do you have an online course that can be purchased? i love the way you have presented the many notes of the whole of perfumery, from the molecular structures to the patient processing of smelling to the careful composition of a personal accord, and on and on and on. it doesn't hurt that your voice is lovely on the ear. hope this comment finds you well! thank you for sharing all your knowledge!
Newbie question, if I am using a solvent that isn't alcohol (DPG, etc), can I use the same logic of shuffling around the solvent into it's own category to get my "alcohol?" Or are materials diluted in other solvents locked in at that dilution and I shouldn't assume that I can add them into the same group as alcohol diluted materials?
Hey Sam, do you find that there’s a significant difference in aroma chemicals that typically don’t have much of an aroma even in pure concentrated form like hedione, iso super or galaxolide when diluted down to 10% or so?
We yes, like I said at the start you'd never have the pure thing as a perfume so it's not a good reference point, 10x concentration differences generally do affect the smell
Thank you Sam, I was looking everywhere for this exact kind of explanation and couldn't find it. Very helpful for anyone doing trials with diluted RM and wanting to use a higher concentration in the final perfume.
Confused about 1 point but great video asides from that! You scaled everything X10, from 10% to 100%, and from 1% to 10% EXCEPT Isoamyl you kept at 1% and so wouldn't the formula NOT be totally proportionally correct because Isoamyl would be weaker in the end formula?...
Couldn't have come at a better time as I am finally looking into getting my first load of materials in to start learning materials and playing around with some basic perfumery. I had intended to dilute everything down to 10% or lower in order to not only learn them better as smelling them at a more realistic percentage, but also to make it all last longer so I can do more experimentation for less cost in material. So I assume that's not a crazy idea and is a valid way for me to work. Also would I be right in thinking that if you were to scale up everything after, and you're wanting to then make the smallest potential batch that's easy to measure out accurately, would I just be adjusting the total grams until my smallest ingredient is measurable to a tenth rather than a hundredth? Especially given that a single droplet of something could end up being 0.1g.
I saw a video of Roja Dove creating a perfume and he doesn't do all that, he just grabs the oils he want and make the perfume by counting drops and keeping notes of how many he use of each oil. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l6A5818skCM.html
So what do u do when the fragrant and/or essential oils dont blend or dissolve in the perfumers alcohol? (Its small particles of fragrant oils at the bottom) And why does that happen?
Can’t believe this came out today. Was working through dilutions of Cashmeran yesterday and musk blew up my lab. In my head I was like, gosh if I could just have a quick chat. And here you are :-)
Unfortunately i do not have access you your amazing apps! I have a question, all of my materials is 10% dilution. By the perfume im making, will be a parfum(25%). Shall i make my trials blend with a 25% diluted materials instead?
I wouldn’t do all 25%. The aldehydes and other super strong materials like Amber xtreme, ambrinol etc dilute to 2.5%. Instead of 10% to 1 %. Those materials still typically will be diluted to a 100+ to 1 ratio. So in a trial formula you would add the weight of 20-30 drops of ISO E at 25% and 1 drop of C-11 at 2.5% to still get a balanced ratio. If you had both at 25% you would need to have the weight of 100 + drops of iso e, to 1 c-11 to still maintain ratio.
@wib6044 I appreciate your reply, mate. Understand. However, the reason why i want to use 25% or all at 10% dilution is to allow me to calculate the final raw materials percentage in my final fomula easily. After 2 months of trying to make my own blend, 2 months of researching, literally everything is becoming harder and more complicated. Almost give up!
I see, I see. I just tried working through a way to do it, and naturally if you use 25% and 2.5%, those smaller dilutions would already add more alcohol, thus making your perfume less than 25%. You can use diluted materials just for trials, but why are you using them for final production? Once you have your trial worked out, add up actual raw material weight and multiply by how much you need to make your production amount. Even for trials I don’t understand how people are using all dilutions. The ratios would be to the extent your still using an amount you would if you have some of them raw. The ISO E or Bergamot or Hedione for example to aldehyde is 100 to 1. I use a pen paper and my phone calculator. I use both raw and diluted materials. If I have ten materials and say 3 of them are diluted Muscenone 10% .030g Aldehyde C12 mna 1% .020g Acetate C9 1% .030g Actual Raw material Muscenone .003g Aldehyde C12 mna .0002 Acetate C9 .0003g .0067g Alcohol Content Muscenone .027g Aldehyde C12 mna .0298g Acetate C9 .0297g .0865g alcohol So when I make my larger batches or 1-2 bottles, I figure out how much alcohol is in the diluted materials and subtract that from how much alcohol to use in the bottle. So if I make a 50ml at 25% I would have 12.5g of my formula to 37.5g of alcohol. If my formula has 3-4 diluted materials with .200g of total alcohol, I would only add 37.3g of alcohol to the bottle. -- I don’t make large trials either. 1-2g at the most, so I’m not running through a ton of product doing it this way.
Muchísimas gracias por todos tus vídeos. Descubrí tu canal hace poco pero para mí toda la información que compartes con nosotros es algo muy valioso. Con tus vídeos puedo aprender mucho más que con los cursos presenciales . Te deseo todo lo mejor! Saludos
Enjoyed and learned a lot! I hope the app is avail for andriod users as well. It is very convenient and I hope I could get to use it as well in making my perfumes. Thank you so much!
There’s option for me to “superchat” or send a “Thanks” to you… and no “buy me a coffee” link. That makes me sad. I want to send you something for teaching me math! 😢😢😢
That’s very kind of you! The only way to tip me right now is to purchase the free competition book at The Fragrance Foundry and leave a tip at checkout, however, there’s really no need, I’m more than happy providing the information for free!
