I worked for a car manufacturer for almost 3 decades. Every engineer from power train group I ever worked with was not favorable to long drain intervals. The environmental impact of waste oil and competitive pressures for low maintenance costs pushed their managers to do it. The reduced water jacket height in block and oil spray jets allowed oil to get to evaporating temp for fuel and moisture and better oil all got them to the best result. THEN reduced friction was the goal and ring width and spring force were one the first and easiest things to do to reduce effort needed to turn engine over. High output demands then got us turbochargers. The ring heat and more plastic like particle formation got the ring groove sludge build that sticks rings. The basic indisputable fact is that ANY oil gains contaminants with engine use hours. Dirt particles smaller than air filter capture size and fuel that is not combusted that is on cylinder walls and is scraped down by rings will accrue in the oil. Synthetic oil is better at tolerating this but it is still oil and still accrues the same stuff. Superfine bypass flow oil filtering can get the particles but still you have the other dilutes building up. As stated, ONLY MORE FREQUENT OIL SERVICE fixes this. So you buy a prepaid maintenance plan and it only covers the standard schedule? Find a trusted quick lube and get the base service oil change. If you keep the car it will pay it back. Even without ring concerns the overwhelming bulk of vehicles have timing chains and variable cam timing. Those c omponents suffer from the dilutes in oil causing wear not seen in 150K mile engines with more oil changes done. Camshaft in hemis, tappets in GM V8s, and cam phasers in some Fords? Not seen much at all when the oil changes were done at 5K interval. Listen to Car Care Nut
Thank you for sharing your expertise! This is the non watered down version of this video! And it’s very well said! I have been humming this drum for a long time. Automotive Engineers are pushed to their limits and then some with strict emission standards and an ever changing automotive industry.
I love hearing guys calling coyotes and hemis crap when their beloved LS eats a gallong of oil every hour and taps away like an impatient drummer all because they're either too lazy or too stingy to put in the extra money/effort to properly care for their engine.
Petroleum derived lubricants whether its made via hydrotreating, hydrocracking, or catalytic reformation, does not provide nearly the same level of protection that a good PAO and diester basestock synthetic oil does. For example, petroleum derived lubricants will fall off the cylinder walls within 48 hours due to gravity and leave your cylinders virtually dry. When you crank the engine over, for a few seconds your cylinders will be running completely DRY and cause asperity formation which leads to galling. The resultant by-product of asperity formation is the iron particles you see in your used engine oil. There is also the aspect of "severe" operating conditions (extreme high or low temp) which alters your oils viscosity. In very cold conditions petroleum/mineral derived motor oil has small amounts of residual waxes in the oil that crystalizes. When this happens, the viscosity increases to the point of being unusable. There are no practical methods to prevent this other than the use a motor oil that has a much lower viscosity than that which is ideal for the engines operating temperature. This creates a conflict that was "solved" by viscosity index modifiers, which are added to a low viscosity mineral oil to prevent a total loss of viscosity at engine operating temperatures. The problem is that viscosity index modifiers are long chained polymers that work by swelling via molecular expansion, which isn't bad per-se, except that the extreme forces and pressures from the babbit bearings causes these unstable long chained polymers to break down. This is known as "shear losses" and cause the oil to become unusable in a rapid period of time. A good quality synthetic oil is inherently stable across a much wider range of thermal operating conditions and thus doesn't need viscosity index modifiers to retain its viscosity at low and high temperatures, making it comparably insusceptible to shear losses. This is just ONE of about a dozen core fundamental aspects of motor oil. We haven't even got into total base numbers, the importance of ZnDDP, pour point depressants, borderline pumping temperature, anti foaming agents, oxidation inhibitors, detergents & dispersents, corrosion inhibitors, anti-wear agents, tribological additives, and much more. I could go into super crazy autistic details and write a whole book on the subject, but fortunately other people already have.
@@smh9902 I have a 2010 MDX with 289K running syn oil the whole time, extended oil change intervals. Usually in the service manuals it will state "If you live in extremely hot temps you should go to a 10W-30 oil". I'm convinced the OE's are using the thinnest oil that get the best EPA mileage return and not so much for longevity. I've been told they use non ethanol gasoline for this testing because higher mileage is attained. As best as I can tell from the consumer standpoint the thicker the oil the thicker the film strength that with an aging engine benefits very well. Syn opposed to petroleum base are old rotary dial compared to current cellphones. Scuffing bearings and cylinder walls are contaminated oil or lack of oil but sticky oil control rings are in direct relation to compression rings sealing. The thicker oil serves to lessen this problem. The PCV system is in direct relation to oil contamination and as the engine has more miles might be the most neglected system in the engine.
First time i ever heard an Automotive technician on RU-vid say : I LOVE YOU ALL AND I CARE ABOUT YOU” this man has a good heart ontop of being an excellent technician with excellent advice. I could envision this guy being a teacher or professor and doing much good in this World. 👍🙏😃
He is 100% correct! I work at a service department at a Toyota dealership. Folks just change your oil and filter every 3k-5k or every 6 months and your good.
@@666dynomax Excellent! Hey take a look at this video. In the middle he speaks about oil changes. Search "Why do Toyota engines consume oil ? And how to prevent it?" in RU-vid. The Car Care Nut is his name. You may enjoy it! He's pretty smart too!
I have been an auto technician for 47 years. I have been telling people for years to change their oil and filters more often than the factory recommends. All the engine work I have done( like rings and bearings) were because of not changing the oil enough. Can't stress this enough.
