When I was a kid, about 10 or 12 years old, it was a fashion thing to have these on your shoes and make all the damned tapping noise you could on the school floors to piss the teachers off. Blakey's we used to call them and we'd have as many as we could fit on, front and heel. Anyhow, after years of installing these it became an expense that could not be kept up on a 10 year old's pocket money. Now that was because they would wear down real quick on the one pair of shoes that your parents could afford to buy for you back in them days (I'm 55 now). So, what we did was cut a guard sized piece out of the heel rubber so that the guard wasn't sticking up proud of the heel and therefore became the only point of wear on the heel. This is something maybe you and your subscribers might want to try, it really does work. It makes the entire heel become the point of contact, not just the guard that sit's proud of the heel. It doesn't have to be a perfect cut out in the shape of the guard, just enough of the rubber so that the guard can be inserted into the cut out space. Right, that's my 2 penny worth of useless information garnered over half a century of living. Take it or leave it, it's there to be used or not. Thanks for the vid, much appreciated!
Hi. Would what you're suggesting result in the effect you get on a Clark's Desert Boot, ie the back of the heel is ever so slightly lifted off the floor because your heel strike is more toward that "step" (for want of a better word) toward the middle of the sole..? Thanks
I'm 51 and remember those days...the ultimate 'dare' was to dangle one's foot off the back of a Routemaster London bus platform to create a shower of sparks from the Blakies. I never dared do this, but my father claimed he'd done it in the 40s!
I really appreciate your time and effort in providing this information. It makes you realize the work it takes to dress well and to properly care for your wardrobe.
Years ago (80s) when I was growing up all of the people my Grandads age used to have a metal version of these in their shows (segs/blakeys they called them) ......they had a very distinctive tap/tap sound to them, I honestly can't hear the difference with the version you installed but loved watching the process.
I wear my shoes a couple of times before installing the protectors so I can see how the shoe is wearing and where best to install the tap on it's heel. Each pair of shoes will wear different on it's heel.
A "fishing magnet" will help get those tacks out of the carpet. I use one to pull the staples out of my office carpet that don't quite make it into my trash can.
You might also try the Shoe Goo to fill that worn spot. When Shoe Goo is dry, it is the same as rubber. I am starting to do that in all my shoes including sneakers with good results.
Thank you for uploading the video it was really great I really appreciate it. I am a female and I used to go to the shoe guy to put tabs on all of my shoes but he moved so I guess I was like let me just try it myself so I’ve already ordered the tabs from Amazon so thanks for the video again
I’ll bet it’s because they do not have a leather heel base. They don’t stay on very well if the heel is solid rubber. I’m nit sure there’s a whole lot that can be done in that case, except maybe trying longer ring shank nails? Ring shank nails are nails that have ridges along the entire shake
Glad I found you. This is a excellent craft that you have. Keep it up I wish you did it on a larger scale I do have some shoes that need to be repaired. And have installed these tabs.
Love your vids, and I've done the same with dropping the tacks on carpet. They make a magnetic 'broom' of sorts, that not only works good for this, but anything else in the garage, etc.
I see some folks using metal taps in the front to minimize wear, but I understand and can imagine that these add a bit more noise to your step. The rubber taps/guards seem to be the more common option.
I tend to chew through those plastic heal savers quickly. I have to use the metal ones to save my heels, and yes they are noisy and slippery if not use to them. I am used to the sound after many years of wearing them. I only know I have them on when people stare at my feet LOL I also chew through those too but not as fast. I am going to re-angle my taps. Thank you for the idea Angel from The Bay
You may be slightly dragging your feet or doing a little scoot when you bring your heel down with each step. Since I started wearing dress shoes, I've definitely noticed little ways that I add extra wear to my shoes. The worst for me is that i rock my heel when i'm sitting down. It's an awful habit and really difficult to break.
Great Video. Hope you get that loose Nail. Shine a flashlight: you'll see metal reflecting back. Good to know about the wear area goes between the nails! Thanks!
If you bend the heel plate in the middle, it's easier to take the paper off of it. You don't have to peel it with your fingernails. Use threaded nails not spike nails.
