Wooden Boat Building, The Rudder, Haven12 1/2 S2-E60

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In the episode of The Art of Boat Building (S2-E60) boat builder Bob Emser shapes and attaches the rudder to the Haven 12 1/2.
“If you’re going to make it, make it beautiful.”
Bob Emser
Chapters:
00:00 Laying out the Tiller
03:35 Shaping the Rudder
06:19 Titebond III vs. Epoxy
08:42 Fairing the Rudder
10:55 Making the Rudder Cheeks
14:45 Sealing the Rudder with Epoxy
16:50 Priming the Rudder
19:09 Mortising and Installing the Gudgeons
24:51 Installing the Pintles
29:38 Fitting the Rudder and Conclusion
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Carvel Planking Playlist:
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Haven 12 1/2 Playlist:
• Season 2 - Haven 12 1/2
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#theartofboatbuilding #artofboatbuilding #makeitbeautiful#woodenboatbuilding #buildingasmallboat #buildingasailboat #shipwright #toolbuilding #Haven12 #herreshoff #shipwright

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Опубликовано:

8 июн 2024

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Комментарии : 98

@tomtruesdale6901 2 года назад

Beautiful rudder Bob. Lots of very fine details in it. Pretty sure the tiller is going to be a work of art.

@GrantTakesPictures 2 года назад

I really appreciate right at the end when the rudder cheeks weren't right you acknowledged you'd need to do it again. So often on RU-vid and TV we see everything go perfectly, but things often don't go as smoothly when us viewers attempt to do it ourselves. So thank you for showing us some of the times when things don't go as expected. It helps all of us understand that sometimes we've got to do things again to make it right, and that's just part of the process.

@DavePilotCH47 2 года назад

When you put the first screw in I said to myself, I bet he lines up the screw slots so that they are inline 👍🏻👍🏻

@richardteale3217 11 месяцев назад

I bet I wasn’t the only one cringing when you tightened up those screws !! Nice work and regards from a fellow builder in England.

@chrislow1002 2 года назад

Bob, I cannot tell you how much I appreciate watching this build. My parents met sailing Hereshoff 12 1/2s in Maine in the ‘40s. The same boats are still raced as a class in Dark Harbor, ME, alongside the Dark Harbor 20s, another gorgeous Hereshoff design. Watching you build a sister design with the same attention to detail as the ones built in the 30s is wonderful.

@thadcampbell3563 2 года назад

As always I love watching a craftsman working on their craft. It's so satisfyingly easy to watch and to see the years of love and dedication go into the project. From taking something so seemingly difficult and turning it into something easily attainable. Mr. Emser you are truly a master of your craft. Thank you for letting the world come with you on your journey into making your little Haven come true.

@antonoat Год назад

Interesting points about the glue v’s epoxy,apparently Titebond is an outstanding fabric glue too so interesting you should mention the patch on your denim jeans!

@onetribeyoyo 2 года назад

Rounding over the screwheads? Absolutely beautiful!

@drop_dtuned6167 2 года назад

The sounds of the mortise accepting the gudgeon and the rudder seating into place. The sight of the rudder finishing the line of the keel. Very pleasing to these senses. Although we can’t feel the feathered finish of the fairing compound or the smell of the freshly cut wood, I will be tasting champagne on launch day.

@seanparker4746 2 года назад

Seriously? Someone had the to say you needed straps for the pintles? Come on people... We don't need to know that a particular viewer is an expert - give me a break. I think you're doing a fantastic job, and the grace and humility you display is truly admirable. Cheers

@glutenfreegam3r177 2 года назад

Nice to see another woodworker/boat builder with knowledge on when/where to use Titebond III (or similar waterproof glues) over epoxy. Cheers!

@horatiohornblower868 2 года назад

Lake Wildwood looks an ideal place to launch and sail the Lady of the Lake. Cannot wait to see that happen!

@TheClBlues 2 года назад

This "rounded screws heads" trick is just a picture of the perfection you show since the beginning of this adventure ! Thanks a lot Bob !

@wagneralencar 2 года назад

i love your videos, is so relax and instructional

@woodman1133 2 года назад

Bob... Your work is immaculate. If there is serenity to be found in fine craftsmanship, then watching you work and visiting your shop is a temple I go to find it. Thank you for sharing!

