Why Your Stove Needs A Vent + Learn How To Install Your Own 

Game changer add on to my PE Neo 1.6.- warmer feet, no draughts from the older end of the house. Well worth the effort!

Good tip on using the short coupler to attach flex pipe to stove!

Easy peezy installation fella. I will have to do that to my stove. Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year too. And a many more for you and me. Peace vf

Great viedo. We were told by the wood stove company our problem was that it needed an air intake kit. After watching your video, we realized we have mostly all we need here. Thank you.

There's an advantage that you didn't speak of. Using an outside air vent causes the heat from the stove to 'pressurize' the room, which then 'pushes' against all the leakage spots, keeping the cold air from entering. You could use the pressure differential to direct warm air to a back bedroom by 'cracking' a window there. Do a smoke test and see. @@

Thanks man I really appreciate you taking the time to make this video. I thought I needed a specifiv type of kit! Thanks again!!

thanks Yet we have a wood burning furnace in our basement. I was told that we need more outside air in order for the wood to burn. Naturally we have flue pipe.

One one winter after taking out the Siegler oil fired heater that previously used the walled up fireplace to exhaust combustion gases. My mom started a fire in the fireplace and then we found out how badly the house leaked air. While the fireplace was warm cold drafts from all over the house were flowing along the floor to the fireplace. The oil fired heater used forced air to blow unheated air through a firebox and out the heater floor vent. The stove pipe had some kind of inlet damper that would regulate the amount of air to enter to get a good draft going up the stovepipe and would oftentimes provide a lull you to sleep sound as the damper door would with regularity make that tapping sound.

We owned a Thelin-Thompson wood stove, inside was a "J" tube which was connected to outside air. I could burn 1-2 cords of Lodgepole pine before having to remove the ash. The "J" tube was in effect like a steel coke furnace super-heating the cold air so that "HOT" air feed the fire and it worked great.

Makes me miss winter in the woods!

This is exactly what I needed. Thank you!

Very good info👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻thank you......would it be useful to fit a regulator on the outside air inlet so a as to control burn rate????......

I did this to a 84 lopi by creating a extension for the 2" x4" intake openings Extended the intake to clear the bottom air motor feeds forb around the firebox [ its an insert ] Oh what a difference in this drafty old farm house. Be sure to get the dryer vent inlet that doesnt have flaps, or you wont draw air

I will be installing my fresh air intake tomorrow, only flaw I see in yours is the outside dryer vent. It is closed unless air is pushing out. Just saying as an appliance business owner lol. Nothing with flaps.

I understand that having a ventilation system would be good, but I can't make holes in the wall behind my stove because it's made of fire-resistant bricks. However, I've decided to make use of a window located slightly higher than the stove, measuring around 130 by 100 centimeters. During winter, the entire window is shielded for insulation. The air between the window and the insulation shield gradually cools, and the cold air flows downward. To address this, I've directed this cold air accumulation into a flexible pipe with a 10-centimeter diameter, releasing it behind the wood stove. To monitor the airflow, I've attached wind streamers to the end of the pipe for visual confirmation. Additionally, since the insulation shield on the window is flexible, I can also open and close the window. Depending on the weather and temperature, I sometimes leave the window slightly open by about 1 to 2 millimeters.

I dont have one of these. Just a traditional masonry fireplace. It smokes inside even after i get s good draft going. Once i crack the door that all goes away. Unfortunately it its -10 and we lose power that isnt realistic. Im looking inti doing something like this for my fireplace to see id that helps

hello, I have a tin fireplace and it has vermiculite inside, wouldn't it give and retain heat longer if I replaced it with chamotte? I understood that vermiculite has an insulating role.

Won't a unit fan draw air from the house rooms ? There by minimize the advantage of a fresh air intake ? I hope I'm wrong. Thanks for the video

i just got a stove with one of these openings on the back,can i can it and is it safe to cap it?

Probably want to add a way to "throttle" the intake air so as not to burn wood way faster then just wide open...

Dude, come to my house and vent my stove, please! Have a horrible back draft problem, hoping this will fix it!

Pictorially, show the vent, through a timber. Sharp square cut gap. Just angle the cut to easy the bend, through , less chance of splits.

It is really simple really. For every cubic foot of air that goes up your flue or chimney, a cubic foot of air is pulled through cracks and gaps around your house. So unless you provide a way for air to enter the stove directly from the outside, it will pull that freezing air into the house from all over the house which effectively cools everywhere in the house. And if the house is new and really tightly insulated, the woodstove will not draw enough air to even work at all. I don't know why this is so misunderstood.

Question: Could you take the fresh air from the outer layer of the roof above? The air gap between the outer roof and the insulation… Or am i thinking in the wrong direction here?

Maybe a passive net zero house, but I leave my door cracked anyway lol

Trouble with mine it's in a existing brick fireplace 😞

yes but how do you regulate the amount of air going into the stove? It seems like it would be hard to bank the stove and it would burn way too hot, consuming more wood

This is how I brought in out side air that I pre heated and replaced the inside air with fresh outside air. I dont agree with using cold out side air directly into your fire box, yes it will burn hotter but it will also burn faster. I wanted a longer burn time that was consistent so I opted to let it breath room temp air and it works awesome. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9g1wRjU4uyQ.htmlsi=UR2UCYPh768jA-jg

Did your landlord yell at you for making the wrong hole the first time ? lol

Two questions: why is the chimney not enough of a vent? in your opinion are wood stoves safe to use in an RV? for reference, we only have a chimney for air intake and door of wood stove isn't fully "sealed". How to prevent CO buildup in RV? Just install an air intake to stove? Sorry for lengthy question, I know this isn't Reddit.. 🙄🙈

I've never seen a house, camp or any other enclosure tight enough that it restricted air supply to a wood stove, but I've only been burning wood for 60 years in 5 different houses and numerous other camps, cottages. Don't believe what some Engineers say, and, yes I am an Engineer. There are many other reason why a wood burning appliance won't burn properly which have a much greater effect.

The landlords will be happy with your poor workmanship.

Unless you're really desperate to keep heat inside your house this is unnecessary. Besides a stove is a great way to ventilate your house of stale air

There is less oxygen in winter than summer.

I dont need nottin

Dude all material you use are toxic when they are under heat😂😂😂😂