It could be that I figured out why the valve leaks. So many people were complaining and a quick fix is to replace the valve. But then after a while the replacment vave leask. Why? What was going on?
To reduce the possibility of the O-ring leaking, the surface of the piston that slides back and forth should be carefully polished. In practice, the marks of the turning, however accurate, act like a rasp, reducing the life of the O-ring itself.
Awesome. Thanks for the knowledge. This will help out thoes who need a starting point for troubleshooting. Its the most logical point, least expensive fix and I really wish I would have seen this 3 years ago when my buddy gave it to me used and uncertain of the shape it was in. As well as if and what may be wrong with it. But it was fun to tear down and inspect the mechanisms. Replaced all seals, springs, gaskets and added a couple extra o rings and sanded trigger smooth. Lubed it a touch. Added an o ring with a stringer return trigger spring. Added an o ring to the inner valve and a stronger spring and new teflon gasket. All of this could have been avoided just by putting a stronger washer? Hahaha. Thanks again.
Thanks. I have tinkered some with one of my 1077 rifless since it was a detuned gun. I opened the valve and just put in a softher valve spring in it. That raised the velocity ca 100 fps. I might try other mods for it later. Nice to know there are others that work on these rifles to :) Cheers.
Hello. I modify the stock internal valve spring by heating both ends quickly with a propane torch, only 1 1/2 coils, and then at the right moment squeeze with pliers so the overall length is shorter. I do one end at a time. I first experimented on a similar spring to get the technique down. By shortening the overall spring length by about 1/8 of an inch boosted the velocity. I'm getting over 710 fps depending on ambient temperature. Next, where the end of the CO2 cartridge meets the seal, behind that is the piercing pin. And behind that is a screen. I take an old screen and gut it so I only end up with the metal band and then use that as a shim to give more space between the back side of the piercing pin and the screen itself.
@@handygent45 would adjusting the valve spring be more reliable than adding weight to the hammer or fitting a stronger hammer spring, less stress on the plastic internals etc? and obviously less resting pressure on the valve internals.
@@prawny12009 Hello. Since I uploaded this video I made some additional discoveries. First, I was determined to crack the problems of the 1077, both in leaks and performance. One problem is the dirty CO2 cartridges, dirt left over from the drawing process. I cut a few open on a lathe and was amazed how much dirt is inside. I cut open several brands and all had dirt. The dirt is gritty and ruins the seals, and also is pasty and clogs vital parts, such as the filter screen. So I removed the cartridge and cap(with stem) and made a refillable cylinder to go inside the tube. The foster fitting comes out of the cylinder at the end of the screw cap. The refillable cylinder holds more gas than three 12 gram cylinders. Now with the dirt problem solved I continued in my investigation. The hammers of the 1077 vary in weight. I apply epoxy to the back side. The weight of the epoxy is quite substantial given its displacement. As of yet i am still figuring out the ideal weight for the hammer. As you should know if you want more power you sacrifice shot count. I'm after the power. I've already solved the accuracy problem, and the barrel wobble inside the barrel housing. I really like the 1077, to unleash its potential. My goal is to shoot a 7.9 grain pellet over 800 fps. I'm getting close. I made a special mixture of CO2 and Argon, about a 90/10 mix, since a dash of Argon helps to prevent the CO2 from being so temperature sensitive.
@@handygent45 great information. How has the epoxy weight been working? I thought about it too but was afraid that it would fall off after repeated knocking. I was thinking of using JB cold weld
That’s an older 1077. A bit different than the newer versions. I usually use two orings there and they are still holding up after about 4 years.😱I may make a video on a few of them I modded.
Hello. Here is another mod you might want to try. First, most people know that you should place a drop of oil on the end of the CO2 cartridge every time it is replaced. The magic elixir for air guns is Wintergreen Oil, known as methyl salicylate. I mix the oil with silicone oil, about 3-to-1, one part Wintergreen Oil. The stuff keeps the rubber parts soft so they won't leak. I have two 1077 that hold CO2 for over a year. I'll be uploading another video.
could be the capsule seal itself, the original seal is expensive for what it is, I found some cheaper ones on ebay listed for 2240 2250 2260 model but wasn't too happy with them without some modification, they are a pack of five for roughly the price of one original style seal. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-X-POLYURETHANE-C02-CARTRIDGE-TO-VALVE-SEAL-TO-FIT-CROSMAN-2240-2250-2260/274358651109?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 The outside diameter was too small (technically it would seal but just barely) so I added an o ring around it to take up the gap, it also didn't look as thick as the original so i put a shim/ washer underneath the seal, It might work without the washer but I never tried.
I'll be buying a 1077 soon based on all of the videos I've watched. I believe your assessment of why that valve was leaking is probably correct. Many folks have changed out the spring to one that is longer/stronger. That could add to the leakage problem, or cause it to occur sooner, if you are correct. Just a thought. And it seems like just doubling the washer (use 2) should provide a fix? I'll probably try that. I'll not increase the strength of the spring without a good reason.
Here is another mystery of the 1077. The barrel (which is inside the barrel housing) is angled upwards. The original 1077 the end of the barrel was not in the center at the end of the housing. Those barrels were in a straight angle.
I have the leaking problem and when I screw the co2 cartridge in it either doesn't pierce or leaks out all of the co2 immediately. There is no in between, no pierce or leaks All co2. Any suggestions?
Hello. I'm making a follow-up video how to take the valve apart and reassemble and give advice to keep the valves from leaking afterwards. These valves are fussy and I use a high-grade silicone oil during assembly. I made a tool kit that consists of a base and push rod. If the parts are not aligned perfectly the valve leaks. The upper O-ring sits on a small ridge and if its not seated properly it leaks. Also, I made an oil injector to lube the valve for regular servicing. I modified an spent CO2 cartridge by drilling a hole in the side and tapped to install a tire stem valve. You remove the stock and insert the injector as you would with any CO2 cartridge. There is a slotted hole in the tube and after the injector is in place, the air valve can be screwed in through the slotted hole. But first I add about five drops of the silicone oil in the injector then hook up to an air compressor. It pushes the oil into the valve when you pull the trigger. This way you can service the valve without doing a tear down.
The 1077 was stubborn to reveal its secrets. The transfer tube most likely needs new O-rings, unless the ends of the tube got damaged in some way. What keeps the 1077 from leaking is Wintergreen Oil, which can be bought at a drug store. I add some to the silicone oil and you must add oil every time you change the CO2 cartridge. The O-rings in the valve do not like CO2. The Wintergreen Oil protects them. The biggest problem is dirty gas. If you would cut open an empty cartridge and swab the inside with a Q-Tip, they are loaded with residual dirt left over from the drawing process. The dirt clogs the screen and you have a loss of power.
since i bought this gun from the first day, there are no power and the velocity was extremely slow. Can somebody explain to me or is it the valve leak? i don't know what to do with that 1077 since i have great expectation of it before i purchase it!
I'll have to upload a video to give a proper explanation. But this much I can say now, the Co2 cartridges are very dirty inside, and the greasy dirt gets into the rifle. Take an empty Co2 cartridge and cut it in half with a hacksaw blade. Then take a cotton swab and rub the inside to see lots of dirt. Cartridges made by one company are cleaner than others. To keep the cost down the cartridges are not cleaned before filling.
