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In my past life as a diesel mechanic I used to crank an engine over until it built oil pressure and THEN put fuel to it after doing major engine work. I also like that you recognize that the only proper way to load test a generator is with a heater(s). I don't know how many times I watched a small engine shop test a generator with an electric drill. It's not even a stable or consistent load! Anyway it's nice to see an engine not (destroyed) by: EGR, SCR, DPF filters and other emission control equipment that has all but put the trucking industry on it's knees begging the EPA for mercy. That urea REALLY raises hell with sensors and eats the associated wiring as well. Stranded wiring makes a nice wick into the many ecu's on over the road vehicles. Thanks for showing and it looks like a really nice unit. It should last a really long time at 1800 rpms. Take care.
Mmmhh, even though I'm an electronics guy, I'm currently working on 30-60yr old diesel equipment(company needs to build a storage facility and the only stuff we can afford are basically broken antiques). We even had a museum ask to switch bulldozers because theirs is 15 yrs younger. All machines have some kind of deutz diesel engine, which is a breeze to work on(well except for lifting out stuff, but the same would apply to modern machines). I could go to the deutz service center and get parts for a 60+yr old engine without issue and now it's running again. Meanwhile my car is in limp mode for half a year now because they they used 5 different sensors for one model(yes, with that engine from that year) and it has to be reset and calibrated and all sorts of stuff. I'm not even old enough to say it, but I really get the, "Back in my day..." mentality of the older generations.
As occurring auto mechanic I have to agree that I've seen so many times people just crank over new motors or rebuilt motors without disconnecting fuel or spark and not building any type of oil pressure and just starting it and letting the clacking go away after 10 seconds. Hell of a way to break in a motor
@@MrMersh-ts7jl Rebuilt or new engines have assembly lube on bearing surfaces. Clacking is just hydraulic lifters taking time to start pumping up. Nothing is metal to metal grinding away like you might imagine though. Idling is very low load; just enough fuel and air to keep the crank spinning.
In my shop we used electric cook tops as a load bank. Each one was good for around 7,000 watts @ 240 volts. I also had a box of old fashion hair dryers @ 1,500 watts each. The problem with using a drill or pump is you don't have the full draw unless you have a way to load them consistently. Electric heaters are the way to go.
Love the Radio collection on the shelves in the Garage! My grandfather had a large wooden cabinet radio in the rafters in his Garage and he had a series of cables and pulleys to control the volume and tuner from his workbench. I remember thinking how cool it all was as a child!
@@strangersound Yes he did! I'm almost jealous enough to move to New Hampshire and partake of those yard sales. I would love a box like that, even with the cleanup job.
Baldwin Filters are an excellent choice... very well made. I hope that beast can help you with your power outages, and keep things going when the grid isn't participating.
I don't know why, but I was pretty sure it was going to run. LOL I live in the PNW and the windstorms here, have at times, taken the power out for 4 or 5 days. A generator like that would be a handy thing to have. Nice work.
Of course it's going to work, it's in Mr Carlsons Lab. The title should be "How good is it going to run?" 45kw is a heck of a load too, can't wait to see that test, the place is going to get real warm real fast! Reminded me of a friend of mine who has a smaller Kubota diesel generator and some diesel farm equipment. He got into making his own bio-diesel from waste oil from restaurants about 15-20 years ago.. started out with a few gallons now he has several 600 gallon tanks usually full of the stuff.. never short of fuel.
Awesome little genny! Actually I have found for a homestead back up generator. Go to an auction and pick up a larger light tower. They have great little Kubota diesels, you can pick them up for a song. Cut the tower off a bit of re wiring and you have a great back up genny that’s low noise, easy to move around and holds a good amount of fuel
4:44 If the genset is bolted to the floor (at some point, in the future), then there's no need to have the control panel attached to the genset and moving around like that. Only reason would be relative motion of the wiring, but that could be overcome with suitable routing. Therefore, maybe..., perhaps..., possibly..., ...rig-up a floor mount for the control panel so that it doesn't vibrate with the genset.
the control is built to handle that so no worries. It's also mounted on rubber feet. No sense in reinventing the mousetrap on a set that will probably go 40 years or more as is.
