Very helpful. I have this exact unit in a rental and the tenants complained that things were freezing on the top two shelves. I actually pointed to the sticker in the back and rearranged the food. I will tell them to adjust the freezer if it keeps up.
I have a 3 yer old Kenmore upright convertible refreezer/refrigerator. I have never used it as a freezer, just cold drinks thank goodness . It was set at the medium setting but opened up yesteray and everything frozen and busted, cleaned it all up unlugged for 12 hours put some water and booze back in and set to a little lowerr on th refrigerator settin, still froze, now I have it at the lowest setting but not sure what will happen now.??
Sounds like something may have actually broken possibly. Most modern fridges are just a fan blower, louvre and temp sensor. If a sensor or the louvre break it can allow too much cold air to leak in. But hard to say.
The older Frigidaire fridge in the house I’m renting is freezing ALL the food in the fridge, not just food in the back of the top shelf. It’s the older fridge style with freezer door on top, fridge door under that (Frigidaire model FRT18DRH). Would your advice here still apply?
Well it is possible. But if it is older then it could be an actual failed part. There is basically a thermostat controlled valve and fan that open between the compartments. If that temperature probe, valve or the control circuit fail then it could cause this also. If you have a couple thermometers in the fridge, in various places, and they are all colder than thermostat is set to, then it is more than likely a failed or frozen part. Me personally, I think I would reach out to the rental company in this case. But it could honestly be either one.
Update: So I took your advice and asked rental company for help. They sent an appliance company over and sure enough it’s too expensive to be worth repairing. I wish I could remember what 2 significant things he said were wrong with it (sorry!), but they rendered it not worth fixing. So the new fridge gets delivered Tuesday. ☺️
I have a old Maytag Performa purchased in 2000, it is doing the same thing freezing my food. I’ve tried adjusting the thermostats for the freezer and the refrigerator compartment. However, I’m not having any luck. Any other suggestions, For a analog thermostat?
So how do i go about determining if i have a damper problem? I have this same model and the whole left side freezes in the fridge. It was not like that last year so i feel that something has changed.
That is a little complicated. One possibility is that the ice maker water line that is in the fridge could be freezing up. If you have the coiled water line in the bottom, check to see if it is frozen. In this case it could be something broken and might be a good idea to get a repair person to take a look.
Kind of. There us an air filter at the top where the cold air comes in. But the I think the air only blows through it via three small holes in the Styrofoam block. So it doesn't work like a furnace filter. Just gently pulls small amounts of air through it.
We have the similar model, Bottom half of refer and freezer freeze everything. Top half does not cool. Noticed there is no air filter on the refer side just a foam block.
Ours didn't come with an air filter - we had to purchase that. Pretty cheap on Amazon. There might be some alternative options, but this is the version we purchased. 🔗3 Pack Air Filter amzn.to/3aNgnP1 (affiliate) -- if I remember correctly, you'll remove the foam block and put in an air filter. Hope that helps.
I'm in a totally different situation with a 25 year old top mounted freezer. One of the parts might be defective and need to be replaced causing the refrigerator bottom part, to be too cold as the dial is set to less than 1, the least cold setting.
I have a KitchenAid combo 12 yrs old, set at 37/0 F. Until now, no issues. Today I noticed the fridge is freezing all food inside. The panel shows the actual temp was 35/-2 F and the Max Cool indicator was on, without anybody turning it on. I reset it for 10 min., everything OK until the Max Cool indicator turned on by itself again and then the temp. decreased to 35/-2 F. What is happening? Thank you!
I am certainly not a certified repair tech and It is hard to diagnose remotely so take this advice with a grain of salt. But in this case it sounds to me like the main control board has likely failed. Or the button that enables max cool itself. But this button is also likely part of that main control board. I could certainly be wrong, but if I were going to 'throw money at it' I would likely order the main control board first.
This is valid only for very old fridges like 20years ++. The new models have a separate part of the evaporator coil inside the fridge and another in the freezer. But there's again usually only one thermostat and the difference between the 2 zones is probably controlled via that fan. So probably your advice is applicable. I don't have that fan so I don't know this for sure, my fridge has 1 thermostat and no fans.
