Thanks for the upload, I’ve always been fascinated with this product. It clearly has limitations but when the use case is in its pocket (hat har) it seems to get the job done.
Hi, just bought a V2-50 and I have difficulties to machine aluminum -> I have tool pullout problems. Have you had that problem in the past? So far, I only tried 2 flutes tools and many speed and feed combinations. I saw that you used a 4mm 1 flute end mill. Have you had any good result with 2 flutes end mill or I should go with 1 flute?
I also had a lot of tool pullout issues when I started. The spindle on the V2-50 is known to lack tool clamping force. I've worked around that by doing almost all roughing with 4mm shank tools. You will likely get better MRR if you use single flute tools, as then you can run the spindle faster. The overall power is best in the 43k-48k rpm range. I do basically all roughing with the 4mm Datron single flute that Pocket NC sells (you can also get it directly from Datron now). I can run it at roughly 1mm^2 of cross-section (5mm DOC x 0.2mm stepover for instance) at 750mm/min and can get a bit more if I only use new ones. I've tried to get as much 4mm tooling as I can to minimize collet changes, but it isn't nearly as common as 1/8" shank tooling.
Hi Josh! Silly question from a newbie. Can you have different designs or topography on the opposite sides when you window machine something? Can you window machine an organic shape like a human head? Thank you.
@@awesjosh Yes, the tabs are important and their placement too. I only want to do plastic figurines. I am buying a Pocket NC. Software isn't my forte, but I have many STL files which I now have to learn how to convert and so on (software is truly scary for me)! Thank you, Josh!
@@casade2831 Beware, it isn't just matter of "converting", you need to design toolpaths which is a discipline in itself. On another note, with the PNC, if your figurines fit within a 1" rod, you can just use the er40 collet and rod stock. That would likely be much easier than window machining from a solid block.
@@awesjosh Of course! I could have tabs inside the rod around the figure, right? The toolpaths and everything software have been why I haven't ordered my PNC. I only want to learn this one particular process for now. Maybe I am too old or something. My plastic rod is 2 1/2 inches in diameter. Maybe I'll need a holding base? If so, I am ok with buying one if needed. You are too kind, Josh. What pieces of software will allow me to do this? Maybe I can hire someone to do these software steps for me.
@@casade2831 For a figurine with a base you might not need any tabs. Just machine it and then part off. There is no off the shelf workholding for stock that size. You will need to make something. I use Fusion 360. It is unlikely you will find someone willing to do CAM for you at a rate that makes sense, but you never know. There is a PNC FB group you could ask in.
It is rigid enough for the spindle power to be the limiting factor as far as MRR is concerned (it is a pretty wimpy spinde). But yeah, with spring passes, parts come out OK if you're willing to wait. That part took like 3 hours of machining time. ;)
Yeah, and here I wanted to make 4 different versions with slightly different tolerances. I certainly would like something faster, but I'm limited in space and noise so this gets the job done.
@@awesjosh Thanks! I am trying to decide if I want to buy a Pocket NC for a number of projects I am working on out of wood. The stock for each would be around 4 inches wide, 1 inch deep, and 3 inches tall. I know on their site they say a 3inch cube fits comfortably on it but that doesn't answer my question. They also give the perimeters of the x,y,z axises but we all know that doesn't mean you can put a stock on of that size lol. I would hate to buy the machine and realize I couldn't use it for my intended purpose.
You could likely make that work in some orientations, but not in all. There is no off the shelf workholding for stock that large. Depending on the material, cycle times could be very long.
