The backflow manual describes ONLY passively draining the unit; blowing out must be done from the downstream side, with the last ball valve closed so than no pressurized air is blown through the actual main backflow unit. After all lines are blown out, air is disconnected, then half-open all ball valves for winter.
Super helpful -- the best explanation of how to blow out a sprinkler system I could find on RU-vid. I figured out what compressor fittings I needed and went to HD and got them. Then I blew out my sprinklers, my mother-in-law's, and my adult children's systems also. It went great even though my compressor only has a 6-gallon tank. Thank you so much!
Thank you so much for this video DIY DAVE! I blew out my irrigation system today and followed your instructions to the letter. I am a plumbing contractor so the process makes total sense to me and of course I have all of the tools to perform this, but I have never had an irrigation system until now in my current home, so this video helped tremendously. I blew out my 7 zones in about 45 minutes and saved $85. Not a bad way to spend 45 minutes on a beautiful afternoon (I ate ice cream and watched videos in my garage while my 15 gallon compressor refilled).
Most PVC is rated at 200psi. Leave your compressor on because as soon as you start the zone it will go down and hover around 40psi. If you have a larger system go to the valve that's furthest from the backflow and manually turn it on. Let water drain out all the way of the main line. Set timer to test for 2 to 3 minutes a zone. No running back and forth or turning compressors on and off.
Hey thanks for this video, it really helped me to make the right choices. The "hot dog" style 8 gallon compressor is what I went with, they can be found for under $200. Manufacturers recommend against blowing out sprinklers through backflow preventer test cocks. I didn't have a hose bib or drain after the backflow on my system. I wound up getting an adapter from my local hardware store to hook my compressor to the top test cock on the backflow preventer. I took the the bell cap off. Whenever air was turned on, I would gently pull up the bonnet and lever up the spring assembly on the poppet with a flat-blade screwdriver to provide enough pressure to the system.
What I do is close the line before the vacuum breaker, charge the line and slowly open the line. Never any issues for me. Your was should work too! Nice job.
Very easy to follow and explained perfectly for the novice like myself. Just blew mine out today. The forecast calls for 5 inches of snow tomorrow followed by overnight lows into the low teens. I figured I better get on it. Followed your method and it was a breeze. Thanks man!
Thanks for this. It was just what I needed, especially since you use the same system that I do and your instructions were the easiest I’ve seen so far. Perfect for the DIYer.
Just to critique, your supposed to hook after the back flow preventer to because you can damage it if blowing out before it, but you did say you did plan on putting the blow out attachment after the back flow preventer. also tip with the plumber tape... wrap it so it tightens the tape as you screw it into the threads, wrap counter clockwise in this case, just noticed the way you wrapped it, sometimes it can bunch up as you tighten. Good video overall though
I suck with the tape, I don’t often use it so I just try and wrap it. It’s not perm but sometimes it bunches like you said. I just do it over :) For the back flow. I close it and then charge the line and then slowly open it. No issues.
@@bugzie706 this was over a year ago and I’m not rewatching the video… like I stated wrap the Teflon so it tightens as is threaded in… this changes depending if it’s reverse thread application. Either way as I stated is the correct way to do it… so I guess that means your wrong…🤦♂️👌👍
Thanks DIY Dave. I purchased my home late last year and had never had an irrigation setup before. The previous owner said the lines would naturally clear with gravity. This spring I had 3 leaks to repair. With your guidance the process should be much easier come next spring. Thanks for the great tutorial.
When connect to the spigot there’s not enough pressure to close the vacuum breaker, it’s rated at 175psi. I had to to connect to the small valve after the breaker.
Dave why turn off the compressor before blowing out each zone? Why not allow the compressor to make up some air while blowing out the zone? You're the second person to suggest this - I'm just trying to understand why. Thanks in advance!
Great easy to follow video for uninitiated folks. One question though: Do we turn on air supply before opening a zone valve or do we open the valve first and then open the air supply valve. Thanks.
Dave---you may want to upgrade your system controller to something like a Rachio Smart Controller...you can control each zone remotely by using an app on your phone...easy peasy!
