I love how every time you have to lift something heavy, you come up with a way of doing it with barely any effort. I wish I had that kind of creativity on the go. My solutions usually come to mind when I'm in bed after having already done stuff the hard way.
I think that the edge Matthias has over the rest of us impatient people is that he is willing to think, take time and do things 'the long way' - that nearly always work out to be quicker anyway!
So, I was going to say plasma cutter something something something. Then you come out with this jig and once again make it look easy. I don't know what they are feeding you people up there in Canada, but it makes us look stupid here in the USA. A hecking angle grinder jig. Holy crap.
Only in the USA will find people that are stupid enough to NOT only call themselves stupid but then decide the rest of us are stupid too. Hey Rob, speak for yourself.
dcveem3 Please note that I said "look stupid". Not that anyone is stupid. Not everything is directed at you personally. Sometimes others are just finding humor in there own inadequacies. It is called humility. Lighten up, life is too short to take offense at everything.
dcveem3 My apologies. I did not mean to anger anyone. I am interested in some of the same things that you are Don. Your cars are obviously not built by a stupid person. My wife is from Tennessee. Her whole family still lives there. I am from Alabama. We are considered inbred simply because of our birthplace. I was attempting to make a joke. Apparently it didn't come across. Again, sorry.
Very nice upgrade, and it removes most of the tripping hazard from around the stove! as a kid, I once tripped on a similar brick hearth, and planted my hand on the corner of a roaring hot wood stove, burned a dandy of a divot into my palm, and scorched all my fingers. Somewhat miraculously, I came away without the slightest scar, but it looked pretty bad for a while.
LOL... Putting a bevel on the edge of stainless steel is called a KNIFE! I love the new place, Matthias. It's a beautiful piece of property with plenty of kid-space. All the projects aside, I hope you and your wife are enjoying the new place.
It would seem that many have not followed Matthias long enough to know that he would not put his wife, let alone his child at risk with anything as dangerous as fire. He, through everything that I have watched and heard of him is quite thorough with all that he engages in...Plus...at the end of the video, he states he will place a security around the stove to protect his child... As a gent mentioned...the stove manufacturer's notes: Grumpy Dave9 hours ago That stove is made by Regency. Directly from the stove's manual: Floor Protection (Ember Protection only required) A combustible floor must be protected by non-combustible material (like tile, concrete board, or certified to UL-1618 or as defined by local codes) extending beneath the heater and a minimum of 6" (152mm) from each side and minimum 16" (406mm) from the front face of the stove and minimum 6" (or the rear clearance to combustibles whichever is smaller) from the rear of the stove.
Very nicely done ✅. I have to agree with that it needs a child safety fence. You have a very beautiful daughter and it would be a very bad thing for her to get hurt. Especially from a wood burning stove. But I have no doubt that you have a really great idea to prevent that, as well as some great parenting. Great video and keep the great videos coming. Thanks for sharing
Great video as always. But little pice of advice. If you want to increese stove effitiency up to 30%, you should add air intake from outside of house. You will be suprised, how much air stove is burning. Now it is taking hot air from inside of the house.
That wouldn't increase stove efficiency, technically, and I'm not entirely convinced by this anyway. The stove has lower heat output as a result of having to heat the outside air, so if your stove is efficiently transferring heat to your house, it shouldn't really matter either way.
Feeding cool outside air into the stove REDUCES the heat output from the stove slightly. But it does increase overall efficiency because you don't have to warm up cold air that is coming into the house to replace the air going up the chimney
First: I can't wait to see all the adorable "help" you get in the shop in coming years. Second: Why didn't you put some kind of scratch pattern (I like a 3/4 overlapped circle) with a 7 1/2" sander/buffer (or something) to get ahead of random Life on the scuff marks?
I love how your daughter and my son are almost the exact same age, I can really relate to what you are going through with a little munchkin running around!
I'd like to watch Wandel take on a large framing project like Matthias Burger. You might like Wally Wallington's experiments & engineering moving large Stonehenge style rocks by himself- ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-E5pZ7uR6v8c.html
Go to a hoisting & lifting course. RU-vid is not the place to get instructed about moving heavy stuff. It’s all fun and games until the load shifts and falls on top of you. Be with 2 persons and use proper lifting equipment like a forklift.
Matthias Wandel I didn’t mean lifting a stove indoors. The way you did it was fine :-) Such a stove is not really “heavy” in my textbook... just not liftable by elbow grease.
I just wondered why you screwed it down, that thing is never going to move! I have the same construction for over 12 years now, still on the very same spot.
It's the same as Izzy cutting circles on the table saw. When I first started wood working in high school, I had kick back on a very large sheet and it floated on the blade and created a perfect curve that was about 1/8" deep.