@mattevans-koch9353 2 года назад

Beautiful work clocking those screws on the pintles Bob. Those are the little touches that make the difference between just a boat and a piece of art that you can sail. Looking forward to seeing this beauty glide through the water.

@frankvoge1610 2 года назад

I was going to say the same! I noticed when Bob mounted the cleats he indexed the slots to the cleat.

@NickDangerThirdGuy 2 года назад

I had a similar problem on a job where the ceiling in foyer of a building was made up of 24 x 24 inch wood panel. Custom made in Italy in 20% humidity. Sealed and finished on one side then installed during the summer in NC, 98% humidity. The tiles had a 1/8 inch lip to fit in ceiling grid track, and when the inevitable warping occurred, they popped out at random to fall 12 feet onto my guys below. It would have been amusing to see everyone scrambling for cover if it hadn't been so dangerous. Nice work on the Haven, BTW, and remember to always check overhead.

@dwaynekoblitz6032 2 года назад

Thank you for a 30 minute video. I definitely appreciate the effort. She's certainly coming along nicely.

@johninerie9251 2 года назад

Bob thanks for the titebond info - just as the “why is he not using epoxy?” Question formed in my mind up comes the explanation. As always great video!

@thepigwillfly5869 2 года назад

Good info about epoxy vs. titebond....I am getting ready to glue some stuff up on my boat too.

@MrKubaitis 2 года назад

Thanks!!! Brilliant hands!!!

@davidc6510 Год назад

Spectacular work on the rudder Bob. The beautiful continues... Thanks for sharing!

@ssolomon999 2 года назад

Thanks for addressing the questions about the pintles.

@donjensenep 2 года назад

One tip for folks new to blueprints when he was referring to up from the line Bob was referring to perpendicular not up relative to the drawings. I know for most this will be a logical thing but when i use to tutor new employees to reading drawings at my jobs I had many a time when I was saying to measure up and I took for granted I was talking about a surface out of the standard X and Y that they measured up. and not in perpendicular to that surface. Excellent video I do not get to catch them all but it really is great when you get into using a scale and how if the drawing is correct you can pull info such as this off of it.

@plakor6133 2 года назад

Snap! Very satisfying. The bronze part into the mortise.

@drop_dtuned6167 2 года назад

I was thinking the same at that moment too. And then quickly imagined Bob feeling that sense of satisfaction.

@JenkinsBoatWorks 2 года назад

Good stuff Brother!

@brianwhitehouse8380 2 года назад

Thanks Bob. I love the look of the faired screw heads.

@Nickle314 2 года назад

Ditto. Unless you had seen it you wouldn't have thought of doing it.

@jimmefish6855 2 года назад

Good Job, Bob

@alexnagle575 2 года назад

I am jumping the gun here since I have not watched the segment yet, but just as I was thinking "why the hell is he using wood glue?" the blue screen popped up. Nice timing!

@acraftman2823 2 года назад

Really enjoying tagging along , thanks for posting.

@garyfroeschner2523 2 года назад

Great stuff

@michaelwilkinson2928 2 года назад

The workmanship, needless to say, remains peerless.

@cdennisb 2 года назад

Always a pleasure watching your craftsmanship!

@sharpfocus5 Год назад

Full of lessons and beauty. Just marvellous.

@mcochran610 2 года назад

I'll only build one rudder in my life, but unfortunately I built it 8 years ago before seeing this video. My technique was incredibly complicated with less elegant results. Thanks for the video and providing such a good example of fine craftsmanship.

@fonhollohan2908 2 года назад

As always Bob you've done a great job on the Rudder and a nice job as well on the fitment. It's nice also to see the traditional color use of the metal primer being used on the rudder. It brings me back to when I was a kid. My father was a shipwright and a finishing carpenter i recall him using that paint when they painted the old fishing skiffs and fishing trawlers with metal primer as well many many years ago.

@lanesteele240 2 года назад

That is such a beautiful boat

@MCsCreations 2 года назад

Amazing work, Bob! Really beautiful how it's coming out! 😃 The color of the primer you used is a beautiful color as well! Some people put just the primer in that color in old cars and they truly look fantastic! 😃 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

@sxsboy2253 2 года назад

Boy… watching you use that brace on the brass screws makes my butt pucker. Over the years I’ve twisted off more than a few trying to get the slot lined up just right. It seems like it’s that last 1/2 a degree that gets me. Anyway the boats looking really good, can’t wait to see it on the water.

