WATCH BETTY'S SIDE: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZVFW7Zg-Ei8.html ⬇Affiliate links to help out the channel ⬇ Get the Magegee: geni.us/Magegee Keycaps: geni.us/sumgsn Switches: geni.us/LEOBOG Flex Seal: geni.us/A2WwDzx Press N Seal: geni.us/PressNSeal Dielectric Grease: geni.us/grease Get a better keyboard: www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v1-qmk-via-custom-mechanical-keyboard?ref=hipyo
Hey hipyo good day... can you gimme your best recommendations for atleast below 20-30dollar keyboards? Am just a student, but wanna have an affordable yet sturdy mechanical keyboard :(( please respond
Yeah, hard to win the challenge if your keyboard doesn't actually work lol. Still, both of them wound up sounding good after the mods you each did. Just goes to show that there is an entry point into the hobby for those of us who are poor and it isn't just all $100+ "budget" options.
@@donuts4dilla I just got a Yunzii B75 for $56 shipped, with a clipped and lubed stabilizer service ($52 without it but easily worth the extra 5er) and it sounds and feels incredible, compared to my previous GMMK Compact.
Thank you for using your thumb's Hipyo. Thank you Mr. Thumb. Written from my Zoom TKL with WS reds and Idbao blue cat keycaps. Thanks for the inspiration to get into the hobby, Hipyo!
I have the pro tkl 2023. I love it. Especially seeing my component temps on keyboard screen. I did swap out keycaps. Still looking for creamy switches that work for tkl
@@lutylives1852 Missing too many keys and still 7.7 ms latency. I've stopped caring about keyboards for the time being, market just ain't there yet for me. My current keyboard still does its job fine.
Guess if Madison made a press'n'seal mod, chances are good, that she will in fact see this video. I would be a real happy Eric, if Hipyo would mention me in a video, even if he's trying to get me and take revenge for a mod backfiring on him (even if he did it 200 times before and even invented it).
Just so people know, all akko switches work in thoose boards that are "only compatible with outemu switches". I myself have changed out the switches from my reddragon k552 kumara, whitch has the same hotswap socket, to akko jelly purple and It was a HUGE upgrade
I actually bought that keyboard last year, I bought it as a compromise. I really wanted to try a 65-67 key keyboard however I wasn't sure if it was for me, I thought I would regret it if I spend like $250 to build one and only dislike it. I've always used full sized keyboards so I decided I'm more willing to take a chance on a $20 keyboard than a $250 keyboard. I really liked the keyboard, thought it pinged a good bit, I really wanted to test mod it but I decided to save my patience, and sanity for my true keyboard..... spent like 4 hour lubing those switches. I ended up with a new drop alt for a great price, lubed switches, installed some stupid fish foam, greased all the stablizers, etc I did a bit and I'm very pleased with it. I still have that cheap old keyboard and I kept it in case one day I decided to actually mod it, I have some nice color shift paint.
Really fun video! Outemu does make some really nice switches, for example their silent Peach and Lime/Lemon switches are superb. They are smooth, quiet, and very light - I think you might like them. At worst it's really hard to argue against them at their sub-30$ price for 100+ switches. With Outemu or Mill-Max hotswap sockets you really need to be careful because they are so small. Poking holes through the press'n'seal with a needle before you insert switches might have made the mod work.
Outemu are TRASH switches. I tried a few cheap keyboards with outemu switches and without fail, the switches last about 2 months before they just start going out. I tried multiple keyboards with them and they all suck. Maybe I just have bad luck and just so happened to get multiple keyboards from multiple vendors all with the same terrible batch or something but I refuse to even entertain the idea of using them now.
I still recommend the Royal Kludge RK61 as the "entry level" board for anyone wanting to get into the hobby. Yes its twice the price as this one, but its also twice the quality. And sounds fantastic after a few mods. They also just released the RK61 Plus that comes prelubed WITH foam.
fun fact you can in fact put cherry mx style switches into outemu sockets! just be warned you do need to clip the 2 plastic pins and some older outemu hot swaps will not work. personally i put akko piano v3 into my redragon fizz keyboard also be warned there is a high switch failiure rate about 10% of the switches will not work when you first try it.
3:23 Lol he doesn't realize the redragon k616 fizz exists with the same exact color scheme, when I saw the thumbnail I actually thought it was the k616 fizz
Outemu socket usually only works with AKKO, Content or KTT, BSUN, Outemu, and the likes because their pins are small enough for those sockets. Other gateron style/cherry switches are not compatible. Forcing the switches will make the switches broken and thus make it not work. Aside from that, if you are gonna throw that keyboard away. Please send it to me. I am specializing to make poor people's keyboard good so that some of the very economical people here can still enjoy mechanical keyboard, even if it is crappy.
my mechanical keyboard only cost less than 20$ it's the aula f3261 and I tried the eva foam mod, tape mod and pe foam mod also I lube the stock switches and its sounds a bit better than the stock and I'm satisfied since I'm just a beginner in this hobby.
