Why modders replace electric guitar bridges... 

On a Stratocaster type guitar I switch the string trees that are up on the headstock to rollers. The ones that are always there are nothing but poopy and the string always snags then let’s go with a ding if you’re going to bend the string. So rollers on the headstock is an absolute must!!!

Got a ABR bell brass bridge for the Epi Casino. No slots though. Basically set the E strings, string spacing ruler for the middle strings, tapped the top of the strings with a punch and a fretting hammer to mark em. Diamond slotting files angled back slightly above the tail piece (roll it off a touch to debur any sharp edges), radius gauge and a triangle file to get the V shape. Came out awesome with minimal sitar effect, bell brass sounds great. Use the old strings to slot it. Then change em before intonation. Hammering ruins em.

bridge and tailpiece work together to make angle and height of strings.... so a saddle may have a burr on it or the treble side of the bridge may need to be raised or even the tailpiece raised to lower the angle of the strings over the saddles, etc. But a single bridge saddle cannot be moved up/down but the bridge side can and the saddle can be smoothed.

It looks like one of the saddle screws is not flat to the bridge. I would take it off and see if there’s any loose parts. I had one that had a lose clip that held the saddle screw in place. I would also turn the bridge round so the saddle screws are facing the pickups. I know you will have probably adjusted the truss rod, but I would just make sure it’s not loose and causing some rattle. I sometimes cut a V shape at the back of each nut slot. I find that can help with rattle.

Just found your channel. This is probably the most informative video on the combined subject of the TOM bridges and the mysterious rattle that isn't fret related.

I find Fender bridges of any kind generally much easier to deal with. The resonance and buzzing TOM on my Ibanez semi hollow was cured after much head scatching, a roll of Teflon tape, a file and some nut sauce. My gibson nasville TOM took new saddles and and extraordinary amount of messing around fine tuning. When they're good... they're really fukn good!

I get better tuning stability with a roller bridge. Less slack in the strings. I normally don't even change the tuners. I just replace the nut, tighten the tuners, and stretch the strings and the tuning is rock solid.

I've modded most of my guitars but never have upgraded any of my bridges. I'm going to on my Firefly FFLPS though. I was thinking a new bridge would fix its slight fret buzz, you have confirmed this for me - thanks.

Can you run the strings the opposite way in the tail piece and use it as a wrapover? That would decrease the breakover angle and allow more room to clear the bridge.

I think you may have saved my Epiphone ES-175! It’s been buzzing on one string for a long time, and I assumed it was a resonance somewhere, but I can never track it down. I figured if it was the bridge, it wouldn’t just be one string. Going to order a replacement Gotoh now!

Bridge is also backwards. The intonation screws should face forward for adjustment access and to keep string from interfering. I like old worn in tuneOmatics, but every thing new is going to get JD Moon roller saddles, tremelo or not.

I think it’s worth mentioning that TOM bridges tend to collapse over time, which is just when the bridge begins to warp/flex downward toward the guitar body from the pressure of the strings. If it’s the D & G strings giving you persistent issues, then you likely have a collapsed bridge. It effectively changes the string-radius of the saddles by lowering the center ones. The top of the bridge should be perfectly straight, so if you place a straight edge across the bridge (over the post holes, in front of the saddles) and you can see any gap in the center, you have a collapsed bridge. It’s essentially unavoidable, given enough time. But the process can be accelerated by using heavier string gauges, having more string tension, or having a steeper break-angle from keeping the tailpiece set too low

Thanks, just got LTD H3 with my first TOM bridge (Tonepros), I must say don't like the concept at all, it seems like an old design that for some reason is still being used (yes, I know on arch tops it is the most obv option). There are so many things either wrong or strange about design, feels like it has the third leg to fix other two :D Other than that, it takes time and practice to get used to it (height above body, different angle, saddles under your palm etc) after Floyd/Hipshot bridges :)

I've bought 3 IYV guitars lately and I really like them. The tuners aren't smooth but they do hold tuning and the pickups are decent imo. The main problem I'm having with all three are the bridges buzzing and rattling. I'll eventually replace them because that buzzing is really irritating.

I always go to at least "Tone-Pro" for bridge and the stop bar, when ever I am trying to get the best out of a Les Paul, including all Epi's. I build LP's and Jr.'s and I never use cheap hardware. The Tone Pro brand offers a couple of improved "lock-down" versions, for both Imperial and metric guitars made of better metal. It is definitely worth the expense. Upgrading the stop bar makes a surprising difference going from mostly zinc , :pot metal: to cast brass works well. Rollers have even more potential for rattling, and on a Bigsby equipped guitar I make sure the saddles are highly polished and that does it. Good presentation.

I ran into problems buying a gotoh tuneomatic,thinking I could just change out the thumb wheel, and get the adapters,uses the existing body studs allowing you to go from large post to small,seems real Gibson LPs have a wider bridge than the imports do,the gotoh wouldn’t fit,I did get a Nashville small post for it, but I had to turn the saddles around to make it into a tuneomatic,there was a noticeable improvement.

