Will this NEW extruder gear solve the issue? 

This is how open source is supposed to work. Good job Bondtech! Good Job MirageC!

Not just improving YOUR extruder, but also the Sherpa and all the other using the same components. Congrats !

I just want to thank you and bondtech for this. It's awesome to see these kind of advancements in the 3d printing space.

Thanks for doing so much precise, technical evaluation of 3DP parts. It saves me so much of my time and effort, and truth be told, I couldn't do what you do anyway. What you do isn't just a boon to me, but to Bondtech and to the entire community.

I love the experimental, bleeding edge nature of your channel. I would love to see all of these findings and improvements make it into a community developed build like a Voron.

Martin and the team at Bondtech have always been amazing people to collaborate with. They are always looking for continuous improvement.

I love the comparisons of the measurements to a hair and layer height. Makes it much more approachable than just some numbers.

You have come first in the entire world. I saw your previous video and marvelled at your deductive skills, as well as your methodology. This is a win for all of us who use Bondtech. We'll done them for sitting up and listening, and thank you so much for such engineering goodness. Superb effort and a deservedly excellent result.

Thats a step forward! Congrats. I fixed the offcenter issue of the gear on the shaft by hugging the shaft with a piece of aluminium foil until the gear was a bid snag when placed on the shaft so the gear was not off center when screewing it down. That worked veeery good on my orbiter v2 clone.

Oh, you just solve the famous prusa mk3 602 issue ! I hope bondtech will improve their extruder to have the same level of quality with standard ones

Awesome. Thank you for pushing the boundaries of FDM printing.

Your contribution to 3d printing will be observed in smooth layer lines for years to come.

Great video as always Love the interaction with bontech and the DIY community ❤️ Thanks for sharing your expirence with all of us. We all moves forward 👍 😀

Turns out, that listing to and collaborating with customers will generate the best advertisement for a company.

Gosh, this makes me very happy to see. Thank you and Bondtech so very much! I'm going to run this gear on all my printers from now on

We only use bontech stuff at production. Great company and product 👏🏻

everything about that new gear assembly sounds amazing, definitely going to have it in my next printer

The inconsistent extrusion is the one problem I have with my Prusa i3MK3S+. I’m glad to see the solution in the works!

I’m currently in talks with Bondtech to make sure my V2 DDX won’t need any sort of upgrade to fit this new drive gear. I’ve been fighting print quality for a few weeks now and I’ve stumbled upon these series of videos with hopes that it fixes my issues. The amount of depth and detail has earned you a subscriber

Hopefully they make one with the gear flipped for the voron steathburners

Is there an update to the ultimate hotend testing series coming? The first announcement was 8 months ago and the last video 6 months ago

The 3D printing community really fortunate to have people like you. Awesome professional work 👍. Thank you 💕

I love all the measurements you do! Data, facts & test prints, we love them!

That is great work from you and bondtech. 👍

Bondtech is a great company with great products. I'm disappointed this won't fit the BMG extruder. I have two of them.

This is great stuff, very thankful for your and Bondtech's work on this! Now I really hope a version that is compatible with Prusa MK3 is in the works. I don't like most prints out of it because of how ugly the surface quality is.

Thanks a lot, I am really looking forward to testing it. I built my own interpretation of a highspeed printer at the beginning of last year, and the irregular extrusion is an issue that I gave up on troubleshooting. (My most successful fix was replacing the second hob gear with a bearing, as has worked for you too)

really hope you get a kickback from every gear sold. Well done, and happy Bondtech made it happen

Just slapped one in my CW2! Runs great! Thanks for all you've done for this leap in DD print quality!

Companies like Bondtech and creality should patreon you for your research work

Looks awesome! Seems like anyone with an extruder based on bondtech gears should rework the designs to be based on this gearset. I love my TL etc, but this seems like an easy place to buy the premium parts and see real rewards, whatever extruder you choose to throw em in. Thanks for the vid!

I wish I could use these on the BMG cologne I got recently but I guess I’ll just have to put them on the Sherpa mini!

I like the funky "octopus tentacles" part cooling duct. Is there a video on that, or will there be in the future?

Looks like I'm waiting for the upgrade to be used with the LGX lite. Congrats, your work is paying off!

i love you videos , you always show results based on real stats and studies , well done my friend 👌

Just ordered one and printed the new Sherpa Mini housing for it. Great video!