High end models have the dual evaporator system. This fridge, however, and most of the ones in the $2500 range, all use a single evaporator system. If you check the repair manuals you will see this. They are available on the Whirlpool site. As an example, Page 20: www.whirlpool.com/content/dam/global/documents/202305/repair-parts-list-w11678302-reva.pdf Also mentioned on page 2 where it specifies only certain models are dual-evap: www.whirlpool.com/content/dam/global/documents/202106/tech-sheet-w11520533-reva.pdf
@@TheProjectHelpDesk Yes it does indeed.Quite curios then how does it manage to maintain 2 different temps . I suppose it controls the flow of air somehow. Anyway, mine gets cold (and ice) both on its back (inside) and in the freezer compartment and has no fan. Not from the manufacturer anyway :D.Thanks for the effort of locating those manuals.Zanussi doesn't bother with doing that as far as I have..searched.
I know nothing about that model/brand unfortunately. It 'could' be a bad temp sensor. That is the only thing that seems to make sense in that situation. Or possibly a bad baffle that is staying open.
To my knowledge, the range can't be changed beyond that factory setting. If it can then I do not know how. This could be a case where something has actually failed if you are still having an issue.
So I've got a Frigidaire side by side fridge freezer. The unit was freezing the refrigerator size but reading like 86 or something. I replaced the temperature sensor on the fridge side. The old one was burnt and now the unit isn't getting cold at all after plugging back in. Any suggestions?
I don't know if I have any 'good' suggestions in that case. The best advice I would have is to look at the schematics or parts lists to get a good idea of all the components involved. If a temp sensor was fried then maybe something also fried the central control board as well. I would also check to find out how to put the fridge in diag mode. You do it similar to how video games work with certain push button sequences. I do not have a lot of experience in that area I am afraid.
I also have an older fridge with the nob just in the fridge i have it set to colder which is in the middle of the 3 options and then my freezer isnt frezzing things on the door (only the tings on the door isnt freezing please help
Unfortunately I can't think of anything useful in that situation. As they get older, the door gaskets can wear out. Maybe warm air is seeping in that way?
i have a whirlpool top freezer refrigerator and the last few days when i close the freezer door i hear a sound that sounds kind of like a blowing sound and i am trying to find out if this is normal or could be a problem..the refrigerator is still cooling ..it is an old refrigerator it was bought 18 years ago..i cannot find anywhere else to ask..so if anyone can help i would be very grateful
I "think" that some fridges do a small suction event to ensure it seals the door shut. I may he 100% wrong though. Just my observations. So if the gasket isn't flush an sealing that would run longer. But in this case I am not an answer.
Our fridge is. GE and has a digital display. We were gone for a month & had two power outages. When we returned we noticed our top shelf was not as cold & our cheese drawer was freezing everything in it with frost in the back. We did unplug it and plugged it back in. Please help
So this one is tricky. And I do not know about your model unfortunately. But here are some thoughts. Electronic devices do not like powercycling. Most 'failures' occur during powerup. So when something stops working during power spikes and brownouts, and a powercycle doesn't fix it, it is very often an actually failed part. And my gut feeling is that this might be the case. Aside from that, almost every fridge functions in a similar manner. a compressor moves a refrigerant between two coils to pull heat out of your freezer. And fans and gates slowly blow that freezer air into the fridge as needed to regulate the temp on that side. Some of them even have special setups to deliver air directly to the drawers. But either way they use a combinations of fans and valve doors to direct that air. If one of those fails then cold air can leak in when it shouldn't or not come in when it should. If I were forced to bet a paycheck I would say it is either a control board or control gate that failed during those power outages. But this is just a total guess. In this case, hiring a pro repair person or getting someone local who can get the system into self check mode might be the best option. Oterwise you could make things worse or spend unneeded money trying things. Sorry for not having a better answer.
One additional side note, these systems are designed to work on air density. Cold air comes in and sinks to the bottom. Pushing warmer air up top to be cycled back through the freezer. Anything that interrupts this, can cause the cold air to dam up at the bottom. Also, fridges do not like to be empty. They work much more consistently when items are inside.
That one is trickier. Cold air sinks, so naturally the coldest air coming in migrates to the bottom. If it isn't a case of air flow being restricted in some way then I would check the temp settings and maybe get it looked at professionally.
I have the same one..motor went out when it was 6 mouths..they replaced the motor now 4 days later every thing in the refrigerator is frozen soild..going to contact the repair company and see if they going to fix it
My vegetables are freezing in my french door whirlpool refrigerator I lower it from 37 to 36 and got worse. Today I moved it to 40, not sure if I should go up or down and I also umplugged it for 5 minutes to reset the computer today. I will wait 24 hours to see if that help. I need suggestions before I call someone to look at it.