@ronlowes2193 Год назад

Totally agree that tightbond is stronger than wood. I’ve had to demonstrate that once or twice and now there is no argument.

@joshualucas1821 2 года назад

Is it weird that I really like the color of that Rust-Oleum primer? It's just a really nice reddish brown.

@serafar 2 года назад

wish u great health mr. .. your job and attention to detail is simply amazing and very inspiring. much appreciate your effort and videos. all the best !!! best regards from Macedonia.

@lacleman9394 2 года назад

As always, a fantastic video Bob. Thank you so much, from Lake Geneva in Switzerland.

@TheArtofBoatBuilding 2 года назад

Glad you enjoyed it

@raychang9512 2 года назад

Bob, you are not just an incredible boatwright you are also a mind reader. Just as I was thinking why you used Titebond glue for the rudder trim you launched into a detailed explanation.

@glassgoat9601 2 года назад

Impressive work as usual!

@thomasvelure6237 2 года назад

Great vide as always Bob.

@danielsondavidf 2 года назад

Excellent detail.

@rick91443 2 года назад

Looks great; also like the faired screw heads...cheers...rr Normandy, Fra.

@petterandersson7429 2 года назад

You make it look easy. Cheers

@richardclark9425 2 года назад

Shellac is a great temporary sealant for preventing warping. It dries instantly and sands off easy

@kenbeiser4443 Год назад

I love watching your craftsmanship. The comments are educational, too. I was hoping you can reduce my fears of the plywood checking even with a two coat epoxy sealer. Is it fir plywood? I have used some light fiberglass cloth in epoxy but I would like to skip that step when using plywood.

@TheArtofBoatBuilding Год назад

Thanks Ken, Yes, it is Douglas fir, marine grade plywood. The use of glass cloth is mostly needed to add strength, as in the hull of a kayak. Sense the rudder is really strong enough the resin is only need for sealing. In theory just a good marine paint is adequate. Thanks for watching. Bob

@garyfairbrother5532 2 года назад

You wouldn’t think that with acclimated walnut and I assume a climate controlled shop that the cheeks would dry that much more in a couple of days to twist like that, would you? I’ve had the same thing happen under the same condition with small box lids that I’ve finished on one side a day or two before the other. %@&*#! I felt your pain, and I’m at least as old as you. Fun to watch the details like shaping the rudder screws to match the profile of the pintle’s. Slicker than snot on a doorknob.

@alperyasinserim 2 года назад

American Pagani :)

@loubob21 2 года назад

A bronze strap would look nice though, even if it's not needed for strength

@stanmoderate4460 2 года назад

Wonderful to watch your detail and precision as usual. Did I spot an error? When cutting the cheeks was your feather board not backwards?🙃

@johnfriend240 2 года назад

Bob, I see more trouble with the tiller hole. You need the length of the pintle pin times the sine of 45 deg (about 0.9 inch) to mount and unmount the rudder/tiller assembly. I don't think the hole in the transom is large enough to accommodate that lift. Another thing to think about is that I remember when I was sailing sabots that sometimes the rudder would float off the gudgeons. Your rudder has more displacement below the waterline than a sabot rudder.

@scottgorman7166 Год назад

Nice rudder...even though you sealed the ply with epoxy and primer and of course the finish paint won't the plywood check and feather. I usually put a thin light weight fiberglass cloth over the ply to keep it from checking/feathering. The screws directly attached to the endgrain of the ply will last? Why not add wooden dowels/plugs of a hardwood for the screws especially at the head of the rudder where the depth of the ply is quite a bit smaller then the bottom. I would be afraid of eventual pullout of the screws. Never the less beautiful job!

@huntington46750 2 года назад

This time it's not too late. I've been planning a rudder build for months. I already purchased wrapped 1 by mahogany boards from Menards. I plan on gluing them up to have a 1-1/2 x 12 x 72 in long board to begin cutting. I've been told not to use Titebond III and use epoxy and wood flour instead. I do plan on using epoxy to finish as I want the wood to shine through. The rudder is a swing design but a small portion may be in the water. What would you go with?

