@Mazhar Imam I know you didn't address this question to me, but just thought I'd chime in. This is better at thrusting than cutting, but can do both fine.
@Mazhar Imam Pretty much. It's not going to thrust as well as a pure thrusting sword like an estoc or a rapier, which have almost no cutting capacity. It probably doesn't cut quite as well as pure cutter like a kriegsmesser or a tulwar, either. But it's seems like a sword that's decent at both. As Matt Easton pointed out it has a nice tapered point, but also a somewhat wide blade with a nice blade geometry (save the secondary bevel because windlass make them dull then grind in the edge). Basically it does both but the trade-off is the ideal cutting portion is a good foot back from the point (might be even a touch more). That's not to say you can't cut with the rest of the edge, but you'd train and learn to judge distance so that you'd cut with that portion of the blade.
I really like this style of quillon, aesthetically speaking. The little foliate langets, and the rounded quillon terminals are nice and smooth and elegant.
@@erichusayn fires all died out. Corona is pretty mild, about 300 cases per day right now. But corona does mean all my sword shipping has been delayed significantly. Waiting on 4 packages from europe
Fun fact: here in Italy when you say "spadone" most people think of the sword that you are rewiewing! And the German term Zweihander is used to describe the spadone. Very confusing. Often museum curators do not put much attention into those terms as we do. Greetings!
Most of the terminology we use is a modern invention In most records I've seen, people used to just refer to them as swords or two handed swords, Spadone/Zweihander just mean 2 handed sword so there isn't much point for a curator to be so specific
I actually did buy it. :oP It's the largest thing hanging on my wall right now. I held out for a whole two days after I first saw this video. It was torture.
This has also been my experience of the Windlass swords in the last few years. It is possible to get better swords, and it is possible to get cheaper swords, but you will struggle to get a better sword at the price, and you will not find a sword as good for cheaper. They sit right on the line where you start to get a good sword instead of a 'functional' sword, and because of their price point you don't feel as anxious using it for cutting as, say, a comparable Albion piece.
Thanks so much for a review of a more affordable blade. Don't get me wrong, it's great to see the more expensive stuff too, but for many people, a collection of Albion's just isn't really realistic right now - so thanks. And looks like a great sword! I only have one Windlass product so far, but I reckon I'll get more soon, and this could be it :)
Your pronunciation of "Tsvaihander" is really getting there, m8. Much, much improved. Thank you for caring about getting things right. Gotta respect that.
Yeah I got a windlass Munich town guard sword about 2 years ago and I was blown away by the quality vs the price. Sure, the guard had a few imperfections and the edge geometry wasnt the best, but the distal taper on it was perfectly executed and the sword was finished quite well overall. It's a heavy sword but once it's in your hand, the weight disappears and the tip is precisely at your disposal. Windlass has some pretty decent offerings. Their quality control may not be the best, but they are hand forged swords. What people tend to forget about reproduction swords is that when they were originally forged in their time periods, the quality control would have most certainly varied quite a bit. We are spoiled with our modern systematic quality control systems. As long as the blade handles well, is hardened and tempered correctly and does its job, it wouldve been good to go. At the price they put their swords at it's a good value just for the time and craftsmanship put into them. If your looking for perfect quality and attention to detail, that's where the price begins to skyrocket. This would have been the case at the time they were originally being forged anyway from my understanding
It's interesting to see a review of a Windlass. Given their hit or miss reputation, it's nice to get as many reviews as possible to ser if they're upping their game over time.
Loving these reviews as they are swords within my price bracket. Really great review. I bought the last sword of that review. I will be saving for this one too.
Matt, have you ever done a multi-video series that gives a chronological history of sword development and design? Such would be very useful and interesting for viewers who come at this subject without a well-rounded background.
I'm so glad I watched this review! I'm going to order one of these now! I mostly collect Japanese swords but I've been looking for a nice sword like this but didn't know where to start so thank you for your video
It's been a few decades since I bought a Windlass sword, (from Hank Reinhardt's Museum Replicas in Conyers, GA just down the road). They were pretty good for the money back then and It looks like their quality has increased dramatically since then. If their business model is anything like it used to be, however, the majority of their swords are shipped as unsharpened wall-hangers and stage props. When someone requested a sharp version, they would just grind an edge on one of the unsharpened blades and ship it, (thus the secondary bevel). To make a better blade geometry, they'd have to be designing the blades to be sharp from the beginning, which would be a problem if most people still want unsharpened ones.
