Looking into being an owner builder and researching everything has completely turned me off to all OSB products in the house. Im glad you guys made this video!
@@nikkik2115 OSB burns faster. It requires holes to be drilled into by the subs, costing labor time and weakening the structure of an I-joist. The chases allow the subs to do the work faster and cleaner. Theres also adequate space for a sprinkler system, hvac, and extra wires like Cat 5e, hydronic, etc. It costs more upfront, but trusses are my preferred method.
I used them in my home and the BOUNCE!!!! I am spanning 28' and they are on 19.2 centers. The center of the trusses are roughly 2'x2' and house my AC duct chase. I could of span 34' with the ones I have. Picture a rectangle 48' long by 28' wide for part of the house. 30' of the floor carry 3 bedrooms, 2 baths and a walk in closet. When walking down the hallway floor during the first month it was quiet. By the 2nd month you would get squeaking and popping. If you walked down the remaining 18' which is a open floor plan you could fell the bounce and it would vibrate my wife's China. Do to the bounce, The interior wall nails were moving causing this. I ran an I beam down one side of the 2x2 AC duct opening and it made one side of the house quiet while the other side still made noise. I then put the I beam center of the AC chase with 2' angle iron on each side of each truss so I could push up slightly on the angle which would then push up on the 2 vertices that make up the AC vent chase. (You cant push up on a horizontal) This fixed my problem but now I have a beam!!! I ended up building 2 bedrooms in the basement to fix the issue. I put 2 headers in with a wall under each side of the AC chase and added a couple poles to crank up on the trusses. Then those headers ended up becoming closets for the bedrooms. I then cut and removed the I beam for the first 20'. Now I have roughly 20' of I beam left as the other 8' on the other side of the house is my furnace room and I added some walls to address the trusses. So now im looking on line about adding steel lateral bracing so I can remove the I beam as this portion of the basement is a open floor plan. MAKE SUSRE YOU DO YOUR RESEARCH OR HAVE A PLAN TO HELP SUPPORT THESE IF YOU DON'T WANT THE BOUNCE!!!
You have BOUNCE because they were not engineered to a HIGHER standard. You probably went with the MINIMUM code standard of 1:360 when you could have specified 1:480. READ this column of mine: www.askthebuilder.com/bouncy-and-springy-floors/
At 28' vs the 34' max he's stating and 24" depth those trusses at 19.2 spacing are well beyond 48, closer to 60. If it happened over time it sounds like the nailing plates are inadequate or you have more loading than the trusses can handle. The live and dead loads are listed. I doubt you're in excess though and I believe I was looking at the same source of mtruss mmanufacturer. I think I've changed my mind on source at the least, not interested in bounce.
Is there a reason the 2x4's are oriented that way, instead of vertical like on roof trusses? Wouldn't they be stronger that way? Also is it possible to span more than the max length of a lumber member with these? Ex: if you are building your own trusses and only have 8' lumber can you make a truss longer than 8'? What is the proper way to secure the joints in that case?
The orientation can be either way. Matching strength and deflection tolerances can be achieved with either orientation. You can span distances greater than the length of the lumber. These trusses are 28 feet long. Secure the joints in DIY trusses? Time for you to reach out to a licensed structural engineer!!! Here's the link to get FREE bids: www.homeadvisor.com/ext/32182231
I'm considering floor trusses for my next house. I wonder if you could reduce their height while maintaining the same level of deflection if you could assemble a cross/90 degree truss on site that works in conjunction with the parallel joists. Or perhaps the deflection quality could be improved by using a larger joining plate - while that would reduce the opening size for MEP, it might not be necessary on each join. The trusses in this video have larger plates than many companies - I'd like to see their specs.
@@boedillard8807 Well, you know what to do, right? Get out your credit card and go talk with your classmates that got an A in structural engineering while you were playing patty-cake out on the university green throwing frisbees around. :-)
I believe the span was 28 feet. If my memory is correct, they were about 24 inches tall. You can't just mimic them because there can be point loads within a house. A truss engineer using computer software DESIGNS the SPECIFIC truss for your job.
They are beneficial in many ways as the video states, however they aren't PERFECT. They are typically more expensive than traditional framing and because they are an engineered product have ZERO tolerance for field modifications. There are other open web products out there such as open joist that also allow mechanicals to pass through. Not to mention traditional I-joists are available now that have pre-punched holes you can hammer out to allow pipes and wires to pass. I work for the country's largest component manufacturer and we sell everything from wood trusses to wall panels, engineered lumber, pallets, shipping crates and even decking material. We also supply home stores their pressure treated lumber they sell. The #1 thing builders are concerned about saving is time. Using components means an entire house can be set in just a few days. From foundation to roof. That's $$ saved that offsets their cost.
