Beautiful Truck. I have a '48 Pickup and a '58 Panel Delivery. From what I could see I think it might well worth looking for the problem in the Carburetor. Running very rich from the plug read. Maybe float adjustment. Hard to troubleshoot on the tube. Good luck. Love original Willys. Been doing them for over 50 years.
I had a Jeep truck in 1964 and could not get it to run over 1500 rpm. after much replacement of fuel pump, carb, points plugs, etc etc. I took off the air cleaner and it run like a wild goat. The pan on the air cleaner, held on by a wing nut had a piece of 1/4" felt that had lost the adhesive that held it to the pan and it would collapse over the intake and choke the engine. I had a Jeep station wagon while working for a mining company in 55. Those were really good vehicles. Certainly worth restoring.
Wow! What a great old truck! You are a lucky man. Treasure this time with your boy. Before you know it, he’ll be all grown and off with his own. It happens quick. Keep these videos coming. Subbed… 👍🏻
That's part of the reason I am documenting this time. The RU-vid thing also helps keep the younger generation engaged. When schoolwork allows my older boy will be helping also. If you watch the slideshow video of the restoration I have posted you will see that they have grown up with this project.
Wow! What a beautiful truck. I loved watching you and Anderson working together. I have a 72 Toyota FJ40 with the F155 I6 engine. Very similar to your engine. I recently went through what you show in this video and your previous one (fouled plugs, rough idle, hard start, loss of power, low compression in a couple cylinders). Went through the carb, changed the gas, filter, fuel pump, entire ignition and could not make it run right. The vehicle had only 50,000 original miles and the previous owner said he had just rebuilt the head and put in a new head gasket as the vehicle had sat for a long time. I finally did a cylinder leak down test and came to find I had a blown head gasket. When I pulled the head, the gasket was like new except between cylinders 3, 4 &5 where it had leaked. I had a warped head. I highly recommend you leak down test the cylinders especially #3. You will pinpoint any valve, valve guide, ring, or leaky head gasket problem. I apologies if you have already done this, I have only seen two of your videos. They struck me as so similar to what I had gone through on my vehicle.
Thank you, it’s on my list to try a leak down test. My brother in law has a kit I can borrow. As soon as I finish installing an engine in my wrangler I will get back to the Willys and continue to post my progress.
Also, a carb adjustment is in order. If the plugs got sooty that quickly, it may very well be that the gas-air mixture is too rich. Then again, it is also a flathead, and such closed combustion quarters makes for fouled-up plugs on a regular basis. That said, check the fuel-air mix at the carb.
Also think need high supression spark wires also platinum plugs in too and antifreeze should try 60 % antifreeze also 40 % water to high temperatures thermostat to use and hopefully water pump spinning also flow in engine to on propeller too! For fuel try use not Petro use Shell or Flying J or 76 even Harmac companies to ! Also engine Oil filter use Fram 2X with orange plus black grip on bottom no synthetic engine oil type too also 2 X Fram air filter too 2 times year ! Also if engine got PCV Valve replacement in Spring Season and on Fall Season to and use a long life fuel filter too! Also add 100 ml 80w90 in motor before change engine oil to!
at approx 6:30 right after the engine started there is a spark jump from the generator across the black box. I watched a few times. I thought I'd let you know.
Sure is a pretty truck. Spent many years with all sorts of different Willy's jeep products. Did you do a vacuum test? That's important. That will tell you if you've got an issue with the valves. Your compression tester should be perfectly fine, it's doing what you need it to do.
@@brokejeepnut1905 I'd use it to diagnose engine problems. If possible, it's best to screw a barb into the intake manifold, but you can use a vacuum line. This can tell you if you've got sticky valves, which would drop compression, or a number of other different issues or problems. A vacuum gauge is a great tool. You can always use it to set the carburetor correctly as well. Here's a link to Holley: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NrnzD7PgoHI.html
could be carb float valve not shutting off fuel the intake valves maybe a little tight or weak spark, bring each cylinder to TDC then hold the crank and put light air pressure in plug hole check if air is going by the valves this will eliminate brunt valve or valve out of adjustment. weak spark could be the battery.
I think it might be because your choke is on that’s usually the cause and idling is no good you got too run the engine underload for at least a 1/2 hr on the actual road too clean and burn up your carbon also throw in some fuel cleaner in the tank that will help break up the buildup in the carb
Your Ignition coils resister is corroded. You have low voltage to the coil. By pass the resister from battery + direct . Run it for a few minutes if it runs better replace ballast resistor. Or used your voltage tester. Should be 6 volts if it's still a 6 volt system 8 if it is converted to ,12 volts.
Thank you for the suggestion. Coil has internal resistor. It's a 12 volt system. It's running much better now. I am sure it still needs some fine tuning though. Still haven't checked timing and adjusted carb. I moved on to an engine install on my Wrangler.
Needs marvel mystery oil in fuel keeps valves lubricant.... plus I use 100 LL in 3/4 of my fuel rest non ethanol fuel marathon or shell fuel I run this mix in my vintage Vehicles and outboard engines
Has it still got points in it,and if so, have you checked or changed them. Also it would be best to change it over to 12 volts if it hasn,t already been done. And now would be a good time to change the points over to electronic Pertronix module. Sounds like it runs a whole lot smoother now.
I did pick up some lead additive. Years ago I replaced the points and condenser with a Pertronix unit. Been very happy with that upgrade. It's running pretty good now. Thanks for the suggestions.
Engine is running super rich. Might think about rebuilding the carb. I don't understand why you felt the need to drop the tank just to get the gas out. I would have siphoned the tank opened the drain you have in the bottom to finish draining it. Then put in fresh gas. You could have bled the fuel line, disconnecting it at the fuel pump and let the fresh gas push the old gas in the line out. Regarding the compression test, I'd drive it for a little while first, at least 25 to 50 miles to let the engine work a bit. Then I would get a fitting to do a leak down test. Apply compressed air to the cylinder and listen for air leaking. It you hear it coming from the exhaust then exhaust leak. If you hear it coming from the crank case (have the oil cap off of the engine and listen there) then ring by pass.
I have tried many times to open the drain in the bottom of the tank with no success. Had the tank out a couple times previously. I recently siphoned as much as I could out and added fuel. Still had issues. I am glad I dropped the tank, it was developing some decent surface rust and had a lot of condensation. I removed the rust by shaking the tank around with clean aquarium rocks(its what I had), treated it with a rust neutralizer before putting it back in. It's running well now. I still intend to do a leak down test as you suggested though. Thanks for taking the time to provide such a detailed suggestion. Greatly appreciated!
my 1960 willys pick up was going well , now wont start changed solenoid and cleaned voltage regulator battery 12.4 volts changed fuel filter cleaned carby and plugs just grinding noise from starter , very frustrating ,,,,, any thoughts ,,,, power to all locations fuses okay ,,,alan from aussie,,,,, australian willys assembled here 1959 right hand drive see where toyota came from the super motor was replaced last year
Just saw your message. Have you made progress? Have you inspected the flywheel and starter gear? The grinding noise makes me think you are missing some teeth. What motor?
In part 2 I dropped the gas tank. There was a lot of moisture in it. That and ethanol fuel that had sat too long seems to be the main issue. I will continue to work on dialing it in as it could still be a little rich. Thanks for the suggestion. Always appreciate input.
