Good basic advice on Scandis in particular and bevels in general. I have an abundance of flat, hollow, and even some convex grinds but no Scandi grind knives.
Could be boiled down to 3 differences/variables: 1) Edge bevel(s) angle. Determines where the saber line is on blades width/height, and how blade wedges/split's, and angle of attack of blade (direction of force relative to surface being cut). 2) Spine thickness. Does not really change cutting performance other than fluidity related to mass (thicker/heavier blades having more fluidity). 3) Symmetric versus asymmetric bevels L/R and/or ricasso/belly/tip. Comments exclude variables like secondary bevels, scandi-vex, etc. (grinds that are not single bevel per side should be considered a different category). Interesting to see consistency of thought/perspective then to now in your work. One of the few makers to give us asymmetric primary grinds ;-) THX - Regards,
Say Heah William. I bought my Bokor Black Vox Rold before I met you. The Sheath came out dangerously loose and one morning as I picked the knife off the chair in my room to put it back with my other knives, it flew out and hurt me badley, right into my bare foot. So I put a NyLon Belt Loop on the sheath with a handle strap. But the strap was a little too loose because of the type of handle. I was going to stich it tighter, But instead I put my Mora Classic #1 on it creating a nice piggyback. Now I have to good wood working knives in a piggyback. They say D2 chips easy, But I don't process wood with mine, I use a axe and saw, But the thin apex on the Flat Grind makes for a good slicer. The Mora Classic #1 is a good carver, The point is, I find even with wood working knives, Two is better than One. ,, .
I love My Moras. One of them I chipped the edge by making fatwood shavings. Another by sharpening a stick. Putting a secondary bevel on them fixed the problem. You certainly know what you're talking about.
Marlin883 Thanks, I use a secondary bevel on my scandi's as well. You are right it does help. How I sharpen a scandi. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-np52qnJS1EQ.html
Excellent information William! Understanding grinds and their strengths and potential weaknesses can be confusing. You have done an excellent job on your channel explaining the differences. Your work is most appreciated!
Hard to question a Superb "knife maker" on grinds and their pros and cons. Very well put together video William. Happy for the upload. Another GREAT installment of the "Whittle Talk"....well done
Well received bud. You are another "unfound gem" imho. You need a larger audience for sure.....wealth of knowledge and skill. And I just love your whittle talks haha
Such an art to achieving balance between grind height and sturdiness! And I totally agree re: "it's your knife, it's your choice." But to me, it is in the axe (or khukuri or other impact/chopper/devastator tool) where sturdiness matters more- and not QUITE as much in the belt knife. Although the thought process always evolves, I'm (at this moment!) perhaps more "Nessmukian" in my approach to the belt fixie. I like me a thin keen edge- I like a decently high grind to achieve it. I don't want to plough through the work so I like those shoulders to be well away from the apex of the cutting edge. But I bet my high Scandinavians spend more time on the stone because of it! Thanks for the vid!
I was always under the impression that "Scandi" grinds were preferred by Nordic/Scandi fishermen for processing a large number of fish as well as Nordic larger game hunting knives. Although I do own a Mora Robust HQ in carbon, it is my secondary blade.
***** Most of the larger hunting knives, larger than 4", that I have are actually convex including two customs and a large leuku (spelling?). A scandi can be used as butcher knife. In fact I field dress a pig with the one I made and it did fine. I would just stay away from bone with most of the scandi grinds. Appreciate the view and comment.
I like to say that you can get any two knives equally *sharp*, but how *keen* you can get them depends on the angle at the very edge. When you do things like shaving the thickness down on white birch bark to create bark paper, you need a keen edge - just sharp won't do it.
also northern parts of scandinavia the colder it gets the different types of tools are used. the sammi people often used oosik walrus bone for handles and often bone sheaths
William Collins We're on for tomorrow, Wednesday!!! Did I write Tuesday? It's Wednesday 8:00 pm EST. Hope you can be there. Sorry if there was a misssunderstanding on this. Cheers, Marc
MrZleesbec Scandi is a straight bevel like a "V" to the cutting edge. A saber is a V cut but with a secondary bevel for the cutting edge. Hope that explains it. Appreciate the view and comment.
different regions of scandinavia have different blade styles and grinds Norway ,Sweden and Finland have different ideas of what a bush blade should be like
Say Heah William just when I think I understand things, Blip, Blap, Blam you throw a curve, I got a great price on what think is a very quality knife, I understand when you talk about aHigh Scandi being weaker at the apex so I listened to expect it to chip more. But understanding it like I thought I do, I had the blade thickness at 3/16" thick, That left a little meat and maybe it's just that I can't see any chips with the naked eye, But it seems to me it's very sharp and working wood with it is like butter. What should I be aware of with my blade, I knew if I went with a shallow Scandi I couldn't get a sharp angle at the edge, so I had the blade made thicker, It seems to work great, What say you. Thanx in advance.
you will have more of a pinch point at the primary grind apex due to the thickness of the blade. I think the angle of the scandi is a key as well as type of steel and proper temper for edge stability. Thickness plays a very little part in that. I like a 11-12 degree scandi, that grind angle seams to hold up well in my experience with proper heat treat.
you will have more of a pinch point at the primary grind apex due to the thickness of the blade. I think the angle of the scandi is a key as well as type of steel and proper temper for edge stability. Thickness plays a very little part in that. I like a 11-12 degree scandi, that grind angle seams to hold up well in my experience with proper heat treat.
you will have more of a pinch point at the primary grind apex due to the thickness of the blade. I think the angle of the scandi is a key as well as type of steel and proper temper for edge stability. Thickness plays a very little part in that. I like a 11-12 degree scandi, that grind angle seams to hold up well in my experience with proper heat treat.
Hi William Mark here, just wanted to say that your knives are beautyfull, i could never afford one but i would like to ask you a question, what is the best type of blade to use with just a pull thru sharpener, could you help me out with this one, Thanks in advance
I really enjoyed this talk buddy... I wanted a wood bear awhile back wish I wlda got one in o1 I really like that knife I watchec the demo a bunch of times well made as well. You lucky dog you lol but I do have all the same moras as you and I absolutely love them!!!! They are making the 510 again and using the same blade as the 511 and the older 511's have the high grind but mine has a very low grind and I just love that knife. My Kellam is a very high grind it was higher at the tip on one side so Ive been trying so hard to even out the grind at the tip buf it's ok right now but not perfect and it bums me out but owell lol I just carved alil with it and it is very sharp I hope it holds up.
I’ve learned to make very sharp convex edges by water stones or sandpapers out of those scandis. If you have any opinion on this modification I wold love to listen or to read you.
Daryoosh Fatemi it is a very popular way to strengthen a weak scandi edge. I personally never cared for a convexed edge but that is a personal choice. A convexed scandi edge does still have the wedging properties of a scandi with a stronger edge. I personally prefer my Woodsman grind or multigrind. There are playlist on my channel home page of these grinds.
Daryoosh Fatemi very welcome. Reason I don’t use a convexed edge is to sharpen required special equipment like sandpaper or a strop. You can sharpen a convex by rocking a stone, another video on my channel, but it does require practice. Another reason I’d convex edges are usually more polished than I like. I prefer a coarser edge. Watch my “what is sharp video” for more info.
William Collins wowww thanks man. You are great in every sense and Heart 🙏🏾✨ I will watch all your videos very carefully, with joy and pleasure. You are great. Thank you
P701 Preparedness & Outdoors I have a friend who re-profiles all of his scandi to what he calls a scandivex. I give mine a secondary micro bevel to give the edge more strength. This is how I sharpen a scandi. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-np52qnJS1EQ.html
