When installing hydraulic fittings/lines I’ll thread in the hydraulic lines before bolting down the valve or whatever using. That way you’re not fighting getting the threads in straight. Then bolt up your valve..
That’s a good tip , starting lines in a fixed object is likey a habit from being an automotive tech , lol we don’t get to remove things to start fittings. Thanks for watching , cheers
@@dodge-ut6ti If you use any off the shelf open center 2 way valve for your 2 way remotes, it WILL most likely have a relief valve in it. Most come pre-set at around 2,000 PSI so you will not damage any components down line. It may be a bit slow, because the Allis pump is a low volume pump.
@@dodge-ut6ti I just wrote about 4 paragraphs on a facebook Allis page on how to do it. I'll see if I can find it again. Here is what I posted. It's not hard to do, and you will be happy to be able to still use the lift arms one day. If you want to still be able to use the lift arms and single remote, you have to start by putting in a diverter valve. Connect both lift arm cylinders to one side of the diverter valve, and connect the other side of the diverter valve to a new, 2 way open center valve. Plug the original Allis valve (on top of the pump), where one cylinder was connected and use the other port to feed pressure to the diverter. You can leave the solid line to your original remote the way it is, and it will work as original when you divert to the lift arms. Then plumb the return of the new valve back to the reservoir. Now all you have to do is add quick connects to the new 2 way valve for your 2 way cylinder connection. The diverter will switch from the new 2 way valve,or to the lift arms and original remote. When using the new 2 way valve, the lever behind the steering wheel will have to stay UP and with the open center new valve, will just dump back to the reservoir without forcing the unloader valve to hammer.
If you have Power Crater pistons in a WD 201cu in engine with the original 4 inch stroke crankshaft, you will have LOWER compression and LESS horse power. Power Crater pistons were used with the WD45 crankshaft which is 4.5 inch stroke and is 226 cu in.
@@ontariovintagetractor So that's where the "45" came from for the WD45 model name, the amount of added stroke. The manifold was also another big improvement on the 45s. Better air flow in/out, which it looks like you have (mine has the older style that I'm planning to 'upgrade').
I HAVE A WD45 I would like to use on a 1475 gehl round baler if I can hookup modern hydraulics.I have a ford 860 that works good on the baler. Going to try it on the haybine next.
Does the wd45 have any type of filter or ckball for the hydraulic pump?I lost all hydraulics on mine,and I'm thinking of pulling the pump,any ideas would help.thanks,great video
Hey there , there is no filter , in my experience most hydraulic issues I’ve had were failed valves on top of the pump , hope this helps , thanks for watching
Hi, thanks for this. I've got a series 1 D17, and I'd like to do this same thing. However, aren't the 3 point arms going to be up all the way the whole time that you engage the hydraulics from the lever above the steering wheel? Am I missing something here?
@@ontariovintagetractor Thanks for your response. It doesn't interfere with your baler, but I want to put a post driver on the 3 point. the power to pushes the driver up, and then it dumps the oil back to the sump and gravity pulls it down. But I need the 3 point arms down though so that the driver frame sits on the ground and just the driver weight is pushed up by the single spool it uses. It looks like my only option is something called a selector valve that allows you to divert oil to the remote implement instead of the 3 point...thanks, let me know if you have any other ideas please. nice video, no problem with the sound
@@mileswizbo8960 yes you are correct i forgot my revision that’s on the tractor now , I have a shut off valve to the spool valve that when I want to go back to single phase hydraulics I shut off the flow to the spool valve
It’s tough to do with a WD because of the way the hand crank system goes through the steering box. If it’s Been done , I’d love to see a good example as I have a pump to do it with
Hey there , I’m not entirely sure , I don have a wealth of knowledge with the D series yet. Check out the Allis charmers tractors group on Facebook , theres some very knowledgeable people there. Cheers
An ac tractor is high pressure low volume hydraulics compared to a ford or modern hydraulics that are high volume low pressure are the hoses and cylinders go to hold up under the higher pressure. I don't know the answer, but I've been told that it will not hold up. It looks to me that it lifts the gate good lm going to try it with a wd45 , Let me know if you have trouble from the higher pressure. Thanks
I’ve got two WD45s, and I just bought the second one. I’ve got to ask, do you know what the appeal is for WD45 engines to be swapped for WD engines aside from bolt on when the D-17 gas engine will fit as well? Reason I ask is the 2nd has a WD engine where the first one will be getting a D-17 engine when I get around to fixing a few minor things. Love seeing you use these old workhorses.
@@happyjohn8256 hey John , yes there is, before the WD45 , there was the WD , WD had a 201ci engine , WD45 had a 226ci engine , as well as some other features that were different from the WD. Thanks for the question . We appreciate the conversation, cheers friend !