@TheArtofBoatBuilding 2 года назад

Hi Steve, You can use either Titebond III or Epoxy both will do the job. By adding wood flour to thicken the epoxy is fine. However, you will see the joint as a line of epoxy. As I had mentioned in the video that you can clamp Titebond III, you'll be getting an almost invisible joint. The fact that you are going to epoxy coat the rudder, as I did the, joints will be more than protected. Leaving it a bright finish will be stunning. Just remember that epoxy is not UV protected so several coats of a good quality UV marine varnish will be needed. Best wishes on a fantastic result! Thanks for watching, Bob

@mjmdiver1137 2 года назад

Great work again Bob... I was suprised you didn't reinforce the edge of the rudder with some fiberglass fabric strips while you were applying epoxy. Is this because the fiberglass would not be in keeping with the spirit of a wooden boat or is reinforcing not needed? I'm thinking about reinforcing for dents, bunps and scrapes in the first few inches of the lower portion and the '"leading" edge (trailing edge when under sail), not strength.

@WayneMyer 2 года назад

What is the physical/chemical purpose of using rusty metal primer? It was my understanding that RMP required oxidized metal to bond properly, although I'm guessing I'm mistaken there.

@ba5781 Год назад

Prima con Fuńa

@lakebummer 2 года назад

What keeps the rudder from floating up out of the pins? The tiller?

@bullhippo9023 2 года назад

Why did you recess the rudder gudgeons on the hull, was it to prevent Twisting?

@TheArtofBoatBuilding 2 года назад

That is what the plans call for. You are most likely correct, that they will stay where they belong. Thanks for watching! Bob

@R.E.HILL_ 2 года назад

Surprised you didn't add a layer of cloth for wear protection...

@deancochran5287 2 года назад

Fantastic work…will you be sailing on Lake Michigan? I was trying to figure out where you’d take her for the first splash.

@TheArtofBoatBuilding 2 года назад

Hi Dean, No, I'm not that good of a sailor (yet). I own property on Lake Wildwood in Illinois, which is about 30 minutes away. It's a good size lake and I'll be able to keep the boat in the water the entire season, a must for a carvel planked boat. Are you nearby? Thanks for the question and watching! Cheers, Bob

@jameseaton905 2 года назад

@@TheArtofBoatBuilding I was thinking the same thing... can't wait to see that beautiful boat gliding along!

@MMallagutti 2 года назад

Bob, that green putty you used and the epoxy base?

@TheArtofBoatBuilding 2 года назад

Yes, epoxy fairing compound from TotalBoat.

@robertbamford8266 2 года назад

I’ve been using the rustoleum rusty metal primer since you first mentioned it (hull exterior?). I figure if it works for salt water immersion, it’ll be fine (probably excessive) for fresh. I suspect resawing the cheek lumber probably also contributed to the warping. Thanks for the video. Questions: How do/did you gauge the depth for the forstner bit? I always wind up guessing based on the thickness of the cutting head. And I frequently have to shim to get the depth exactly right. The other question: was there just an error in part of the plan for the tiller shape?

@TheArtofBoatBuilding 2 года назад

Hi Robert, Yes, the rudder cheeks warping was a rookie mistake.Just didn't consider how fast they dried out. Some suggestions I've gotten is to wet them and clamp together. Honestly it will just be easier to start over. I will then seal all of the surfaces at the same time. Boat building is a journey of learning! I judged the depth by adding the size of the gudgeon flange + the plywood template. I put a make a mark on the bit with a sharpie and bored to that depth. Yes, the tiller plan is incorrect. In my discussion with Eric Dow he confirmed that the pattern was incorrect and that scaling off of the construction plan was what one needs to do. Thanks for you question and watching! Cheer, Bob

@robertbamford8266 2 года назад

@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thanks for the response. I’m glad you caught that error on your own. Pretty frustrating when it turns out to be a known error that has not been published. Reading between the lines in your narrative, I suspect you spent a bit of time trying to figure out YOUR mistake, since the plans had to be correct.

@ned711 2 года назад

I wonder if the tiller is fixed on the rudder, or is to be hinged so it can it at least partially swing up. Allso, will the tiller and rudder be able to be shipped from aboard the boat, or will it have to be mounted on the pintels while on the trailer or the dock?

@TheArtofBoatBuilding 2 года назад

Hi Ned, The tiller is fixed. It attaches with a bolt through the rudder cheeks. It could remain on the boat during transport as long as the tiller is tied off as I showed it the example. However, by removing that one bolt the tiller and rudder could be removed. Considering all for the rigging and mast that need to be removed it seems like small task to remove the rudder. Great question thanks for watching! Bob

@thepigwillfly5869 2 года назад

I have a question about coating with epoxy. I understand you did two coats back-to-back to get a chemical bond. I recently made a plywood shelf for one of my cockpit lockers and also did two coats; however, I allowed the first coat to dry before applying the second coat. I tried to sand with 100 grit between coats but the amine blush just clogged the paper. I washed the board with warm water and used a green scotch-brite pad...but had fish-eyes after applying the second coat of epoxy. Any tips to get a good, clean second coat if you wait (like I did) between coats?

