Wiring for DCC with N Scale Kato Unitrack 

By FAR the best Kato wiring video I've found yet! Thank you for clearing up a lot of things for me. Just making the jump to Kato Unitrack and hope to make the jump to DCC this Christmas/early next year

Very simple and informative. This video is by far the easiest to follow for wiring a DCC layout!

Mike, this is the first time I have seen one of your videos. As a newcomer to n guage, yours was by far the best I have seen. It was clean, not wordy and easy to understand. Some of the other videos had me totally confused. Thanks!!

Great advice! Never gets old! Thanks George

I may have to order a few of those powered jointer cables. I have one of those little feeder track pieces like you show on my workbench loop but as you stated it requires a similar length section on the opposite side. Not a huge deal in this case but it you're needing to have very specific track routing and lengths it may become a problem.

Very informative for someone building a N-scale layout with Kato track and running DCC. Thank you.

Another great how to Mike, another tip for your viewers, you can also solder feeders directly to the bottom of the rails through the 1/8 3/16th notches right after the unijoner molded part of the track.

Mike, you were correct about isolating the turnouts, I have Kato HO scale, I ran all my track like any other and yes I experienced the dreaded turnout short. I then proceeded to take your advice and install track isolators. Thanks for the good advice.

Mike I thought you did a great job. I never thought of turnouts and feeders like this. Great video

Mike as you know my N scale layouts have always been DC. each one of my blocks are long enough for a 18 car passenger train + 4 E unit Consist of loco's. That's at least 9 ft. I've never had any problem there either and some blocks are still even longer. Your right on the money with this Mike. Very informative video that should help a lot of people out.

Mike, I'm amazed every time I see one of your videos how I fully understand what you're saying. That's amazing for me because I just got back into model railroading and most of what some other people are talking about just doesn't make any sense to me. I'm so happy that I have you to go to if I have a problem. God bless you!

Hi Mike a great how too. I finally have my shed empty, now the task of insulating and lining it for the build. Oh yes and I have changed the shed I am using to a slightly larger one of 28x11, so it should keep me going until I get carried out in that dreaded wooden box. I loved your video as usual, just keep em coming.

Hi Mike. I'm thinking of moving on from OO gauge DC and getting into n gauge and DCC and found your video regarding points extremely interesting. Other experts talk about "cutting wires....adding wires....switches to change frog polarity..." etc. So, just to double check, are you saying that all we need to do is provide isolators on all four 'downstream' rails and the job is done? Best wishes, Alan

Mike, I use the feeder track sections. To assure against the plug coming out, I fix it in place with a piece of electrical tape. As for distance or placement, I put a power lead before all turnouts on the mainline.

If poss drill a hole big enough under the feeder track were you can put your finger through to push it back in if it comes lose or cable clip it close to the feeder under the base board to keep it secure great vid keep up the good work

This video is awesome as I’m going to kato unitrack for my layout and saw this and your video on turnouts this helped

Would really like to see a slow, detailed, closeup overview of your layout. Have done some t trax layouts for shows but now I’m doing my first long term home layout. Loved what little I saw in the background of your dcc unitrack video. Looking for great ideas. Thanks Steve

Gotta love kato track. I have it in ho. I have feeders every 5ft or more too and no worries. Same with my marklin ho

Very informative.

Hiya Mike, Great video, I'm new to model N-Gauge and model railways, I've just ordered my very first Kato Unitrack starter set. Bostin video, I'll be watching some others too.

Thanks for the helpful tips on alternate ways to wire track using joiner wire connectors and bus.

Thank you very much. Just what I needed!

I FOUND IT! TY so very much! :)

This is such a great explanation - thank you ! You leave no detail out.

super informative for a new n scale guy like me!

Once again Mike very well done and informative. Just about to do that now.

This was very helpful, thank you!

A great video Mike!I never thought of adding insulated rail joiners abs powefeeds yo Kato . I like to callit “ Kate-O” . Thanks uyiu should gdde a link to yuyrvhovby store abs the railroad joiners snd Rhode those rail joiner pier feeds, thanks and subscribed, George

Hi Mike! Thanks for posting so many helpful videos. I'm starting to wire my layout and regarding the turnouts (Kato #6) why do you insulate the four rails leaving the turnout? My layout is not big so I have only one booster.

