@4:26 - it uses an inverter because it has a direct current compressor which uses half as much power to cool compare to alternate current compressor. Inverter AC are found in more expensive models ($100- $300 more) but well worth it and will save a lot of money in the long run if the unit is in use often ( it pays for itself within 3 years in hot and humid Texas for example ).
I was just about to say the same. Thank you for this video, very informative. There is very little info out there about heating, I got nervous about the 41 degree comment as well. I'm a little bit concerned about the installation process / insulation / winter, considering Boston will get cold. Thankfully this is only going to be used for my small bedroom, which is about 120 sq ft.
@@jacquesvidal4292 I got this off of Amazon for $20. It does the job. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CLTTX68D/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Given I drop the whole house temperature at night, this space heater just needs to maintain a few degrees of temperature differential in the bedroom at night so it doesn't have to run much to do it. This winter I'm going to test relocating the heat pump's hose outlet temperature sensor to see if that will allow the heat pump to run at lower outdoor temperatures as I've seen reported.
A large B&D model was my only heat for about 2 years when I had no furnace. in a 3 bedroom home. It began to loose the battle around 40F but With constant running, I kept the house at 66-68 all winter. I used the envi wall heater to supplement it. It was rought at times but I made it Glory to Jesus Christ. Now that iv moved I route the exhaust for this threw my woodstove and seal with a old blanket. It keeps the house at 70 with little effort. In a new manufactured 3 bedroom house
Very good review, you hit a lot of good points that i was concerned about. I appreciate the time you made for this video. Keep up with the videos and product reviews
I prefer a radiator heater, light, quiet, efficient and cheap. As for AC I have a Midea 8k with inverter, so it has a soft start, super quiet and super duper efficient. Love it!
I have a Midea mini-split which works well. That provides heating and cooling for an addition to the house. I assume you are referring to either a portable or window unit.
wish the midea had a saddle option with AC and heat pump for window. I understand they are working on one and so is Gradient per what I heard from Matt Ferrell on his channel. I want a small mini split that I can use in a window and take with me...
I tried to hook up the adapter for the drain hose. It didn't fit the drain hose that you showed that was connected. Did you just take out the grey plug and force the hose over the port? DId anyone figure out where the adapter fits -- top, middle or lowest drain plug?
Thanks, I just bought one. The instructions are pretty bad, but it’s working. Can’t really figure out the remote, some buttons don’t seem to do anything, like fan speed. I can control it from the main panel, but not with the remote. Not sure how Auto mode is supposed to work. Seems to just run full blast no matter what the temperature is set to.
There are algorithms which frequently modify/adjust the operation which at times appear counter-intuitive. This can sometime be confused with a malfunctioning unit.
I just ordered one of these without the heat pump. Don’t need it in Florida. I haven’t received it yet. Bought it to alleviate some stress on my central air in my main room which is 600 ft2.
How is the drainage? I am looking to use one in my shed this summer but am wondering how quickly the condensate builds up. These are supposedly self evaporating
Since I installed mine, I don't think it has drained 1 oz of condensate. I have tubes running from both drains to a 1 gallon plastic jug (Arizona Ice Tea). I have never had to empty it.
thank, you just the clarification I needed regarding ambient temperature vs. Outdoor Air Temperature (OAT) What is the coldest OAT you have used it during?
Mine works well until the outdoor temperature drops below 37F . Between 32 and 36F it cycles on and off very frequently so you get short bursts of heat. Below 32 forget it. Right now I use an electric space heater in that bedroom if the temp is going below 37F outside. Since I only need to raise the temperature of the room a few degrees the electric heater doesn't run that much. This winter, I'm going to try relocating the temperature sensor, which is located at the hose vent inlet. I read online that putting that sensor away from the hose inlet will allow it to continue to heat when the outdoor temperature is in the 20's. If that works I will then wonder why they have it designed not to work at those temperatures.
Just bought one of these and will be using it in a double hung window. I can't figure out the purpose of the round air outlet adapter that you put on the exhaust hose. It looks like it is supposed to snap into something else but there is nothing for it to do so. Any clues to why this piece is included?
I remember being confused by that, too. It has been a long time since I installed mine, but I think it adapts the hose end to the window panel hole. I can't remember if the need for it depends on whether the panel is mounted horizontally or vertically, depending on what type of window you have.
I use it for supplemental heating/cooling in my bedroom. It works well except it doesn't heat well when the outdoor temperature is below 37F. There is supposed to be a hack to improve that, but I haven't tried it yet. U shaped window heat pumps should be available soon. These should be more efficient, quieter, and hopefully heat at lower outdoor temperatures. If you need it portable and need it today, it is probably as good as you can get for a portable heat pump.
They are beginning to come out with those soon, but the specs don't look too impressive yet. I expect inverter heat pump technology to eventually become the new standard for window units. They are shaped like an upside-down "U," with the compressor on the outside. It allows you to open and close the window with the unit installed.