I have a pair with 1/4-1/3" heel pads over wooden platform. Can I still apply taps with small short nails? Thanks! (Concern is the wooden platform). Would it be better to go to a shoe repair and have entire rubber part of the heel replaced prior to applying the tap?
I noticed a slight difference, but nothing really to bothersome, in a noisy world it would vanish. I enjoyed your video. I just got a cheap pair of ankle boots with a plastic heel - very noisy and hard on the heels - might toss them plus they don't shine well - from China really thin leather they use as well - brand new and there garbage just from the heel.
Hi Robert- My shoemaker applies shoe glue that he lets sit for 24 hours before renailing the taps to my sneakers. It works unless a tap gets caught on a city sidewalk metal grate. I am going to try doing it with your method. Thanks.
I've honestly never tried them on a sneaker, I wouldn't think they would hold on very well. Other than the two small nail holes, I don't think it hurts to try though.
@@CobblerBob holds well with tiny screws much better on sneakers. I have lots of experience. Only metal protectors work for me. I've even tried a piece of a bicycle tire. I think i need to relearn how to walk? 🤔
Hello robert sir....where did buy the small black please i really need not one ..alots of pc and actually. My shoe all like half finish.....please help
I clean my heel first with soap and water then dry. I then take the cleat and pull the adhesive off SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY. Then I sand the cleat and heel a little to get the surfaces a little rough. I then use Shoe Goo and to on the heel and place the cleat on. I sometimes smooth off any excessive goo. Let dry for a day and wella! When the cleat wears out you need to use a pair of pliers or needle nose to pull the shoe goo off and there are no nail holes. Been doing this for some time and it works perfect.
So essentially you just avoid using the nails? I recently did this to my shoes and I dislike the sound they make but I thought it was just because maybe the nails weren't pounded in deep enough. So I like your idea of not using the nails at all. Possibly try using contact cement.
I wonder if just glue is a better way to go, and leave the nails out of it? Also, i am wondering if using polyurethane sealant from a tube may be a good solution, just carefully shape and smooth it to square off the heel as it wears?
Feel free to try, but from my experience they won’t hold on with only glue. They take the full impact of your body weight. As far as filling in, I’ve never been able to do that without it looking terrible and the filled area popping off. Experiment away on a pair of cheap shoes though and see how it works!
Hey Bob, Question regarding taps, when do you recommend toe taps/heel taps. Are toe taps/ needed when you add a topy to a leather soled shoe? Getting my shoe repair routine down and want to know if I should default to taps on all my dress shoes. I wear them semi frequently.
William Emberley - honestly, I’ve never messed with toe taps because I don’t wear the tips of my shoes out. There is something called pronation and supination, having to do with having flat or high arches which will affect whether or not you wear out the tips of your toes. I believe it has more to do with how you walk than whether or not you’re using topy. I would guess that you would want to consider toe taps if you have a pattern of severely wearing out the toe area on your shoes first.
Do you center the tap on the heel? Or follow your foot anatomy/wear pattern? For example my husband pronates outward and the wear/breakdown is more on the outer edge of the heel.
No, I personally don’t. That’s covered at about 1:30 in the video, but I like to install them such that the greatest wear is on between the middle and outer nails on the heel tap.
Just bought a pair of boots from eBay. Really nice handmade but they have metal shoe/heel savers on the the heels. I haven’t tried them on yet . What will happen if I remove them? Thanks
More than likely there will be holes there from the nails. They may or may not close up a little. You could always install plastic heel taps where the metal ones were? And sorry for missing your comment!!
is it required to nail them or the adhesive is not strong enough to hold by its own? I own rick owens boots that do not have separate rubber soles, its one whole and im afraid that i might damage the pair
Niccolo Carcereny I don’t think the adhesive alone will be enough. Be warned, I’ve tried to attach them to rubber only heels (heels that do not have a leather heel base) and it’s harder to get them to nail to rubber; sometime it just won’t work.