I'm at the point just before you try starting it and I'm nervous because you haven't mentioned filling the radiator. Not relevant (I'm old and memories happen when they happen) but 20 years ago I paid a Mechanic (probably should be lower-case mechanic) to rebuild the engine of my 1967 Mustang and when the work was completed he trailered it to my home, started it and it froze within a minute or so because he forgot to put oil in it. He took it home, repaired it, retrailered it and brought a woman with him who wanted to buy it and I just gave it to him to sell to her and that would pay for the rebuild because I knew he really needed money. I'd been to his home out in the desert so I knew. (Sorry. this might be the last time I remember that part of my life.) Wife and me/I had a good laugh watching you try to keep your finger on the red button. Really good laugh.
I just now 30 mins ago checked your channel and on the last video it said "2 weeks ago" and now this... weird how the universe does that. Congrats on the generator :)
I like the filter upside down and bone dry! That way you can avoid a gusher spilling all over the place and on your hands as well when changing the oil. Let it drain into the crankcase. That's a nice feature!
You might want to check out early Chrysler slant 6 oil filter methodology. The oil filter mounting boss, incorporated a stand pipe, that kept the filter mostly full. Time to get out the tig torch.
the proper oil filter has an anti-drainback diaphram in it. there are multiple kubota filters that will screw on there but only one correct one. oh and the right one is about 1/3 more pricy.
@@ivankirola2707 Yes. But after that we saw the Jerry can sitting on the floor unconnected. And you can not bleed the system by opening the pipes at the injectors and operating the fuel feed pump. It doesn't work like that.
The filter may be filtering the oil on the return to the oil pan. In that case it doesn't matter it drains since the oiling system gets oil and pressure and then flows through the engine before it gets to the filter. So it being empty really only matters when you remove it and it doesn't spill oil out of it.... 🙂
10 seconds in, having been watching your channel for a long time, Yes, Yes i think it will run, and run well too! Now to press play and see if i'm right or wrong :P
Nice gen-set. I'm curious what the running oil psi is and the governed rpm. That Baldwin BT347 does have an anti-drainback valve, but unless your filter mount has a long center pipe, the oil will still drain out from the center of the element. If it does, you're good to go!
I'd be tempted to put an AccuSump on that generator. Or a cheaper option, just relocate the filter so that it's always filled. Gotta love the nice hum of a 4-pole 1,800rpm generator.
Very nice !!! All those heaters should draw a LOT of current. I'm really interested to see exactly how much. I'm guessing that would melt an off the shelf extension chord. Let's see how Mr Carlson handles that.
There is an anti-drainback valve in the oil filter housing. It must have sat for a long time. If you exercise the unit every 30 days there won’t be a problem with the oil draining back to the pan.
Hello Paul, I'd like to offer a suggestion... you may want to consider relocating the muffler to the frame and adding a flexible pipe between them. Under load, the vibration may become to much for the current setup.
I absolutely agree! This is how it came, and I dont like the weight of the muffler being supported by the exhaust manifold. I will TIG weld a flex pipe to a stationary muffler.
Price out stainless steel flex pipe and galvanized. In the trucking industry I've personally found the stainless flex pipe lasted FAR longer and it was $2 more for a 24" piece at one place I worked. It was so much better that I could reuse it when changing other exhaust components. @@MrCarlsonsLab
I think everyone is using red and blue these days to venerate the eclipse. They're two ends of the visible light spectrum, added together they make purple, crowns of ancient egypt, hemoglobin and hemocyanin, dawn and dusk, sun and moon. It also could be a form of (unconsciously) paying tribute to Lilith and Selene, two aspects of the creator of this dream world.
Those little engines will last a long time.Some didn,t have a water pump and used a thermal siphon. I saw them used in the oil field that ran 24 7 reliably.