But...... but the manufacturer wouldn’t lie to us.... right? It’s not like they want to sell us more cars after our brand new one dies due to a terrible maintenance schedule..
@@dddpvt I can't stand the guy - but he's not an idiot; he knows how to attract hundreds-of-thousands of RU-vid viewers by making outrageous claims, shouting and waving his arms like a chimp. As Mark Twain was once quoted: "Never underestimate the stupidity of the average American."
Yep, I live in Canada. My father was a mechanic in the 60s. He taught me to change oil just before the snow comes and just after it leaves. My 06 Tacoma is still going strong. Thanks for confirming what my father taught me.
hi I drive my 2011 scion to work. 50/50 Highway and local. 3600 mile a year. 0w20 named branded oil as manufacturer recommended. I change oil once a year for 3600mile. My engine should be no problem correct?
@@101yen Since new 0w20 is usually under the ILSAC GF-6A certification, that means higher standards are set for that oil compared to the last generation (GF-5) which I haven't yet seen a GF-6A oil that's conventional base stock. The interval at which you change it sounds great and beneficial to your engine, especially since it's such a thin oil that can lose it's viscosity from usage (mileage). I still believe that 6 months on-the-dot is a little overkill for newer oils as synthetic base stock keeps getting better over time which means additives and antioxidants are also improving and are more plentiful in oil. My recommendation for oil changes are max 1 year for most long-commuting drivers (people that run the engine for at least 15 minutes which removes moisture and activates some of the additives) or 8-9 months for short-commuting drivers that don't have the engine running for very long. As for mileage, I say no more than 5,500 miles on the oil. Which ever comes first though.
Excellent, excellent, excellent. I just bought a new Toyota Corolla hatchback and was told by the dealer you don't have to bring it back for an oil change until 10,000 miles. As soon as I heard the words I cringed. While I'm not a mechanic by any means I have been working on my cars for more than 40 years and have always tried to change my oil between 5 and 7000 miles for synthetic and 3 thousand miles for non-synthetic. Thank you so much for confirming what I always thought was right. Keep up the good work with your excellent Channel. It's gentleman like yourself that make RU-vid a excellent tool for the car enthusiast an average guy alike. My Compliments sir.
I just bought the new Corolla Cross Hybrid and specifically requested an oil change the first 500 miles. My local dealer didn’t hesitate to get it done. I’m planning on keeping my car for a long time.
Hello, I have been a Toyota Master Technician for about 30 years. I own a 2005 Toyota 4runner limited 4.7. I change the oil every 3000 miles. I now have 300,000 miles on it and it still running strong! I keep telling my customers the same things you are talking about and I wanted to say great job on the video 👍
I had a 2014 Accord Sport. I always changed my oil at 5K miles and only used Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil, thinking it would help keep my car's engine protected. I did this until recently when my car had reached 165,000 and I just started changing my oil every 3K. I only did this because of the bad oil consumption issue and the dealer recommended it. It was probably too late to make the change; the piston rings were probably wearing. The Honda dealer eliminated the valve seals since no oil was in the spark plugs or the wells. And it seems like all mechanics and dealerships stay away from changing out the piston rings, maybe out of laziness or lack of motivation. So lesson to learn. Even though Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil is rated at 10,000 mile oil change intervals, does not mean to do it with higher mileage vehicles. It's best to listen to the experts and mechanics when they say that after 70K miles, start changing your oil every 3K miles.
@@LouieGMDesign Changing out the piston rings takes you into engine rebuild territory, doesn't it? If I had the facilities -- I have the knowledge -- to drop the front clip and separate the transmission, I could do this myself, but in my experience this requires a hoist, which I just can't put in my residential house/garage. I've dreamed about it though :-)
My point is, nobody has been told about these rings, it's sneaky and unfair on people like me that are used to changing around 10,000 or every year in my case. I will never by a Toyota again.
Recently purchased a 22 Tacoma. At 5000 miles I took it to the dealer for its first complimentary oil change. The dealer refused. Said you don’t need to change till 10000. I told him I am in the severe driving category. After going back and forth with him I left and went to jiffy lube. Really like your channel. Keep up the good work.
My free oil changes for 21 4 Runner ended. They still call me in late 23 for service offering a $40 coupon for a full synthetic oil change, so I do it . A local Mobil station wants $100 for oil change on 4 Runner because it holds 6.5 quarts of oil. If I start my truck I warm it up fully, even for a short trip will drive till it's warmed up fully. That can take a while in cold temps with an aluminum block.
Hi AMD. I’ve been in the aviation maintenance industry since 1976. I’ve always done my own auto maintenance and felt like I knew quite a bit about maintaining my vehicles, but watching your videos has taught me many things. Your knowledge and expertise is a valuable resource for myself and countless others who want to maintain their vehicles. Thanks and God Bless you, your family, and the others who watch and learn from your videos.
I follow your advice. Change oil every 3000 or 6 months ... 1000 miles 1st oil change..not 10,000 miles. As with my so called free oil change which I paid for. Everyone tells me I'm doing to many oil changes. My response is, has any mechanic told you that your doing to many oil changes. I share your advice. Its cheaper to change oil then an engine. Thanks.. Appreciate your videos..
I changed the oil the first 500 miles, and will change it again another 1k miles, and again at 5k, and every 5k or 6 months thereafter. That’s my plan.
I've had my car for 12 years from new. I'd always changed the oil and filter every 5000 miles with mobil 3000 and OEM filter. The car now has 100000 miles on it, I just inspected the cylinders with an endoscope. Still has the cross hatching and very few faint vertical scoring. Listen to the guy, he knows what he's talking about.
