Welding techniques and when to use 6010 deep penetration electrodes. Whip and pause technique, fast freeze electrode, why they are used for root passes.
I wish YOU were my welding instructor. You're calm, clear and concise in your teaching method. The course I'm in now is basically a chaotic every man for themself environment with an instructor who has never been employed in the industry that seems annoyed if you manage to track him down and ask for help. Thank you for taking the time to put this on RU-vid. Videos like this might just get me through the course.
that was one of the best explanation I have encountered for 6010 vs. other rods. everyone talks like 6010 is a special rod, there are even machines with dedicated 6010 buttons now, but no one explains why.
Thank you for good explanation, I tried 6010 electrode, whip and pause technique in ( I)shape, also tried (U) shape technique for open root and think that U technique produce better welds as it fuse sides of the bevel as become in contact with electrode and with a pause at the bottom of the U to deposit more metal. Also slightly bigger gap produced better welds because of the weld contraction when it cools off.
Thanks for making these videos on different welding rods. I'm learning a lot and hopefully when I apply this in real life it makes me better at welding. I'm thinking it will.
Very well done sir. I was hanging on every word. You have a new subscriber. I will use this information tonight for my welding class. Kudos! You time and effort is most appreciated.
Such good tips on the whip. I had not heard to be careful about the angle of the whip increasing arc length causing my issues... well one welding issue.
I was taught 7018 open on 6g position in the 70s. Did my first pipe test with 6011 root and 7018 cap 6g. I have never used 6010. In the places I worked it was all 6011 7018 or 7024 for big flat production type repairs. We only wipped the puddle when necessary. Have a great day practice makes perfect
Thanks. I've burned a ton of both, but for really pretty patchup work, 6013 is my go to. Not as strong or deep, as the 6010 but way easier to start, burn, and "stack dimes"
It’s weird. There isn’t much difference between 6010 and 6013 other than the flux. The tensile and yield strength are almost the same, carbon ditto, silicon higher in the 6013. 6013 makes a nicer weld if you ask me especially the 3/32 electrode as you can practically drag it on the surface. I read in Europe they use 6013 for root pass pipe welding. I think the best rod is the one you can do the best job with. I’m not a pro but my two cents.
Waiting for my welder to arrive and in the meantime I'm getting a head start watching videos. I really wished you had demonstrated "laying down a pad of beads".
I really like your videos, common sense and no drama. I always liked 6010, especially Lincoln 5P. It was what we used in the Air Force in the 70s. Something interesting, we had some 7016 rod in the Air Force. I had read it was a low hydrogen rod, but no iron powder in the Flux. Which is what gives 7018 its high deposition rate. Can anyone add to this 7016 comment.
I just bought a 650 amp chinese machine from a friend here in thailand (220volts). I am just a beginner, when using 6013 rod are the amps 30/60 the same as on a 150 amp machine compared to 650 amp with arc force /hot start. Thank you.
Pardon me, but with most transformer welders, as arc length gets longer, voltage drops and amperage increases. Otherwise, you are absolutely correct! You make a very concise lesson is how 6010 deposits a bead. I wish my instructor explained this to me this way 30 years ago.
That was very interesting! I have boiler pipes to replace and expect I will be using whip and pause on the root. After that I will use some 7014 or 7018 to finish up.
Teaching myself welding I have a need for high strength welding for a tractor. Just wondering if you can use 7010 the same way you use 6010??? TY in advance.
We weld steel piping for both liquid and vapor propane service, as well as some Anhydrous Ammonia piping structures.. Some of the piping is A53-A Grade B and other piping is A106 DOM material. Our root pass is 6010-5P+, intermediary and weld out caps are with 7018.
I love 6010 and 7018 both I use them almost everyday for equipment repairs in the field the 6010 like you said will dig to China on an old busted excavator boom or an under carriage on a dozer especially if you arc gouge it out nicely and use it on the root I use 1/8” 6010 and then fill and cap with 1/8” or 5/32 7018 depending on the groove I’m filling but that 6010 is a great rod and should be in everyone’s box I think
I've welded miles of 6011 using cursive "e" and a buzz box. I've used 6011 to punch holes and cut metal a lot. I'm much newer to 6010 but I find it doesn't weld terribly easy on my Alpha Tig. I know many welders have a 6010 "button". I find, I need to use a very, very tight arc with the 6010 or it goes out. Can you discuss the differences between the two rods. Is using 6011 equal to using 6010 in the eyes of the welding world or the inspection world? What is the reason 6010's are used on pipe with an engine drive welder and how is that better or different than the IGBT welders and the "6010 button" ? It appears many pipe people actually push or bend the 6010 rod as they weld, a trait that seems foreign to me as a 6011 guy.
