More rivets in the tip usually mean they are more resistant to deformation / damage when bore cutting, especially in hard woods like hard maple . One of the things I LOVED about stihl bars is they had 6 rivets and the tips lasted. Conversely I sold a bunch of Tsumara bars and every one had a tip failure within weeks of pro level logger use. Hurt my reputation and it too a while to regain that with the guys I was selling supplies to. Those Tsumara bars had four rivets.
I not understand very well all thoes specifications, I have the Stihl MSA300 witch comes with Light 04 bar, at sametime I have the Stihl 220C witch come with 40cm Rollomatic bar, I went by a Stihl dealer and hask for a 40cm Light 04 for the 220C but it not fits and they go down with a 35cm Light 04 also they change some other part because the chain for this new bar is slim, so now in this saw I have a shorter bar.
I’ve always heard the 6 rivet has more bearings . I was also curious on the 4 rivets of the tsumara for longevity… I’ve had 2 tsumaras, didn’t have a tip failure but I broke both bars. Both of which was my fault. To be honest…. I’ve never actually had a stihl tip failed with the 6 rivet and it’s not even serviceable
@danielsmith8659 mine did not hold up and my customers at the time were lucky to get 3 weeks out of one. This is east coast hard wood logging with gol methodology
@@afleetcommand I’m an east coast guy my self . South east. I really didn’t get enough run time on the tsumaras … to be fair they aren’t exactly cheaper than a regular stihl rollamatic es . I had both on a pro Mac 700 and had to modify them anyway to work correctly. So stihl wasn’t an option for that saw.
That paint job on the new stihl bars is different and I do kinda like it but think I also prefer the traditional bar paint scheme. Who knows, it may grow on me! Thanks for the info👍🏻 I haven't seen them in person yet.
I still miss the OG Stihl bars, polished not painted, just small orange letters that said "Stihl". I haven't been able to find any of the new bars anywhere yet. I tend to favor cannon or sugi hara, but I do want to see if Stihl has stepped it up with their new ones
"It's where we built our reputation in the first place. To help you identify model features, look for these corresponding symbols: C = Comfort feature, E = Easy2Start™, Q = an additional chain braking system, R = wrap handle, and M = STIHL M-Tronic™." C = more antivibration features
I would be very curious about the strong bars vs lite bars and how they feel .!!! Great info brother. I didn’t get a video notification maybe you put to many videos out 😂. Joking Arron puts out a lot of videos and I think I get them all.
I've been looking at a 500i but they don't really seem to know much about the r except for it is a full wrap and about 150US higher here at my local stihl dealer
My 261 m tronic ripped from day 1 . I just lost the tip in my light 04 , 20 inch 325 , 50 bar after only 5 chains. Probably me full but I hope they hold up ok
If I didn't have this channel and was just going out and using it, I'd see this 400 a lot differently. As it is, I'm doing all these tests on it and it keeps losing. But, it feels great, it runs great, and if I wasn't doing these tests I would have no idea that is was really only high average. Does that make sense?
Interesting never seen that sheet with the bars. I thought light 04 was a line made for small saws in only .325 but then I seen one on a 7310 so I was confused. It's weird they would designate the rivets on the bar but I guess as a marketing idea it worked cause I been trying to figure it out for a while lol. So it's just a laminated bar with 4 rivets then? Confusing
You’re right, I thought so too. When I got my 261C-M a couple of years ago, I was going to try a .325, 0.050, 18” setup to see if to was going to improve the stock 3/8 LP. Sounds like I have to revisit this again with the dealers. I can just imagine the look I’ll get from my dealer who is not a chainsaw guy.
We'll have to see how the new bars hold up compared to the ones they're replacing. On a side note, Echo in Europe are releasing new 4010 and 4920 farmer saws. Appear to be smaller and larger versions of the plastic clamshell strato 4510. Hope they aren't coming here soon.
Unfortunately the 4920 is on the way. It will have a smaller bore and longer stroke. The owners manual for the north american market has been out since August?? It is replacing the 4910 and seems to be a clamshell design. Most likely due to the increased price in magnesium for saws with an actual 2 piece case. For about 8 months last year I couldnt order any ECHO equipment that had Mag parts due to global supply shortages. CS-4010 is replacing the CS-400 which is well due for an update.
I've got a rim that will fit. It's the one they used on the 031. I'll send it too you. I don't think they make them anymore. Was hard for me to find. I was putting an 031 together for a buddy of mine, and it was .325. I searched all over to find it,and supposedly didn't. I told my buddy about the, and he said he wanted to switch it over to 3/8 anyways. I switched it and sent it home. A week ago the saw shop called, and told me they had my rim. I went and got it thinking I might have a use for it someday, and here it is.
@@novicelumberjack I've got it from that saw you sent my cousin. I'll try to get it in the mail tomorrow. Been on the OT I'll take a little time and send it.
I just bought the MS 400 I find with a 25" bar I don't have to bend over as much still a great saw has plenty of pulll I might be wrong.. Now I'm here to say I don't run a saw like you do I'm only a part time farmer out in the fields cutting few trees down best saw I bought too far.. Like I said just easier on my back.
Streaches like mad on a powerful saw and has inconsistent tooth hardness on the ones I tried. Some teeth file like butter and other ones on same chain are so hard the file skates across the tooth without cutting. Only tried a couple tri link pro bars and chains to demo. The bar tip let go after a week of hard use
Yep! Same with powercare from home depot and craftsman from lowes. Been pleased with it in 3/8lp so far. Recently picked up 1 .325 loop and 1 3/8 loop to try out. Looks and feels extremely similar to holzfforma chain.