Very good video answered a lot of my questions

Really helpful for the turnouts. Thanks! Would you show when you have two turnouts in a row? Thanks

I purchased the Bachmann N Scale Roaring Rails DCC Train Set and after a couple of years I decided to change back to DC powered track. Now using Kato with having 4 multi track layout with three crossovers. I also installed separate push button toggle switch, to power on/off to each track, so I can wait for a train to pass before crossing over with another train. I'm only using one Kato DC controller which powers the whole layout, running 4 DC trains with it and having alot of fun too :0) ... My Question: would it be easy to change that Roaring Rail GP40 DCC engine back to DC ? how would one change that specific DCC engine back to DC as it runs way too slow on a DC powered track, even when its the only train on the layout ... Thank you

Thanks Mike as usual y I u did a good job of explaining how to. ..

I am trying to learn basic wiring beyond a simple oval. There is suggested plan whis a loop and a run around involving two #6 switches, a left and a right. I get a short when switching on to the run around track. I just watched the above video. I believe the problem comes from the switches going in the opposite direction which is what the diagram says. I have no experience yet with more than one feeder or the proper use of insulators. Can you help me understand these better?

You SUCCEED, Mike - hands down !

Do you have a link to a video that shows a detail of your track setup? Do you have drawings of your plans? One of your 2018 videos showed you starting over with a lot of elevated track.

I don't understand what you mean by insulating the turn out tracks because while the black joiners are insulated, the rails would connect and possibly cause issues. Do you have a way to provent the track making a connection with say paint on insulation on the ends of the track? Or, can you get a short plastic rail as an insert?

Very informative. Can that Kato item you showed at 8:18 be daisy chained? The reason I ask is because I have two crossover tracks for an inner and outer oval. If I understand correctly each side of the crossover needs power originating from some point on that specific side. Thank you.

May I assume that the same basic principles apply to HO scale? Good tips.

Mike, You're getting better and better narrating these videos. Next stop: Hollywood?

Thank you for this video.

Wisdom! Thanks Mike!!

Mike, great video…I have a question though and that is: how to you handle a Crossover Switch for feeders and insulation?

If you're using the three-way splitter for the feeders, is there a way to temporarily separate the individual feeder joiner wires from the plug so they can get through the benchwork first before connecting to the splitter?

The thought behind Kato track and the concept behind all Kato stuff is in Japan houses are much small than in North America. There just is not the room for making dedicated layouts. The kits go on the floor and after playing is done it all gets picked back up. Its not intended for permanent mounting.

I am building my first N scale layout using the unitrack. One of my ?s is, on wiring single cross over from Kato double track, , . your video shows a possible need for gap at the far end of a single switch, Are there any special attentions for the single crossover with gaping. .Also, cross over on a double track the switches came with one b/r feeder wire but the switch has two locations for switch control. I am guessing it doesn't matter where it is plugged in. My thoughts are once it is to switch one side the other needs to follow too and so they will both switch at one time.

Mike, a quick Kato turnout question: For example, if I have two left hand N scale Unitrack turnouts (#6, 20202) forming a crossover between two parallel tracks, would it be necessary or in any way advantageous to use insulated joiners between the two turnouts on the diverging route where they form the crossover?Or can I connect them as is and just feed from the single side as you suggested?Thanks!Frank

hi Mike another great video full of info.. thanks for sharing.. vinny

Thank you so much. Every site or video alway said insulate turnouts none showed which part of the track to insulate

This is a slight apple and orange comparison. The wire joiners are good for people with permanent set ups. The small section feeder tracks are for people who are setting up on things like dining room tables where drilling holes is not really an option. Each has its use.

Great video but I'm still stumped. I'm creating a triple loop with turnouts in the center and all loops connected at some point. How do I insulate AND power turnouts that are hooked directly together (for yard layout and outer loop connecting to middle loop)??

