A great way to counter this is to become intimate with the brake feel and performance of your bike. Being able to brake on the cusp of the abs system (just before the system activates) is ridiculously handier than most might think.
Really You should do a shootout yes if you lock it up you can't control however maybe she'll look at a real race bike race car my favorite shootout is when they did this one the power TV show 1965 Cobra in the newer cobra what's the tape closely well not so close the old Cobra stopped way faster but went a little sideways too much brake pedal the driver didn't know enough to let up a little bit used to be a skill in driving Originally developed for aircraft carriers they found is 10% or so longer but they had control look it up
Well done Ari Taking all that set up time to show different scenarios for a couple seconds of screen time, when it took hours to stage...we notice my man. We notice.
Seriously! Ari and the guys took an entire front wheel off, flipped it around, only to show the Tone Ring being on the opposite side of the wheel for 8-9 seconds of screen time? That's incredible.
When you mentioned putting wheel other way around...I laugh out loud.... Then I thought about my abs light coming up very short after replacing both tyres. I went to check and I DID the same - I've put front wheel other way around. I ride 2-3 months with light on. I can't believe how easy fix that was and how stupid mistake I've made as well. Big THANK YOU!!! 🤩🤩🤩
Ari, I love your videos I've been watching since MM. I would very much enjoy a series of more indepth tasks like rebuilding an engine or rebuilding the brakes or maybe about tuning (I know you won't give away your CBR 250 secrets). I know these are kinda hard because it's different for every bike but given your knowledge and remembering the picture of your dad rebuilding that engine in the living room on the ground, I know you could tell and teach so much more. I yearn for more indepth content.
Ari you forgot the classic "I wrecked my bike, ordered a new instrument cluster and installed it, now my ABS light won't go off. But then realized that you don't actually have ABS and the toner ring on the rear wheel is just for wheel speed but looks identical to the ABS version, which is a completely separate cluster" happens to everybody I swear.
Thanks as always Ari for sharing your wisdom and educating us!!! Another great video!!! I only wish these segments were a bit longer and went into more depth for us beginners. A video that is 15-25 minutes long is a rare thing on RU-vid these days unfortunately. Must be a stupid algorithm thing with RU-vid.
Very good I had a trickie one I had a FJR 1300 and changed the brake light globes ,it ran fine for about 200km then the ABS light would stay on I discovered that the LED globes draw less current so the system thought I had a blown globe ,put standard globes back fixed my man made issue Very smart of you Mr Yamaha!
Another hardware related one for Harley is the tone ring 8s part of the wheel bearing. Sometimes folks will buy the Non-ABS bearing without realizing it.
Let me add one more thing. This personally happened to me. I've got an XSR900, an older model of that bike. I had my tires changed by a shop. When I got it back, ABS light was solid and it keeps on cutting power. Turns out, the shop actually damaged the sensor, probably while re-installing the tire, had to replace the sensor completely. Alternatively, while waiting for the part, I had to set Traction Control to off so I could ride the bike like normal.
'13 ZX-6R with ABS. I was at a track day and was doing a quick tire change. And, flipped the front tire. I went to pull out of the pits and both the ABS and traction control lights went off. Also, if you're doing a tire swap, remove the ABS sensor from its mounting point. You can damage the sensor if you get ham-handed removing or installing the wheel. Ask me how I know...
As usual, another super informative segment (especially the ABS morse code thing - very cool to know) - thanks Ari! Related to this, I discovered a crazy thing on my Tenere (that everyone in the T7 group tells me is impossible) but I think would be an awesome "bike myth" for you and Zach to test: Can engine braking trigger your ABS system??? I am 100% sure it can (based on my own experience), but it would be a fun thing to see proven (or disproven) by you guys. Hear me out: The T7 has super aggressive engine braking - in the dirt (with ABS disabled), it's awesome - especially for backing the rear end in around gravelly, down hill turns. But on the street? If you engine brake too aggressively, it will lock the rear wheel up - like instantly. On the street you will have your ABS enabled (presumably) and how does ABS work? (You said it yourself in this segment) - it works on magnetized sensors and wheel spin. Sooooo - if you engine brake too hard on the T7 and lock up the back wheel, what happens? The rear brake pedal starts vibrating as the ABS kicks on! At first I thought I was hallucinating, but yeah, I have done it about a half dozen times now and I am 100% sure this is what is happening (despite being heckled in the T7 forums, lol).
Thanks for this Ari. I’m a new rider and thought something was wrong when the ABS light came on at the start. And thank you for teaching me why the light is even there.