Glad you found out what light means be because I was goin to grind the finish off for obvious disappointment now you broke it down! Misleading marketing
Still really no point running a .325 on a 67cc saw they stretch real bad. I made up an 18” .325 bar and put a 9 pin on my 066 just for messing around. You wouldn’t want a 7 pin on a big saw anyway saw has too much power for the gearing and you loose chain speed on a .325 vs 3/8”
@@christopherlehman4045 The husqvarna H21 .325 .058 chain I'm running on my 560xp is not streching any more than usual. So a 67cc saw would be fine with .325. And the chain speed is the same on 8 pin .325 and 7 pin 3/8.
Yes it’s probably close but you had to go up one pin you have a smaller less durable chain and cutter on a saw with plenty of power for 3/8” so doesn’t make s whole lot of sense to do it. I’m sure the cut times are almost identical between the 3/8 and .325 on your saw
Actually all the new ones that say light on them are lighter than the rollomatic e bars they replaced. They claim an actual weight reduction of approximately 10-20% depending on length. They saved weight my making the rails slightly thinner and changing the nose profile. The p will replace the older poly core light bars and the 06 is just the heavier duty bar with 6 rivet tip like the old rollomatic es.
I'm 56 yrs old been a machinists all my life. The bar & chain is less than a 1/2 lb lighter combined. However the chain is thinner and so is the bar. They say the lighter chain runs faster. So faster means the bar gets hotter & the thinner chain stretches easier. Plus they are a little more expensive. Don't see much improvement. Why try to change something that has worked so well for so long. Just my opinion.
@@gunterbecker8528 I like the old bars. The new ones are lighter. Seems as though they would also get hotter quicker, causing them to stretch. I believe, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I bought the one with the old style chain and bar.
you're getting way too caught up in the "I think this size bar and this size saw are blah blah...." I would tell you what my anecdotal use case in my anecdotal wood type are blah blah... and you would think I'm full of shit, or you could... I love your stuff, and I love your process, just stop gettin hung up on the size.... we know it's how you use it!
While I am a fan of the stihl rollamatic es bar. Only the es …. Not the regular rollamatic . If you want a cheap laminate or stamped bar you have a lot of other cheap options . Oregon being a good example. If you aren’t gonna buy a pro bar from stihl….get a cheap one else where . It’s just the truth
The last month or so, I've only been getting a little under half of my YT notifications🧐 having to check my subscriptions list a few times a day. So you're not alone!
No there really isn’t a mapping in the fuel system. It just takes a 400 Stihl 8-10 tanks to fully seat the rings. Mtronic saws don’t have a break in map they just have a set map in the coil and it just tunes lean-rich many times a second to try to hold a certain rpm. And technically an mtronic saws is just a carb saw with a solenoid controlled jet. The coil, carb and flywheel are the main parts that are different between the standard carb and mtronic versions of Stihl saws. The 400 only comes mtronic.
My mistake, I shouldn't have said fuel mapping. I was hinting more towards a timing curve type of governing. Chris, do you know for certain that they do not have a limiting function, or are you just assuming, or passing along info as you heard it from someone else who may be assuming? I'm just trying to sort through the weeds. Fact or assumption. Do you KNOW there is no limiting control built in...or are you assuming? And if you know, where did you get the info? I'd love to get my hands on it.
I figured actual fuel mapping wasn’t happening. A fusable link on the coil like the echo dealer told me was on the 7310 could be a viable possibility. I must say thow it is strato or air over charge. With laziness built in to m tronic technologies is a bunch of EPA BS. There is one reason auto tune / m tronic would be worth having that would be if I’m giving saws to employees and not wanting them to touch anything. Other then that sthil and husky can shove it I don’t care how good they get at building them I was upset with husky for doing it now sthil can eat a big fat one also 🤣 sorry for my negativity towards that saw your trying to love so much boedy. Sometimes we try and justify our purchases in spectacular unreal ways. I truly hope it gets better for you man.
It’s not a smart system really just a set program mapped into the control that’s part of the coil. It reads rpm on the magnets and uses a solenoid on the zama carb to tune lean or rich to maintain a desirable rpm that’s it. It’s the rings taking time to seat in for the 6-10 tanks and that will vary on how hard you run it. Ran my 400 stock for one tank then i advanced the timing and opened the muffler up. The saw is designed to be an up to 14000 rpm saw and stihls largest saw designed to run that factory spec. Mtronic is not a super complex system and really no reason to be scared of it. Been out over 10 years
Mtronic or autotune does far better overall than you and your screwdriver can. Plus if you get an air leak it will save the saw a lot of times. Will still run like crap but it may keep the cylinder from cooking.
It’s almost like you are trying to make yourself like stihl. Call it what it is today, overrated, overpriced. Do they make some good saws? Absolutely. Do they make some junk? Absolutely.
Just like all brands just how cheap you want to be when buying a saw. If you buy a pro mag case with separate cylinder saw from husky, echo or Stihl it’s a good saw. If you buy a 170-200$ saw it won’t take heavy use. Still know plenty of tree services that had Stihl then tried to save money by purchasing echo and they all ended back with Stihl and or husky.
Just like Husky, some good and some suck, really bad. Power equipment comes with its own level of dependability and durability, both traits come with a price tag. Always buy the best you can afford and you won't be sorry. If you shop by price you may not be able to afford the repair or replacement to get best.