Wow this man is a gem to all of us. I’ve been doing a lot of research, and I have a Jeep, not Toyota and the story seems to be the same there. Some of the problems they are having with the valves and camshaft stuff is because of insufficient maintenance, ie oil changes. The more research I do the more I am convinced that it is imperative we half the intervals from these manufacturers from 10,009 down to 5009. 4000 even… if you drive in extreme conditions. Thank you for your honesty… I know its kind of a conflict of interest, being that you work for Toyota, but this is stuff that is people need to know.
i have done a bit of full synthetic verses mineral oil testing to see if it save fuel , due to reduced friction , how ever over a 15,000 test in full syn then 15,000 in mineral i saw no diffence in the fuel cost it was bang on the same ,
Thanks for the video. I recently brought my new Toyota in to the dealership for the first 5,000 mile inspection and ended up leaving without them touching it as they only wanted to do a visual check of the fluids. I asked to have the oil changed and the service guy said he has 6 ASI? certifications and assured me I was wrong for not wanting to wait until 10,000 miles. After finally agreeing to change the oil, he said it would be nearly $100 plus tax so I said forget it. I've always changed my own oil and had it not been for the "free Toyota Care", I'd never have brought my truck in to the dealer and surely wont again.
as was mentioned in the clip above, damage slowly increases up until maybe the warranty runs out (with 10k mile intervals), but later the damage grows exponentially. So if you started out following the 10k interval recommendation, you can prettu much halt further degradation by going less than 5k/6 months when you get past 60k on odometer. Best to start this as early as possible, but not too late if you still don't burn much oil yet.
Your advice is solid and it's so much easier for us home car maintenance guys and gals to be changing the oil than to be changing an engine in the driveway.
This video has been very informative. I just had the engine replaced on my 2016 Acura TLX and it was burning an excessive amount of oil, no check engine light couldn’t figure out why it was ticking and losing power. When the engine died and I took it to the dealership I was told it was 1.3 Quarts low. $9100 later and now I’m checking that dipstick every week and changing it no longer than 6000 miles on Full Synthetic.
Salut je m'appelle Steven je suis moi-même mécanicien et je suis français et je tenais à t'applaudir pour la qualité de tes vidéos qui sont vraiment impressionnante. Du pur bonheur
Thank you for your honesty. It once again proves the point I have been making for 25 years and it applies to every engine, that the single most important thing you can do is keep your oil changed every 3 to 5,000 miles or once every 6 months or once per year if you don't drive 5,000 in a year. Oil is the life blood of an internal combustion engine. I would rather have an engine with 150k miles on it that had regular oil changes and maintenance than a 50k mile engine that has been neglected.
As a mechanic myself you are 100% correct , I’ve been saying the same thing to my clients , my rule has always been what ever the manufacturer says , half the service interval - no matter how good the driving style , oil is cheap compared to the other .
@@reocam8918 if your trips are very short - under 5 miles then I’d be changing oil every 6 months , no longer , if it’s in cold climate then every 3 months , engines not at operating temps for atleast 30 mins won’t remove the accumulated moisture it creates within the crank case , which is created each time the engine is cold , continuously gathering and mixing with the oil turning it to sludge , basically water in oil , if on the other hand your trips are 50 miles each time with only the odd short trip then 1 year is fine .
I have been using Mobil 1 full synthetic every 5,000 miles in my old 4Runner since it was new. It is now nearing 200,000 miles and still runs like new and does not use any oil. When I started driving, my dad taught me that the number one most important thing to make your car last is to change the oil frequently.
Same thing with me. I use Mobil 1 5-30w in my '97 4Runner. It's now at 398k miles. As measured by the dipstick.The dipstick shows less than 1/4" of oil use with a 5000 mile oil change interval. It used to be no oil usage at all when I was doing 7500 mile oil change interval. I had my oil tested to check up on it a few times and the oil was fine. So i continued with my oil change intervals. I've always used the severe driving condition as maintenance standard.
I am so thankful for your channel. I was crippled, broke and off work for a whole year and during that time I skipped my oil changes and one day I found the oil level was getting lower in my 2014 Scion tC. I knew about the 2AZ's burning oil so I put my finger up my tail pipe and it came out clean. Before I was injured I was obsessed with keeping the oil clean with about 3 oil changes per year and it never seemed to burn a drop. To get back on track I changed the oil and the plan is to run it for a couple of weeks and then change it again to flush out the old oil that couldn't be drained. I already bought a jug of Valvoline and a good filter for the next change. When I change the oil again in 2 weeks I'll run some cleaner through it first like you mentioned. I love my car and I don't like missing maintenance. Your channel is so informative and answers the questions I have that no one else does. Thank you!
@@beanteam2217 Im not saying that toyotas are crappy, Im just calling out the owners who claim Toyotas never break. I personally would have more respect for the brand if they had the cojones to build HD trucks. HD trucks do real work, and a lot of them last a looooong time when serviced properly. Its not the same same my Ford F-550 that weighs 20,000 and is driven in extreme desert enviroment, and say a Toyota Corolla that is driven casually or a Tacoma that is used as an “overlander”. Overlanders baby their vehicles. Like I said. Not knocking on toyota as being crappy, but unless they get pushed to the max we wont know exactly how strong they truly are
Possibly one of the best vids on oil maintenance out there. That 1 year minimum might be in the owners manual, but for low miles type rides, it ought to be noted as the most important: chemistry never sleeps, and blow-by [however little] just degrades oil over time. Nothing stops it really, and the grocery getters that never ever get up to temp are the most vulnerable.
