elite climbers shake out on steep jugs, Ondra included. They can indeed rest there effectively indefinitely, probably for over an hour. You cannot jog for 4 hours in a row but a jog still might be good recovery after a short sprint. Ondra also has quotes about climbing efficiently, according to whatever "efficient" means for that particular climber. For lots of people, slow and static is efficient (using optimal energy moving between holds at the cost of a bit more energy staying on the holds).
Lol spotted the gumby that thinks he knows more about climbing hard than someone that's climbing a fucking 14a. Can't escape from these guys, they just see a girl climber and have some sort of superiority complex even though the girl is clearly way outta their league