I just picked up a similar extruder, BIQU H2 V2S REVO. Noticed the solid gears and when i took one apart i was surprised by the quality. I got it for $45 and don't plan to use the Revo hotend, and will be adapting it to my hardened nozzle/volcano v1 (MK8)/ with copper adaptor Frankenstein of a hot end. I'll also be making my own silicone sock, once i figure out the best way to use foaming silicone.. maybe just using standoffs to make it "hollow" and minimize how much the sock touches the heater block Sorry for the keyboard diarrhea

I was considering an Orbiter 2.0, but after seeing this I'll stick with upgrading my BMG to IGDA. Thank you!

Beautiful! But i still think dual sided extruders have been, for the most part, a mistake. Like you said, idling against a bearing is entirely par for the course.

Thank you for this video and for sharing this great work. Using 4x bearings instead of the second pinion is smart because you no longer have to worry about managing the optimal distance between pinions versus gripping tension of the filament. Maybe you should replace one of these bearings with a smaller cylinder to avoid contact with the tooth of the remaining pinion?

Thank you so much for doing this. Looks like I need to find a replacement for my BMG on my Prusa. I am about to make magnetic couplers for my Z axis to eliminate any z wobble, this video shows me the next thing to work on for perfectly smooth prints. Well this and quality 0.9 deg steppers on X and Y, a Raspberry Pi and Klipper. Lol, I'm aware I have a "Ship of Theseus" thing going on with my Mk2, seeing as it's now almost a Mk3S with a BMG, Dragon hotend & 0.9 pancake stepper. I should have changed to a CoreXY a while ago, but I see this as a learning experience and testbed to learn exactly how I want my custom printer to be. I really need to get a resin printer too, seeing as I've been printing with a 0.15mm nozzle lately.

"Just like seen on TV".🤞

is there a compatibility chart somewhere? with and without modifications would be perfect. I can not believe that only two extruder are compatible

Great vid as always! Superb data

This adaptation (drilling) for a new gear makes a huge gap for flex filament get stuck in, at least so it looks. Please try TPU.

Can't wait to try it! Already on backorder, but thats to be expected.

Bondtech is the GOAT

Wow! Thats a huge difference!

Wonder if there will be an upgrade available for the LGX! Or even if this issue is comparable.

Trop fort Cousin ! Bien joué, merci :)

What an amazing project and results.

Kudos Bondtech 8⁠-⁠)8⁠-⁠)

great job 🎉🎉 you manage to achieve the unthinkable

Cool men, yuo finally did it😊

I wonder if there's a way to tune an existing gear that uses a set screw so that it's perfectly centered and gives the same performance?

Hi I was thinking about this problem today and I had two ideas. One was of course just make the entire assembly out of one chunk of metal on the lathe. Meaning the plastic gear that gets pressed on as well. And also cnc’ed idler arms to ensure the cylindrical axis stays perfectly parallel to the other drive gear. Also, we should be using pressed gears on motors instead of set screws as that would fix some issue as well. My second thought was using the hysteresis of Bowden in a different way as a sort of “flow pressure capacitor”. Like what if you had a properly engineering chamber in the hotend that minimized stringing but also allowed for a flow buffer for more consistent pressure?

@MirageC so the RIDGA did not use helical gearing/teeth as i had expected, can you elaborate what this means for us going forward? I thought Vez had found the final solution to the issue regarding wandering filament

I love happy endings. Though I am a bit miffed about the idea of having to ditch dual-gear extruders.

Oddly enough, i built a validation stand to hold my .0005 indicator to check this. My findings with the 3 I checked, the one with the absolute best runout on the body of the gear (.0035) Unfortunately, I dont have an indicator tip that is small enough to mesure the depths of the gear to see not only runout, but the depth/peak variation.

Fantastic analysis!

Fabulous work!

Now they need to RNC coat the gear, and release a high precision idler as well

It would be interesting to compare Ridga with LGX

I can't wait to see this make it to the orbiter.

Looks basically like the Prusa MINI extruder gear :)

Sweet ty for the video.

Test the gears on a hextrudort! That I want to see!

Quick question, actually. How does this affect the LGX and LGX Lite extruders? I imagine the gearing system in that is done differently. Do you know if Bondtech intend to remake their molds for these improved tolerances on the LGX?

After watching your both videos, i have been wondering why my same sherpa micro on clone gears was giving better layer lines than now. I have replaced the short bowden tube, I cut the new one is little bit larger for very snugg fit. That might take away the little give previous one had. I might need to cut the tube little short than required and see the effect.