I argue with people all the time about this issue. You nailed this. Totally agreed with what you say. I'll keep changing my oil at 3000-4000 miles. Never have any issue with any of my vehicle. Great content.
Im a very experienced tech, I change oil in my vehicles at 5K and have never had any oil related engine issues. One of my vehicles, a 2002 F150 has 190K miles has always had oil changed at 5k with valvoline 5w30 full synthetic and runs like new. Its when people start wanting 10K oil changes that people run into issues
I’ve always changed my oil on my Toyota’s at 5000 miles. Our 2006 Tacoma uses zero oil at 230,000 miles. You are spot on about changing the life blood ( OIL )at least no more than 5000 mile intervals. Thanks
@AMD First and foremost a big thankyou for all your educational contributions. That said I'm a licensed mechanic with 38 years experience mostly as a Chrysler dealer tech. I've worked on enough Mitsubishi low tension piston ring engines over the years like 2.6L I4 and 3.0L V6 engines to confirm that you are absolutely correct 100%. People lose sight of the time factor vs mileage and what constitutes severe service. As you say oil is cheap don't skimp it's cheap insurance twice a year regardless of miles simple. You get no argument out of me. Spent a lifetime working for Chrysler retired and bought a Toyota. Enough said. Please keep up the good work I certainly appreciate what your teaching me about my new Toyota knowing that not all dealer techs are as liberal with their knowledge as you are. Kudos.
Working for 12 years in a dealership as a technician and seeing things first hand brought me to the same conclusion - do your oil changes regularly, sooner than what the dealership tells you and your car engine will thank you.
Are you talking about miles or time? Bc I don't see what the issue with time is if you don't have the miles. Modern oils usually run very well and shouldn't cause an issue.
@@medini2 I agree. They overfill by a lot quite frequently and I always hate it. Last time they put some brownish oil in it that makes me wonder if it was even changed at all. Unfortunately I live in an apt and don't have that option.
I bought this corolla with 185 k mi on it, with history of accident and i knew the owner did not ever check his own oil. but this car has now 235k on it, and i am seriously attempting to keep it going. in today's economy i wouldn't take 3k for it. i don't want it overfilled with oil. @@potatopotato8360
Thanks a lot for such an honest concern for anyone who owns a Toyota car. Truly, the culprit while there is burning oil is the fact that owners fail to change oil regularly as prescribed by the technician. Now I know that when time comes that I acquire my own car, I would do what I have learned. God bless you always sir in all your undertakings.
I have worked on cars since 1980 and Ahmed is the best I have ever seen!! I hate going 5k on an oil change! That;s why I like to go 4K!! Mostly highway too!! I finally have a Toyota a new 2024 Rav 4 gas awd and plan on listening even more intently now! BTW this is my 2nd time watching this :) TYVM we are Blessed to have such honest people!!! God Bless!!
So cool for such a knowledgeable person to not be camera shy and willing to share that knowledge. I appreciate your generosity with your time and know-how.
You are 100% correct about t oil changes. I have owned over 50 cars with 0 engine issues by changing oil every 3500 miles. I like what you say, but I change that oil!
In the 1960-70’s mechanic Smokey Yunick wrote a column in Popular Science magazine. I’ll always remember what he wrote; “He who spends the most money on lubrication goes the furthest the cheapest.”
I have a paper back book that Smokey did on how to Hotrod a small block Chevy it had all the G.M. Parts # to build a 500 H.P. factory parts Hotrod motor and that was a big deal in the late sixties and early seventies with a naturally aspirated engine !!!
I remember Smokey. I thought it was Popular Mechanics. As a senior student I was School Librarian in our remote rural in the Australian outback. I got first dibs on all the good magazines, including these two. My other favourite was Scientific American. I have downloaded some archive copies of 60s magazines, and many happy memories. As a newly licenced driver, I took Smokey’s advice to heart, retrofitted seat belts, and drove with my lights on. Both item caused great consternation. Some drivers nearly drove off the road while frantically signalling to me that my lights were on. Now of course, seat belts and daytime running lights are the norm. Both have been shown to be very effective safety measures . I diagnosed a blocked breather hole in petrol cap of the school bus, based on a Smokey episode. Back in the day, lads were expected to become accomplished mechanics, capable of quite major procedures.
As a lead mechanic in fleet maintenance, you are so correct. I bought a 2022 Corolla because it has the 2ZR-FE 1.8L. It was a rental car well maintained 29k miles on it, I keep up Every 5k miles it gets an oil change, Mobile 1high quality oil and filter. I plan on keeping this car for yesrs to come. Thank you car care guy for all the great videos. You've made me rest assured that I made a good choice with Toyota👍💯
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. You explained why my son’s Acura started burning oil. He makes short trips. Luckily, we began 5000 mile oil changes as soon as we noticed oil consumption between changes. The Acura is now using about 1 quart between changes. Also, we use full synthetic oil. If you really want to know how your oil is performing, get an oil analysis by Blackstone. One more thing, if you have a turbo charged engine, you need to change the oil frequently because it breaks down, regardless whether it’s synthetic or not. That is when the Blackstone analysis is worth doing, also.
For sure with the turbos. My twin turbo starts to smell heavily like gasoline after a couple thousand miles. Super high compression and blowby. I change the oil every 3,000
You ,Buddy’ are the best most knowledgeable guy around. I’ve been cab driver for almost 40 years and I use to change oil at 3000 miles before synthetic and 5000 with synthetic and obviously have no burning problems lol!!!