I got gifted a pair of shoes with fully rubber heels - I love them but am worried about them wearing out early- my old faithfuls I got reheeled 5 times and lasted me years even though they were pretty worn when I first got them secondhand. Can I apply this to new fully rubber heels to make them last?
I assume you mean heels without a leather or particle leather heel base? I’m not sure. I’ve tried before, and they did not stay adhered well because the nails didn’t have a solid material to cinch into. Many soles that are all one piece with the heel molded into it are hollow.
@@CobblerBob Thanks for your reply! I do -There is no leather heel base. These feel like they are solid rubber rather than hollow from the weight of them but I suppose I wouldn't be able to tell until I try to get a tap put in. Such a shame as they are gorgeous boots and certainly were not cheap. Goodness know why they make expensive shoes so disposable!
I realize this is an old topic but wanted to know what type of guard you would recommend on a lug sole. I have a pair of Danners with Vibram soles and want to protect them. Thanks.
Robert, I just ordered those heel guards from leather care supply. What do they call that thin rubber that you applied to the sole of the shoes? Are they also available from LCS? Thanks. Keep up the great videos.
Kent pool they are Goodyear rubber protective half soles taps - I get them from eBay from the seller Nordshoe. I’m not sure if LCS sells them. I’ve got another 3video series on how to apply those ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Srz9-f5t0a4.html
The Hobby Desk JL Thank you for you kind words! I’ve honestly never used metal heel or toe plates. I’m curious about them too. With the way I walk I’m not hard on the toes, but more so on the outer edge of the ball of the foot (I’m a little duck footed bc of being a little bow legged).
Yes, but I never have put them on the toes. The other option are metal “Lulu” toe plates, or toe taps, that are cut into the leather. That’s more of a job for a professional cobbler though. Check out Bedos Leatherworks channel, he’s done a bunch of them!
Have you ever tried putting more nails into them than the 3? Do you think it would split the plastic? Mine kind of stick up in areas where the heel isn't flat
No, I honestly haven't. That is one downside to them as you just found out, you really do need to get them on before the heels really wear. If the top lifts (the layer of rubber on the heel that touches the ground) are replaceable, you can have a cobbler replace the top lifts first. If you're handy, you could buy new top lifts from eBay and replace them yourself. Just PRACTICE on a pair or two of OLD or thrifted shoes you're not afraid to destroy first. If you have a local cobbler do it, ask to see examples of his work first, as there are some hacks out there. "How to Replace Top Lifts (Heels) at Home (detailed)": ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ODsApyQ5BNo.html
Sorry for missing your comment! I do believe the nail is neccessary, but you could try it without them. Worst case, you loose a couple bucks worth of heel taps.
I’ll be completely honest with you I don’t notice a difference in the sound. Maybe it didn’t pick up the best on the video. I like them thank you for the great video.
Hello. I have a pair of shoes with dainite rubber soles. The heel has a imitation of the heel guard. Can I put the "real" or mobile heel guard over the other one. Also, is it possible to put it over a commando sole?
I apoligize for missing your comment!! The main problem I've run into is when there is no leather or compressed particle leather heel base. If there is a leather heel base under the Dainite top lift, it should work as long as the nails are long enough to get through the top lift completely and still have some length left over to grab. The main issue may be that since the heel tap will be "elevated" on that pad, the heel may be slipperier. Try it out and see. If you don't like it you can just pull them back off.
M. Kathleen - a top lift of around 1/4” thickness is very common. FYI the heel base is usually some sort of paper material, or ground up leather glued together. On high end shoes the heel base can be real stacked leather, but either way the nail/spikes the heel guards come with should be fine.
Bornagain Hard if it’s an all rubber heel with no leather heel base the nails generally will not hold and they’ll fall off. Maybe there is another way to get them to attach to an all rubber heel, but I don’t have experience or success with it.
@@luisangelflores3951 Not to steal any thunder from Robert Powers... I wear rubber heeled shoes and taps can be added. You must use taps without adhesive and use a much stronger waterproof and flexible adhesive to secure them. I use Loctite Vinyl Plastic and Fabric Glue. I give instructions on extending the life of rubber-soled shoes at splurgefrugal.com/how-to-make-your-rubber-soled-shoes-last-longer/ Thanks Robert for the excellent shoe education!
