Why Crimp & Seal Butt Connectors FAIL!

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In this video I bring you along to share with you the reason that I see crimp and seal butt connectors fail, especially here in the salt belt. As many of you know I really like using these connectors and I think and have found over time they do work really well. HOWEVER, if you crimp them wrong, they will 100% fail. Pay attention to the portion of your crimping tool that you are using, and you won't have an issue.
-Enjoy!
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.

Опубликовано:

30 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 805

@LouinVB 4 месяца назад

I worked avionics for over 45 years before retiring. The avionics grade method was to use uninsulated butt end crimps with a separate piece of heat shrink such as the TE Connectivity D-436-37 Blue Environmental Butt Splice heat shrink. Using uninsulated crimps has two advantages. Firstly, it allows you to see the condition of the mechanical crimp prior to heat shrinking. Also, it eliminates the risk of damage to the heat shrink when crimping. It's a better method all around.

@michaelkrenzer3296 4 месяца назад

It does have ONE limitation...you gotta have space for the separate heat shrink. I have seen a number of Eric O's repairs where that would be hard (rarely impossible) to come by.

@davidpotter7484 4 месяца назад

I prefer that way, it looks cleaner. I personally do it both ways, but i wont fall out of the sky and die.

@KAMNC 4 месяца назад

That's how Wrenching with Kenny does it.

@Jacksonkellyfreak 4 месяца назад

I always used that method as well, and was taught that in A&P school, but now airlines are getting more and more approval to use these with the caviat of calibrating the crimp tools a little more frequently

@simpleman5238 4 месяца назад

I solder all my connections then heat shrink it.

@JenkinsLocks 5 месяцев назад

Everything is junk if you don't use it correctly. Always appreciate your common sense approach.

@jamescaron6465 4 месяца назад

100%

@RobertL78 4 месяца назад

Every machine is a smoke machine if you operate it incorrectly enough.

@weldingjunkie 4 месяца назад

@@RobertL78I don’t get it

@jormalonnberg1578 4 месяца назад

@@weldingjunkie Short your weldingmachine, by stick rod and not taking it of, or in mig weld short nozzle , and let it be there, and you find out. And sorry if my writing is defeckt and incorrect, because english is my third language, and also not so much used in written mode.

@weldingjunkie 4 месяца назад

@@jormalonnberg1578 that’s ok that’s why I asked. I get what you mean now. If you don’t take care of stuff def ends up having issues. I thought he meant making a smoke machine lol

@scubasteve06 4 месяца назад

The ratcheting crimp tool is 100% worth the investment, easy on the hands and you get the correct amount of squeeze every time.

@billynomates920 4 месяца назад

same as the knippex strippers. i mean i do fine with the basic tool or even a box knife and pliers but if you are doing a hundred a day instead of one or two the ratchet tools are like crack. once you try them, you ain't going back.

@302vettelife2 4 месяца назад

Agreed and to Erics point, there is a reason they sell ones for insulated and non insulated connectors. Unfortunately, you either have to get two tools or the tool with the interchangeable dies.

@SirHeadly84 4 месяца назад

I bought some racheting ones and I hate them. It's a dual jaw and should do the job. But it doesn't. Usually only gets one wire and then the crimp is trash😂.

@rbhe357 4 месяца назад

I still prefer the Snapons, or in my case, the same thing for half price Carlyle. Especially when standing on your head trying to crimp something that's buried under a dash or in a door panel. Having the crimpers up front on narrow pliers is super useful. Just know what you're doing.

@scotts4125 4 месяца назад

I don't see a die for smaller gauge white connector. I looked on their site and the kit doesn't seem to have one. I have one of these not sure of the brand but never used it. I have all the dies and bought an extra one for the 90* flag connectors. You see those on 24v HVAC applications. I haven't used butt connectors in years. I'm a solder and heat shrink guy. Going to order some of these. If anyone finds a die for the smaller gauge please point me to it. Most of these tool less interchangeable crimpers can use the same 1 of 2 die styles.

@ghodgeco 4 месяца назад

And if you wanna make your life even easier, put the connector in your pliers FIRST, grip lightly, insert wire and squeeze. It's a lot less fumbling around.

@chipsawdust5816 3 месяца назад

Also give the wire a little twist to make sure all the strands get inside the connector.

@nickvogel7934 4 месяца назад

Every car audio "installer" needs to watch this.

@volvo09 4 месяца назад

Oh God. Nothing like pulling a radio out and seeing a massive was of 20 of those tulip / "princess dress" style crimp connectors, and those blue squeeze style instant wire taps.

@OtisFlint 4 месяца назад

And every company that builds trailers. Every trailer I've bought here in the rust belt is with the t-taps and open connections. It lasts a year before you have to go through it and make proper connections.

@volvo09 4 месяца назад

@@OtisFlint yes, trailers are terrible! Even from the factory.