Considering these. If I want to support a free standing claw foot tub, would I just toss in an extra truss under where the tub will go? Like a series of 8” on center trusses?
Think about this for a few moments. What's in play? Who has the skills to definitively answer your question correctly? It really pays to engage your critical-thinking skills God gave you. There are but two people that have this answer. Both have an acronym after their name: PE
If someone was building a house that needed to be relocated like a park model home could these be used for a flat roof rafter without causing issues with overall structure when the house was being moved
Hello. I have open web floor trusses that are exposed in a potion of my existing home where I like to exercise. What’s the best way to hang a chin-up bar and suspension webbing (TRX)? Can the trusses support that type of load?
Question.. when u lay out the open web floor joists, what product do u use going around the outside of the joists, do u the wall board coming up the main wall, or a thick LVL board going around the home...thanks
How might one fasten them to poured concrete walls? Must rely on the interior framing instead? Florida homes usually just do furring strips over rigid foam on the inside of concrete. Wouldn't be enough to support trusses for the second story. Just wondering how it's all done.
@@askthebuilder Your terms of agreement there state "Any and all advice or knowledge you take away from visiting my website, from a reply I send to you, from watching any of my free videos, or me talking to you over the phone or a video call is payment in full for life for anything you submit to me. " I would like to indeed ask my question, but without knowing the cost, and you able to reply the answer to me with the bill included might be costly. Too risky to ask my question without knowing the price. You sound like an honest person of course, but I'm scared of legal things.
It's so easy. I have HUNDREDS of columns on my website about each of the things you're about to do. www.AsktheBuilder.com If you get in over your head, I also offer a private tutoring service that's over-the-phone. I can give you help and pro tips. shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/
I'm sold on the idea. Now...how to not spend all the wood (pun intended) be money on everything BUT the project... I have a garage that is code for access and not storage. I would like to solidify the floor above. The roof has a truss type deal making triangles to the floor and it is uninsulated....24inch spaced 2x4s. I want to make the attic access door go away and make a l shaped stair well so the second half of the steps travel along with the slope of the roof line. After that is done.... I am thinking of either adding to the existing 2x4 to make a 2x10 (but truss style).... there are no supports on the bottom side of the garage ceiling. It is a 20x30 garage. My thoughts are to bring everything to the same level of the 3 2x10's that are at the back side of the bathroom shower/tub area... (So I don't have to step up and then step down...) Anywhoo.. Was wondering with the roof also being 24 inches spaced apart. I was thinking of just sistering 2x6s and keeping them at 24 apart. The floor joists would be 12 inches on center apart. I was also going to cut some triangles in the top of the roof's apex on the other side of the sistered portion where the 2x6s are. (If that makes sense) Think of a 2x4 between a 2x6 and a 3/4 plywood. This is in effort to keep the top from pulling apart at the seams with the added weight of the 2x6s. The plywood would be at the level where I want the drywall to be attached. Can you visualize this? Anyways the area won't be used for anything big. Just storage..but I also had the idea of opening up a balcony over top of the garage doors. I'm assuming that the weight of the balcony on the outside will help with the non support from under the garage. By counterweighting the pressure of the span. So the wall side holding up the garage door may need some reinforcing. Do you think a slightly less than 8 foot wide by less than 30 (due to the slope of roof on each side) is worth this? I'm pretty handy and would like to do this myself. To save money on installation etc... I live in York, Pa. Not sure where you are. Shoulda thought of THAT sooner....haha! Any pointers/insight? Also...these 2x4s that are in there now have the metal spiked plates holding them together. Could these be left in place and the truss joist be built onto them as they sit? I'm hoping that the drywall does not have to come down as I already have some storage racks between the garage and the garage door motor attachments etc. Would rather to build onto if I can. If not...then I guess I'll be pouring a concrete slab and build a shed instead.... Would really like to use the space above the garage though. 😀😇😎
Well, why don't you do the math? Figure out the mass of one of those trusses, then calculate the mass of using 2x12s PLUS the supporting wall you have to put mid-span. I'll end with this: Trees are a CROP no different than corn, soybeans, or wheat. Lumber companies usually plant THREE trees for each one they cut down on THEIR LAND. Do you understand that? THEIR OWN LAND.
These things are expensive. A lot more than regular joists. Must be nice to get them for free. Anywho I would love to have these over a basement foundation. Wide open basement with no support beams that I would be able to finish on my own at a later time
I negotiated a very fair deal with the Association. Trust me, they came out FAR BETTER than I did as this video and the other two I did for them are PERPETUAL marketing assets allowing folks like you to discover that they're far better than traditional joists. As you indicate, you'd LOVE to have them in your home. It's easy to get them. So easy. All you have to do is take a 17-week online course to start making $140,000 per year in your pjs.
