Hahaha Andy thank you that was a funny introduction, I can guarantee there is absolutely no danger of me being half naked in Scotland 🥶🥶🥶. My Daly 1a balancer did a fantastic job on my sick Liitokala battery and making DALY great again, 0.6A with good cells might be alright, it will be interesting viewing. Just a question I was always told never coil live cables as they get hot hot hot, is that coil of balance leads ok? My cables still make my brain itch but it is getting better slowly. Cheers mate Luv ya Gaz
Thanks Gaz. Hope you had some more people sub to your channel and enjoy the beautiful Scottish landscape you're showing not often enough. Coiling up cables is fine if the current is not too high. I would not do that when I push constant 10a though these cables as they heat up due to the lack of proper cooling. For these balance cables it is absolutely no problem in doing so. And it looks nice! Stay charged up there!
@@OffGridGarageAustraliaYou added About a hundered subs over night mate and thats awesome!!! Better to show more of our beautiful rolling hills before its ruined. We have 1000s of wind turbines in the local area and more being built, the destruction caused by the acces roads alone is upsetting, nearing full saturation. The farm and hills to our left is being planted with a forest for comertial timer. I will have to do a video from up the road it is shocking. Shine On You Crazy Diamond! Gaz
With a 15s 15ah Lifepo4, my 40a 400ma balancing jk bms's balancing is not enough when charging at 2.5 amps(ebike battery and charger). 1 Cell always always 3.65v while others are at 3.4v. All are almost the same soc and have less than 300mah difference in capacity. What I need from jk bms is balance when charging only function. What I suspect happens is with such low capacity, at full charge right after being balance charged at 3.65v per cell, some cells stabilize at 3.39v, some at 3.45v all at 100% soc. But the bms tries to balance it, drawing power from the 3.45v to the 3.39v even when all cells are 100%. and that's what causes the unbalance. Its such a headache because my battery tops at 51v instead of 54v due to cell over voltage protection and the loss of speed is noticable. My only solution would be to add 1 more cell so all of the cells top at 3.41v. when charge using my stock charger at 54.6v. My charging time will jump from 5 hrs to 8hrs+ because of low voltage difference between charger and battery to get 99% soc(tested on a 2nd battery).
Great to see the shelves again and some raw testing, back to your roots. The first jk I used was 0.6 balancer on a home made 51.2 bank made up of 4 12v valance batteries. Still working a treat
Cable 3 to Port 3! I hope to receive it for my spare bloated 8pcs 75AH cells. It would help a lot for the high electricity costs here in the Philippines. 😇🙏
Hello Andy, Do you know why Seplos no longer sells POLO batteries? They sent me 3 POLO S batteries like yours for a video, and since sending these batteries, I have no more news from Seplos, no more responses to my emails. Is the withdrawal of these batteries from marketing due to danger, or to the use of pouch cells?
Question, is the amperage for a Bms rated for its amperage use or battery amperage? Could I use a 100 BMS on a 280 amp battery setting but only draw 100 amps
it's not good Andy these kind of nozzles, only for children to play with. I use what seems to be 25mm² and plug both wires into one end. There is real power there. Unnecessary and unused wires are simply pulled out nicely by pressing the latch.
cable number 3 on the whole number 3, but im good, i've got three jk bms's , i would love Andy 2 to hunt me here in the Philippines if he could get here.
Andy, have you or anyone else ever considered or used Aluminum wire high current, DC systems? I'm designing a light EV that needs to be light a possible and given the weight and cost savings of Aluminum, I'm considering giving it a try. Years ago I worked a lot with Aluminum wire in remote Oil and Gas locations where stuff had to flown in or transported light snow-vehicles and I found that if you used proper 'AU' lugs crimped properly with oxide inhibiting grease Aluminum conductors were reliable. One thing I noticed and sort of preferred about Aluminum conductors over copper, was that in the event a of a high current short, where copper would continue to heat to red hot, aluminum would quickly melt or vaporize, and in a high current DC system that might be a plus.
The biggest issue with using aluminum wire especially in an EV with high current and voltage demands is that the aluminum wire expands and contracts many times more than copper does, making all of your connection points susceptible to breaking or becoming weak over time. Look into it, but they make some specific components to help with it. You may be better off with CCA wire as a better backup to keep weight down as well as cost.