Is there a special line for the heat pump drain? I used the wider diameter line that came with it and it’s not pumping the water out. So I’m having to drain after the PI error. I notice yours looks like a smaller drain line.
Yvonne, yes, there are 3 drain lines. Bottom center drain is to totally drain unit for storage/moving. Top center drain (optional to use) for cooling mode. Right bottom drain (as you are facing the back of the heat pump) for heating mode. Heating mode only has a built in condensate pump so you it doesn't depend on gravity. Each drain port has a rubber plug to seal the port and a threaded plastic cap to further secure the rubber drain plug. I suspect you haven't connected to the correct drain port.
@@arnoldsolof yes I do have it in the correct port. The company states I should Hear a click when I put the line in, I don’t which is why I was wondering if there was a different drain line since the diameter on yours appeared smaller. The company sent me detailed directions to take apart and check all interior connections. It looks like fun lol. Thanks for your reply.
The hose is 12" X 5 1/2 ". The hose panel width is adjustable. The panel can be installed horizontally or vertically, depending on how your window opens. I don't understand the difference between horizontal and wide in your description. Are you using wide to describe the top to bottom measurement of the window?
A normal 15 or 20 amp circuit is fine, provided you aren't drawing a large amount of power from other devices on the same circuit at the same time. Lights and TVs, etc. should be no problem.
Thank You for the video. I tried to turn on my heat but the unit is not working. The AC works, but the heat does not kick on. It was working a few days ago. Its like 32 degrees F in NYC today. Any suggestions? Thank You
The algorithms the unit uses, especially in heat mode, seem less than straightforward. In heat mode, if the coils freeze, the unit will temporarily stop heating and blow room air over the coils to thaw them and then the unit will start heating again. The colder it gets outside, the sooner and more frequently the coils freeze. Last night it went down to 20F and it spent so much time thawing the coils it wasn't heating the room much. You must have the heating mode condensate hose drain installed. That is a different hose connection than the air conditioning condensate drain. I'm not sure, but I suspect if the condensate pump can't empty the condensate reservoir it will turn off the compressor.
There are a few things to keep in mind. These units usually have a 3 minute delay between turning them on and the compressor starting, usually to avoid stalling the compressor under high head pressure if it was running previously. Second is that these things produce large amounts of water when in heating mode, and unlike in air conditioning mode, they can't evaporate it into the outgoing air stream. It has to be dumped, and in heating mode the water only forms on the lower heat exchanger and thus the lower drain tap. This means you really need to boost the unit up on a stool or low table and either drain it into a bucket (extremely inconvenient) or into an "HVAC condensate pump" which can then force the condensate high enough to run it out the window. Or boost the unit up high enough so that the bottom drain port is higher than the bottom of the window. If the condensate tank fills with water, the software will definitely refuse to heat (or cool). The defrost is what really concerns me with these units. I don't know if they have a true defrost cycle, though I really hope they do. A defrost usually consists of stopping all fans, slamming the reversing valve (a big whoosh), melting the ice, slamming the reversing valve again, and going back into heating while restarting the fans. A lack of a defrost cycle would make it virtually unusable in a cold climate. Another thing is that the outlet temperature of many heat pumps falls as the outdoor ambient temperature falls. So at 0F, it may have an outlet temperature of 90F, which feels cool if blown on human skin (like a breeze on a hot day), even though it is still technically heating the house. I'm curious how these work out, so both of you keep me in the loop as to how well these do this heating season.
@@gregorymalchuk272 The unit reviewed here has a condensate pump built in that works only in heating mode. So you don't need another condensate pump for that, but you DO need to unplug the heat mode drain cover and run a hose from that somewhere (I drain mine into a 1 gallon jug). You could run the drain hose out the window. You don't need to elevate the unit for that because of the built-in condensate pump.
Thank you for the review. I was looking for an indept review like this. However, you said you paid $563.65 for your unit but all the adverts I see currently price it for $733.00 or there about please kindly let me know from which store you bought yours.
@@davanchike9326 Amazon ( Amazon.com Services LLC) . I see it is listed for $730 now. Maybe you can use a price watcher like CamelCamelCamel and get it when the price dips.
@@DuongTran-ph8xg Yes, the bottom hose that drains via the built-in condensate pump is removable. There are 3 hoses in total: 2 clear polyethylene or vinyl type hoses for the upper and lower drains. The big hose vent double tube that vents to the window. They all can be disconnected. If the clear drain hose is stuck, you could heat it gently with a hair dryer on low setting (don't get it too hot because you might damage it). The hose will soften when heated and be easier to attach and remove. I didn't need to heat mine.
Yes. I just wish it would heat effectively when the outdoor temperatures are lower than 37F. Cooling never is a problem. Although I have it draining into a 1-gallon bottle, it never seems to need it.
