Just to confirm and make things totally clear, I never climbed the full crux (I climbed the crack,the 'easy' part to the crux). And I will never climb the full route, it's way out my league 😂👍
@@WideBoyzStefano actually said “Pete can cruise the crack part”. Crack and crux sound very similar with his accent. You’re a beast though, Pete, you and Tom both! Much love from a disabled follower in the U.S.
Grades of hard climbs seem ALWAYS to be "in flux" downward as subsequent ascents unearth different betas which suit different body sizes, types and strengths; it may even be that, on rare occasions, an FA which particularly suits the "opener" may repel others who generally climb at that level and get rightly upgraded. 🙏
When the first says it is 9c and the seconds says it is 9b+ than a third is necessary to confirm their opinion. Otherwise nothing is confirmed , only that it is at least 9b+ , 2 proposals are too less ! :)
Given how long he’s been projecting this route and how much he’s struggled posing this question is laughable. Upgrade possibility was the correct question.
Well this came from him talking about finding new beta that made the crux easier for him to do than Adam’s beta. But yeah, I agree, probably more likely to see an upgrade! He’s working on it again soon, I think he’s gonna get it. Psyched for him!
B.I.G. will be eventually downgraded. This is my take. I do not think B.I.G. is as difficult as DNA or Silence, and the reason is that Jakob sent the route relatively too quickly, and even though he is very strong, he is no stronger than Stefano or Adam, who spent already more time on Silence, or Seb, who spent ages on DNA. Maybe they will say 9b+/9c or soft 9c, like it has been done with a few boulders. But it will be downgraded, mark my words.
I would agree, for your arguments and I think Jakob has only done one 9b+ so he might not just have the breadth of experience granted on the few 9b+s to say what's a big enough step up. Adam's comment also sort of implied 9b+. But saying that there is only a handful of 9b+, it's still very much the cutting edge!
Different things make a route harder: technical difficulty (awkard body positions, balance, flexibility...) required power and required endurance come to mind. BIG's main difficulty is endurance. If it requires endurance beyond any 9b+ and has sufficient other difficulties then 9c is justified. If you have that endurance you will need less time projecting it then a route that is difficult because of its technical difficulties so just because Jakob didnt spend years on it doesn't automatically make it less hard then other 9c's.
I totally agree, and also I have another point: Both Jakob and Adam said it's 9b+, when they thought after the long crux move the route would be basically done. Then Jakob fell after that move, and - in the live stream - said, it could be 9c THEREFORE. But then something happend: Conditions got colder, and the sloper before the crux move became much better (he said it in the streams), and Jakob could have a fair bit of rests and shakes there, and then he never fell there again. And so, I can see not why the original assessment 9b+ shouldn't be just correct. Probably it's on the hard side of 9b+, and will eventually get a 9b+/9c grade.
If the first sent is without kneepads, and the second sent is with kneepads, it is not fair to say with kneepads it is easier like Ondra did in one of his videos. To find the real grade you need the same conditions of the first sent and its grade proposal. Meanwhile climbing is full of lies. Onsight with yet fixed gear is standard. If one makes a 6b with yet fixed carabiners and calls it onsight the whole world is laughing , the same is in a 8c + onisight! :))
Speculative conversations like this are such a headache, and really shift the focus of what newer climbers think is relevant. Maybe, just stick to talking about what really matters. THE CLIMBING