Excellent advice. I bought a new 2021 Tundra w/ Toyo Guard that provides a couple of free oil/filter changes. At 5k miles and again at 10k, 15k I arranged for this service. Each time I walked up to Service counter I was told this service would be a full charge expense to me because I didn’t wait for the first 10k for the first oil change. I was calm but livid that after purchasing a vehicle over $50k they were the ones to determine the mileage qualifies for the free oil/filter, not what the customer believes is good for their vehicle. After instance and stating I am the one who will own this vehicle after 36k miles warranty, they agreed to provide the service as requested. Note, I also change my oil the first 800 - 1000 miles. I use Oem filter and 0-20 Mobile synthetic. I do this because engine blocks used to be, and probably today, are cast in sand. If not, I still do it because I am looking for initial engine break in with possible metal fragments that will be seen through the still clear oil.
My 2006 corolla has 400,000 miles on it. It uses very little oil, maybe a quart every 10,000 miles. Now I'm retired, more short distance travel. I will follow your advice and change my full synthetic oil every 6 months. Thank you for a great video.
I had a 1996 Grand Marquis. I changed the oil every six months regardless of the mileage because of stop and go driving to/from work. I sold the car when the a/c went out. Engine was perfect.
My uncle was a master mechanic for Toyota and he always told everyone in my family to change oil every 3000 miles 3500 max if you don’t want expensive problems. The ones who argued and didn’t listen were always having oil issues with their new cars I myself was one of them on my first car off the lot just doing what the dealership recommended and at 44000 miles I was burning 1.5 courts of oil every 5-6k miles. Sold my car to carmax and will do what my uncle said with my newer car lol. GREAT VIDEO!
@@davidwang2777 Not according to the Toyota and the Master Mechanic who is making this presentation. The oil becomes fuel diluted by leaking injectors after 6 months.
Every 3k 3.5k oil change is just same cost as the repair in the longterm :) even people says 5k oil change if toyota tells you 10k it is 10k i dont think so anybody knows better than Toyota himself
Great video. I own two Lexus hybrids. The first thing I did after watching one of your videos was to go out and inspect the battery cooling fans, and now I'm going to go change the oil on both and reduce my oil change intervals. Keep up the good work.
This video makes so much sense. My 2020 highlander states 10K oil changes, but my maintenance reminder comes on at 5K miles. Thank you, you probably just saved me a lot of trouble.
Oil is the life's blood of an engine. I've had/have 2 Camrys with the 2AR-FE and never believed the 10K interval. My '17 will never have oil consumption issues. Bet on it. Retired MDT here, I always told my customer's this and if you see an oil light flicker/on, check and get some oil NOW! That's like a heart attack warning! Good vid.
As a retired 30 year Toyota Technician!, 24 of which as an MDT... I couldn't agree with you more! I have performed over 50 oil consumption recalls on 2AZ's. I've owned several 2AZ's, 1ZZ's, 1MZ's and 3MZ's that have gone over 300,000 miles with no oil consumption! It's all about oil quality and change intervals. There were all serviced at 3,000 miles with Mobil1. Even 3MZ's with oil gel issues weren't a problem with proper maintenance schedules and quality oils. In the case of the 3MZ's I've been told by numerous Toyota FTS's and Product Engineers, that the gel issues they experienced were due to intentionally increased combustion temperatures to reduce NOX emissions! Your videos are largely spot on and you should be commended for keeping the public properly informed!!! As some others have commented Toyota has extended there service intervals to reflect lowered operating costs and reduce environmental impact.
I work in power plants running gas turbines, what’s odd is they told you high temps lowers NOX, that’s the opposite of what’s true. We lower our combustion temps in gas turbines, to lower NOx with water injection. So lower combustion temps means lower NOx, but higher CO. It’s a trade off but we have to monitor and tweak water injection for emissions in power plants.
I've helped a friend find a used MR2 Spyder because it is one of the few roadsters he can fit in. His requirements were: a convertible top and a 5sp manual transmission. It has the 1zz engine and I'm terrified of it beginning to burn oil. My name would be mud!
Excellent video, I check the oil on my cars and chage it when it gets to about half way black on the dip stick which is approximately every 3000-5000 miles. Always use full synthetic and only top up when the oil is somewhat translucent. Every car is different and sometimes driving habits change. I use trip B to log how many kilometers since previous oil change. My engines always start and run smooth Take care of your engine and the car will take care of you.
I use petroleum based oil in my 4cyl diesel and change it in January and July. My wife wondered if I was over doing things until I showed her this video. Now I'm the man!
@@tomquinn607and “conventional oil” is the industry name for the counterpart not petroleum oil. I work in the industry. It's ok to learn and be wrong sometimes.
Motor oil can be called full synthetic even if it has hardly any synthetic oil in it. Try to find out the percentage of PURE synthetic oil in any brand of "full synthetic" from any oil company. You will never find that information. Gee, I wonder why???
@@jimiguitar3252 sorry that's not true. It's about the base oil. Visit bobistheoilguy and educate yourself. You'll learn a lot on that site from engineers.
Thanks young fellah for the excellent honest advice - haven’t found anyone here in Australia that gives such a good review and simple explanation - after owning 10 Subarus I’ve bought a 2010 Hilux diesel 4WD and looking at a 2010 RAV4 as a run around - I only drive the Hilux once a fortnight (country town/highway driving) and keep to my recommended maintenance schedule especially oil but I did not know that because of my low kms I still need to change the oil on period first before kms - great prudent advice - enjoy your armchair conversation style 👍🏻 John in SA
I had 1997 camry original owner drove it for 385k miles did my oil change every 5k miles with synthetic mobile 1 it never burned oil or had to add oil. Still runs good end up donating the car after 20 years
This video saved the engine of a friend of mine. 2007 Camry I4, burning half a litre of oil every 5000 km. I told him to get some oil detergent additive, and after two oil changes, the car no longer burns oil at all!