@billynomates920 4 месяца назад

maybe not exo contralto 😄

@chuckmiller5763 4 месяца назад

I went to Rockford Tech. 1991 and were taught how to connect wires, there are no solder connections on vehicles from the factory, Were were never allowed to use scotch locks. Sometimes an equipment manufacturer recommended soldering and we would follow their recommendations.

@comporangegt 4 месяца назад

The way we were taught at Ford training is the way you described in the video. We would use the bare barrel connectors and use the ratcheting crimpers from OTC. Then we would slide the heat shrink over the splice. The trainers at Ford said that this is the best way to go and if you ever get any pigtails from Ford, they send it with the barrels and heat shrink.

@bigclivedotcom 4 месяца назад

Ratchet crimper all the way here. I find it perplexing when people just mash crimps with some random tool.

@PhillipBailey 5 месяцев назад

Ive been using the shrinkable but connections for years and i agree its all about the crimp. Ive seen many fail due to piercing the insulation during the crimp. On most current situations i find the red are too big. Pico makes a smaller clear one but its quite delicate. Ive switched to seamless uninsulated but sleeves and heat shrink for more critical circuits. They are also less bulky. Good video!

@scubasteve06 4 месяца назад

I agree on the red splices being too big in a lot of cases. Have you found any ratcheting crimpers that are specifically designed for the smaller clear butt splices?

@major__kong 4 месяца назад

If you have length to spare, strip double or triple the length and fold the wire over once or twice to bulk it up for crimping.

@PhillipBailey 4 месяца назад

@scubasteve06 no I haven't and as I said they are pretty easily damaged during crimping. I've started using uninsulated splices with heat shrink.

@PhillipBailey 4 месяца назад

@major__kong yes good idea.

@upptowne 4 месяца назад

This is a good how-to. As an older self taught hot rodder, my test was, "pull on it" if it did not come apart it was good to go. Thanks again.

@WatchWesWork 4 месяца назад

I hope the trailer builders don't watch this. I'll have to find another way to send my kids to college... I've also noticed a lot of these heat shrink butt connectors just disintegrate when exposed to UV (sun) light. Uninsulated connectors and adhesive lined shrink tube is not as handy, but it makes a heck of a good connection.

@donniev8181 5 месяцев назад

Experience plays a factor in all of this as well. I used to do commercial electrical work, and you can physically gauge how hard you need to crimp something in order to not destroy the connection. However, youtube masters don't like talking about real-world experience. Thanks Eric, will definitely be buying some to add to my toolbox. Which color do you use the most for vehicles?

@SouthMainAuto 5 месяцев назад

Red and blue 👍🏼

@donniev8181 5 месяцев назад

@SouthMainAuto thanks! I recently purchased a brand new Toyota, so hopefully, I will not have to work on my own car for 6 or 7 years, which is weird to think about lol.

@LouJustlou 4 месяца назад

Thanks for crimp class and allowing me to bask in the glow of the internet on fire this morning. 😊 Going to be 96 here today....not blaming you though. 😊

@freetolook3727 4 месяца назад

So, you're saying that it's our fault that crimp & seal butt connectors fail? You're probably right! 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

@ronaldclark1178 4 месяца назад

I really like the bare metal barrel crimps with marine grade heat shrink. They seem to work better for me. Thanks for the video because it's always nice to know how to do something correctly the first time!

@jenniferwhitewolf3784 4 месяца назад

I agree... separately applied sealing heat-shrink over a proper crimp or soldered connection.

@dougr.6734 4 месяца назад

Eric O ............. Can you do a video on how you connect three wires? All I know about is the splice style with the spade and clasp. Thanks in advance.

@85jmccoy 4 месяца назад

And all the folks that swear by soldering only.....the connection is only as good as the solder.....and g.m. actually instructs you to cut a connector out and but connect the wired back together....for an airbag light.....

@williamkowsky4419 4 месяца назад

Just bought a pair of those snapon crimper and I still can't sit down

@wesoblander3648 4 месяца назад

You'll be standing up working to pay for them for a bit :)

@user-ui6ve9vr1t 4 месяца назад

Great video Eric O! What do you think about the "crimp and seal". that have a small amount of solder inside?

@daniel_wilkinson 4 месяца назад

Butt connector failure also extends to not stripping the insulation off the wire before crimping. Ask me how I know.

@yarpos 4 месяца назад

the issue with crimpers is can you get the crimper into the work location. That would lead me to the snap on style by default

@jochenstacker7448 4 месяца назад

I recently put a rearview camera, four new speakers and central locking in my car. If I didn't have a butt-load of butt connectors and crimper, I'd still be soldering wires. And that stripping tool is the absolute dog's bollocks. I could not live without it. I will never strip wires with a knife, my teeth or side cutters ever again.

@henrybucki7813 4 месяца назад

try telling rainman repairs almost a year ago noticed he was doing that also. never saw him correct the way he was doing it. i learned this maybe 35 years ago i did a/c refrigeration repair had a electrician correct me.

