What PDM are you using or planning to use? 🦸♂ Building a fast car? Get $400 OFF the all inclusive VIP online course package deal: hpcdmy.co/vipy96 🎮PDM Installation & Configuration course now 50% OFF. Enrol today: hpcdmy.co/offery96 TIME STAMPS: 0:00 - Introduction 0:13 - Main vs enable power 0:56 - Fuse and relay setup 1:21 - Benefit of using a PDM instead 1:35 - Keypad options 2:35 - PMU + Keypad best purchased as a pair 2:55 - Keypad setup 4:11 - Wiring 4:39 - Configuration in Software 10:02 - Wiper motor control 11:28 - Application to other elements 11:44 - Summary 12:14 - Learn more (link above)
You mentioned that the wiper setup was already confg'd for a previous example. So, after setting up the Keypad 3-Position Button, could you remove the 3 Analog Switch Inputs, thereby freeing up the 3 input pins?
It looks very promising and I'm not sure I would be concerned about reliability even for my experimental aircraft, when you consider that the engine is already managed by an ECU with similar tech. But the price point is wayyyy too high unless you realy need the flexibility and control that hardwiring may not offer. No way a PCB keypad costs $300. That's obviously race stuff pricing. I'll wait for consumer electronics pricing.
Depends on how you want to do your math. A $300 keypad, a connector and 4 wires is almost always more cost effect (always more cost effective if your paying someone to wire it) than wiring buttons in switches.
@@n8_b123 If you factor in the cost of the PDM I don't think so. True you'll spare on wiring, maybe it will balance the cost if you have the harness made by a pro. But you'll still need wiring to the loads.
@@SuperYellowsubmarin the cost of the PDM and wiring the outputs is a constant no matter if you wire switches or a can keypad. But by the time you purchase 8-15 toggle switches, terminals, heat shrink and wire and spend 4+ hours wiring your input switches it adds up quite quickly.
It's hard to say you'll break even cost wise as it depends on a few variables, but you 100% save on time and wiring complexity. The price people put on that varies wildly according to who's doing the work and the work itself. That said it is now at a point where we can start to talk about the potential of either option being close in price where as previously there was no comparison to be made, PDMs were huge money. That is pretty cool and a good sign for things yet to come - Taz.
I have the ecu master, and a power tune digital dash, I'll be buying a pmu16 soon. So for the can hi/lo from ecu, I can just tie 3 sets together? Or can I just hop from one component to anothe?
That's how it came. You manually insert the stickers/inserts you want, a bunch of them are provided with the unit from memory but you can also buy them separately. If yours came with stickers/inserts already on there (perhaps you got it secondhand? Hope you got a great deal, these are a fantastic 'tool' 🤘) you can remove/change them - Taz. ecumasterusa.com/collections/engine-management-accessories/products/replacement-sticker-sheet-for-can-keyboard?variant=36027572256932
I'm not sure we're qualified to answer that one sorry as our experience is pretty limited compared to say a paid professional driver who is using a lot of different setups. I can say we have never had to replace a keypad due to not liking it though so if that is anything to go off you're pretty safe regardless of the direction you take I reckon. One of these just arrived yesterday for a giveaway prize which is quite interesting too: blinkmarine.com/products/racepad/ - Taz.
The PDM course will help you out if you're new to setting them up. There isn't a specific AiM example, but I am certain what is there will still help you out. Like ECUs, PDMs are all trying to do the same things at the end of the day regardless of the logo and if you have an AiM PDM with an AiM supplied keypad it should be super simple to get them communicating. Everything else from there PDM wise that you're new to, that's what the course is for. Hope that helps - Taz. www.hpacademy.com/courses/pdm-installation-and-configuration?
The PDM16 as in MoTeC's PDM16? If so, then they have a marine version, PDM16M I believe, which would be the one you want. If you mean the PMU16 from Ecumaster which we use here, then I don't believe they have a waterproof version no. I would get in touch with your Ecumaster dealer to be certain, we don't sell any hardware so only know it in relation to what we use it for and discuss. Bit out of line with what we do at HPA for track cars etc, but I know some of the 4x4 guys just seal their electronics separately, as sealed in their own box rather than just relying on waterproof connectors which is fine for the water they see, but to be truely waterproof for a marine application etc I'm not sure I would do that myself - Taz.
You realize a ton of race cars use these right? Like they're an extremely low failure rate device, probably less than most mechanical switches. These are industrial designed products, not something made in some guys basement
You put these in things you dont want to have fail. You can run double redundancy to crucial components in the car and program fail safes to reset the circuit if "blown" If it fails again it can automatically switch to the second circuit ran. It's amazingly simplified for wiring as well. I'm in 1000%
@Gsry As already mentioned, the opposite is true. This tech comes from race applications seeking reliability and it has filtered down from there - Taz.
DUDE , THAT IS A LOT OF SOFTWARE SETTINGS TO JUST GET A WIPER MOTOR TO RUN , PERSONALLY ILL CHECK BACK IN A FEW WHEN IT'S DUMBED DOWN A BIT MORE !!!!!!!!
You've missed the point. You can set it up to do almost anything you want, and you're removing old school, failure prone fuses, switches and relays from the system. Yes it takes a while to setup, but it's flexible and saves a lot of hassle in the long run