@@redbaronrefining5322 Thanks for the insights and copper clad AL suggestion, I was not 'current' on CCA developments but some interesting solutions for sure. Perhaps Andy has an opinion and might be up for delving into Aluminum conductors and possibly doing experimenting with Aluminum Conductors to find out if they are worth the trouble and risk. Good point about Thermal expansion of Aluminum conductors, that was a major factor of terminal loosing and heating, I saw not only with Aluminum but with copper too. It happens with copper to but to a much lessor degree. In the oil and gas industry part of our scheduled maintenance on Motor control centers and power generation was inspecting and re-torquing terminals. In industrial locations where they originally used Aluminum conductors directly connected to Aluminum terminals, it was a constant challenge keeping terminals from heating either from loosing or corrosion, and one partial solution was to use special aluminum clad, copper compression lugs with corrosion inhibiting dielectric grease on the aluminum conductors, and insert those lugs into breakers and switch gear terminals, and that proved a reliable solution. I'm familiar enough with Aluminum wire and compression lugs, to want to experiment with it in DIY EV Applications, as I think it might be suitable to save weight and for heavy gauge runs from battery banks to controller and three Phase motor leads, as long the connections are not subject to movent, stress and heating as I did see cases where heat stressed aluminum conductors became brittle and fractured.
Aluminum has 61 percent of the conductivity of copper, but has only 30 percent of the weight of copper. So by oversizing the aluminium wires to match the copper, you're losing some of the weight benefits. Is silicon wire not a better (possible) solution as it is thinner than normal copper wire?
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Thanks Andy. My take was that as Aluminum is about 1/3 the weight, and 20% the cost of copper, about 30% more voltage drop per circular mil. /weight it was worth an experiment. Silicone insulated, fine stranded wire might be advertised as higher ampacity than PVC coated wire of the same Circular mil. / or gauge, but at a higher temp, at 90C or 120C, rather than 60C. so that higher current comes with a higher voltage drop, more resistive loses and possibly more impedance losses as my load would be a high-current, three-phase permanent magnet BLDC motor. I seem to recall that Aluminum has higher impedance losses with higher frequency with AC. But for DC in DIY solar, I was thinking that Aluminum might offer significant cost savings for long runs from solar arrays or long feeds from Charge controllers, battery banks, etc.
Hi Andy, another perfect video from you, thanks a lot. It inspires me to upgrade all my batteries with my already purchased JKs soon... Once I may find some time to manage. Just a short question, your kill switches are on the minus line. I know there is almost a philosophical discussion about killing minus or plus, but why did you choose to put it on minus. Victron recommends killing plus. Thank you so much for your point of view!
Nice video Andy actually i have 105AH eve cells with Ant bms the passive balancer is only 180ma i selected 140ma and its more than enough for those cells. the 200A jk bms i crimped both wires into a 25mm terminals it was a total fit insert.
Drei compt nach Zwei, in Ireland its tree (as in Tree fellas), but in Aus Boganland where "coupla beers" can range anywhere from 6 to over 12, it can be really confusing trying to determine what comes after 2. Note to self,- dont ever employ a bogan sparky.
Can you please help? I have a jk6a24s10p. I have a 24s7p 72v 42ah 32700 lifepo4 cylinder battery pack. I also use it on my 2000w electric motorcycle. How should the perfect bms advance setting be set? I am charging with a 87.4v 15ah adapter. While the bms value is charging, the adapter and the % values are incompatible. When using the battery, the remaining battery value drops unbalanced. Although it shows 0%, the cell values of the batteries show 3.55v. What I want is to be able to have a long range and balance the battery cells at the same value so that the % drop value does not deceive me and shows it correctly. When there is 15% left, I want to put it on charge, charge it to 100% and use a range of 120km. Can you please help?
The SOC100%VOL does not work on the older BMS for me. It just does not trigger. JK told me the first cell hitting the voltage will trigger it. Not in this BMS I installed here.
For those over 50.... reminds me of a quiz show question from a 70's Cheech and Chong episode... He is asked how many J's in a Lid. (remember metal tobacco cans?) He says TW0. If you dont get it it ok.... Secondly...... S E X Y ... the wiring of course... very B E A Utiful. You could use a piece of this video as a "settings" video for the BMS and Li iron Ph. cheers thanks again.
Hi Andy, I have found with my own JK BMS that if you change the battery capacity in the settings it returns the cycle count to zero. Best regards Andy (in Scotland).
Hello my friend. all in peace? Did I manage to help myself? I want to place a device on the output (AC) of the inverter against a short circuit, which is a fast-acting device, so as not to burn the output. Do you know anything for this purpose? Thank you very much in advance.
It worked fine on my 24v battery. But then I connected an electric oven make bread in my off-grid cabin. Had to replace it ofcourse... But it did a fine job for 2 years.