@sfbfriend 4 месяца назад

Here's my 2C, We used Butt connectors like that for years in aircraft harness's, we didn't crimp at all! But you were required to strip each end and tin the lead on both ends then clean off any flux residue, line up both ends inside the splice so the wires are on top of each other, then shrink with a heat gun that had an adapter on the nozzle, heat the piece till the solder flow's and the ends are sealed. This was an inspected piece conforming to the Weapon Spec, which I don't remember the number now, haven't done those in many moons. That is how, in manufacturing a harness we HAD to do it. Never had a failure that I am aware of! You do you, it works great.

@michaelkrenzer3296 4 месяца назад

"We used Butt connectors like that" No, you did not. Those are not crimp and seal connectors. If you did the attachment as you described with crimp and seal it would fail. Solder and seal connectors are a whole different animal. The high spec ones are super convenient and nice to use, but near impossible these days to find . The retail ones are still convenient but few (so far) in my experience hold up in environments where temps are consistently over 130f.

@davidpotter7484 4 месяца назад

@@michaelkrenzer3296 fastenal still carries the solder seal connectors. Bought them accidentally once.

@robertheinkel6225 4 месяца назад

As a retired crew chief in the Air Force, no butt connectors were allowed. We had to replace the wire or harness

@johnschreiber2504 4 месяца назад

That is interesting, but not a butt connection, as the wires overlap. (a lap, rather than butt joint) Where soldering in aviation, such as terminals for a radio installation RE: solder, Tin conductor for about half its exposed length. This is enough to take advantage of the closed part of solder cup. Tinning or solder on wire above the cup causes wire to be stiff at point where flexing takes place. This will result in wire breakage. Today we mostly use crimped connectors.

@keithstudly6071 4 месяца назад

@@robertheinkel6225 That's because you were a "Crew Chief" and not a repair depot. Depot or manufacturer will document damage and do an approved repair and tag part as repaired. Be glad you didn't have to do these things in the field.

@The_Noticer. 4 месяца назад

Louis Rossman also made a video where he checked out several amazon products, and they all failed. So, sourcing proper crimps is step 1... And pull-test them :P

@MitzvosGolem1 4 месяца назад

As a salt water marine mechanic since 1979 I agree 👍💯 I put anticorrosion compound on copper in crimps before crimp and shrink Put liquid electric tape over it Best is to solder and shrink wrap critical connection like bilge pump wires etc . Also in crimp place metal seam in correct position in tool so connector metal folds in to itself during crimp . Usually seam goes away from point on tool

@jerryfaircloth 4 месяца назад

I would have to second that. On salt water boat connections I always solder and use marine grade heat shrink with the interior adhesive coating. Otherwise eventually they will fail.

@snapperboat25 4 месяца назад

As a former marine surveyor and someone who has spent a good bit of time in the rust belt there is little difference between the marine environment and the salt issues in snowy areas. In fact the salt issues in the rust belt are probably worse due to the salt being pure and being forced throughout the vehicle due to road spray. Following marine procedures in the rust belt is a good idea. Soldering on boats is a big point of contention in the marine industry due to vibration of boats under power causing failure due to the hardness of the solder. I personally never found a failed solder connection on any boat in 25 years of surveying.

@TheOtherBill 4 месяца назад

NO-OX-ID A-Special. Coat it good, then heat it up and let it flow. Good for 40 years IME. Also prevents any sort of corrosion on battery terminals.

@okopnik 4 месяца назад

Ha - another salt water mechanic! 😉 Yeah, the ocean teaches you to do it the right way, every time.

@okopnik 4 месяца назад

@@snapperboat25 Oh, DUDE. I could tell you endless stories about soldered connections gone bad - including a Gozzard 50 where I had to rewire *the entire panel* precisely because those connections (all soldered) had broken loose. Poor soldering, unsecured harnesses, no drip loops... that boat's electrical system was a nightmare (well, mostly for the owner.) We were both headed for the Caribbean, and in every harbor where I crossed paths with this guy, he had yet another job for me. ☺

@ppeters480 5 месяцев назад

Great video, I actually just got that better crimper earlier this year, been using that red one for years

@onejohn2.26. 4 месяца назад

if you have enough slack wire nuts then filled with Elmer's glue works great

@spelunkerd 4 месяца назад

As much as any corner in auto repair, it's possible to do this wrong for years before you start getting negative feedback from a return. Ultimately one needs to know his tools. The whole design feels like a lost opportunity, although I don't deny that the way it is done presently seems to work fine. In the more time consuming solder technique, we would wrap wires together mechanically so that even if a joint cracked there would be underlying mechanical contact that you don't get with these. At first I wondered why not wrap wires together, until I tried to slide a butt connector over a twisted pair. Too bulky. Even if you do get it over, the heat shrink won't reliably seal properly at the ends....

