Tim 2 tips: 19:48 1) to tighten the taper shafts on tie rod ends and ball joints use an impact wrench. The pulse of the impact moves the nut while reducing the spin of the taper shaft allowing it to tighten. 2) to remove tie rod ends, another option is to lift the vehicle so that weight will work in your favor on tie rod ends then hit the mount bracket for the taper shaft with a hammer. Good solid taps with a decent size hand held hammer. A good penetrating oil on the taper shaft may help. Avoid heat as it will likely melt the boot. However when the joint is bad as in what you replaced, the tie rod fork is perfectly acceptable. Yes you will damage the boot most of the time but you are replacing so not a biggie.
Hey Tim taper fits require a lot torque on the nut otherwise the taper will quickly loosen up and then you’ll have to add a steering knuckle to the parts list next time. Use an impact wrench and you’ll have no problem. Have watched you for years, keep em coming and I’ll keep watching!
Hey Tim, Funny to read all the mechanics and how they do it. I too have done a lot of tie rods and agree with all. You definately want the taper tight, if it isn't the taper will wear and that can be a real issue. In that case you would have to knurl the taperd hole to get it tight again. PS, I had a capachino with Hill Climber coffee this morning, excellent stuff and a great cause!
The tie rod ends are listed as Right and Left, not for side of the machine but it describes the threads. A Left Hand thread and Right Hand thread is needed so the tie rod can be adjusted as an assembly, functioning like a turnbuckle to adjust toe in/out.
When removing tie rod to be saved if hammering to loosen joint be sure to put castle nut on loosely to protect threads if you miss :) Also a pneumatic air hammer or sometimes called muffler gun do have power pickle fork tool available. And downward force with a pry bar or big c-clamp assists in tightening castle nut. Avoid hammering tie rod as I saw you doing Tim as it may damage. Also lube the threads and nut! Advice from retired auto mechanic and shop owner for 55 1/2 years (started at Dad's shop at ten).
It is rewarding to repair your own equipment. It helps you understand what makes things work. And you get to know your equipment. I am glad you talked with an operator of this tractor. I enjoy these types of videos.
Always appreciate watching your videos showing how to do repairs. Your videos are more relatable as I feel I’m learning along with you. Plus a lot of good comments that offer some pointers. Thanks for sharing. Blessings.
When they're referring to the right and left hand tie rods they are referring to the thread type on them. Ran into this several times over the years unfortunately. Figured it out the second go around though 😅
Use old nut, ground off castle section or thinner comparable nut. Install and tighten nut, now place drift through cottered hole to keep tapered shaft from spinning. Tighten firmly with wrench then remove nut and install new castle nut torqued and install cotter pin.😊
Just as a trick, you can usually get the tapered joints apart (at least on cars and trucks) by smacking the outside of the knuckle casting over the taper with a dead blow ball peen hammer, and it'll pop right out without damaging the boot.
Some farmers would have cut the ball joint off the cylinder and weld on a new one. I also agree with using an impact to tighten the joint down. I have drilled and tapped new ball joints so they would have a grease zerk to help them last longer.
When I replace a tie rod end to seat the taper I use my impact driver to tighten the nut to pull the taper tight. Then I loosen the nut and tighten it with a wrench to get my desired torque and install the cotter key
Tim as a mechanic for the majority of my life now. You can easily separate tie rods with a good smack on the side of the knuckle with a decent size hammer.. what it actually does is ever so slightly compress that taper and push that joint right out.
Tim there should be a torque spec for the tie rod end. air or electrical impark gun or use a c clamp to add pressure to the tie rod end, or even your hammer trick. its probably ok but I would hit it with a impark gun
Tim I believe you originally said you ordered the right hand side of tie rod end. You have to order parts like that from the drivers seat. So when you are looking at the front of the tractor it is the right hand side but technically it’s the left hand side.
Only thing I would do different is to get a Tie Rod Puller. Pickle forks work but for $20-35 a Tie Rod Puller works every time and does not demand the rubber like a pickle fork. Both are good to have but a puller is a lot quicker.