You are such a wise man. Thank-you for helping everyone and breaking the facts down. I work in reman and re-sleeve, bore and hone blocks everyday. I see these scored walls everyday.
Reminds me of how I live my life , every 3 to 4 years but never longer than 5 years I change my wife. Yes it can be a little more expensive in the short term but it is doing wonders for my longevity. You are a treasure to the youtube community, keep up the good work.
EXCELLENT PRESENTATION, ON OIL CONSUMPTION, AND LOW TENSION PISTON RINGS, THE KEY IS OIL CHANGE INTERVALS.! I'M USING VALVOLINE RESTORE AND PROTECT, IN NISSAN TITAN 5.6 LITRE ENGINE, CHANGING AT 5, 000 MILES..! GREAT JOB PLEASE TAKE HIS ADVICE.! HE'S 💯 % RIGHT..! 👍💯
Thank you for this video! We just bought a 2023 Camry, and I was pleased with the notion of 10,000 mile oil changes. I now know we'll be keeping a 5K schedule. I really want this car to last after how expensive it was. Excellent video, very informative!
Do the CVT service too! Not sure what dealerships would charge, but I have a trusted transmission shop do it with Toyota fluid and parts for sbout $300. These CVTs have no dipstick & the procedure is a bit different than old school transmission filter service, but still should be done. There is also a "drain & fill" procedure where just one wuart can be swapped, without removing the pan, to keep the fluid clean.
@@walterherrera3733advertising to attract the lazy or cheap people. That 10k figure comes right from Toyota. Don't worry it'll get ya thru the warranty period!
Very interesting! You might also like the oil story about early Aston Martin DB5s. The sump was so small that at high prolonged speed almost all the oil was in the passages leaving a low sump that began sucking air. The book I read was the people in Italy that were driving at high speed and destroying engines under warranty was so frequent Austin Martin stopped answering their telephones!
I'm learning so much from you, sir. Thank you so much. I drive close to 500 miles a week; I'll be checking the oil level of my 2016 Mazda 6 at least every three weeks or every month from now on.
AMD. You know I love all the videos. This one was the most informative to me. Recently I sent you an email about my car. In your response you told me me you highly recommend me changing the oil though my mileage was low. I didn’t give it a second thought and changed the oil as prescribed. This video explained the reason why. I cannot thank you enough for this valuable information. I have a 19 Camry. I plan to keep it for awhile. I will change it every 6 months no matter the mileage. Oil and filter is cheaper than engine replacement or new car. I will share this video with my friends.
Been a mechanic for 20+ years and I never realized the time factor on oil changes being related to fuel contamination. I always just assumed it was due to moisture and acid. Good to know! Thanks!
Just a very serious engineering flaw that should embarrass ALL Toyota employees for life for letting this happen! I almost got sick from being behind a Buick Envision with a serious emissions problem, UNACCEPTABLE!!
You are 100% correct.....It is also amazing that most of these "Environmental Restrictions" end up in many cases causing more "Environmental Damage" if they have not been put in place in the first place. Gee, I wonder which causes more damage, Changing the oil a few extra times and causing more waste oil or going 10k and destroying the engine prematurely so I have to get a new engine or car? I wonder how much burned coal has to go into the air to make a new engine or car?
It’s BS. Every day there are thousands of aircraft fogging the entire planet. None of which have catalytic converters. Keep changing that oil. I’ve done it every 3000-4000 miles in every vehicle I’ve ever owned, and I’ve never had motor problems with any of them…any make.
You're very meticulous the way you explain your videos, you are highly knowledgeable regarding your work, and very honest in what you do and say. Great Job ! And God Bless!
greetings sir; i must say after i watched this video to the end, i was thoroughly impressed. you are a good teacher, easily understood and seemingly knowledgeable of that topic of discussion. i am a toyota owner/user that appreciates your tutorial. thank you much and may God bless you and yours..............g
Everytime I change my oil by months instead of miles I get lectured by my oil change “specialists” that there is no reason to do this no matter how long it’s been. Thank you so much for this valuable information and God bless.
I agree with everything you say. i'm old school and still get oil changes every three thousand miles. I've found that gives me the best chance of lower engine problems and longer engine life. Many people don't understand or follow through with that practice. Your videos are great. Keep making them . Thank You for the effort you put into the videos. I appreciate everything you do and say.
my Dad was a car mechanic,had his own shop: motor oil is the blood of the car(keep it clean so no plack builds up)change it before the manufactures recommendations
I will always continue to do to traditional 3000 mile oil changes. When I got my Associates Degree in Diesel Tech, my Professor told us that he did not trust the 5000 mile oil changes, because that is a long time to go with the old oil filter getting plugged up with metal shavings and eventually once it's full it lets the oil and metal bypass through the engine.
@@MyLifeThai371 Sorry, your professor is telling hogwash, unless you took that class 25 years ago. The "metal shavings" story applies only to some extend in brand new engines, where it is advisable to change the oil quickly after the first 1500 miles or so.Even then, modern new engines already have had a long "running cyclus" in the factory before they enter a brand new car. One reason why "special interest groups" want to keep the 3000 miles oil change alive is because of $$$. The only exception is in case of exceptional heavy duty work, like regularly towing a boat with your F250. Then a 3000 mile oil change makes sense
i have watched you for a long time. My dad had said the things about oil change that you do. So when I bought my Camry xle with 44000 miles on it i followed you. Oil change Radiator flush. Everything fresh in the car. Thank you so much. Great work.