Once It’s intimated. A drop of super glue/ or glass and hardener.. Cheaper ,less obtrusive ,quick . If that doesn’t solve your problem then replacement.. You were going to have to throw it away anyhow.! Nothing to loose.

Those saddles are shocking. I'm not surprised there was buzzing.

Teflon tejp, stretch the spring or go to a hardware store and get screws that fit. It will cost you less then a dollar. Or demand a better one from the store, they should work on a new purchase

I CHANGE MINE BECAUSE IT KELP BREAKING MY E STRINGS LIKE CRAZY SO I BOUGHT A BRIDGE WITH ROLLERS ON THEM, NO MORE BROKEN STRINGS FROM THAT SIDE, ALSO IT STAY IN TUNE BETTER

I don’t know why the G string buzzes, but Stratocaster style guitar also has this problem. Throwing money at the problem is in my opinion not the solution.

1. The bridge base of a TOM is arched to match the radius of the fretboard. Zinc bridges collapse- lose their radius, flattening out over time. Happens on vintage Gibsons, happens on new guitars, only takes a little flattening to cause buzzing. one of the first things to check. 2. Guitars with that style neck joint tend to "hump" the fretboard at the joint, raising the frets and causing insane inexplicable buzzing, unless you know to look for it. Again, one of the first things to check. Check those. Roller bridges shouldn't be part of the discussion at this point. You're still trying to satisfy the basic string geometry.

That could just be a loose screw on the bridge, cheap bridge. I can see from here the high E saddle screw is sticking out. Snug Dow those screws and buzzing will go away but yes Gotoh bridges are made in Japan $24

Those rattles or buzzes can't be heard when you're plugged in and playing at regular volume so why fool around with it unless of course it's affecting your intonation.

I had a friend who would find rattles under the dash of his cars and spend half of his weekend pulling out the dash to fix the rattle but of course he'd create new rattles. He's a monk nowadays no cars to pull apart just his bicycle and dog.

No one ever says the oversea bridge is smaller Trying to find USA and post size

Because the ABR1 is a better design than the Nashville. Longer sustain due to how the strings passover the bridge not touching the back edge of it as they go into the saddle. Look at your Nashville. You will see the strings touching the edge of the bridge. You don't want that.

A shot in the dark, but I need a Les paul style bridge with post wholes at 78mm, which is seemingly impossible to find. Does anyone here have experience with finding Les paul style bridges in odd ball sizes or even a modern company that makes custom les paul bridges?

Thankyou,do you know if Abr-1 Style Tune-o-matic Bridge Tailpiece Gold would fit on a Antiquity LS1? Thanks 😎

I have just about used them all, faber is what you want, tone pro’s while just as good, the company claimed to me, the bridge saddles could not be replaced, nor would they sell individual saddles, that will not work long term. And is complete BS! so I removed all tonepro parts are refuse to use anything by that company. Faber is a much better company, and the best of the best when it comes to abr1 styles, bridge , and Nashville conversations to studs. And like I said, I believe I have tried just about everything made. Gibson parts are not all that great now. Just my take on all this. You want the best, use faber!

Stretch the springs. You've got loose fitting screws in there right now, with insufficient loading between the saddles and screws as they are set in their recesses. There is no rocket science here. Also, you've cut the grooves way too wide and far into those saddles and increased the landings and surface contact points.

I got a roller bridge for my SG that has a Bigsby B70, and at the time I didn't know much about them, so I picked one out based on it's looks. The grooves in the rollers don't seem to be deep enough, because the lighter strings keep popping out. The rollers seem to be like the brass piece at the ends of the strings. I can't say that's what they used for the rollers for sure. Anywho, I'm putting a Maestro Vibrola on it, but waiting on the new tuners to be delivered. I'm thinking about trying a Schaller roller bridge if I'm still having a problem with the new tremolo. The top of the posts are not visible from the top and it's not necessarily cheap, rather expensive. Would you recommend the Schaller roller bridge or had you any experience with them ??? Thanks.

Is it a Chibson?

Looks like the bridge on my guitar. If I wanted to do a Nashville/Tonepro/ABR, do they make bridges with conversion post that drop right in? I’ve seen FaberUSA conversion post but not sure if that is what I need or not. Any help would be great.

Thomastik make violin strings.Good infos.Thx.

Is the bridge backwards?

Gotoh! Like 'Go-Toe' or 'Goat-Oh'.

The string vibrates sideways ... Most of these bridges are made from junk metal.

Gibson is been using this for ever all my Gibson have no problems

the original TOM bridges are good that one is crap those v saddles are no bueno as well..the older saddles are good as well don't know why they used those

The setup is not correct. The bridge is crap I agree Les Paul check the nut that buzz is not from the bridge