@gogmorgoaway 4 месяца назад

I've seen too many of those full of green death even without obvious damage to the heat shrink tube to be comfortable using them. I worked five years in a highway maintenance shop in the Canadian Rockies and if you think the vehicles driving in the road salt have corrosion problems, wait till you see the trucks putting the salt on the road. Doesn't really seem to matter how tightly sealed a component is, if there's a gap that water can sit in, it'll sit there and rot out your wires. I always twist-solder-heat shrink, seems like even uninsulated crimps don't last as long if you don't fill them full of solder before heat shrinking. It reduces the surface area available to corrosion.

@cruze1953 4 месяца назад

For critical applications, like you described, you nailed it. I work with 4-20mA instrumentation and always follow up a crimped barrel splice with solder because it acts as a "seal" (just as you described) The solder never exits the barrel so there is no issue from solder that wicks up the wire. The sealed mechanical splice is further sealed by double-wall 3:1 shrink w/melt liner (3M). For less critical applications and/or environment the solder step isn't necessary.

@handymandev03 4 месяца назад

Using common sense is anyone's best tool.

@SimpleElectronics 4 месяца назад

I used those for years but these days I find myself fixing a lot of 28 awg and even lighter on newer Fords - so I have switched to uninsulated butt splices and double wall 3:1 heat shrink with the resin seal - it ends up being cheaper and I only need to keep a few sizes of heat shrink in my kit now and I find I get a better crimp and don't have to be concerned about damaging the heat shrink. also if you need your repair not to chafe, you can put a large piece of heat shrink over it and then ziptie that. Either way, we're all working to the same goal!

@TheFritz423 4 месяца назад

Put liquid tape over the crimp and seal connector and you can leave submerged in salt water (think bilges.) Never had one fail in 20 years.

@acwright 4 месяца назад

Just use your teeth to crimp. I've done it 31 times. I can do it one more time

@crasher88 4 месяца назад

Best why I'm my opinion is to use the bare metal butt connectors. Crimp connector onto wire flow some solder into the connector and cover with the good sealing heat shrink with the glue in it.

@cruze1953 4 месяца назад

Best of both worlds! The solder provides another layer of protection. Actually a layer that crimping does NOT. Your method is how I do it for critical applications. Although I pop for top of the line 3M double-wall w/melt liner. Stuff is dope.

@dougkubash8673 5 месяцев назад

The crimp and seal connectors that i use you need to strip the wire almost 3/8" so the wire makes it to the crimp part. I've had real good luck with them.

@tiredagain6722 4 месяца назад

Thomas Betts makes great crimpers!

@isb170swap8 4 месяца назад

I dont have a problem with the crimp and seal connectors, but most often the problem I run into is no ome bothered to heat up the coating and shrink it down.

@MarcS-mp1je 4 месяца назад

I frequent flea markets and garage sales . Many moons ago I found Thomas and Betts crimpers and wire strippers made in Elizabeth New Jersey, good ol ‘murica made stuff . From the first time that I put them in my hands, I knew right away that they were excellent quality tools.(we all know a good quality well made hand tool by the feel of it),years later and hundreds if not thousands of crimps later I haven’t looked back. Thomas and Betts combined with a pair of older Ideal stripmasters are basically all that I use now and never had a failure,

@802Garage 4 месяца назад

I use Haisstronica crimps as well. They are greay. I crimp with an IWISS/iCrimp ratcheting crimper specifically for insulated connectors. The crimps can always hold up to significant pulling force. So far, I have never had a failure. The crimpers with square flat jaws are the best for this style of crimp. It's all about using the right tools for the job as well as having a well tested and repeatable process.

@SouthMainAuto 4 месяца назад

Exactly

@shadowdog500 4 месяца назад

I switched to Ancor marine grade wire and connectors decades ago when I saw how well it performed in my salt water boat.

@major__kong 4 месяца назад

I use milspec aviation terminals and marine grade wire unless it's an airplane and then I use milspec wire. The terminals are probably the same, but the wire insulation is different for aviation being better in a fire and being mechanically tougher for abrasion resistance.

@KrazyGoodMods 4 месяца назад

I think that it helps to use a heat gun. You can really cook it to release the sealing glue without worrying about catching it on fire.

@j.c.smithprojects 4 месяца назад

if i only had a dollar for each one i have found crimped wrong or never fully heated and never sealed.

@AdmissionGaming 4 месяца назад

I made the body harness in my drift car with insulated crimps. People told me itd never work and unreliable. 4 years later its still fine. Eric is right its all in the user.

@OtisFlint 4 месяца назад

Lol, people are dumb. If they told you to solder for a motorsports application than thats even funnier.

@harryworkshop4001 4 месяца назад

Thanks for the information, never too old to learn something new. First time since using crimpers that I knew there was a right tool for the job, have always been using the crimpers that left the dimples. Thanks again.

@ismaelcarrerojr7124 4 месяца назад

👏👏👏so well explain even a pre k can understand it, thank you Eric.