Retired Boilermaker 35yrs under my welding hood. I stopped using 6010 after my first year in the Boilermakers apprenticeship. 6010 is junk wire for junkyard welding. When I did a texass heli-arc, I would knock the flux off 6010 to use as filler rod for 7018. Also why would you root pass with 6010 and then cap with 7018, your weld is only as strong as your root pass, so why not use 7010 for the root pass? On a side note I've worked in nuclear plants and a few have an open root tube test, the root pass is done 7018 which is way easier then that junk yard 6010 wire.
I'm in Europe and have 6013 more easy available then 6010. Would it be advisable to run 6013 with a double 7018 on top for trailer repairs, or would this be unwise as it is different to the 6010 for penetration?
I have a question and im already hear don't do it. But I kind of don't have a choice. The machine is a 110v 225amp dc inverter. The material is various bicycle frame tubing 1mm - 2mm wall thickness. Metal aluminum, alloy, and steel. I know that the aluminum and alloy frames will need ER4043 Aluminum arc electrode stick rods I'm thinking of using 3/32". Now what 1 or 2 rods do you recommend being my main go-to rods on the steel frames. I'm still think of 1 rod being a 3/32" and the other a 1/16". I know that the aluminum especially would be tig welder and I would if I had the budget. The other option is to not do it. Which isn't an option for me either. Iam having to re build my life back together piece by piece while living on the streeys. I've had people bringing me bikes to fix for a while but now I've got people asking for me to fabricate custom frames. So that I can earn some cash and get myself back off the streets I'm going to take what knowledge I have and what knowledge I can learn from everyone else and try and do what most would be saying for me not to do. 1 stick welding bicycle tubing frames. 2 stick welding aluminum period.
Ive had a go at aluminium stick welding it's not easy really hard to strike an arc and when you do get it the rod burns super fast and you really have to go like hell to keep up. The flux is like salt so it really hrd to chip of. But when you finally get it the welds can iook rally nice. So save up because your gonna need a lot of rods and a heap of ali to practice on. I reckon go for it oh and make sure you where a mask and have plenty of ventilation ali smoke like hell ant it's not something you want to get up your nose.
If you whip back with a quick freezing weld pool and slag, when you whip back , aren’t you going back over the surface/crust of the slag and reincorporating it right into the weld pool-causing contamination?
With mineral based fluxes like that on 7018 you are correct but with 6010, the flux is cellulose which is simply paper. It is light and flaky, its not really slag. This type of flux is exactly why 6010 has different characteristics than most other electrodes. Your logic is good but sometimes with welding we have to throw logic to the side. Remember welding isn't art, it is science
I hate 7018 as much as 6011. On DC 7018 strikes and holds an arc good. On AC 6011 is hard to strike an arc. Since I only have an AC welder I only use 7014 as it strikes an arc MUCH better than both 6011 and 7018. Someone gave me some 6011 rods and i found those damn things were hard to even keep an arc going. Never ever had that trouble with 7014 rods in the last 44 years. Those rods only stick a little when first striking a new rod. 6011 rods stick every damn time I try to strike an arc. I know I'll hear a bunch of advice from others that disagree but I have found this to be true for many decades.
6013 is the easiest rod to use. I've just started using 7016 twin coat rods and they are awsome can be used for root passes aswell because they are a deep pentration rod and the beads look really nice. You should try 7016 i bet you'll be using them all the time. One rod that can be used from the root pass to the cap.
@b.p.r. Weber. I don't remember seeing 7016 rods any place but I'll try them out. Hopefully they don't require d.c. current. As far as 6013 goes, it has been a while since I used them but I don't remember them as being easy to strike an arc with but are somewhat better than those stinking 6011 rods. Thanks for the info.