I got a set of carbide tipped 'locksmith' drill bits for drilling stainless, they're pretty much like a masonry bit but with the tip dressed. I've heard you can modify a masonry bit though. I think real good quality cobalt-HSS bits can do it quite easily too but the carbide tipped ones go through thick stuff like butter... as you'd expect.
That looks very close to a Regency Mid size I had in my last house. If so the pedestal should have an option to feed combustion air from the bottom. I would recommend providing it with exterior air, it makes a big difference, because otherwise all your smoke going up the chimney puts your house under low pressure and cold air comes in to equalize from wherever it can. Helps with draw as well. It was a very noticeable difference to the point I could get by on 4 cord instead of 5. I used 4" insulated aluminum duct to feed it from outside via a window next to it (mine was in the basement) I used a couple of toilet flanges on the interior and exterior of a piece of plywood fitted into the window. The exterior portion of the intake had a 3' vertical shaft, with 2 x 90 degree elbows to keep the elements from getting in. I used a temporary cap that I cut a hole in, the size of the inner diameter of a piece of pipe, and by sandwiching screen between the cap and the pipe, I made a barrier to keep the creepy crawlies and birds out of it.
Cobalt steel drill bits are good for stainless steel. I've done a lot of SS drilling! Use a slow speed, lubricant, and don't stop or it hardens up and is difficult to re-start.
Looked good after. But you know? I really like how it looked before with the bricks. That was a neat look. And no. If that stove is anything similar to my similar lookin stove, they barely get hot at the bottom. So don't worry about the safety police commenters.
I just got a great dose of pleasure when I saw your lifting idea and covering the floor with a cardboard. I'd probably do it the way you did, or perhaps use a hydraulic pump to lift one side of the stove first and then the other (depending on the weight). Nevermind, I enjoyed this vid.
When we got our stove, the chimney sweeper (is that the right translation? I mean the black man, who cleans the chimney and brings luck to the house ;-)) started the first fire in the new stove. When the stove was warm, not hot, he told my daugther (3 y/o at that time) to come and feel the stove. He told her, to never touch the stove, because it is hot. And 10 years later i can tell you: my daughter never burned herself on the stove. I did several times ;-)
There are special drills for making holes in stainless - they generally have a matt black finish that occurs during the heat treatment which also helps stop swarf from sticking to the drill. At least you didn't fall for the old trick of not using a backing, that will wear out a drill bit in less that one hole (DAMHIK). And yes, I would have places a piece of (non-asbestos) fibre cement sheet preferably between stove and the steel or under the steel sheet to protect the wood - stainless is a relatively poor conductor, which means it can get hot spots while the rest of the sheet stays cool - if stainless gets over 700C (black hot) and is let cool slowly it ceases to be rust resistant due to the oxidation of the chrome and nickle.
Those plates under stoves aren't for heat shielding. The legs of a woodstove don't get hot at all, and the stove could sit right on the floor if it wasn't because of embers. The reason for this steel plate. It's there to protect the floor from embers when opening the stove to add wood to it.
> There are special drills for making holes in stainless - they generally have a matt black finish Most HSS drills / mill bits look this way, because that's how steel turns out after hardening. You just don't see that so often any more, because most bits today are coated with some schmu ("HSS Co"). If they don't look like that, then they got extra treatment (cleaning, OD grinding (wood drill bits), titanium-cobalt-terminator-coating etc.
I think it would have been cool if you upside a router and cut out a mortise for the metal. So it would be flush with the floor. But man, just thinking about it is hard work.
Many will comment that you removed an insulator in favor of a conductor, but my experience is that heat rarely goes down. However I would have used a something non-metallic.
Those plates under stoves aren't for heat shielding. The legs of a woodstove don't get hot at all, and the stove could sit right on the floor if it wasn't because of embers. The reason for this steel plate. It's there to protect the floor from embers when opening the stove to add wood to it.
Surprised you didn't go for some sort of a wooden trim to cover those screws and the sharp edge. Guess that could lead to stubbed toes though, and it'd have to match the floor's finish.
A good quality cobalt bit will go through stainless easily, just use a lot of pressure and drill at a slow speed. I use a 1/8" bit for a pilot hole and a step drill to enlarge it if needed, and cutting oil is unnecessary up to 10 gauge material.
Came to read the Safety Sally comments... wasn't disappointed. Think I'll add my wooden nickel to the mix. Since you said that you were going to add a safety fence... that's the thing that will most likely catch fire (assuming you make it out of wood) long before an ember could even think about catching your flooring on fire. I'd look into firefree.com for non-toxic coatings that exceed fire ratings. (We have to do that for mall kiosks if we build any part of them out of wood)
Stainless steel is a pain to work with. I used to have to bend the Vermont Castings barbeque grill parts made out of stainless. No one liked it. And now I have to bend Trane’s stainless steel drain pans for their units.