Be easier to not mess with turning on or off on the compressor as soon as you close the valve the tank should rebuild and then you can open the next zone without the added steps
I tried this approach but I was losing compression PSI when the tank was refilling which happens almost immediately if I don’t cut it off. I found it was stronger when I cut off the tank and let it completely discharge. I suspect it’s becasue of the tank size.
Why wouldn’t’ you leave the compressor in the run condition since the outlet valve would prevent you from accidentally over pressuring the sprinkler system?
wow you are good. You got a knack for explaining things. You make it less intimidating. Thank you. Is it possible to use a power washer instead of a compressor? Should be able to blow air instead of water from power washer?
Thank you for this video ,its very helpful.My question is,When my system comes on in the mornings its very frightening, its a loud rattling sound and vibration in the line.Thanks
Your channel locks will slip less of you turn them around so that the hook end is over the plug in the direction you want to turn. The teeth are directional. Not a huge deal but I like to give the tip. (I use channel lock pliers literally 100s of times in a day sometimes.)
Great video! I have a small 6 gallon pancake compressor and I ran my 7 zones with 4-5 heads at 40 psi like you said. The water pretty much ran to mist. Ran through each zone 4 times. I noticed a couple of the heads wouldn’t come up by the 3d cycle. Does that indicate there wasn’t enough air? Or is it most likely dry and there was nothing more to come out? Thanks again!!
Hey Dave great informative video why then does the irrigation companies say you need a large CFM compressor to do the lines properly I have a 130 PSI 20 gallon 5 horse compressor did it the exact same way you did yours do you do it two or three times to be sure all the water is out thank you for your time
I suspect it's because if you use a smaller compressor and only do it one time then yeah, it's not good enough. But that's why I do it three or 4 times. Works great for me.
Thanks for the helpful video. Should the heads pop up? The first zone did but the rest didn't. I used an 8 gallon 150 PSI compressor and it maintained 75 PSI through the regulator without dropping. Hadn't ran the system for a few weeks.
@@DIYDAVE Yes I fully charged the system and let it turn on to keep the psi up. My assumption is there wasn't a lot of water in the lines. I think you indicated you went through the zones a few times. After the inital time, did they in pop up? I had some water coming out the first time and less water after the first time. Could hear the air coming out.
@@laytonholmgren8366 ahh if you already flushed out the water and it went to mist then the heads will drop without water and pressure running through them so your zone is cleared.
Not clear if you are running your compressor and then opening valves or if you open valves then start the compressor??? Do I connect the compressor to the blow out valve then tune it to the right psi and then open up valves?
Charge your compressor to full then tune your PSI. Then turn off the charge switch. Then open your station valve until your compressor depletes. Close the valve and recharge your compressor and do it again until no more mist.
you need volume not pressure. I blow out at 50 psi but have a 30 gallon and a 40 gallon compressors to blow out irrigation systems.. 8 gallons is not enough volume
@@tomaswalsh-gomez8042 the number of zones doesnt mean much.. you can have two heads per zone, i would recommend a thirty gallon minimum assuming you have six to seven heads per zone.
I have 4zone sprinkler system. Each zone 4 head sprinkler. I bought 8gal 150psi compressor. I tried blow out water but it didn’t work.what am I doing wrong? Please, answer me. Thank you
What diameter of air hose do you use? I have a 3/8" ID hose and wondering if I should get a 1/2" ID hose. Especially given my sprinkler system lines are already 3/4" ID if I remember right.
Dave, what scfm pressure is recommended for 17 zones? Most tanks will hold 130psi. So I don’t think pressure is an issue, but I noticed your tanks scfm was at 4.1.
You actually should put the plug back in. You just don’t tighten it down. Same concept as with the ball valves. They should all be left 25% open (one-quarter turn). Leaving any of them all the way open, or all the way closed can cause issues.
Make sure your connector is before the backflow though. I’ve done this kind of work for countless years and if your winterization connection is after the backflow, you won’t get all the water out of the system and, risk destroying your backflow if it freezes over the winter.