PSA: you can appleseed your own edges with a mousepad and sandpaper. Or leather. Put a piece of pliable material on a hard surface (flat stick, whatever) and apply it to the blade at the desired angle, rubbing it parallel to the edge. The more pliable the material, the tighter the radius of the resulting appleseed will be. You will need to do final sharpening after you finish the process, and I advise you start with 400-600 grit and work your way up to 1000. Couple things to keep in mind. 1. You will have to re-polish the blade if you mess up (and even if you don’t if you’re working with a mirror polished blade. 2. You are working with a dangerous object. Take precautions like clamping it to the edge of a table and wearing cut resistant gloves.
I like waiing awhile after Matt's video on objects for sale like this - gives the company time to fix what he points out. And damn, is this a nice sword for the price.
Since you have mentioned it on a couple of your reproduction sword reviews, I would love to see a comparison cutting video once you have sharpened the edge to see how much difference it makes.
Matt, when you do fix the pommel by peening, could you make a video about that? I'd love to see how to do it, and I'm sure others would as well. Actually, a general sword care/repair video would be great.
I would say that the Balder S.Sword is more of a cross between a Estoc blade, (diamond section, it should basically be a better rapier that you can two hand), and a larger longsword in dimensions. (The Estoc wasn't meant to cut, that is one thing they get wrong. If you want a longer blade that can cut and thrust decently, look to proto-rapiers and true side swords.) */end/walloftext.exe*
I'm very pleased from my Windlass Christus imperat rapier. Yes, the quillions and finger guards needs some file's work and handle's steal wire is horrible, always leaves a microscopic steel pins in the hand - must be wrapped with something. Gaffer tape in my case. But those issues are minor and easy fixated.
That blade is only a bit longer, I think, than Narsil/Andúril as depicted in the LotR movies as more of a hand and a half sword (longsword?) Blade length: about 40 1/2 inches; overall length: approximately 53 inches; United Cutlery edition.
Thank you Matt for sharing this with us. Have been admiring this on the website nice to see a knowledgeable review. On the subject of scabbard, never having worn one, do people find that unlined scabbards are less likely to trip the wearer than wood lined or metal ones after the sword is drawn? Thank you again absolutely love this channel! Cheers
The arms of the guard were most likely swaged round. It doesn't look welded to me. Spring swages or guillotine swages can get a bar dead round and the same thickness evenly down the bar. The lenticular shape in the body of the guard was probably from the forging process. It would otherwise be perfect if it had been machined. It was tapered down to the round portion, and drifted for the tang. They did not take much care in fitting the blade to the guard, but like you said, it's cheap.
Not interested in a Longsword, but I checked out the link, and they really have amazing products on sale. I might get a dagger and a sword cane sometime. Thanks
Thanks for the video Matt. Looks like a decent sword for the price. Would you recommend it as a beginner sword for learning test cutting? I am studying German long sword here in Austria and I am interested in getting into Test cutting and buy my own sword.
Hey, love the review, I got this sword in April, so have had it to practice in the garden with during lockdown. I was also impressed with the weight, it feels quite nimble for its size. I'm thinking of sharpening mine up for cutting as I got it blunt, I have had some experience sharpening knives on whetstones, do you think this method would be a good (though time consuming) way of doing it?
As many of your vids do, this one mentions some early texts on sword fighting. I'd definitely watch, and probably re-watch, a good video on those texts: where they came from, what they say, what they're used for now, etc. (My apologies if you've already made such a vid, but I don't see it under the obvious Playlists).
Thanks for reviewing this sword Matt! I was eagerly waiting to hear your assessment of it. It's a big improvement over a previous Windlass attempt at the same sword that I've had since the late 90s. All of my scabbards from Windlass left a very annoying coating of dust on the blade every time it was put in and taken out. Are they still having this problem?
They do, although that may have been to so with initially putting it in with thr dried grease applied to thr blade for transport. Clean the blade once or twice and the dust will all be gone
Same here. I bought a Windlass Cassel (German retailer name, probably) recently and it leaves some white stuff on the blade every time I pull it out of its scabbard. Same for my 3-4 other Windlass swords.
Yes I have observed that dust with these also. Though if you spray the blade with oil and put it in and out of the scabbard a few times it seems to reduce the issue.
@@scholagladiatoria That works mostly on 4 out of 5. My windlass made cold steel shamshir always leaves something (not just the white stuff) on the blade. I've drowned that mofo in oil...
@@viluukx6609 Hum. I replaced the oil on my sword with Renaissance Wax once I got some. There is little to no dust in it now. One source suggested using something such as an old gun-cleaning brush to scrub the inside clean.