Tldr you can use a mixture of dilutions and pure and make the maths work - it’s something I go over in more detail in my course, difficult for me to explain more than in this video via the comments section
I've always figured pre-dilutions will just give the ratios for your final composition, as when you'd compose the final perfume, it'd still be the same ratios but just scaled up.
Hey, Sam please can you make full video about 1) what is concentration and dilution, pre dilute. 2) and about how to calculate 10% 20%. We can't understand this video please make a full video. Like you make formulair app 3) And like we take hedione so we have to pre dilute so we take 1g hedione, 9g alcohol so it's make 10percent. So How can we make 5kg hedione to 10% make this video. Please sam I've watching your video from past 1 year and you're help a lot. please make this type of topic in one video.
Thank you for taking the time to explain the math behind it all - I have the Formulair app, but I still watched to the end to try to learn the logic, because I am one of those people who hasn't used math since high school....AND failed math class all through high school 😅
When i tried to dilute ambroxan crystals in EtOh, it simply wouldnt dilute, it kept benig crystalline, do you know why and how to make it dilute? 😂 Was 0.25g Ambrox and 1.7g EtOh, thanks!
Yea I tried diluting cedrol crystals 50% and it was milky white. Left it for a few hours and nothing changed. So I slowly added enough alcohol to make a 10% solution, and right at about 15- 20% it magically turned clear. Never tried anything more than 10% with Ambroxan and even at 10% cetalox and Ambroxan took several hours and vigorous shaking to fully dissolve for me.
Hi Sam. Would you ever be able to do a video at some point about how to read a formula or write a formula out of a thousand? I'm not sure how to interpret the numbers especially if I want to make a trial at say 5 g. Not sure how much material to use from the formula. Thanks
It means toilet water. It’s old and outdated but it is referred to the concentration level of the fragrance. Eau fraiche 3% Eau de cologne 2-5% Eau de toilette concentration levels range from 5-15% while eau de parfum 15-20% parfum 20-40%
Love your videos! I have a (hopefully not dumb) question. I’m just getting started and am currently looking at scales. I looked up the weight of a drop of ethyl alcohol and it’s apparently 0.039g. If a 0.001g scale is needed, is there a way to add raw materials in quantities smaller than 1 drop?
That’s actually really heavy, that must be a big pipette. I use a .5ml ml pipette and a single drop of alcohol weighs around .010g using these. Depending on the material, room temp, humidity it will vary. Thicker oils can weigh up too .025g, thinner .012. Using this same .5ml size.
But yea, just draw up less material. Don’t fill the dropper, then dispense one drop, and put the rest back. I can get as small as .003-.005g. By drawing up a minute amount. It will usually form a bubble and pop 😁.
Question, are you considering making your formula program available for Android/windows as well? I see you're only able to use it if you have apple products.
Hi Sam , Big fan of your work. Just wanted to ask one thing , can we use Reconstituted chemicals inplace of Natural Oils, have you tried experimenting with those? I was looking at ones at Firmenich
@@sammacer Yeah , For example I see this Fermenich Bergamot Indi and Some chemicals are labelled as Lemon Oil ( RCO) Rcos are reconstituted chemicals , I was wondering if they could provide better lasting due to being aromatic chemicals instead of EOs .
A very good video, thank you! You explain it really well. I do have a question/comment; why don't you make 1, 10 and 20% dilutions? Then you can use the 20% for the EDP final product. And with the 10 and 20% dilutions, don't you have a big difference in terms of how the fragrance turns out?
I have same question and what I came to think is that you will need to rework your formula to work from a 10% to a 20%. i think you should aim for a target concentration lets say, 20% and if you need to move from 20 to 23% or 17% it wont impact a lot the overall scent, but as you perform bigger changes lets say 10% to 23% the impact of different materials at different concentrations even keeping the proportions they wont smell the same.
You can use 20% and some perfumers do, I even do on occasion, but it’s more common to have raw materials not dissolving. Many EdTs are around 10% anyway and I prefer 10% for evaluations when learning raw materials
@@sammacer hello Sam, I think this point is really important to stress it out because, at least for me, it is the topic that is giving me more trouble understanding without doing any test (yet), like how 10% dilutions and proportions of those are related to a scaled formula with a 100% concentracion, i guess 10% diluted is just 100% plus 90% alcohol over the total amount used in grams, but if you select everything at 100% and keep same proportions and adjust quantity for a given target volume, for example from 10% to 20%, then the strength of some material will be stronger (they are more concentrated than a 10% dilution total, they are 20%) and thus it will be normal adjusting the final formula for the the changes in concentration. Like in 10% what needed to be 30 grams, in 100% concentration it might be 3 grams but since the strength of some ingredients should be taken in consideration maybe those 3 grams should be changed to 3.2 grams to adjust from the overall scent change. What are your thoughts/trials on this doubt? Thank you
Do you have a scale? If not, Ambroxan is safe and forgiving, so you could just put like a 1/4 teaspoon (a dime sized mound) in 30ml alcohol spray bottle. I wouldn’t mess with any other synthetics without a scale. Even then iso e and hedione at the most. I spent a year working with nothing but essential oils, then another year working with only Iso e hedione and a musk blend before moving on.
I don’t get any of this am going to throw all my materials out this numbers thing mashes my head up I can’t hack it sends me in a rage. Am out of this hobby