@@CobblerBob Thank you! Are threaded nails better? I don't have a shoe stand so hopefully, a Lay's container will work :) haha. Oh, one more question, when gluing (gorilla glue) the taps on my black leather boots, I accidentally got some on the boots. Any suggestion on how to remove it without ruining the leather or rubbing off the color? Many thanks!
Yes, I've seem that too. As long as they stay put there's probably no real difference. It may not look as nice, but I'm sure it's easier and faster for the Cobbler to do it that way.
Is there any advantage to metal ones? Also, can you attach them with screws, or it's gotta be nails? Nails are kind of a crude method of attachment if you ask me. :)
Andrew Piatek - I’ve never used the metal ones, it seems like they’d be slippery. And yes you could use screws. Pros usually attach metal toe plates with screws.
Hi, Robert, in your video on replacing heel lifts, you pointed out how evena slightly thicker lift could cause a misalignment of the shoe. My question is, wouldn't heel guards do the same? Or is it negligible?
Enjoy your video, as shoe repairing becomes a disappearing career, we need DIY our shoes now :( . One question, which length should be the nail ? as if my heel is about 20mm, can I use 19mm nails or should be shorter? thank you in advance.
SORRY for missing your comment!! The heel taps I've purchased always come with those pointed spikes. I wouldn't use anything longer than 1/2" or 12-13mm MAX.
Hi, I have an admittedly "less expensive" pair of boots with a rubber sole. Problem is that I pronate so wear tends to be on the medial side of the heel. Sick of all my shoes wearing down so fast and I was wondering if it would be in any way possible to attach a heel guard like this?? Thanks
Graf Aramaic - I have tried adding heel taps to a rubber soled shoe before, and they did not stay on very well. That’s interesting that you wear out the inside of the heel… I don’t really think I’m very qualified to answer this question! LOL.
@@CobblerBob Thanks for the reply, yes ultimately this is one for a podiatrist , so in the meantime I have to throw everything at the problem lol.. Just thinking on the fly, do you think that using a building comparison, one could "anchor" tiny screws into weaker material like rubber- similar to how different plugs are drilled into a wall prior to screws- depending on whether said wall is brick, metal, or wood? To be fair, I've never seen plugs or screws that small (except in mobile phones) but maybe you'll say that amount of work would disintegrate the rubber regardless- so glue could be the way to go if I insist on doing this (?) Last question (!)..following on from a reply I posted on this video- in terms of placement, and assuming I'm able to attach a heel tab to cheaper rubber, can I place it _not_ at the heel?...ie a couple of inches toward the middle of the undersole, at the "lip" of the heel?- so essentially the effect would be a back heel that appears to float some mm off the ground, and hopefully then less overall contact with the ground, without a visible tab. Thanks for any further input you can provide!!
@@thetrickisirarelyrespond5945 IMHO, I get what you're saying, and it may be able to be done, but it seems rather complicated. I personally would stay away from heel taps or the like on a leather sole, as I'm afraid it would feel like you're walking on something. That's one reason I like rubber protective half soles on a leather sole - they can be removed and replaced. A simpler solution may be just saving up for a pair of Goodyear welted shoes and getting them with Vibram or Dainite rubber soles that are relatively hard rubber and long lasting? As far as where the heel taps are placed, If its farther inside the heel it will not take the brunt of the wear and I think it would kind of defeat the purpose.
Hello! I saw different sizes of heel taps in large quantities. Before I purchase, what size do you recommend? I also saw a size 6 shoe heel which I think covers the entire heel?? Not sure if it's better than a size 5.
Richard it’s partially preference, it’s also going to depend on the size of the heel, yes larger #6 or #6A ones will cover more, you may want to just go to CVS pharmacy or Walmart and pick up a pair made by Kiwi, and you can take them home and see for yourself how you like that size. Believe the key ones are #5.