I love these videos and watched all of them. In addition to learning about motorcycles and wrenching, I also realized that I don't have a go-to unboxing knife. I bought one from Kershaw, and now my life is complete. True story🙂.
Have an R7, abs is much better than it was on my MT07 but I'll still be ripping it out eventually and replacing it with a steel braided line that doesn't go all the way to the abs thingy
After changing my front brake pads and discs, I forgot the tone ringer and my abs was on ever since. I couldn't figure out what the problem was. I knew nothing about the tone ringer, I thought it was there for fashion. Thank you very much for clearing that up...
I had a Hero 200S that had single channel ABS only in the front. About 3 weeks after buying the bike brand new I saw the ABs light was on while I was riding. I figured it had a minor issue so I turn the key off "while holding the clutch lever of course". I was testing to see if it would reset the error code and it did. It happened about 3 more time while owning the bike for about 10 months, and I always do that same procedure. Seeing that it was the first time Hero put ABS on any of their bikes I did not bother to go to the dealer. It was so minor and an easy fix.
When checking fuses that are installed, it's best to not use the continuity feature, but instead perform a resistance check for low ohm reading. You could still get a false good indication with a blown fuse installed when performing a continuity test. Best way to accurately check fuses is to remove the fuse, visually check and/or perform a resistance reading. With the fuse removed, you can isolate the fuse as an issue.
Brilliant video! I just consulted the manual for my 2006 NT700 Deauville (my third of these!!) as the ABS light is constantly flashing no codes, just constant. It used to be just when I went over a big bump, but now it's constant, so I checked the front as it was easiest to get off and thee was a bit of corrosion and crap on it, so I cleaned it up and put it back in. I checked the fuses and they're all ok. Now the biggest problem is I don't have a ramp and have to lay on the ground to try and access the rear. Manual probably says to remove the exhaust and rear wheel to gain access. I got the bolts out, but now can't get them back in!!!🤬🤣 Annoying or what! I sprayed with WD40 and I'lll leave til the morning when I'll get a proper mechanic to do it for me.
My older BMW motorcycle had the issue that the light stayed lit when the battery wasn't almost new and fully charged. Apparently the starter brought down the voltage enough to lock up the ABS electronics. This was a known issue and you ended up buying new batteries frequently.
The absolute nightmare is the cbr1000 rr mark SC59. The ABS will constantly message system error warnings. That bike absolutely took my pleasure of riding motorcycles.
I think a complete teardown and rebuild of something like a DR-Z400SM would be really cool. I didn't recently buy one that needs some TLC or anything like that...
I've recently had this issue and turns out that the cause was the fact that I removed the front fender and left the wires dangling relatively free. As soon as I fixed them in place, the problem disappeared.
There is so much drama on ABS bikes. My recommendation therefore if you are planning to buy a new bike: get a Non-ABS bike. You avoid loads of drama. The thing is, you cannot compare a car ABS with a motorcycle ABS. The complexity of motorcycle physics is massive. Therefore it is almost impossible to let the ABS do its job. There is absolutely no reason to have ABS on a motorcycle, since almost nobody rides on icy roads. It only takes some practice to get the feeling for the front brake.
On my FZ6 it was a battery terminal. An alarm system that I hard-mounted didn't have the highest quality connectors and made the connection to the batery a bit unstable hehe
my abs height has been on for 3 months now and I when I took notice... I check the fuses, check the L bracket sensors in case they were dirty and the wires to see if they were damaged and the speed sensor. they all checked out to be fine so I went on to hold the buttons on my cluster and she didn't spit out a single code nor gave me any abs blinks. it can't be the abs pump! no way because it's only 3 years old.
Old BMW (Hex head) have some issues with the ABS pump, usually dirt in the motor or a solenoid, it did to my GS, but was intermittent, just use the rear brake pedal also and it shoul be avoided most of the time, was looking to fix the issues (2000 euro for a brand new pump from BMW) but i find a company in UK wich will rebuld the thing for about 400 euro (including shipping wich is crazy expensive in italy) one week turn around time and lifetime guarantee! So the message is don't despair!
Before I knew there was an ABS fuse, I did what Ari did: let the bike on center stand, run in gear to let the ABS freaks out and die. I now yank it off when dealing with off road. Thanks Ari for reminding me that embarrassing moment of mine XD
It's probably been mentioned but a low battery causes problems. My old R1200C will just continue to blink when the battery - even freshly charged - just isn't up to the task.