@Wayne-Jones 4 месяца назад

Bad workmen always blame their tools, in BA we have a different crimp tool for every crimp type, their specifically designed to be used only for that size/type crimp and wire, and not only crimp perfectly but only release once the correct crimp pressure has been applied. We generally use “Amp”crimp tools expensive but really good. Another good lesson Mr O 👍

@sfbfriend 4 месяца назад

In aircraft manufacturing we also had many different crimp tools, many were manufactured by Daniels.are you familiar with that company? I've crimped, and tested that crimp when setting up a new line, on more wires than I care to remember...

@robertkeaney7047 4 месяца назад

Yes, AMP aircraft tooling for crimping. No substitute for a proper splice

@cruze1953 4 месяца назад

@@sfbfriend That is a $1000 crimper compared to a $25 crimper! mil-spec.

@for2utube 4 месяца назад

Back in the day the crimp starter “kit” cost about 10 tanks of gas; solder starter “kit” 4. A lot of my earlier life choices were cost-based.

@wk2268 4 месяца назад

Milwaukee M18 heat gun works fabulous for heating up these "heat shrinkable" terminations. Plus it's cordless.... A flame doesn't heat evenly and they can crack.

@tatertots-n-soup 4 месяца назад

Some have skillz to be a mechanic some have to pay rediculous costs for a tool

@OtisFlint 4 месяца назад

@@tatertots-n-soup open flame is never the best way.

@Monkeh616 4 месяца назад

@@tatertots-n-soup Some recognise that one of the skills of any trade is knowing what tools make your life easier and reduce the chances of error.

@bobweiss8682 4 месяца назад

Using the proper tooling is the key to making proper crimped connections. I work in the electronics field, and have accumulated an entire toolbox drawer full of nothing but various crimping and pin extraction tools for all the different types of connectors I work with.

@sheerwillsurvival2064 4 месяца назад

You got me Again just spent $75 on them 😵‍💫

@will5286 4 месяца назад

BIGGEST PROBLEM is that people go out and buy THE CHEAPEST CONNECTORS THEY CAN FIND---I've been using HIGH QUALITY ANCOR brand MARINE CONNECTORS with THE CORRECT CRIMPER TOOL for 30 years-only problems are MY MISTAKES

@osvaldocristo 2 дня назад

OMG! It is so obvious AFTER your demo! Thanks for share.

@ShainAndrews 4 месяца назад

That's why I use non insulated terminals, and quality lined heat shrink. Full control over the entire process.

@danlemke6407 5 месяцев назад

I remember as a kid futzin with old car stereos out of a junked car and powered by my slot car transformer, so I could have tunes in my room. I would make all the connections with cheap black tape, which we all know the difference in the 10 rolls for a buck 2.98 and the good stuff. While I did just fine putting tunes in my room, it rarely got the road treatment. When I got older and worked on cars, I thought sodder (just so you could read it right) and shrink tube were the berries. Once I got where time was an issue, I quickly went to crimp connectors, although to be honest, I was in the HVAC trade and a few jobs got the ole wirenut treatment. The only thing I hate about the crimp and seal jobbies is the stinkin price. They are 25 bucks for 10 of the lil bastids at the local parts house. I do have them and order them online for a lot less and even though I'm sure they are Chinesium, they work well. I do wanna mention, like everything else we do, proper torque (pressure) is key to most, if not all connections. Sorry for the bloated post. I was onna roll... This old dog keeps learnin, love your vids. thx Eric.

@mjmcomputers 4 месяца назад

When I bought my first box of crimp and seal connectors I bought that same style ratcheting crimper and have never had an issue. I never understood why people hate on these but maybe they are using the wrong crimpers.

@harrylister804 4 месяца назад

They're probably using vice grips or any old pair of pliers within reach.

@nv1493 4 месяца назад

Ah, Eric you've poked the hornets nest. Right there with what's the best oil......

@cruze1953 4 месяца назад

I think Eric is having some Orville Reddenbacker gormet popcorn!

@shinyredcobra 4 месяца назад

I love these educational workshops, keep them coming Mr O!

@johnschreiber2504 4 месяца назад

May I suggest Thomas and Betts WT 111 and similar crimpers. The length of the crimp is double that of the snap-on crimper, and the physical effort needed to operate the tool is much lower. Ideal Stripmaster wire strippers with the correct blades prevent damaging individual strands when stripping. Different blades are available for different wire types.

@buscuttbutchie 4 месяца назад

Super big fan of the channel exclamation point Eric I need your help please! I have a 2007 GMC Yukon Denali. It's got the big 6.2 engine but it also has a P0300. It starts and runs extremely rough. I've taken it to three mechanics and gotten three different answers. None of them fix the problem! They have changed the fuel pump, coils, spark plug wires, coil rail wires, PCM just to name a few parts SMH. I've watched a videos and have an appreciation for a diagnostic skills. Would you be interested in taking me on as a client ? I live in Brooklyn New York and can have the car shipped to you. Please help!

