Who needs functioning reverb anyways? | 1968 Fender Super Reverb Repair pt.2 

If a reverb tank in an amplifier is found to not have a piece of cardboard or masonite underneath it, I suggest adding one so that when you bag the tank the bag doesn't wrinkle up underneath the tank and contact the underside of the transducers, impeding their isolation and mechanically short-circuiting their suspension (the transducers are the lowest hanging fruit here, and are mounted to a spring-isolated subchassis in order to provide resistance against feedback). Sometimes the isolation springs have stretched a little bit and the entire subchassis, with it's transducers, might be hanging slightly lower than the bottom lip of the reverb tank; use 2 layers of cardboard as a bottom, with the uppermost cardboard layer having a cut out directly below the transducers so that they still "float" without bottoming out. It may be tempting to move the short isolating springs to the other unused holes in the shell of the tank, which are further apart, in order to increase their tension and lift the subchassis up a little higher, but I dont know if this would affect the resonant frequency of the tank and/or whether it would lessen the feedback isolation. I'd love to hear from anyone who has experience with this sort of thing.

Yoooo! Thatnks for the shoutout, cuz. I owe you an ale.

Nice clean work! One thing I noticed... The black, hot wire from the power cord should be going to the gold screw and the white neutral should be going to the silver screw on the courtesy outlet. Even though the outlet isn't grounded, it does have polarity based on the size of the input slot.

Your bench looks like it was built from old-growth pine flooring pulled from a 1920's hardware store. At some point you may have to resist the temptation to build an amp cabinet with it!😉

Nice work brother!

Just have to say Man you pay a lot of a mind to everything, Well Done 🙂

When soldering, I use Silly Putty to hold wires in place.

I had a ‘66 Super Reverb and the Reverb was flat thin and lacking. I had a ‘79 Princeton Reverb that had the most luscious fat wonderful Reverb one could ask for.

Dude… batting 1000 on chassis grounds. 😘👌

Those reverb transducer usually can't be fixed. That brass pin is connected to a very thin wire if I recall. When it's pulled out, that's it. The MOD short decay tank is pretty dang good to my ears. 4AB1C1B is the part number from Antique Electronics Supply.

I don't know if they still sell it, but the plastic tack they sold to hold up posters would work for holding wires in place. No 1970's dorm room would be complete without plastic tack holding up your Farrah Faucet poster (or Andy Gibbs, lol). Check your office supply store. Edit: that Accutronics Reverb tank is likely original, although both of my 1969 amps have a Gibbs 64063 tank. If you do need to replace the tank, MOD sells a good replacement. The proper tank for any vintage Fender amp is 4AB3C1B. You can find a table to see what each letter or number represents, on Stew-Mac or Ted Weber's websites.

I sometimes burn my wires just to make a new wire sound old only cause I suck at soldering LOL

It might have been instructive to set the wipers on both the original potentiometer and the replacement pot to their mechanical midpoint and then measure them from one side to the wiper and then the other side to the wiper to see if the taper of the two pots is similar or not. Newbies to this stuff may find it informative for learning the conceptual difference between linear and logarithmic pots, and how audio tapers may vary.

So what happened with the "original" volume pot, you put it back in. Was it reading odd still or was that just because it was in the circuit? I

Is the ground supposed to be longer than the hot, neutral on the three prong wall cable?

If it was me personally, I wouldn't leave the death cap in place for "looks", I would remove it entirely; and although normally I'd give old parts back to the customer, I think I would throw that capacitor in the garbage. Considering that Ajax blue molded caps are "unobtainium", somebody might be tempted to use that cap in another amp repair or build, but it was under-rated and inadequate for the job, and has likely been severely stressed by AC wall voltage, therefore probably leaky (electrically) and not trustworthy. AC and DC ratings of capacitors are not directly comparable; modern "safety capacitors" are spec'd at 1000 volts and specifically designed to be self-healing and/or to fail "open", not shorted, in cases of an overload; but Fender used an ordinary 400 Volt DC rated capacitor as the death cap.

I would think when ever we change old stuff and then add new stuff they are not going to play well with one another...

Got to 40 minutes: broken reverb tanks usually stay that way, there's no reliable way to repair the transducers. The new MODs are way better than the present Accutronics.

Blue tac is that plastic putty your mom would make you use to stick posters to your wall instead of tape.