On the top of the CAV DPA fuel injection pump are two levers, the one on the left is the throttle lever and the one on the right is the stop lever. The stop lever is in the run position, so if you want to rotate the engine without it starting up, turn the stop lever clockwise, this with cut the fuel off.
Now the next step is to locate it in its own power room outback somewhere; complete with its own diesel storage and elevated exhaust outlet to further reduce the sound. Just sayin 😂 Great vid and it purrs like a kitten.
If the oil filter is of the by-pass type it does not matter that it drains out, if on the other hand it is a full flow design then that is a pitifully way to have it set up, as it will ensure rapid engine wear and I would look at relocating the oil filter.
As if there was any question! 😉 Good one Paul, well done. Looks like the engine block has been rebuilt/cleaned/painted, pristine and shiny. Maybe remount that muffler with flex. Very nice, no power worries now, geothermal should work like a champ and any other power needs without the lights dimming. Another Mr C's expert class restore, expect nothing less, thanks. 73
Good work Paul. Nice machine! Looks like a real powerhouse. Pardon the pun lol. I have never in my life seen an upright oil filter. It's very counterintuitive. Is it 50 or 60 Hz up there?
using dc assistance with those lithium titanate cells would produce an extended boost and do a fast recharge to be ready again , im using lithium iron (200 ah, 24v , 20 ah drain) and they give 10-14 hr non sun runtime with a hr charge time , 20 ah li titanate gives up to 750 amps compressor starting power ...
Hi Mr Carlson! I’m currently building a project 1974 260Z, and I’m currently replacing my seemingly failed ignition controller with a GM high energy ignition module. I would absolutely love a Mr Carlson’s Lab explanation of how these modules take a magnetic pulse from the distributor and use it to control the ignition coil because you go into such amazing technical detail! Would you make such a video, or point me to the answers I seek? I know THAT it works, but I want to know how! Thank you!
So Paul, it looks like a nice generator. I noticed that the exhaust pipe has pipe fittings on it. So, could you add more pipe and vent it to the outside, therefore not needing the doors open? Just like big whole building generators are installed.
Nice to see the generator working, Paul. Are you planning to connect it to the house grid, so it will start automatic if you get a power-out? 73 LB5JG Asle
All I can say is your neighbors must be a million miles away! In the quite of a large power outage, I would be royally ticked off if I heard that thing start running anyplace within blocks or maybe hundreds of yard from me!
I caught myself nodding in agreement/happiness when it started and you gave the thumbs up!!!! LOL - I hate when I do stuff like that - LOL.....awesome work....
Love this series! Heaters are such a great load! Also halogen bulbs. I have a handful of ceramic heaters that I use to load down my portable generators at least once a year because they don't get used very often and then a home sized residential electric furnace works very well as a larger generator load because you can just engage the different coils as necessary and it already has a big fan to cool them off! Neatly packaged in a square box that you can easily move along with a hand cart when needed! Plus everyone's given those things away for free because they're so expensive to run because they were a little more inefficient than newer technology but when you're looking for a load for a generator it's perfect!
Smooth running. Fantastic job. BTW What's the best way to store its battery if you're not going to use it for several months? When I was a kid there was debate over whether or not to leave lead-acide batteries on a trickle charger, thoughI imagine the ideal may not be the same for different types of batteries. Again, thanks for sharing your adventures.
Really depends on the battery quality, and right now the quality is really all over. I have left batteries sitting (un attached) for two years, and they are still fine (holding a good charge), and others self drain in months. I completely disconnect the batteries when not in use, then top them up (charge them) about every 3 to 6 months to maintain them.
@@MrCarlsonsLab for a few bucks you can get a battery maintainer, which is necessary with those digital controls because they do have a constant draw when set to the auto-start mode. BTW, all the new ones are "smart" so they will not run constantly. (parasitic line draw) This is now a dept of energy requirement. The problem we ran into was the older units did maintain well, but the new ones will sense a problem and shut the charger off in a day or so, leaving you with a dead battery. The cure is to step up the size to around a 10 amp capacity (more money) so the charger can cycle off and not go into trouble mode.