@TheArtofBoatBuilding 2 года назад

That's a good question. How long did you wait between coats? It is my experience that if the paper got clogged the epoxy most likely wasn't fully cured even though it may have felt cured to the touch. The best way to reduce blushing is to work in warm temperatures (the epoxy sets up fast, reducing the blush window) and with humidity at low levels. Unfortunately, I think the sanding may have imbedded the amine blush into the epoxy. As you know amine blush is water soluble. It's recommended not only thoroughly washing the cured epoxy with clean warm water but also using an all-purpose soap and clearing your pad or stiff brush often. I'd make sure the shelf was in a warm environment for a day, give it a good water soap cleaning, let it thoroughly dry, and hand sand. Best wishes! Bob

@thepigwillfly5869 2 года назад

@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Bob, thanks for the advice, I will try that. I suspect you are correct and although the epoxy seemed to be cured, it likely wasn't fully cured. I think I waited about 24-hours between coats.

@rossfudd256 2 года назад

Alright I have to ask. You started with the rudder with parallel sides used a planer and sander to taper it. but then added fairing compound and then sanded it smooth. Why not just sand the wood smooth and then go to the epoxy?

@TheArtofBoatBuilding 2 года назад

Hi Ross, It's hard to see in the video that the surface, even after sanding, wasn't fair. The main reason is with the grain of the plywood layers going in opposite directions it's very difficult to get a faired surface. At 17:00 it can be see, once the rudder had its final sanding, the high and low spots depending on how much fairing compound remained. Thanks for your question and watching! Cheers, Bob

@michaelwilkinson2928 2 года назад

How will you deal with the paint cracking around the seams of the lower planks, especially where the garboard strakes meet the keel (seen when you were preparing the lower gudgeon inset)?

@TheArtofBoatBuilding 2 года назад

Hi Michael, When she's ready to hit the water I will give the hull a light sanding and fresh paint. As the boat sits the wood will move once she's in the water the planks will take up and seal. The thing about a wooden hull is they are never perfect depending on many conditions the wood will do what it wants. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob

@seanparker4746 2 года назад

Yeah - great question!

@noelmartin4908 2 года назад

Was there a video addressing the rudder build, Also why did you use Plywood for the rudder?

@TheArtofBoatBuilding 2 года назад

Hi Noel, Yes, in the previous video (S2-E59) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3fSAArsB0TE.html I layout the rudder. I used marine grade (Douglas Fir) plywood as that is what the plans call. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob

@noelmartin4908 2 года назад

Thanks for the reply. By the way I noticed the vest you were wearing, is it and are t shirts available for purchase.

@DutchKC9UOD Год назад

If you coated one side of the cheeks they will dry that side out

@barneygoogle4003 2 года назад

Wonder if it would work to just clamp those cheeks together back to back and steam them.

@lanesteele240 2 года назад

What had happened was

@thomasarussellsr 2 года назад

Shame the cheeks warped, maybe instead of pre-sealing just the insides of the cheeks you might seal the entire cheeks? Then what ever you cut away, if anything, can be resealed? I guess I'll see as I catch up with the videos...🤔.

@user-hs8id3tg9w 2 года назад

I beg you, turn on subtitles in Russian

@TheArtofBoatBuilding 2 года назад

I unfortunately don't have control over your subtitles. That is a task you will need to do on your end. There is a link that may help. www.wikihow.com/Turn-On-RU-vid-Subtitles К сожалению, я не могу контролировать ваши субтитры. Это задача, которую вам нужно будет выполнить с вашей стороны. Вот ссылка, которая может помочь. Щелкните изображение своего профиля. Нажмите «Язык» или «Местоположение». Выберите язык или местоположение, которое вы хотите использовать. Языковые настройки RU-vid применяются ко всему сайту, но язык видео остается на исходном языке. Языковые настройки сохраняются в браузере. Если вы когда-нибудь очистите кеш и файлы cookie, вам нужно будет снова сбросить языковые настройки.