I hope Bondtech tossed you some coins for your effort because you just solved the problem of over half a million Prusa printers alone. As someone with an MK3S print farm I'm really looking forward to that update, even if it increases the overall print quality by "only" 20%.

While that is an amazing achievement a single deeper grooved hobbgear (like the mk7 or mk8) would be better for the one sided extruder design 😔 I prefer those with a bearing idler, especially for more flexible materials.

Wow, amazing difference and great insights as always! Where can we find this small test rig design? Got a bunch of gears to test. 0:43 hint: damping 😉

The eccentricity of the plastic gear is of little consequence. Even if it's off my 0.2 mm the mesh play will be much less than that. However, if you do redesign this then why on earth wouldn't you make the mirroring gear helical, which would fix much of the meshing play that all of those non-helical dual drive extruders have???

great video !!!

I bought a new BMG extruder at the end of the last year. I should wait with the purchase. 😢

Very nice! I hope they can make something compatible for the BMG extruded!

Nuno at bondtech rocks!!!! Great company better guys!!

3mm filament would likely even out the lack of precision in the extruder, but only due to the defects happening more gradually

I bought several of Bondtech's original 2.75 gears and they were useless - the gears wouldn't mesh with the filament in place! This single gear piece seems to be an improvement. But, having been burned by buying expensive Bondtech gears that do not work, I will wait for a lot of real world reviews before I will consider purchasing this one.

Oh damn and here I thought it would fit a normal BMG extruder from them as I only saw part of teh RIDGA adress. Pity.

I just wish there was a solution for the orbiter.

So basicaly E3D Titan with straith cut gear and idler should be The best

Damn it's on backorder. Now I am wondering if a shim between the shaft and drive gear would achieve almost the same level.

Hi there, how does that compare to the vz-hextrudort aluminium with the special gear that they have? Is the performance similar or the vz-hextrudort will show the marks like the old gear? Thanks in advance and keep the amazing work

Looking for your advice: I have a Sherpa Micro with the original BMG gears on my Voron V0.2. Last night I built a second Sherpa Micro with the new RIDGA gears. I printed a Voron Design Cube test print with each Sherpa, and in those single test prints, I cannot tell the difference. Admittedly, I haven't done much in the way of print tuning on this printer, and I printed the cubes in eSun ABS, versus your Eryone Silk PLA. Not sure how much that would make a difference to the end result. I am probably doing something wrong (my wife would tell me that it's usually my fault). Could you share the STLs that you used for your tests? Looks like the tube is printed in vase mode, is that correct? Fantastic work, as always! Thanks to you and Bondtech for your efforts!

Forgive me if this has been asked, will you be reviewing the Orbiter 2.0?

yeesh, this sounds like the best option would be to just have the force transmission gear separate from both hobs, and have those simply turning on bearings always pushed to the same side quality by design anyone?

Any update about a BMG gear replacement? Also heard that the nylon gear was machined instead of being pressed. Is that part of the new gear as well?

Have you tried their LGX Large Gears eXtruder? It might not have this problem simply due to large gears.

Hello. What about gears of increased diameter, like the LGX extruder? There's probably no such problem there?

That's great! Have a little question. Is RIDGA compatibile vith Mellow's ALU VzHextrudort? 😁

This is cool but why did they change it from 5mm to 4mm? It would have been way better as a simple swap. Regardless, I’m going to get them for my Vorons. Just seems like a weird thing to change the size of.

I used a bearing from laptop Hdd as idler and sawed cdrom liner as a shaft- that setup removed all that z wobble completely and made my prints super smooth , my printer is mingda magician X

Lead the way 😍😍😍

Unfortunately it's already been pretty well established by BambuLab printers that a helical gear extruder drive setup will give better results than a spur gear. So yes this is new and cool, but already behind the times.

Love your videos, thank you so much for helping out the community with your mystery solving!! Little side note: it's damping, not dampening! They are used almost interchangeably, but damping is the correct term in this context

Meanwhile me with a BMG: it's not compatible Me: shit

Very nice work! Is the Bondtech LGX Lite also affected by this problem?

It doesnt work with any Standard BMG ... wich kinda sucks that we still have to use the grubscrews..... What they sell works on clockworks, vorons and custom jobs...

god damn man how did you get such an awesome voice??