You probably know this, but most commercial standby generators include a block heater set at around 55 degrees during all seasons just to reduce engine wear when it cold starts with a heavy load and immediately revs up.
On Large slow speed ship Diesel engines we keep them about 140 deg F all the time when not running . Use a steam boiler to heat the jacket water . Reduced thermal stress on the engine . Engine is three stories high and replacing one may mean scrapping the ship .
1..those about the obsolute worst cable terminal ends to have near a lead acid battery... 2.. many diesel engines have a compression release so you can crank them over to build pressures and blow out any condensed moisture before starting... 3.. plumb exhaust to dump several feet away from and higher than any openings....closed are or not...diesel exhaust isn't bad as gasoline, but following the same exhaust safety is best practice
Nice job! Boy, we'd get to the moon, fix the silicone solar cell efficiency problem, figure out how to end world hunger, and who knows what else in a few years if you were my neighbor! Great video! So happy it worked! Sounds like it's running pretty smoothly too! Can't wait to see the video with it loaded up!
Ah, takes me back to my days in the Air Force as a ACW Radar repairman which covered all the Radar equipment and not just the electronics of a high power Radar site.
i don't understand why some people think they have to prime a oil filter if your worried about air getting in the engine think of this the pump pulls the oil from the pan pushes it through the galleries and flows over the valve cam shaft push rods and the at the same time its splashing and mixing in air with the oil
It's the lack of oil under load at first start that does damage. You need to establish the hydrodynamic wedge before load occurs. This is the magic of shell bearings, and why they hardly wear when oil pressure is kept up.
Paul. Please consider using inverter heat pump(s) instead of hooking that behemoth to your house. I can start (simultaneously) and run 8 tons (2x48kBTU) of condensing units with my 15k NG genset with absolutely no problem. Also these condensing units significantly outperform 14-16 seer alternating current units in reverse/heating mode, and by a mile when cooling. I'm not sure what Canada allows but here in the states the first company out of the gate is the "Mr. Cool Universal" brand which are just rebadged Medea/Gree units. These universal units don't require communicating thermostats, so you can simply DIY replace the outdoor unit only if your AHU/Indoor coil is in good shape (and preferably uses a TXV). They also sell pre-charged line sets with flare fittings and internal pintle valves, or you can solder on the included flare adapters, evacuate and done. Another option is to install a hybrid VFD in your existing unit that soft starts the compressor, dramatically reducing the inrush current required to start the PSC motors. Two brands of those are Micro-air and Emerson electric. The inverter heap pumps I use significantly reduced my utility bills, take up much less space and they are super quiet. All the major HVAC brands in North America are about to start selling inverter condensing units with matched AHU or furnaces. They should reach lofty numbers ~ 22 seer2, and all can start on small gensets with no tricks. The DC motors in mine start at very low speed and usually fun no more that %60 RPM. FWIW before some of the HVAC techs (and others) that don't know what they are talking about, or are afraid these units are going to destroy thies jobs comment, I'm not talking about ductless mini-split units. These are full split central HVAC systems. Also these machines are dramatically cheaper than major brands.
Mr. Carlson's heat pump is ground-source. An air-source outdoor unit would be a huge downgrade. Adding a VFD to the existing compressor would be a much smarter option.
@@eDoc2020 Thanks I didn't realize that. I'm sure it's just a matter of time before the compressors in water loop or even DX units go inverter, even if for for the ability to start on a genset/solar. Imagine the efficiency of a DX HP with an inverter drive. Almost free if mostly powered by solar. I have seen some vague references to completely DC condensers designed to run directly off the batteries on a solar installation. Something even more interesting is some of our Telcom data centers and switch offices are gearing to go high voltage DC (HVDC), delivered directly from the utility. It turns out that if you can eliminate the ac/dc conversions in all our modern electronics, the savings in avoiding those conversion and PF losses can sometimes overcome transmission difficulties. So in the end Edison may prove to have be right after all...