@RickOSidhe 4 месяца назад

I've used crimp & seal for marine applications for decades without a problem. A poor splice will fail regardless of the connection method. A soldered connection with the wrong size or type of heatshrink will fail just as quickly as a poorly crimped crimp & seal butt connector. At the end of the day, just make sure that you use adhesive lined 3:1 heatshrink tubing over a soldered splice or a crimp & seal connector with the same properties crimped using the proper crimping surface on whatever tool you use. No idea why this is a controversial take.

@JohnDoesGarage 4 месяца назад

I really don't have a favorite or preferred method for making connections. It really depends on several factors. Where are you making the connection? Is it easy to access with plenty of room or is it a PITA where you have very little room? What is the environment, like will it be soaking in salt water constantly? Regardless of the method, crimp and seal, non-insulated or solder with shrink wrap, make sure you perform your chosen connection properly. Be proficient in all methods of making connections and you will always be able to make a good connection, which is the end goal in my humble opinion. You demonstrated how to make a flawless crimp and seal connection. Thank you for another very informative video. No matter how long I've been spinning wrenches I never stop reviewing basic repairs because somebody always has a better way to do it.

@stephenjackson9555 4 месяца назад

These are used in military applications all of the time. There’s a MIL-STD associated (81824/1) just for these types of butt connections. If they are good enough when done correctly for the military, then they should work for automakers.

@clintprice2123 4 месяца назад

Eastwood makes a pair of ratcheting crimpers that grab from the front when there isn’t enough wire or room to get it from the side. I saw them at their local store here and bought them for just those times like u see the dashboard. Nice demonstration as always Eric!

@hikerJohn 4 месяца назад

Haisstronica looks like it might be German but it's Chinese trademark of Wenzhou Haishan Trading Co so pronounce it the best you can the way it looks like it should be . . . HIGH'-STRONICA but say the "high" part super fast if you want to sound almost Chinese.

@TheBry_Guy 4 месяца назад

The perfect butt connector, with the shown perfect crimper will work 100% of the time on the bench.... but will only fit into the required space 50% of the time :) 25% of the time if you try to use a double clip holder and solder it. more seriously, yep, great tool for a shop. likely a pricy kit for a DIYer. I remember looking for a kit of like 6 yellow, 6 red, 6 blue just for emergencies but they were about 4$ per crimp, and 150% for a plastic crimper. (Canada). If anyone knows a better priced/quality set available here or shippable. let a guy know.

@notsureigaf 4 месяца назад

0:50 I was pleasantly surprised by Harbor Freight's $10 self-adjusting stripper, so far I've used it on small to medium gauge wire and it's worked pretty consistently as long as you're not afraid to experiment with the fine-tuning dial. They also have a new $15 pistol grip stripper, probably a ripoff of that Knipex. HF's Doyle brand ratcheting crimper has served me well too.

@kovalenkoihor4325 4 месяца назад

Do you know something about Toyota Sienna AC rear block off? In particular 2007-2010 with 2GR-FE. Is it done from below the car or under the hood?

@WTFwuzdat 4 месяца назад

The Butt Joint Marketing Department: "how are we going to get these men to use all these PINK connectors?". 🤔 "I know. We'll put RED on the label. They're all colorblind anyways". 😂

@SoFloCamejo 4 месяца назад

In the marine manufacturing industry to meet ABYC specs is to only use ratcheting crimpers and heat shrink butt connectors, plus supported by a zip tie every 4 inches but that’s sort of irrelevant with the automotive industry. As a manufacturer you can lose your ABYC/NMMA (American boat & yacht council & National Marine Manufacturers association) if you’re not using them. Soldering is a no-go with boats because of the potential fire hazards in a fiberglass boat factory + the vibrations and harsh conditions can crack soldered connections, regular rubber heat shrink used with uninsulated connectors don’t like the saltwater and heat in the rigging areas of boats and in my experience don’t last as long as these kind of heat shrink butt connectors. Plus for your on the water tool kits, it’s less stuff to carry and potentially lose when you keep a tackle box just full of the blue, pink & yellow heat shrink connectors.

@johnasosajr 4 месяца назад

I have the Mac pair basically same thing as snap on i work for ford and always use the barrel connector with the shrink wrap but I have seen previous repairs fail from wiring issues

@SGT_Gunnery_Hartman Месяц назад

I have butt connectors which are straight thro, can i splay the multi strand wires on each cable, mesh them together then slide the butt over, make the 2crimps off, slide over the adhesive heat shrink and finish off with heat gun. I would think meshing the 2 cables together would give better bite when crimping down. Take a bit longer to make off a joint but would this be ok or a complete no-no?

@richardedmondson9434 4 месяца назад

HAISSTRONICA: Why do we suddenly have an extra 250 million orders for butt connectors this week?

@charliehayes6667 17 дней назад

If I am using any crimp connector that will be exposed to salt i will coat the wires in NYK corrosion preventive grease before inserting them in the connector. Never had any issues since. Great for trailer connector plugs as well.