It's NOT a stupid question. The issue is you need to use treated lumber and I'd be VERY CONCERNED about the corrosion of the metal connecting plates. You can make giant trusses using treated lumber, just connect them with the proper through bolts much like huge old iron bridges were connected with rivets.
I agree with the drywall install but omg the floors are all either bowl shaped or wavy. Wtf !! I think I needed more strong backs n proper placement !! But I just live here n don’t get paid !!
Excellent! I've got videos on my website showing how floor trusses are made in the jigs. Many are THANKFUL for your skills and work! Who knows, maybe you made the trusses in that photo used in my daughter's home!
My daughter's house was on Mt. Desert Island and ALL framing was panelized: floor trusses, interior/exterior walls, and giant attic trusses. They were made in Maine, but at a plant near Waterville on I-95 south of MDI. WE NEED more folks like you with a great attitude about working in these amazing factories!
A disadvantage I see is you can't put all the rim joists on and continue framing until your plumbing/HVAC contractor comes in to run their materials...
I hate to say this, but you're completely wrong. I was able to easily put 10-foot lengths of 3-inch cast-iron pipe into these floor trusses with the ends of the house all buttoned up.
Maybe that's the practice where you work/live, but that's not my reality. My subs got paid a fair wage. If they save 10 days of work by using floor and roof trusses and factory-made wall panels, they charge ten days LESS labor. My subs would never think to overcharge me because they knew I'd go shopping to find someone with great ethics.
Those are the trusses for the second floor of a house. Yes, trusses can collapse fast in a fire. What's the point? Fire departments should get a copy of all building permits. On the way to the fire, they look up to see if the structure has trusses of any kind. If so, the captain decides to just do a DEFENSIVE attack only sending someone inside to possibly save a life. The trusses become the INSURANCE company's issue.
@@askthebuilder No point. Just thinking out load. Light weight construction, great for builder, and building owner, a bit more hazardous for the firefighter. But totally passes code. Like you said. Saving a life of someone in these buildings add a little extra to be cautious about.
Lol and you'll ask for 10,000lb point loads to be put on these 12" deep floor trusses spaced 24" o.c. Sorry. I'm a spaced out aged floor truss designer asked everyday to design and engineer what CAN'T be done but HAS to. trusses are good but NOT perfect. Ask for more info,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Your comment makes no sense. You design the trusses per the information given on the plan and minimum code requirements. If an IDIOT homeowner, or business owner, at a later date overloads the floor causing a failure, that's not your problem. But you can do a 10,000-pound point load with no issues. Just put in the required support beneath the *point load*.
@@askthebuilder Makes sense to me because I've been designing them for 25 years. Well sure if you have a post or bearing wall under the point load it's a mute point but I design for shore homes that expect roof loading to bear down on clear span floor trusses all the time. Because of height restrictions that's why they demand 12" deep floors and because I'm Mid-Atlantic region they want duct chases EVERYWHERE. That and they now want L/720 deflection criteria on top. 12" deep floors with double top and bottom for design limitations leaves 6" in depth for ductwork. I swear we supply helicopter blades that they want to be stronger than steel. Architects design for what they want, we have to tell them when it's not possible. Many times architects can't solve their structural issues so they expect us to on our end. And in many cases the builder will remove webs and drill 3" holes in a 3 1/2" chord and 3 months later ask for a letter to satisfy their inspection. I've seen floor trusses installed upside down, girder trusses nailed into a supporting girder because they were too lazy to install the hanger, architects wanting a 28' attic room in a 30' truss, hot tub loading, wood floor trusses called out under a 2 car garage, ect. One guy came in asking for temporary trusses to be used as a form for a concrete bridge, he said they only need to support the 1500 sq ft loading until the concrete cured. Got a call from a contractor who claimed we shorted him like 4 roof trusses. Shipping ticket says they shipped. We called his bluff and showed up on site. Turns out they were using them to drive their forklifts on due to the massive amounts of rain they got the previous week. The trusses were buried in the mud! We are asked to pull off miracles all the time and even when we do it's always our fault when something goes wrong or can't be done. It's the nature of the business and it helps tremendously to have a competent sales staff. Otherwise it's the blind leading the blind!
@@wingmanalive- Sounds like you are so pissed off with your chosen profession and work routine you need to retire or take a break and find another more satisfying income earner.
wingmanalive is there a reason why the first level is bowl shaped floors about 1 1/2” low at the center n the second floor is wavy almost the opposite. What’s the answer carpet n don’t leave standing water spills ? Or better install n more strong backs ?
@@highball7347 Being a carpenter, these open web joists are the worst if you want a floor with no bounce. From what I understand also is that most US codes do not include bridging/blocking in the floors to stiffen them up and this is code in Canada; max 6 foot spacing in floor. Makes a huge difference. They should be engineering beams in the floors to take some of this bounce out.