Don't forget that those short trip generate a lot of condensation in the engine block too. So if they don't have extended drives that heat the engine and oil enough to "boil off" the water you contaminate the oil even faster. That is why when remove the oil fill cap you will find white/grey foam under the cap. Seen that too many times.
Yes, the shorter your trips, the more often you must change oil due to the water moisture and acidic combustion gases that get past rings and condense in the oil pan, using up the precious acid reduction additives in the oil. Short trips reduce the TBN or total base number of the oil, requiring oil change sooner to prevent oil degradation that leads to deposits in such areas as the ring grooves on the pistons. Longer trips heat the oil up enough to essentially boil off these contaminants and send them out the crankcase PCV system to be reburned in the engine before they use up the available TBN in the oil additive package.
First, I only watched this video because I couldn't believe there was a Toyota that suffered from oil consumption. Second, great job of explaining everything at a level that I think most people will easily understand. Third, you are ABSOLUTELY 100% correct. If you read all of the disqualifications, there are very few (almost NONE) driving conditions that allow the high mileage, long term oil changes. And yes, use good oil & an OEM filter. I have 4 domestic (3 Fords & 1 Chevy) vehicles with over 400,000 miles on the original engines. The one with the worst oil consumption loses 1 quart before the 3000-3500 mile oil change. Also, no matter how many miles you drive, NEVER go more than 6 months (3 in high humidity or changes in ambient temperatures ) between oil changes. The water vapor in the air mixes into the oil which will cause sludge build up in low concentrations to forming of corrosive acid in high concentration. Either case will obviously cause severe engine damage. Another no no is using real good oil with a cheap (including Fram) filter. Wal Mart stocks several OEM filters for under $5. Think about this, 5 quarts of Castrol & an OEM filter for less than $25.. Average cost to replace the engine runs around $5000 and will usually have about a week of down time. That means you can change the oil 200 times at an average loss of 30 minutes each, yielding a staggering 800,000 miles for the same $5000 at 4000 mile intervals $5,000/$25 =200. 200*4,000=800,000. This assumes that you have performed the labor yourself. If you spend $100 each oil change, you will still equate 50 oil changes or 200,000 miles per engine swap price.
Listen to this man, I have a 2014 Nissan Sentra and I drove it as an Uber driver, my Nissan now is 240K and I never skip a beat with my oil change, always bought a full synthetic every 5000 miles, it's amazing that my car is still working with just an alternator change engine and transmission is still original and that's a miracle knowing that I have a Nissan, my car survive because I'm strict when it comes to oil change.
Thanks so much for this information. I’d rather spend the time and money changing the oil every 3-5k miles or 6 months, than having to have my engine replaced.
my Subaru engine had a class act against it, funny though I change my oil religiously and follow the maintenance schedule precisely, but have had no issues for over 85000 miles, weird ;)
My '99 Acura TL(286,000 miles) doesn't use more than half a quart between 5000 mile changes. 0W-20 in winter, 5W-30 in the summer. I flush the oil pan with 8-10 ounces of kersosene at every oil change.
I've been working on vehicles for over 30 years & one thing I learned is the dirt, metal shavings etc. will never leave your engine untill the oil & filter are changed. These particles scratch cylinders plug ports & destroy engines, so if you use synthetic oil change ever 5,000 & conventional oil 3,000. He is right.
I'm sure you don't hear enough positive feedback. But I have to yell you, you are 110% on point. I'm a tech and shop owner for 38 years in the industry & I preach exactly what you said. You are an amazing young man preaching truth and with faith! May God bless you and your family! Even the ones that aren't religious on their oil changes. Keep up the good work!
I can’t help but think that 1 qt every 1200 miles is considered “normal” because they (not just Toyota but others as well) don’t want to have to pay for expensive warranty claims.
I just want to put this out everyone, I’m a big fan Scotty like most people in the comments section but AMD acknowledges and answers questions in the You Tube comments I don’t know how he finds the time but it’s great help and offers a lot to us viewers. Thank You AMD your a credit to Toyota.
I have a 2022 toyota corolla le, my first oil change was at 750 miles I now have 17,250 miles and 9 oil changes. Plus driving to San Diego ca. from orange park Florida and back. each time I had an oil change, the only issue I had was when the toyota dealer in san diego changed my oil they used 0/16w instead of 0/20w which the owners manual instructed me to do , the guy who called you crazy must really enjoy throwing his hard earned money away hopefully after he has to buy another vehicle he will listen to your words of wisdom and learn thank you for your most welcome videos.
While this is on a 35 year-old 3FE in my FJ62, I was losing about a quart every 3K miles. Fortunately it was collecting into my PCV catch can that I regularly had to empty, so it wasn't getting pumped through the intake to be burned in the engine and foul the plugs. A couple years ago I pulled the valve cover and hot tanked it, thoroughly clearing out the baffles and their drain holes on the inside. New valve cover gasket and bolt gaskets, put it back on, and now I only end up with an ounce or so of oil collected in my catch can every 3K miles, and no perceivable loss showing on the dipstick when I change the oil. Had I not added a catch can to keep my intake clean about 20 years ago, I would've gone nuts trying to find out where I was losing oil. Fortunately for the past 25 years or so I've religiously done oil changes every 3K miles and use Mobil 1 High Mileage, substituting a quart with Marvel Mystery Oil, and it comes out just barely darkened when I drain it. Granted this is a different scenario from those that you discuss, but for those trying to find out why they're losing oil, the PCV is something else to consider.