I didn't get to blowing out the sprinkler system yet, it's Sunday and snowing since early this morning, down in the teens, everyone is closed right now, I turned off everything, will my sprinkler pipes underground be ok till tomorrow?
We’re both in the same place. I didn’t get to blowing mine either and it’s been dropping. In my experience it takes a few days and very cold spell to affect the lines in the ground but the copper fittings above ground can freeze over in a day when it’s prolonged below 32. Get to it ASAP. It’s 32 here today and this is what I will be doing
No, no, no! Do not blow compressed air through backflow. Can damage backflow. Connect compressor downstream of Backflow. Also, all bacflow valves at half open 40 degree angle including test cocks.
I wouldn’t use smaller than the 8 gallon I’m using. With that said if you already have a 6 give it a try. You many need to do each zone a few more times.
Nope, nope, nope. Sprinkler winterizing cannot be done properly with such a small air compressor. CFM is the only thing that matters, you have to have enough air flow to get behind the water and push (generally no less than 12cfm). An air compressor such as yours has around 4cfm, this causes the air to "float" over the water in the pipe at a certain point, giving the impression that the line has been purged. You may be getting away with doing it this way for a few reasons but most will not be so lucky. Considering the cost involved repairing damages it's irresponsible of you to post this vid as if you know what you are talking about.
Whoa whoa whoa Nelly, "nope nope nope" I appreciate your lively response but calm down, I know it lacks proper etiquette to tell someone to calm down but calm down lol bc you're partially correct, which makes you wrong lol. It can be done with a small air compressor, the guy in the video may be a poor teacher and communicator and made mistakes, but it can be done. Have a good day 😂
@frayperry3704 Uhm what, sounds like you are more worked up than I am, maybe it's you who needs to calm down. Anyway, no, it can not be done with such a small air compressor, it can only be done partially, which is why I said "he may get away with it". I do this for a living, professionally for 20yrs, and I go behind diy and weekend warriors all the time with the proper equipment and blow out the water they left behind.
I'm worked up because of you buddy, with your watered down advice, and it can be done, and with your experience you should know that, it just takes longer. 20 years, It's sad, you are the reason why I do things myself bc I swear workmanship or craftsmanship is overrated, no one knows what they are doing or what they are talking about. You and ppl like your kind just regurgitate what someone taught you, without you actually studying the science behind it. Like I said, it can be done, and the fact that you could care less about inquiring as to why I am stating it can be done speaks volumes about your frame of mind.
@frayperry3704 Watered down, yup, watered down to simple physics...air is lighter than water, without adequate volume the air will ride free space over the water in the pipes. At 4cfm there isn't enough volume, no matter how much time you put in...it's that simple, as taught to me by I don't know, my 5th grade teacher. So maybe climb down off that horse you named arrogance, I diy a lot of things myself, but I don't pick fights with physics
You are one of em aren't you, the weekend warriors who go around ripping people off with your little electric pancake air compressor? I live in a fairly large city and I see you guys all the time. Occasionally I'll knock on a door you just left and finish your shoddy diy job just to show people how you stole from them. I don't fight it too much though, cause in the spring they call me to do the repairs, not you. Guys like you help guys like me get off to a good start earning an honest living in the spring lol. Thanks!
HUGE problem with your technique. You are blowing air THROUGH your backflow preventer. THIS IS WRONG. Air should never be pushed through the backflow preventer. Any Irrigation specialist will tell you this!
Thanks for your very inaccurate comment. Been using this type of machine for over a decade and never one problem. And my own irrigation pro said it’s fine. It will take you a bit but it’s fine. It seems most of the comments like these are from Irrigation Pros losing business to DIY. Adapt or Die is my business model.
@@DIYDAVE Agreed! Remember that water expands only 11% when frozen. So you don’t need to necessarily remove every drop of water from the lines with a very powerful compressor. Just need to remove enough water from the lines such that it won’t freeze and expand such that it will cause damage. I saw and chatted with the Pro that came and did it my house and did the entire job in less than 20 minutes and going rate is $90 in my area. Saw the entire process and easy enough for the DIYer.