The guard could be lathe work. Get some piece of square stock, do the round bits on lathe, leave the rest square, round corners and transition on the final sanding phase. I dont think it tapering out is more work welded or pure lathe work, it is just a different tool path/angle you use the tool, maybe slightly different order of operations. And I think secondary bevel is fine, as long as it done well and actually sharp. If you've sharpened it by hand, unless you deliberately did a scandi grind and ground the whole surface from the very start of the bevel to the edge, you've added a secondary micro bevel there, just not one glaring to the eye (sometimes those too have a tertiary micro bevel). But it has to be sharp, but it clearly wasn't.
10:14 to 11:08 If the mass distribution is shifted towards the guard/handle area, and therefore it "handles better", doesn't that also mean that it will be a slightly worse cutter, all other things being equal?
I've heard that if you buy through Kult of Athena their sharpening service is much better. Also, I'm really interested to know more about that renaissance side sword looking sword hanging in the back left of the video. Is that the Munich town guard that windlass makes?
I'm not sure if you're responsible for a surge in interest in this sword, or if Windlass did not plan the roll out correctly but either way it seems this is impossible to buy off the shelf at the moment right now! Way to be a sword-tease Matt! =)
As I understand it, this sword was not being requested by distributors for a while, so not being produced and stocked. But Windlass are geared up to churn them out to meet demand if people want it.
Any thoughts on including the weapon dynamics computer on these style reviews? Also, what kind of work is it fair to expect a buyer to do themselves when they buy a inexpensive sword?
I personally buy inexpensive swords with the purpose of working on them. Giving them a proper apple seed edge, mirror polish, deburring pommels/quillions, etc. Maybe modifying some parts as well. I have 13-15 cheaper swords here and they all needed at least some work. The only quite good one was a 300 euro katana. I got this one last week (www.supremereplicas.com/en/p/sword-of-cassel--121529) and gave it a really shiny mirror polish today. Tomorrow I will sharpen it. Pommel also needs deburring.
If it were my "practical" sword I would keep the tip-most foot shaving sharp and slicy then go in a steeper edge angle down the blade where edge to edge contact would occur. I would even put 6" of a chisel grind by the hilt to use as a draw knife in the field...compass as a pommel, too. 😘
I have a similar sword from Windlass (Bosworth Long Sword) and love it but would like to improve the edge. When you say remove the secondary bevel would that be a scandi grind from the centre of the blade? Don't have the tools (skills) for an apple seed.
I personally made a sword this size for a friend and one for myself, nowhere near as pretty with wrought iron fittings and not the best finish but quite functional
I really like this sword but I don't have the skill to re-grind the edge to prepare it for proper cutting. Do you know of a service here in the UK I can have it shipped to that can do the work for me?
I believe the edges are done as they are to comply with Indian export laws. Much as Indian made muskets ship without a touch hole, their swords ship with a fairly blunt edge (~1mm thick) so that they can be sold as non-functioning "decorative" weapons, leaving people in the destination countries to drill the touch holes or sharpen the edges. I don't know if companies in India are prohibited from exporting functional weapons altogether or whether it's just much more expensive and difficult to do so (licenses, etc.).
Since the 15th Century brought full plate armour to the battlefield, it was almost impossible to kill a fully armoured soldier with just a sword, so instead longer two handed weapons were used more just to force the opponent to the ground easier, so then they could be killed with a dagger. Bigger the weapon, the more impact a blow could be.
Were scabbards of knives and or swords used in a defensive way with the off hand? In movie land we have kill bill katana sheathes playing Hollywood games. Is there any hema evidence or historical evidence for the scabbard deliberately used as a hooking or parrying device. Certainly in kung fu club knife play it has been experimented with. thoughts Matt
10:00 would you take it to a master swordsmith to remove more material to create a single gradient edge and reprofile for more distal taper by making the sword a tiny bit shorter? I.e. keep the meat on the blade at the hilt and reduce the tip
As I often do, I put these videos on for background noise first, then get around to re watching them when I can dedicate my attention to it's fullest, but in the brief moment I was paying attention to it I hear "Just be peening, haha, that peen, I'll sticking it into my vice, and I'll go with a hammer, and... I've personally peened lots of things..."
Hi Matt, you mention the sword would be better with a single edge or an apple seed shaped edge. i.e. lenticular. How is an apple seed edge put on a sword and how is it applied so its consistent along the full length of the blade?
That's definitely the kind of sword I expect an English knight of that period to use due to the preference for fighting on foot and all that, if I'm remembering my history correctly.