I do watch your channel every time a new video comes up. I am getting ready to receive my 280ah cells from China, doing a 24v system for selected loads in my house. I bought a balancer as well, but I am not sure if its a must to install it. Your insight on the same will be appreciated
I have the exact same model of jk-bms on my 125AH 48v system. It took about a week of holding the pack at full voltage for it to balance, but after its more than enough
hello i like your videos i am from France i envy your wonderfull wheather oever there in Australia now it is cold and humide where i live near Paris in Provins here is the answer for your contest to win the bms put the cable n° 3 into the port N°3
Hi! Have two questions concerning the new JK-PB2A16S20P which should be able to communicate with deye hybrid inverters for example : 1st: I am planning to build 2 battery banks each 16 cells to run the deye inverter. So i need 2 of the above mentioned bms. The deye has only one socket for the LAN-cable. the BMS comes with that green printed circuit board. Is this to connect the 2 LAN-cables and then with one LAN-cable to the inverter? or does it have another purpose and I need to buy a regular port switch? if the green printed circuit board has another purpose, could you explain for what? 2nd: JK has now 3 different LCD's. As i am from germany and i would like to use the HEAT function of the new BMS, the 4.3 inch and the 3.5 inch LCD's might not work at the same time because of the lack of another socket. Is this true? Many thanks in advance for your reply!
Thanks for your questions. 1.) correct. the two RS485 ports on the right of the coms board are for internal communication of your BMS and only the master connects via CAN to your inverter. 2.) afaik, you can connect only one display
Hi Andy. I usually remove a few of the unused balance leads from the connector for spares but I don’t remove all the extras because they help with holding the connector into the bms. WARNING! The unused leads do have power on them and ends need to be insulated. In fact the voltage ascends as if there’s more cells than actually there.
It depends on what sort of cables and how long they are. Here it is silicon wire which has a higher temperature rating than normal cables. It is also a super fine stranded cable, so has higher rating therefore. And, it is a very short cable. Also, this BMS has only 100A rated current capacity (not 200A) and the whole battery bank is secured with a 100A DC breaker.
@@garys-half-baked-offgrid-dream I'll be at 100kWh then. I'll stick with that while I investigate the possibility of a 500kWh to 1MWh pack to last me the entire winter :)
@@upnorthandpersonal Sir I think you need a Small Modular Nuclear Reactor. It's hard to comprehend the physical size and cost of that amount of batteries. That sure would be a good video series to watch.
@@garys-half-baked-offgrid-dream I'm actually designing something like this for a zero emission data center project. So I'm actually only half kidding. You'd be surprised what you can fit in a container, even a 20 foot one.
The 200A JK BMS (old style) also has these thin 10mm2 cables. Using it on a sailboat motor and having 100A for 2 hours i am nervous about those cables heating up. Should i half the length to minimize the resistance before they connect to my 70mm2 cables? Or are those 20cm cables short enough?
We have tested these cables here on the channel and they seem to be OK for 200A. I thought the 200A JK has slightly larger cables, than the 100A version?
Hi Andy, i think you should set lower balance voltage to extend balancing time, and your 0.6 A BMS will do job OK. i test 24V battery with JK BD6A17S8P and now in winter (Croatia) with bad improvised position and bad angle of solar panels have small current values. Also i test part of consumer in house with 300 - 500 W consumption. Am i right, what you mean ?? Maybe lowering balance voltage will slow down in some amount chargeing but it depends if you have lot of sun what i saw in video you have because you have batteries almost full at noon sometimes.
Andy, I have two older JK bsm with upgraded to v 4.18 and now I can not see the setting or control pages, only the status page. The setting and control is still across the bottom but they can not be accessed. Reset app and jk bsm but I still have the problem. Could you have jk help get this repaired or how do I change back to an early version. Thanks for all you do.
That was like what I intended to ask… van an older JK BMS (less than 1 year old) be upgraded to newer firmware versions. Apparently not… But I like to hear if any would be possible in future. Especially the setting of the 0-100% SOC interests mee
I am curious if it is better to use the .6 amp balance when we are at the higher cell voltages (closer to 3.6v). To maintain a 2 amps current when you are close to the 3.6v mark, you must up the voltage above the 3.65v mark to push the amperage. Is that an issue we should be concerned about?
@@OffGridGarageAustralia its down to 5 f about 25 degrees below freezing for almost a week. I'm worried about them I'm an over the road truck driver and only home to use my solar battery system 2 or 3 days a month but this constant freeze and refreeze really has me worried. I spent a lot on the grade a eve 280k cells and id hate to ruin them. Any help greatly appreciated
