Thanks for making this video it really did shed some light on bearings. normal logic would think that you need a harder tougher surface for high hp. I'm still trying to wrap my head around this concept, but I'm smart enough not to argue with professionals. and I'm not just talking about the guy in this video that explains some stuff on bearings. Its hard to grasp how increasing bearing tolerance and using softer bearings makes a drag engine stay together. I'm just doing research on building a short block that won't start knocking after a few months of racing.
embeddibility. if it doesnt have it theres no give to the surface to "take up" that small piece of metal. a hard ass bearing wont embed it and take out the crankshaft which is expensive vs taking out the bearing, which is not as expensive.
They didn't mention how long the babbitt coating lasts on a 900 HP motor but on top fuel they did. I was curious especially on those 24 hour endurance races.
there the best? not the p series . i have my 2nd set in house because the first set had geburs and litlle iron flakes in them .well the second set was also bad and had tesame problems. where are the p series made?
I had a momentary rattle on hot start up in a Gen1 Chevy 5.7. All of the rod bearings were factory standard. I replaced them with standard bearings and now I have a slight continuous knock when engine warms up.
