Thanks for the video series. I’ve got one of these engines in an old Bobcat that’s going to need some work. It was good to familiarize myself with it before I dug in.
The hose off a compression tester works to pressurize a cylinder, if you remove the check valve. I'm happy to see that piston out! If soaking in oil doesn't work, a short term soak in coca-cola will dissolve the rust to get those rings unstuck. The phosphoric acid really cleans up rust nicely. I wish you the best of luck getting this thing running! It's a really cool engine.
+avaktech Man, now I AM pissed!!!! I typed in this paragraph to answer your question, and the Danged thing got deleted!!!! GRRRRRRR!!!! Anyway, I believe I used a brass or aluminum rod as a punch, tapping on it with a hammer , to push on the rod cap. Perhaps a large flat blade screw driver was involved also, I honestly don't remember. I am thinking putting one of these engines back together is gonna be a REAL joy!!! :)
I have 4 off these now, one runs pretty well, 2 are seized and one spins but has a bad piston. I think I'm gonna pull the cylinder off, hone it, and stick a new piston in and see what happens. Thanks for your reply!
+avaktech You are welcome, best of luck repairing that engine, these things are very old designs, mine has the babitted con rod bearings, I have never seen that before.
try a heat the piston and soake it in a mix of Diesel and 2 stroke oil and keep doing it till the rings are un stuck i have done that for years works like a hot damn! good luck ps maybe sum mustard might help lol
Not anything to lose hope in. I'm sure it'll run. If you'd need anything like bushings or bearings you're a few hours away from getting them via lathe. Keep us updated on how the honing of that cylinder works out.
I almost got myself a Bobcat with a Wisconsin last night for $1000 , Then I seen the engine was stuck from siting with no carb / exhaust , then It got me thinking about your video and I backed out of the deal , the bobcat would of needed WAY to much work seeing it was not used in over 10 years.
found engine housepower specs for all wisconsin engines heres the link classic-engines.com/engines-2/wisconsin/ if need engine torque and other specs just ask
Well as a wise man once told me....if it's free you can make it run. At this point I would say it's as free as it can get, so a running vid is surly to come.
Couple tricks for ya. Take a 1/4" dia. shank bolt thats a few inches long or more, cut off the threads, cut off the head and cut a slot in one end down the length 3/4 to 1" deep. Take a small chunk of scotch-brite pad and wedge in the slot, you now have a buffing shaft you can put in any 1/4" shank air or electric tool or a drill, works great for stuff line valve guides, lifter bores, etc. Just adjust the size of your scotch pad for the bore. You can make a smaller one with the same principals. Judicious use of rpm helps it work but they are pretty gentle on surfaces. If you drill a hole in one ear of the slot, tap it for a small grub screw and you can use it to hold sandpaper too. You might try vinegar to help remove rust or even ketchup on the cheap, works decent enough, also heard of molasses too, works by chelation, like evaporust. Another thing to make note of is before pulling a valve through a guide, feel the the keeper land in the valve stem, often and especially on square-groove keepers, they wear and fret and put a nasty burr on the stem and it can scar up the guides something fierce, I always deburr that edge with a fine file or stone first. If you don't have any, find yourself some Kroil or Aerokroil penetrating oil, i've tried most out there and it is unparalleled, not cheap but worth every penny! It will free the worst frozen items.
mytmousemalibu Thanks for the advice, I will keep it in mind.I know what you mean about the keeper creating a burr edge on the valve, I have found that quite a few time on briggs lawnmower engines, I file it off before pulling the valve back thru the guide. I will have a look at this, though I didn't notice anything on it.
1972FordF150 I will soak it a while then try my little flat blade screw driver prying on the ring end gap gently, normally it works pretty well, I have only broken a ring or two over the years. I bought a new ring set with enough rings for 2 pistons.
ChargerMiles007 Find a jar the piston fits in, and soak it in the cola, simply. Keep checking on it, a few times a day if possible, it shouldn't take terribly long to dissolve that rust. Try to wiggle the rings every time you take the piston out of the cola. Once they start moving, wash the piston off and use oil to finish freeing it up. Just don't leave it in the cola any longer than needed, to keep it from pitting. I haven't done this myself, but that's the safest way I can think of to do it.
Why put so much time in these old engines you cant get parts for or the parts are crazy high I have thd and if I had replacement for it I would get rid of it I am to point of hate these engines only reason for that is price for parts I need a lot to get mine running correctly.
I guess it depends what parts you need, I found new piston rings to be quite reasonable on e-bay. The cheapest way to get parts is to buy a whole used motor, that way you get everything at once. Though admittedly, this is a fairly large and heavy engine. My plan makes more sense for a lawnmower engine or chainsaw etc.. Though I have been known to have a spare car engine or 2 around :)