Could you recommend a way to disassemble kato switch connectors to avoid having to drill a 1/2 inch hole into the foundation? I want to avoid too large a hole when threading the black/red wires underneath the foundation board. Thanks

Good evening from the UK! Thanks for this video, its been really informative. I have a few questions I'd like to ask you. 1) By putting insulators on all the points, this must surely create a dead spot on the point with no power supply (for the direction the point is not set to) - Does this not cause you problems if running a locomotive across it in a different direction and the point incorrectly set for the running of that loco? 2) How would you insulate a KATO 20-230 Double track crossing and KATO 20210. Thank you! -Andrew

Merry Christmas Mike from the Philippines

Hi Mike, I will be going to DCC within a month or two and I will start with a Digitrax Zephyr. My question is, after I run my buss wire around the track what do I do with the end of the wires? Do I just leave them hanging there, or do I reconnect them to the power source to make a continuous loop? Also, the yard turnouts scare me, say you have 4 turnouts in a row, do you leave the straight track un-insulated and only insulate the turnout track, I'm confused? Anyway, thanks again for another instructional video, you are helping me allot. Fred

Very good vid.I also insulated all outgoing tracks of the switches and it worked fine.Exception is the double crossover who needs feeders on all 4 joints.The terminal joiners are highly recommended.But i still wonder why the Kato US switches are different to the versions here in Europe.My switches have metalplates on the bottom and no possibility to change the power routing.

Hi Mike, I s there anyway to keep the kato proprietary white connector plugs ( track feeds and switches)without cutting them off and still use dcc with a track bus for the layout?

Mike thinking of going to kato! I have NCE PH PRO-R Not sure how would do signals on kato without Katos signals ! Was thinking IR what would you suggest? Will prob use digitrax ds64 for the turnout control can I run signals thru that also that will turn when the switch is thrown like with a tortoise?

Hi Mike, very good videos. Love watching them and learning a lot. I have one question which I cannot find an answer to anywhere on the web. I'm going to set up my Kato Unitrack for DC to start off with. I bought a Backmann EZ Command. So, when I go to DCC I want to use my Kato Switch Controllers that I will have been using on DC(I'm not a genius when it comes to wiring). Do I need to do anything special to use these switches for dcc? I can't find an answer to this anywhere. Thanks

Mike ,I e heard that Kato engines do not like anything over 12 volts abd thsy one should use a Kato pier pack or Sunil ISE to make sure yiu do it burn out those motors is gif true? George

Mike: I am following your "rule" of insulating the wye ends of Kato turnouts, but I'm getting confused when I have multiple turnouts in succession, as when I'm building my yard off my main line. It seems like I'll have some dead spots if I insulate all wye ends. Do you address this in any of your other videos? If I could attach a photo or diagram here, I could show you my situation. Jim

Hi Mike, great video. Are you isolating the turnouts for easier detection of faults or is there another reason?

Mike A person could use a Drop of Super Glue like Locktite Professional Zap a Drop up under the plug where it set's up against the Feeder Track then it wont come out.. Just a suggestion but using the feeders is excellent too..

Very helpful. Thank you!

Mike, I am using# 6 turnouts for a passing siding. I used 15 degrees 19 inch radius curves for the passing track but the spacing is still too wide next to the main line. Could you tell me which radius curve I need to get the spacing between the main and the siding more prototypically correct. Thanks

Mike, I am building a Kato HO layout, but, none the less, I enjoy your videos. I believe that the Kato N turnouts, as well as the Kato HO #6 turnouts are all non power routing turnouts. The Kato HO #4 turnouts that I am using are power routing, but can I prevent DCC problems with the track power if I always add a Terminal Unijoiner before and after each turnout?

Hi Mike, How do you connect the kato terminal joiners to the bus wire under the layout ? Do you cut off-the white kato plugs and use Suit case connectors or other ideas thst you might have. Thank-you,George

Thankyou Mike....my wife is an expert in digital ❤💥🩵🧩♾️💍♾️ thankyou bubbie 💙🔥🔥❤️ Robbie

Do you insulate all your switches Mike like for instance I have 14 switches do I need to insulate all 14

so.... if my entire n scale layout is 10"x31 1/2" yes that's INCHES, ...... how far apart should my connections be?

What do you use to attach the track to the base? Some sort of adhesive?

I'm brand new to N scale and will be installing KATO Unitrack for DCC eventually as I built a new N scale layout. Procedures were explained OK, but it would have been much more helpful so SHOW on a layout as you're installing the track, as well as EXPLAIN how it's done.

Hi I have a kato switch that lost its snap. Can it be fixed to function or do u need to replace it? Thanks, enjoyed your video's

So I just want to make sure for I am putting together a layout, when adding another turnout to another turnout. I don’t have add insulators but add feeder wires for power and my dcc trains will run fine without the insulators?

Hi Sir, how to connect 2 turnouts that form a crossing track between two parallel tracks. Thank you.