Go watch motor oil geek. MMO shouldn’t be put in your oil except to fix a problem and very short term. Lowering viscosity is a serious thing to do especially with no reason to do it. Motor oil geek thinks all motor oil additives are harmful. Only fuel additives are helpful and only ones containing PEA specifically. I’ve had very good results with MMO in the fuel though.
@@BeefNEggs057 I had actually had no problems using MMO with my Mobil 1 for about 15 years. Very shortly after my initial comment though I changed all my stuff out with AMSOIL and it's been great. Especially given that the motor oil I'm using has zinc in it which is better for the flat tappet cam that my engine has.
I'm an aircraft mechanic and I'm totally agree with you about your options about change oil after 5000 miles or 6 months. Any things you said all in the owner manual but not much people pay enough attention to read them all. I change oil before the winter and before the summer, twice a year and my car running like new.
Have only recently discovered you and am very impressed! Thank you for your factual, honest, experience-based presentations without mincing words! I am "old school" and am perplexed with these new engines; they don't make sense to me! You are helping me immensely to understand! (I don't like what I'm learning, but I prefer knowledge to ignorance.) Thank you SO MUCH!
RU-vid land is filled with car enthusiasts ceramic coating their ride with great love and I also saw some Mustang guys letting their car innocently go 15,000 miles with redline and amsoil oils. Bad idea. This video is a breath of fresh air. Thank you again AMD! Some day we will enjoy watching you debunk the lifetime transmission fluid!
BMW's have a sealed transmissions with lifetime fluid. My friend told me bunch of X5's getting transmissions repaired because their tranny's all blown. Once it passes warranty they can care less about your problem. Either repair it, junk, or trade it for a new car.
@@kimdavis5631 LED lights that last longer really are an improvement. And, automatic transmissions really do last longer. At one time, it was common rebuild the automatic trans in a car between 60K and 100K. Now it is common for them to go 150K to 200K. Of course, the labor to R&R the trans in a rear-wheel drive car was much less than modern front-wheel drive cars.
@@BryanTorok I wonder what the price difference is between regular vs LED headlight assembly replacement for Toyotas. The part costs close to $1500 per side for a BMW 2 series 🙂.
You are absolutely correct! I think a person such as yourself will find this very very interesting: I know a girl from Hong Kong who's father rebuilds 2AZ-FE engines for Toyota. He gets the engines free from Toyota Dealers in the USA, rebuilds them, and then they go into 07-09 cars which have the 2AZ-FE engine which failed Oil Consumption Tests. Since he works directly with Toyota, he found out some inside information... Every 07-09 car with the 2AZ engine had problems if they took their cars to a Jiffy/Quick lube who used 5W-30 for every car and waited 5K miles to change... Those 2AZ-FE engines had ZERO margins for thicker oil because of the few and small oil return holes in the piston, and the oil return ring being too small with little tension. The Toyota Dealers had a trick to prevent profit loss and engine replacement time... They put 1 cup of Seafoam in the crankcase, ran the car on idle 30 minutes, let it sit overnight, and then changed the oil with Mobil 1 5W-20 Synthetic. Many engines then passed the Oil Consumption Test after 1,200 miles... moreover, those engines didn't burn oil, or very little, thereafter if they ONLY changed oil at the dealer using 5W-20... The engines that were ultimately replaced had OVER 80,000 miles, oil changes at Quick Lubes using 5/10W-30, and they waited until 5K+ miles to change... Like you said, "Change oil often!" That is definitely the case with the 2AZ-FE engine, and NOTHING THICKER than 5W-20... So basically the 2AZ-FE is a GREAT engine and can last 500,000 miles+ if the oil is changed before 5,000 miles, and only with 5W-20... Thanks for your excellent videos...
I bought a 2008 Rav4 brand new. Maybe a year or two later, I noticed the engine is losing oil. I took it to the Toyota Dealership to check it out. They changed the oil and did whatever they do to check, and came back said,"nothing wrong with your car." I repeated this maybe 2 or 3 times, then I gave up. I just add new oil to the engine when I see the oil level is down to half. I kept up with the oil change every 3000-5000 miles. I never figured it out why and how. Thank you for solving my mystery!
This video is very informative and very well put together. Thank you for giving many drivers out there the engineering perspective of why and how to mitigate it. You’re an honest man. Thanks!
thank you so much for this important video 👍 i always change my oil every 5000km or 6 month because of so bad traffic jam here in my place. people often laugh at me but after watching this video im so happy, because i always do the right thing 😁
Thank you for such a detailed explanation, I bought a Toyota V 40 2.4 with a mileage of 84 thousand km, I don’t know how often the oil was changed in it, but after driving 5 thousand km I did not notice the oil burning, I changed it after 8 months with an escape of 5 thousand. Now I will try to do this in 6 months.
I drive a 2008 camry 2.4 engine with 150.000 miles i change my self the oil every 5000 miles it doesn't barns oil at all you said everything exactly how they are!! 👍👍
You're absolutely correct bro. Cars with higher milage but driven in the highway, the enginen is in a far better condition than the vehicle running around short distances in traffic with low mileage.
And, take five minutes and create a simple maintenance log/spreadsheet. It’ll help you NOW keeping track of everything maintenance wise and pay off big time when you go and sell the car. It’s pretty impressive when you can hand a prospective buyer the entire history.