@mmix224 4 месяца назад

You mean... if I do a bad install, it will fail! 😅 Also, Carlyle makes a copy (as do a lot of tool companies) of those snap on pliers. I paid atound $26 for mine.

@OneLegged-honda-mechanic 4 месяца назад

Your SK green crimper, I use the same crimper it’s a Blue point, only I don’t use it to crimp, I’ve always used them to turn in screw in honda rear brake calipers. The tip fits perfectly in there. That crimper I have stays in my roll cart and been using it for brakes since the mid 90s 😂

@ron.owensby 4 месяца назад

Haisstronica (Hi Straw Nick uh) makes a crimper set with 6 interchangeable dies for every connector known to man. About $50 to $60 I thonk.

@emmettturner9452 4 месяца назад

When soldering with an iron, the melted solder conducts heat almost directly from your tip and gets the wires hot too, allowing it to wet properly with a touch of fresh solder immediately after it flows. I don’t know how the solder stick kinds are even supposed to work right when you can’t directly heat. Even once the solder melts you have insulation between the heat source and the heat source cannot control the temperature of the joint. Avoiding cold solder joints would mean absolutely COOKING the wire and there is no visual way to tell that the joint is properly wet. Also, I thought you weren’t supposed to use solder on stranded wire that is subject to vibration… only crimp. The solder creates hard points for individual strands to start fatiguing and breaking.

@OldePhart 4 месяца назад

I have those "proper" crimpers from decades ago when they were made by Amphenol (AMP) and the jaws are interchangeable, Mine even has jaws for 4 and 6 pin phone connectors... when those were relevant... . They also had a nice set of jaws I lost that has a ball bearing as the crimping anvil and didn't puncture the nylon insulation as you demonstrated. But they are big. Appreciate ya Eric.

@martyb4815 4 месяца назад

Going back to avionics school 35+ yrs ago, but the have much better heat shrink terminals from AMP & or RAYCHEM two piece.

@danhnguyen-fn9eb 4 месяца назад

You hit it on the head when you said you need to use the correct tool and you could say use the correct tool correctly. I've used those types of connectors for years and before that those connectors that didn't have the "Goo" in them. Never did like them but they were available and cheap and I didn't live in the salt-belt. So as long as I used a good pair of crimpers I always had solid connections and then would either tape or shrink wrap depending on the situation. Instead of salt corrosion where I lived the main concern was tugging, rubbing or the pulling of the repaired wires.

@GTOFan350 4 месяца назад

When I'm repairing wiring, my employers policy is solder, uninsulated butt connector, and heat shrink. The hundreds of repairs I've done, never had one come back failed yet. I'll stick with that method.

@notsoserious0944 4 месяца назад

Union electricians, laboring under an exacting tool list--no more, no less--crimp with the very-very end of Channelock 420s and melt the schmoo with their knock off bic lighter whilst smoking a sweet, sweet Basic filtered and yelling at their apprentice.

@TEDodd 4 месяца назад

Use the right crimp tool with quality connectors like Amphenol, TE Connectivity (AMP/Tyco), and Molex.

@Katya5cat 4 месяца назад

I found that crimper with strippers is worthless. They tend to trade off features to try making one tool do the work of 2 or 3. I love my Snap-On or Blue Point, not sure crimper cutters. They are quite long, so they good have leverage for crimping. They handle all 3 common sizes as they have 2 insulated crimper and non-insulated ones. I use a separate stripper usually an automatic one.

@bmdbigfeet1031 4 месяца назад

I work on log trucks so one can imagine the amount of wiring issues they have. He's 100% correct on the crimping with the snap on crimper, Too aggressive so i don't use them. So you crimp them as gently as possible (with the right tool) thinking you didnt punch through but 6 months later, there you are trying to find an issue. And sure as hell there it is. Green death in the joint. All it takes is just a second too long with the torch and it will haunt you later on . Im done with them. They're great for a quick roadside repair but I've gone to the bare metal connectors and shrink tube. Fairly fool proof and lower profile so you don't have a wad of connections to wrap up.

@pipbernadotte6707 4 месяца назад

The best stuff I've ever used, was working in aviation where the standard is DMC tooling and mil spec wiring and connectors. All of which are super expensive.

@Iowa599 4 месяца назад

I use the uninsulated crimper on the crimp & seal connectors, but ALWAYS ensure that little hole gets filled (& sealed) when shrinking! I have had the Insulated crimp jaws crimp so tightly the wires were cut (~22ga wire in white connector, smaller than red). That glue that oozes is hot-melt glue, on the crimp & seal connectors and on "marine" heat shrink. I have NEVER had a failure! Even when repairing sensor wires, but I will not use them for high current circuits. i also have a pair of the same "overpriced" Snap On pliers, & they are my preferred electrical pliers. They aren't over priced, imo, because they have worked perfectly for over a decade! Sure, cheapos are 1/10 the price, but they wear out after a year (or less) without ever working well!