Thank you Mike

Just re watching your video and this question popped into my little pea brain. You run a buss wire the attach feeders, how do you do that, cut off the Kato plug or are there matching plugs coming off your buss line?

I have a question on the turnouts, what if I want to use the turnout controllers that kato offers, would I be able to hook them up to my turnouts, put all the controllers together then wire them to the dcc pack I'm using?

This video helped me SOOO much!!! Just one question, how could u wire this for Bachman DCC without having any Bachman EZ track? Thanks! -JG

Hi Mike, an informative video on KATO Unitrack turnouts and to consistently feed track power to the entrance of the turnout and insulating track feeds to the output sections. While I use KATO HO Unitrack, issues are similar but its turnouts are the reverse. In your video you show a KATO #6 N Turnout, which is power-routed and has a powered metal frog. The KATO HO #4 turnout is of the identical design. Alternatively, the KATO N #4 and KATO HO #6 turnouts have a dead frog with selectable power/non-power routing. Hence the KATO HO #6 are DCC-Friendly as would be the KATO N #4 Mistakes do happen but in my HO layout, if a loco enters a #4 HO turnout which isn't switched properly, there is short and the DCC system is interrupted. (A short would also occur in a DC system) So in your KATO N Scale layout, can you avoid these short circuits when entering an N #6 turnout from the wrong direction (that hasn't been switched properly)? Is there any solution really?

Hi Mike, great video but I'm having a problem with the N scale Kato double crossover on dcc. Whenever a train changes track it shorts out my controller. How do I wire the crossover to make it work? Thanks.

I'm getting back in to trains. N scale DCC Coffee Table size to start. Mini helix foam bed/base. Any train starter kits that can be recorded? Thanks. Nice presentation

Mike would you do the insulated rail joiners onn thr ends on a kato double crossover switch? Or just #4 and #6? Thanks, Grorge

Hi Mike , is there another method to connect he track feeders to bus as I'm not comfortable with soldering. Thanks.

DO YOU PUT THE PLUS SIDE OF THE WIRE ON THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE OF THE TRACK

Hello, I am new to this hobby but have quite a bit of N gauge unitrack and just running DC. Are the #6 turnouts electrofrog or insulfrog ? Are the #4 turnouts electrofrog or insulfrog ? Which is best for dcc elctro or insul, is there any difference in wiring ? If I want to still operate the points with DPDT switch how can I do this with DCC ? Thank you.

What is a typical size of layout for a beginner to N scale Kato layout that you would recommend?

And if I use dc locos on dcc track setups, will the loco still run? What about the opposite, dcc on dc track?

I did this and did a double turn out. I isolated the second turnout and powered It. It did work accept if the switch isn't on the correct side leading it out, the loco stops and buzzes(short?). Any ideas? I mean I know the switch should be on the correct side. But If I for example forget not sure I want that happening to much. Or do I just live with it and not forget? hahaha

How do you Connect Kato To a Tech II Controller?

Do you have a video of your club? I would love to see 10k feet of unitrack on a layout!

I'm just wondering... when given the choice of (N scale) track: Atlas (or MicroEngineering) Why would one choose the Kato track? I see at least one issue with this stuff... The grey plastic "ballast" it is fastened to would amplify the noise of rail to wheels.. Using Flex track and cork below dampens the track noise immensely.

Can you use rerailer track as a feeder in between the turnouts that's isolated

Ever use the 45 degree turnout, 20241?

thank you so much

Does this work with HO scale?

hello mike, if i put a decoder on my locomotives, can i still run it on dc rails? thank you-pong ignacio

Hello there, what would be the procedure for tomix fine track is it the same? I will be using tomix fine track on my layout And also how about dcc chipping trains by Tomix, GreenMax, Bandai (Btrain shorty)

Is there a certain dcc converter to plug in for KATO N scale track?

Hi Mike. Very new to model railroading but I am well into my planning. So far I'm definitely going N scale and am looking at the Kato Unitrack particularly after seeing your series of videos and others. Another definite I have gone with is DCC and after watching this video I just had a question when it comes to DCC wiring when it comes to multiple turnouts for example in a shunting yard situation. In otherwords you had a set of unitrack turnouts linked together making up a yard. I'm specifically asking about the positions for the feeder wire joiners as supplied by Kato. I hope this makes sense.