I'm brand new to stick welding. I got some new 7018 rods that says DC+/AC and my buzz box is only AC. Striking an arc is almost impossible and even when I get it briefly it keeps going out even when I crank it all the way up to 180 amps. Is it because my rods aren't heated? I don't keep them heated.
An old welder told me to go to 7014 rods. It made a world of difference. Can make a simple but ugly weld now. Lincoln ac only tombstone welder and RU-vid for training.
@Fred Becker. That old welder guy was right. 7014 rods strike an arc better than 6011 by far. I can't believe so many people on RU-vid brag about 6011 rods. They have been terible for welding for the 52 years I have used them. 7014 only ressist arcing when new but after the initial arc will re-arc easily. The flux breaks back from the rod tip on 6011 easily and that is why they stick so bad. Any new rod has the wire center protruding past the flux and that is why new rods stick at first but not for real-arcing.
That’s good, just need to find the welding machine that can generate the necessary voltage to burn this rods....because my Lincoln 170 S is not up to it 🤓
@@imbrandon16 thanks Sheepdog69. Turns out I got my old Canox 250 working today and it will burn 6010. Tomorrow I am heading to town to get a Miller 235 to learn how to mig weld. I dont weld much on the acreage so as nice as the 255 looks for Tig etc its a bit much for my needs..
Here in Europe we use 7018 and mostly 6013, recently i bought 6010 to try it, but i have big problem (undecut and burn through) , I do not get how people weld gaps with this rod.
6010 is a deep penetration electrode, used for all position welding but particularly for open root (gaps) welding. The flux is very different than 6013 or 7018. The technique is also different for this electrode. The whipping or whip and pause will allow you to fill gaps no problem.
What would be the issues if 6011 was used in place of 6010? I keep hearing that these two rods are so similar, that they're basically interchangeable. But no one ever does. Personally i like 6011 way better, as does my lo open circuit voltage machine.
@@phiksit What you are saying is what my experience has been with 6010 rods. I almost want to ask you to verify that you are actually talking about 6011 and not 6010 rods. What also is peculiar is that 6010 is a dcep rod and 6011 is an ac rod, dcen, and dcep. So this too points at you actually talking about 6010 rods. Also the problem you're describing points to your machine having low open circuit voltage (OCV.) 6010 rods will not work with an OCV of 63 volts (or lower) you'll need a machine with about 90 volts OCV.
I have a bunch of 6010 electrodes,look completely different from the one presented.Reddish,thin coating,close to impossible to start an arc,which goes out in 1-2 sec after starting.Yes,it is a Lincoln product.Anybody with helpful thoughts?
I can't get 1/16" 6011 rods on my small dc inverter welder to run. Goddam things won't light... just stick, stick, stick. Once I do get one started they're sort of ok, but the arc isn't real easy to keep lit. Running at 35-40 amps. I'm ok with 7013's... maybe it just takes practice. Really frustrating.
Probably 5p. 6010+++++. Yes, it's a rod. Deep red clay colored. Can't remember the specifics of the benefits, but it's the only red rod I've ever seen/used called 5p(+++++). I mainly used it on refineries building the tanks. Great for non structural, roots, and less than ideal surfaces.
You have some interesting points about 6010 that I haven't heard elswhere and they're helpful. Locally I mostly see 6011, does this behave the same way or should I look harder for 6010? I'm running a DC machine. Thanks!
Gyppor 6011 is basically the AC version of 6010. Therefore since you have a DC machine you would be better off using the 6010 rod. However 6011 does also work on DC as well.
Some new inverter machines don't allow you to run 6010. Apparently 6011 is a better alternative on those machines. Not all inverter machines refuse weld 6010, you have to check the manufacturers recommendations
They run very similar. 6010 penetrates a little bit deeper than 6011, all other things being equal, but not by much. 6010 only runs on DC Reverse and requires a little higher voltage than 6011. 6011 runs on either DC Reverse or AC. Unless you're doing root passes on pipe, buoying ships or skyscrapers, or some other "code welding" 6011 will work just as well, and is easier to find without going to the welding supply store. For most home hobby type welding you can do everything you need to do with 6011 and 6013 in 3/32" & 1/8".
@@Subway1427 Interestingly, I run an inexpensive chinese inverter and it really hates Hobart 6011. Can't keep a rod lit more than 2-3 seconds. Lincoln 6011 however runs like a champ.