This was listed in our held for review so didn't see it until now. Hopefully this has been sorted out for you, but french doors are built differently than a side by side so unsure witjout personal experience.
That isn't a lot of data to go on, but it sounds like your 'Door Open' led is illuminated. If you are seeing this when the door is indeed closed, then something is likely broken. Make sure nothing is blocking your doors from closing completely. I would also unplug the system for a couple minutes to make sure it isn't a transient error. After that it is likely either a failed door switch or the control panel that the switch connects to. Also check the wires at the bottom of the door and make sure nothing is frayed or binding. In this case, hiring a professional repair person is likely the best answer.
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rMHwlZ_5Gak.html here is a new video we published about all of the lights on the control panel and how fo adjust temp too
I had an ice maker replaced in my fridge a month ago and after the new one was installed, my fridge became too cold and items are freezing. Temp is set at 38 for the side by side fridge and 0 for the bottom freezer. What to do?
Depending on the exact model, it makes me wonder if they had to disassemble the air 'valve' that goes between the two and maybe something isn't quite right after it went back together? Basically there is a thermostat controlled fan and check valve that blows from the freezer to the fridge. They can go bad or get blocked. It is the only thing that pops into mind as a possibility.
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That one is tricky. Cold air sinks. So if the air can flow in a circular pattern the cold air can build up in the bottom. That could be any combination of things. Fridge or freezer temp change setting could help. Or improving air flow top to bottom. Could even be something broken.
The supply line that connects to the supply spout that allows water to flow into the tray keeps freezing up , I can us blow dryer to melt the ice in the tube and the ice maker works for about 6 hrs and the line re freezes. And no ice. Any idea thanks
We personally have not had that issue with ours. Only two thoughts come to mind. The freezer/fridge temp is colder than normal or the room temperature is colder than normal. If the unit had been disassembled then it is possible that a water line had been rerouted incorrectly and was inside the cold zone. There really isn't a lot of science involved that could cause something. And the primary thing is that the temps are colder than normal at some part. Meaning that the system is designed to sit in a climate controlled room and a certain amount of heat will leak in to moderate things. So if the water or air that surrounds any part is colder than it expects then things can happen. Other than that, I can't really think of anything.
@@TheProjectHelpDesk it is very strange, it just started and it’s definitely freezing at the nozzle I can run a hair dryer and melt ice at the nozzle and it works perfectly for about 2 hrs and then it freezes , I have put insulation around the nozzle to aluminum foil as one I u- tuber
Hmmmm. I don't think so. But I can't guarantee it. There are only three small holes behind the air filter on mine. Just enough for the air to be gently pulled through at low volume. It isn't like a furnace filter where large volumes of air pour through it. My two main thoughts are the ones mentioned in this video. Keep the air in the freezer at the default temp and keep the rear fridge area totally open so that the air can circulate. IE keep everything at least about 4 inches away from the back wall. If it still freezes the water filter then it might be time to call a tech. Could be a thermostat issue maybe.
@@TheProjectHelpDesk It froze after a power outage and I ran on generator (60-61 hz)power for a short time, less than an hour. I checked all the solenoids and ended up backflowing the filter to get it to flow. I was not able to determine if it was a filter or reservoir restriction at that point. I replaced the filter and thought it was a restriction from scale buildup. The next morning it was frozen again. I discovered yesterday it was the filter. I installed the old filter, defrosted the new one and then I raised the freezer 1 or 2 degrees and the fridge 1. This morning it was not frozen. I did replace the filter inside yesterday but it seems that it only filters as you said, not the main source of cold air from the freezer. I just don't like not knowing why things happen. There was a large container placed next to the temp sensor that was warm that night too after the initial freeze. Could have been coincidence. I don't usually put warm things in there but it happened the same night that first had the freeze after the power outage.
@@treybadd I know exactly what you mean. I can't stand a transient issue that resolves itself without knowing the true root cause. Yeah, sounds like the troubleshooting perfect storm. Multiple changed variables at once. I know that my generator runs hot on the voltage side. In fact I don't usually plug in things that I am afraid of extra voltage causing damage too. I think it runs at about 140V. So I mainly only hook up a light or the basement sumps. Something hot putting off radiant next to the temp sensor could definitely trick it into keeping the baffle open longer and pulling in additional cold air that wasn't needed. In this case the best approach might be to monitor.
So true. That takes me back to the Thermal Dynamics portion of my college physics classes. I try to keep things simple in the videos. Makes my life easier LOL. Thanks for commenting.