From my experience if the rod end is the right part for the other side keep it because soon after returning it will be needed. Spare parts on hand is never a bad thing. Unless you didn't buy parts then it's not good😂 On a side note (not to offend or start and argument)tips and tricks are nice to share but get torque and other specs form manufacturers or reliable data source. Not from Jimbodinie who use to align or torque his VW bug to such and such and it was fine. Be safe not sorry
everrybody, new tools are cheaper than dealerships hands down every single time for small ticket repairs! i figured out using a cap nut on the taper shaft and then using an air hammer with a blunt end usually vibrates and impacts enough to free the taper shaft from it's collar. if it's corroded around the opening tho, penetrating oil and sometimes heat might be required, in that order, just a brazing torch over the lower metal assembly give it a few good taps and then let it cool back to room temp. if you don't have an air or electric impact, using a C clap out in the field is usually enough pressure to seat it so you can properly seat and lock it down with out needing to redo it in the shop later. not a made in china C clamp but a good medium duty/thickness or better made in usa, spain, italy, germany
I found there are two different front tie rod ends for my 3320. Deere offers a greaseable one but the entire tie rod must be changed for it to be fitted ... ask me how I know
If you don't have an impact wrench use a prybar and apply some pressure in the direction of the taper Then use the biggest wrench in your box and put the snot on the nut
Hi Tim I have found any tools that I need I have bought. Thinking I won’t use it after I’m done with it. After having it I find more jobs I use it on. Thinking how I did before with out it. Tools are never a waste of money.
Another option to having the correct tool to separate the tie rod ends is to "rent" the tool for free from O'Reilly, Autozone, etc. Essentially, you buy the tool, do the job, and return the tool for your money back.
Get a grease needle so you can grease them and they'll last much longer and hit the out side edge of what the rod end goes through firmly with a heavy hammer and they'll pop loose
Tim have you ever heard why they don’t make the Steering Cylinder ball joints replaceable? Seems like every tractor with some hours on them get loose and wore. I have had to replace the whole cylinder also on a old 4100 I had. Was tempted to weld a new end on it.
Tim, I'm not sure on a tractor but on a car we would have the tires toed in about 1/8th of an inch. Reason being as you drive the vehicle forward the slack is taken up on your front end parts as you drive it forward which then makes the front tires flair out. And then in theory they would be perfectly even front to back as you drive.
For your own knowledge, that's old school 50s/60s thinking. On pickup trucks I set toe to 0 or you will wear the outside edges. Front wheel/all wheel drive vehicles sometimes call for some toe out to compensate the front tires pulling forward.
The "towers" of the castle nut have to be in range of the hole. So what ever it takes to over come a long or short bolt to align the hole and the towers. Just gota shoot through the hole and towers so they are aligned. ;-)
Didn't they use to put grease fittings on the ball joints? Anyway, your videos are all good common sense and useful information. Thanks and keep up the good work.
Something that I've been thinking about for a while, is there a time when you put on too much ballast? Would the extra weight hurt your hydrostatic transmission? Cause problems with say the steering? I'm not trying to be a know it all I'm asking because I really don't know. Thank you for all your videos, we enjoy watching them.
Hi Curt. I failed to mention in this video...a major data point. This tractor was used with a front blade for most of its hours. In the winter, pushing snow. In the summer, they used it to assist when putting rock border along the road. They pushed the rock off the side of the side of the road with it. This blade would likely have caused a lot of wear on the tractor. I didn't put that all together until after I shot the video. In general, no, rear ballast won't cause issues. Heavy weights on the front end will challenge the steering system, as you see here.
on our ford 8n toe in on the front measurement should be 1/4 less than the back measurement ,most tractors toe inany way once in motion they straighten out,so I've been told.
A 5# short handle sledge or a large ball pein will force the defective rod out of the knuckle, as many have stated. Yes to impact to tighten the castle nut properly. Adding a zerk to all the otherwise 'lifetime' parts will upgrade the zerkless oem ones so you can add them to the greasing schedule. Suggest watching a few you tube vids before doing the job- could have saved time and parts reordering, etc. Just saying - otherwise good vid☝️
@@TractorTimewithTim if you had the parts disassembled prior to ordering replacements, you might have been able to order the needed parts 1st go round. Not meant to be a slam; merely an approach suggestion. Granted you seem to be working with a machine that was repaired previously by someone with dyslexic tendencies ...
The rule is the right hand threaded tie rod should be on the right side while sitting on the seat and the left thread on the left side. It is aggravating when people do not know that.
It is interesting that the earlier 3x20's had zerks. This is a 'later' part number. Apparently they were removed at some point in favor of the sealed joint.
It really irks me to see a company intentionally design parts to fail like this... which is exactly what they have done by refusing to put grease fittings in them.
