@@user-hk5fs8re6z A lot of them like the Samsung 18650s and 18350s are made in South Korea, and SK is a US-Ally. Buying from Allies is way better than China, I don't mind it at all. Panasonic also makes some batteries still in Japan, again a US-Ally. As long as it's not Communist China, or Vietnam (a China proxy).
Definitely pick up a tire repair kit. After moving onto a gravel road, I get flats about once a month. Plugging my own tires has saved me hundreds of dollars and many hours of my time. It's worth it for the convenience alone, let alone the resiliency.
Really? I’ve spent more time on gravel than most nowadays, and I’ve never had a flat due to gravel. It’s always due to nails, screws, valve stems, and even a wheel weight once!
@@johnnybagofdoughnuts4193 It's not the gravel itself that's causing the flat tires, it's all the metal debris. It's a pretty busy road so they grade it about once a week. And any debris that was on the shoulder gets dispersed back into the middle.
Can confirm: gravel, chert, or dirt roads have a way of accumulating tire popping stuff. Get good at fixing your own tires, reinflating, and getting back in.
I recently did this myself and I HIGHLY recomend researching USB C-PD (Power Delivery), The new standard with auto-negotiate 5v, 9v, 12v, 15v, 20v, off a compatable battery bank. I have an adapter that goes USBC to 12v barrel jack and i can charge HF radios directly off a USBC batter bank.
Just be careful when using USB-C PD on radios. If you plug the cable into the radio, then the power source, it will see 5V then jump to the negotiated voltage in the first second of connection. If you plug the cable into the power source, then the radio, it will only ever see the requested voltage. It won’t damage all radios, but has been documented to destroy the QRP labs QDX/QMX.
Good call. I use USBC to barrel jack with a toggle switch so I can define what voltage to use before plugging it in. I find manual control to be safest.
Just wanna say thanks for this video. Got a tire patch kit and battery pack on the recommendation. Two weeks later I got a flat in back country. Worked like a charm. Thanks for the great content.
For those not in the know on cool tactical lingo: power management- have charged batteries. Cable management- tape wires to your gun. Trigger control - pull trigger good, don’t pull trigger bad. Ammunition management - don’t run out of ammo. Sling management- don’t let sling catch on stuff Magazine management- don’t put empty mag where full mag goes Basically, take one word a normal person would say and add the word control or management to increase credibility.
I recommend Powerfilm (Made in USA) and Suntactics (assembled in USA) for small-scale portable solar! Make sure you check the input/output volts/amps for your Nitecore, 18350s, etc and make them all aligned. And test your panels!
I think portable HAM radio operators inherently have this built into their DNA. Some things I'd recommend are standardizing cables and power supplies, i.e. all USB-C and rechargeable devices instead of a mixture of USB, AA, & AAA. Also, in terms of weight, battery banks are much more efficient than carrying a solar panel.
Will Prowse has a great channel for DIY solar systems. on another note, for those that have powertools, most companies make inverters to put on your tool batteries. an older, but still great channel, AnalyticalSurvival has a great vehicle setup vid.
a car jumper is a good thing to carry in your pack because odds are, you'll be mounted at some point. pulling double duty as a general purpose bank makes it truly viable. many radios have packs that accept standard batteries like AA. in fact, you could run your entire kit off AAs if you used a remote bank for your thermal. AAAs as well if you use those AAA-to-18650 adapters. part of the reason why the COMP M5 exists is because weird batteries are basically impossible to source in a warzone, always good to know you can raid the nearest smoke alarm or TV remote or junk drawer for a battery resupply.
Many things are good to have, good to carry....not that many are vital...and, comparing to all those things that are "good things to carry" your actual physical shape/fit form ,to carry them, that is very limited
@@TREXARMS DeWalt has a 100W USB-C bidirectional adapter that lets USB-C charge the batteries or provide enough power to keep laptops charged up too. They have some massive batteries that let you store a ton of energy and they are durable too.
Built up a lot of redundancy over the last few years. Which includes a small USB stick that connects to a battery tender lead. Car batteries are everywhere in the event you don't have access to AC power
Would be a good idea to understand battery charging/discharging characteristics. Some cells are designed for high amp charging/discharging where others are designed for lower amp “deep” cycling. Leaving lithium fully charged can shorten their cycle life (increase internal resistance). It’s also nice to know how to series “string” batteries and how the string is affected when loaded down/recharged. The Icharger x12 is an amazing device that also supports data logging capability via the Junsi console software. Once you have a good understanding of lithium you’ll understand plucking hybrid/plug in vehicle traction units to power things.. like your house
Would also recommend solar based stuff. Weirdly, when losing power during a hurricane, I was able to use a powerful flashlight...aimed into my solar charger...to charge my phone. Converting flashlight batteries into phone power. I only did this because it was dark when my phone was struggling.
I'm slowly getting all my gadgets replaced/upgraded to minimize what I have to carry to keep them running. It takes a bit unless you have plenty of money. Alas, I'm a poor
I'm subbed to all 3 channels so don't care where you'd upload it but an intro to small scale solar would be really cool. Preferably fixed but mobile would be cool too.
@@isaacbotkintrex Without a doubt, they are awesome! Here's a trick for getting good seals too: -Once you've got the tire plug properly seated in the leak, push down on the tread so the tire goes concave right around the plug area (this will only work if the tire has no pressure in it). -Keep the tread from popping back into shape, and dribble a the rubber cement sealant around the leak. -Then let the tread slowly pop into shape while pushing the sealant toward the leak. -This will draw the sealant in around the plug, giving you a very durable patch.
The reason I didn't mention it by a name is because the company no longer exists. Most of these are little Chinese gadgets that constantly change names and availability so it's better to search for the features that you're looking for than a specific product.