I'm sorry for missing your comment!! You could put in a shoe tree, and put a folded up towell under the back of the heel. Just make sure you're not pounding on the heel and crushing the shoe upper. You can also just sit the shoe in your lap. You could also get two pieces of 2x4 lumber nailed together standing on end.
Lucky Strike - 🤔 I guess I use #5 simply because they have worked in the past... I know there is a larger size available that I might try sometime. They’re injection molded plastic with adhesive backed... yes for what they are the ones I get from Nordshoe or Kiwi are decent quality.
Is there any issue with the nails when it comes to doing a full re-sole on them later? When you put them either at the toe or the heel? Trying not to ruin a new pair of Allen Edmonds and preventing them from being re-craftable later.
I’ve never put toe taps in, but I did have one pair of AEs re-crafted in my “Returning my New Allen Edmonds” video (they were new, but the welt stitching was messed up). I put heel taps on those shoes. I left them on when I shipped them to Allen Edmonds. They came back WITH NEW heel taps ON the new heels from Allen Edmonds, so as far as heel taps go, I can confidently say they won’t affect the recrafting ability. As far as plastic toe taps, I don’t think they would affect recrafting either. Brass Lulu style metal taps that are cut into the leather MIGHT, but that’s a guess. Video link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rsiXyF92lCI.html
I’m not sure, do you need some awful strong adhesive. Then I’d worry about being able to get them off with said strong adhesive. Anything is possible though
Nelson Aviles there is a round recessed area around the nail hole for the nail head to sit in. Also, when they’re positioned correctly on the heel, as I show in the video, the highest wear spot should be between 2 nails, not right on one.
David, i’ve heard this question a few times before. I honestly am not smart enough, nor medically qualified to tell you that they won’t cause a problem. I can say I’ve been using them for at least a dozen years with no issues, even taking 10,000 steps in a day routinely on pavement without th dress shoes on. If it really concerns you I would consult a chiropractor or MD, but I honestly don’t think the added 1/8 inch thickness of the heel taps, considering the sole, insole, and top lift itself flex, making that added thickness an insignificant difference in my opinion. That being said, if you try them and experience long-term discomfort or pain, I would remove them to be safe.
Thank you! I found the cobblers stand on Letgo, an App that connects you with local sellers selling their own personal stuff. It was old and rusty, I got it for $20 and cleaned it up and painted it.
If your heels wear fast it’s probably because you walk a lot on pavement, and it also could be the way you walk too. I believe heavier men are harder on soles and heels too.
Youngblood - yes, but that’s probably something better done by a professional cobbler. First you’d have to start with a shoe with a removable top lift, then add an extra layer of leather to the heel base to raise it. It would have to probably be wedge shaped to keep the geometry of the shoe correct, then a new top lift would have to be installed. More than likely, the old one would no longer fit because the wedge you add on would effectively make a surface area larger. So it’s not that simple. Check this related video out: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ODsApyQ5BNo.html
I believe the less wear on the heels there is when you install them, the better. The only caveat is as long as you know WHERE to place them. The more you walk with your feet out, the further towards the outside they’ll need to be placed. If you apply them to heels that are excessively worn out, it can be difficult because now you’re trying to place a flat heel guard onto a curved heel surface.
LOL, a few do keep bringing them back to me (mostly co-workers). It’s funny though, often I am the one offering them “do you need a new pair of shoes?” “Aren’t you a size (9)?”
Bob can you please share a link on ebay or amazon where to get these sole protectors? I find a lot of options and sizes and dont know which one to order
Sure?! Here are the ones I most recently purchased. www.amazon.com/SoleTech-Mini-Check-Rubber-Sole-Guard-Soling/dp/B01NBWH3C0?pd_rd_w=ngBii&pf_rd_p=a508bfed-3ba4-4a18-b6fb-1a7be6808b1e&pf_rd_r=RT2BSX6TTV3WDPRT9R56&pd_rd_r=81a71a84-8bdd-43f6-88e7-74f04230e66e&pd_rd_wg=uAhf3&pd_rd_i=B01NBWH3C0&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_rp_1_i