I tipped over standing still and after that the abs light is on. What could have happened, it was very slow, my passenger got off at an angle, leaving the bikes weighing leaning on me, had side box on so it did not tip over far
It's good to know that at least with bikes the ABS light indicates an issue with the actual ABS, not like with cars where the ABS light can illuminate when there is something wrong with a completely unrelated system ie. catalytic converter.
One day my ABS light just randomly turned on and I thought the sensor was broken. Turned out, the ABS ring was just filled with road grime so the sensor couldn´t get a reading. Cleaned it and it never came on again😅
I have a very weird problem with my friend’s Royal Enfield Interceptor 650. His dog chewed the Front ABS wire and I soldered back, but it didn’t work. Then I replaced the front ABS sensor after a month. Now the ABS light comes on after 15-20 miles of riding. If you cycle the key, it disappears but it comes back after every 15-20 miles of riding.
I got the same issue my bmw s1000rr 2021 was on paddock & i was shifted the gear & hit the rear brakes , & abs light stay on , is there anyway to fix that? Thanks
Take love from Bangladesh, My question : my front breaks get spongy, can it happend for faulty ABS? Abs lights are ok and it turns off after few seconds of running. What i did already: bleed the existing fluid and pour new dot four, but sponginess still there.
And once a friend accidentally switched off the ABS on my GSA and had my head scratching for a solution that I could just switch it back on... Lolz. Could be a 1st thing to check 👍
I have a 2015 blade, had tobput in a small braided line to fit rear sets that raised the master cylinder, I bled the system 7 out of 8 nipples (8 requires rad removal). Now if i go out on the bike, turn it off and back on again in a short period its like the abs is permanently activated and the lever comes right back. Very disconcerting. It sorts itself out after a few minutes but it's not nice.
I have a piaggio liberty 150 and the ABS warning light comes on and blinks every time it stops. the warning code it that the front sensor is not being read. The manual says thats normal. I find that a funny oversight
I m facing an abs issue in my fz1 2012 when I connected the jumper to the abs test couple and held both brakes n the switch turned on the front break pressure loose and and pump does not actuate and light just stay on
Just had my front tyre replaced and I've got an intermittent abs light, usually comes on at low speed braking. I've check and cleaned fuse/terminals and all ok. I've noticed however my tone ring has a bend in it, could this cause an intermittent fault as its approximately one 'window' bend.
You saw that, eh? I used my thumbnail to work at a piece of sap that was stuck on there. Really surprised it scratched the surface like that. Lesson learned.
We are aware of this issue and deleting them as they come up. Unfortunately there is no long-term solution since it is a RU-vid-wide spam issue. Thanks for the heads up though.
Hi Ari and fellow riders, maybe you guys can help me to find my issue. Occasionally while riding when I pull the clutch and shift the engine stalls, after that while still rolling forward if I pull and drop the clutch several times the engine starts again and running normally. What can cause such an issue? The bike is 2018 Kawasaki Z900 RS, 21 thousand km on the odometer (13k miles).
@@Ringer1982 Allowing you to start the bike when it's in gear is the clutch switch's primary purpose, yeah, I just like to check the simple stuff first! I had a similar issue on a bike that had a leaking idle control valve, but it only happened when downshifting from high rpm. I'd need more info about the scenario to help steer you in the right direction.
@@AriH211 These are couple of scenarious. 1. Starting normally from the traffic light in first gear, pressing the clutch, shifting to second - stall. 2. Leaving a roundabout in second gear, accelerating, pressing the clutch, shifting to third - stall. It only stalls when shifting. Than, in both scenarious, while still rolling forward I pressed and released the clutch several times and the engine started.
So, if wheelies cause the ABS light to illuminate and stay on, we now know that Zach's ABS light is on 99.5% of the time, since his front wheel immediately goes airborne the second he leaves his driveway and hits the street.
0:50 that not entirely true. It will always be on below a certain speed and it does NOT indicate a problem. Most ABS on bikes are automatically turned OFF below around 5-10km/h. This is because ABS engages the brakes HARD at first, then eases off. But at low speeds, you want the manual ability to engage SOFT first, to avoid tipping over. I dont even have a bike yet and i know this.
It will be on when you begin rolling, but of the hundreds of ABS-equipped bikes I've ridden, none of them have an ABS light that comes on once you slow to a certain speed. On top of that, the speed threshold and duration are different for different bikes. That XSR runs its diagnosis very quickly and at a surprisingly low speed.