What do you think of swords made by Medieval Warrior ? I got one for cheep and was told it was in the same class as Windlass . Medieval Warrior Norman Long Sword 41" Overall Length. 33" Carbon Steel Blade.(not Razor Sharp) Wt. 4.0 lbs. Leather Wrapped Wood Handle with Steel type 2 Guard & a type A Pommel. Includes Matching Scabbard with Belt. Wt. 1.0 lbs.
@scholagladiatoria Have you spent time inspecting and reviewing spear heads while looking for which of many, in various price points, has the build quality to give confidence to use against wild boar. Disregarding the standard crossbar or tied toggles and including large hewing spears down in size to include double cutting edge lance or javelin heads. I'm working with assumption that the shaft remains in the round or is riven maintaining the strength of the grain verses a shaft in which the grain is not considered and even disregarded, sawn, sliced, cut. Perhaps you could share a link if such a video exists or tell your opinion if it doesn't.
I have a Windlass sword with a secondary bevel that I requested be sharpened when I ordered, but it really wasn't sharp at all. Does anybody recommend anyone in the Bristol area competent at sharpening swords?
So about the edge and the swords cutting performance. I know that at least in the United States the two main Windlass importers that are partnered with Windlass as a company are Museum replicas, and Atlanta cutlery. Or you can order from Windlass itself. Other companies also order windlass swords to re-sell. In any of these cases Windlass does not ship sharp swords. In-fact the rumor is, Indian laws for whatever reason do not let sharp swords be exported or produced. This is also true of Universal Swords, another mid tier Indian manufacturer. I don't know if this is the case with Windlass models exported to the UK, but if it is a universal thing that Windlass swords are produced and exported with a blunt edge and this was sent to you sharpened, it is most likely a bad sharping job done by the middle man who sharpened it, and not Windlass themselves. For instance if you buy windlass here from the aforementioned sellers, or Kult of Athena another popular sword retailer in the States. *They will sharpen the sword at the shop before it ships to your home for an extra fee, and the quality of the sharpening is dependent on the shop you ordered from. Not windlass. Therefore the sharpening and sharpness of the blade really can't be considered a criticism of windlass swords.*
Hi, so it's true that India has specific laws about sharp blades. However, Windlass have a permit to make, sell and export sharp blades. They can make and sell sharps as sharps.
@@scholagladiatoria That's interesting to know, I should at least note anecdotally, that from my searching and purchasing of Windlass swords here in the United States I have never seen a sharp sword for sale as-is. They almost universally are sold blunt, and have to be sharpened by a third party for an additional fee. I don't know if this is a uniquely American issue. However it has consistently been my experience. So it's something to consider if you are an American buyer.
@@-Zevin- there's the Windlass Battlecry lineup, which is sold sharp. Not sure if they are exported as sharp directly out of India or sharpened afterwards though.
@@viluukx6609 Thanks for that, I actually had never seen the battlecry lineup and had to look it up. Cheap too. I wonder why those are sold sharpened and everything else isn't. I'm tempted to just write windlass or museum replicas and get to the bottom of it.
@@-Zevin- I bought a battlecry sword from Knightshop in the UK and ordered it sharp. The tip had clearly been worked on and was sharp enough, but the main cutting edge, although polished and shaped as if it COULD be sharp, was not really sharp at all and failed the paper and fingernail test. You can safely run your palm down the edge. Beautiful sword though. Also has a secondary bevel.
As a knife guy it blows my mind just how dull modern swords are out of the box. The sword you got right there is DULL, don't tell yourself otherwise. It's not ''not very sharp'', it's pathetically dull, period. Here's a fun fact, most swordsmith I've met are somewhat bad at sharpening but they don't want to admit it or have someone else sharpen for them. I understand cause working with softer, more resilient steel at 54HRC is very different from a hardened one at 58 HRC so I understand, but it's crazy just how much they are underminding their own work by not putting a razor edge on it, sharpness absolutely matters. Don't buy into that John Clements bullshit, just because a sword can kind of cut a tatami mat without an edge doesn't mean sharpness isn't a priority. Without a really sharp edge it is literally impossible to cut into cloths, let alone leather. This is why I still have respect for Japanese swords even though they are not as flexible as longswords, hardness is relative and it makes a big difference, a blade at 60HRC is going to cut softer materials way more efficient than something like 54HRC. There's a reason we jump from bronze to iron to steel, it's not just material strength, the edge hardness also plays a huge rule. When cutting the same soft material, the harder edge is going to perform much, much better than softer ones.
Historically did the smith sharpen the cutting edges of his products, grind the profile and pass the weapon on to someone skilled at sharpening or did someone else profile and sharpen? It seems to me a master smith would have a few underlings to do a great deal of what the meistro was overseeing.