The Tes68 I got for $19. Has per key RGB LED, Hotswap sockets, USB-C cable for using it in wired mode if you want. And surprisingly also let you connect to 3 separate Bluetooth 5.1 devices, and 2.4ghz with a USB dongle that slides into a cut out in the bottom where the battery is at when you aren't using it. (Oh yeah and had several layers of removable silicone dampening, and a layer of foam between the top and bottom of the PCB and between the aluminum plate/PCB.)
Yet another awsome video!! Hey for a keyboard review you should do the RK61pro with a alluminum backplate. Its verry underated for the price of only $60. Hope you have an amazing rest of your day!
Magegee keyboard do have a big flaw. it appears those keyboards don't initialize until after the bios sequence is completed and the OS starts, that makes it virtually impossible to get into the BIOS at boot by pressing F2 or DEL. though there are other ways around it. i find that quite annoying.
Curious: How do these rivet sockets are only compatible with Outemu brand switches, could you not put any 3 pins there? I conveted(!) one of my old soldered keybord to hotswap with these rivet sockets back then, and used switches manufactured by Gateron. Also I had to bent pins a little for them to make contact. That was probably the reason the switches were not working. After bending the pins a little while applying, they all worked nicely for my case.
Hey, just wanted to thank you for your videos. I've always wanted a custom keyboard and because of your videos - I just bought Gateron ink black switches, lube and films. Will go through each one and lube them up. Will also do the tape mod with killmat. For my first keyboard, I'm just doing swappable switches, maybe for my second build - I will do some soldering. Again, thanks a lot for showing how it's done.
Ok this tip is only for hippio NOT BETTY! if you have bad stabilizers you can cut up a tiny pice of a bandaide and stick it on the stabilizer and just put the key on and it helps a lot.
I can testify and say that Outemu Purples are terrible. They come standard in the Redragon K550 and if it's your absolute first mechanical switch, it isn't good, but it's better than blues. I ended up destroying half of them trying to take them out of that board.
Yeah, being having a bit of trouble with them because of it (and I'm a writer lmao), but they sound so good after modding my cheap eyooso I don't plan on changing anytime soon (great for gaming tho)
Call me crazy, easy lube is a little WD-40 or if you wanna get REALLY crazy, lucas engine oil stabilizer (it's specifically designed to eliminate engine valve tick noise). The lucas engine oil stabilizer is thick. With 5 C's. Thick like molasses. Using a tiny bit helps dampen the travel and sound. Creates a deeper sound. Highly satisfying and easy to lube without taking the switches apart
I bought two Magegee keyboards when I was just getting started with mechanical keyboards... a TKL and this exact 65% and I gave them both away. Because gawd. Also because look where they put Home and End on the Fn layer. Drove me crazy. This would have been about the time you were recording this, and it was mostly attractive because it was cheap. And yeh those sleeved sockets are bad but not all Outemu switches are bad... the Outemu Silent Lemon tactile switch is really really nice. Completely un-thocky but that's what I like. Edit: I now have a Tester68 and even that's a better keyboard than the Magegee.
I still want to eventually see the idea I tweeted at you awhile ago, using one of those padded envelopes, the kind with the shallow bubblewrap inside the thick envelope paper, cut in half so that the bubbles are exposed, under a PCB. It should at least act similar to gasketing and tape mod, though now I also wonder if the bubblewrap-like material, assuming it doesn't pop, also has qualities similar to the press-n-seal. On top of some filler, like kinetic sand or silicone, it should sound decent. A strip of the paper-backed-bubblewrap might also work as a top gasket, at least around the perimeter and dead areas. At like $1/$1.25 for a two pack at a dollar store, this might be one of the most cost-effective solutions, especially if it covers the qualities of multiple mods with minimal waste. The only thing further than this would be using a glue stick just to make sure the paper side sticks to the PCB.
Just cut the stupid pointless plastic nub legs. They dont even do anything. What do u think will happen of u hack off some plastic to get it out of the way? It'll stop the metal contact from workin? Of course not lol
@@jetlyfe12 I think it's less a question of it working and more about all the extra time and effort that takes to snip off the extra pins on 60-100 switches.
I'm kind of quesioning a bit the true benefit of modding a keyboard for a better sound profile when two times in a row I see a keyboard get modded for a better sound profile and end up not working at all I'm still watching the content tough
I like the subtle looks. Did you ever figure out why it didn't work? I'm honestly curious. And what would you recommend to quiet up a corsair k100 optical switch keyboard. It's like crazy loud. It's brand new so I'm leery on taking it apart all willy nilly.
Thank you Mr. Thumb; I would also like to recommend one of those metal things you put your thumb into while sowing and it protects it for the most part.
6:48 No, it's not "dampening", it's "damping". Dampening comes from dampen, which is to make something damp, or moist. Damping is to damp something, to make it ring/ping less.
Dampen ALSO means “to make less strong or intense”. So “dampen the sound” simply means to reduce the intensity of the noise. “Damping” applies to the physics of sound, to “reduce the amplitude of vibrations”. Bottom line, in informal speech, EITHER is fine.
Hippyo, I want you to challenge Betty to make the best sounding keyboard, but there’s a catch, you have to use Cherry MX Blue Clicky switches. Good luck😊