@RichieCat4223 4 месяца назад

2:09 I use the non insulated crimper on both types. The trick is don't be a gorilla and over squeeze the crimp. Also crimp from the correct side. I too use marine grade because of the glue inside them. "Retired" mechanic of 50+ years.

@KSMike1 4 месяца назад

For an even better crimper, have a look at either the RF Products RFA-4005 or the West Mountain Radio PwrCrimp, both with whatever dies you need.

@speedy_pit_stop 4 месяца назад

Truth be told, the Snap-On is not the right tool for this type of insulated connectors. The "non-insulated" section "could" be used, maybe, very carefully, in tight spots. But if you try a pull test after using the flat "insulated" section (with a pink connector), you'll see that the connection does not hold. The reason being that the jaw reaches the end of its travel before a good crimp can be achieved.

@gregdawson1909 4 месяца назад

Ratchet crimpers are the best, they are a little bulky... Pro tip, you can buy different dies for your crimper and make one tool work for hexagonal coaxial connectors, the folded ear pins for weatherpacs, this type of insulated connector, all sorts of stuff.. Also, I'm a big belt and suspenders guy, slap a coat of liquid electrical tape on any connector you want to last.. go with Starbrite with the methyl ethyl kill you, and even if you don't stick the landing you are good to go.

@user-vf7gp1hr9c 4 месяца назад

Thank you, Eric. I think all these 'old wives tales' around the auto mechanic trade that you debunk are just for the lowest common denominator/people who aren't mechanically inclined. Somebody screwed it up at some point and then passed on the 'wisdom' which subsequent generations adopt as the gospel.

@chrisp174 4 месяца назад

The SnapOn Crimpers seem to still pierce the butt connector. At least my pair does. Maybe my pair have sharper edges. I picked up a pair of Doyle's from Harbor Freight and those ones won't work on the pink connectors but work pretty good for the other colors.

@SirHeadly84 4 месяца назад

Sometimes im pretty anal about my crimps. Even if i use the insulated crimps, ill often still use both extra shrink AND tessa tape. Sure its probably overkill if i did the crimp right. But i dont want green crusties😂

@JDARJISJ 4 месяца назад

I’m going to just sit here with popcorn and wait for Pine Hollow Automotive to chime in here. He is always busting his friend Eric O’s chops for using crimp and seals.

@richardluce775 4 месяца назад

The biggest problem with “The Proper” crimp tool is trying to sneak that monster in a multi wire bundle jammed in a channel…. So,uninsulated with heat shrink w/goo in my go to.

@kevinrenn9123 4 месяца назад

Thanks Eric, you're as bad as Todd at Project Farm for causing me to buy stuff I don't need right now but I'm sure Amazon loves it

@fredflintstone8048 4 месяца назад

It's a catch-22. Being in the business of working on electrical control systems for decades the only really good quality crimp regarding the 'inside' of the barrels electrically and physically is using the crimp with the tooth that sort of 'folds' the crimp. I also always find the seam in the barrel and put the seam toward the smooth side of the crimper opposite where the tooth will engage. Crimping the seam with the tooth makes for a poor quality garbage crimp job. The problem is that the flat types of crimpers only squash the electrical connection and I have dealt with many of those connection that have failed. I could quite literally pull the wire out of the crimp connectors that were done that way. So if you use the so called, 'wrong' crimp with the tooth, you puncture the insulation. If you use the so called 'correct' type of crimper, the insulation is maintained but you don't have the best quality crimp. Argue all you want about it. I'm speaking from decades of experience working with thousands and thousands of crimp connections. My inclination is to use the tooth crimper and then slide heat shrink with the sealant / glue inside and call it good. I totally agree that moisture must be sealed out of the connection regardless of how you do it.

@stephanieluigon5192 4 месяца назад

Back in the day, on exposed long runs of wire which would be in service for decades (think semi-trailers) the resistance of an unprotected ( Read: no solder) wire connection would eventually lead to failure of even the most well sealed butt connector. UV will eventually beat even the best plastic. It is also a good idea to not touch the wire you are crimping. The salt in your sweat is an electrolyte, which will contribute to the deterioration of the repair. The best prevention I encountered for this was the heat shrink butt connectors which also had solder lined crimps, so the solder melted as the insulation shrunk. I realize that the guys who "wrench" for a living do not have the time to spend tinning and heat shrinking connections and still make a dime, and sometimes it just can't be done, because of location or space constraints. But if you want the best possible long term repair, solder and heat shrink is still the answer for the "DIY" guys and gals. The old adage: " Why is there never time to do it right, but always time to do it over." applies to electrical, too. And never use butt connectors on a boat, jet ski, boat trailer, etc. Water and electric. No bueno. H2 Oxygen.

@eugeneanderson7984 4 месяца назад

Use the Snap On type the uninsulated end to get a good crimp when your crimp is made give the 10 pound pull test. Visual inspection if you damage the plastic a drop of super glue will seal for 50 years. Have a great Cat Man 1 Forty Five years of heavy success.