An easy way to inlay a design into your next wood working project. Great for furniture and guitar fretboards. Show your support! Visit www.eguitarplans.com/ and buy a plan. Or visit highline-custom-guitars-2.cre... and buy a shirt!
@@darthjarjarbinks8953 theres a bunch of people doing it but it was a Japanese or a chinese guy that started the trend with videos of him repairing coffee tables with them.
Awesome!! Thank you so much for sharing this very simple but amazing way to inlay to be able to personalize our work!! I am grateful for your willingness to share your tricks of the trade!
Thank you for sharing this technique. As someone who is just getting started, the use of inexpensive materials take some of the pressure off my mind. All the best.
I LOVE IT MAN I have been messing up a bunch of Brazilian pepperwood trying to make a handle for my father's knife with his initials in it. I have failed multiple This is going to do the trick thank you very much 👍✌️
I've been doing this for a while, but I use epoxy and transtint dye. The great thing about your method or expoy, is that you can do very small detailed designs that would be very difficult to execute with pearl or wood inlay
Guys, Of all the woodwork kits I have bought over the years, this is the best collection I have. Its an excellent resource for beginners as well as seasoned woodworkers.
I may use that technique on a muzzle loader kit I am about to put together... was looking for a type of only to do (there really are a ton of them), this one looks both easy yet intricate and is still one of the cheaper ways of doing it.... THANK YOU!
I think you could also make inlays out of dental composite. Easy to use, durable and can be polished to a very glossy surface. Brand new composite is kinda expensive, but you can use expired products. They work just as well, just cannot be used on patients for legal reasons. Ask your dentist or local dental school, they probably have some old ones lying around.
Very Cool!! I've just started experimenting with using tinted two part ultra clear acrylic resin compounds for inlays. So far, I have to say that the results have been extremely promising. There are soft resins, rubbery resins etc for making costume jewelry and such. The soft resins didn't hold up very well, and I never tried the rubbery versions for obvious reasons. But the acrylic extra hard and ultra clear resins has turned out great results. and can be tinted in any color you want with commercially available acrylic tints and paints. Nice video!! Bob in Germany
I've worked a lot with acrylic resin casting. The possibilities are endless... I would say that using resin is far more efficient and more asthetically pleasing than wood filler. Easier to apply and no cyanocryolate needed. Resin can be filled with fine metal dust, to create a metal inlay effect. Most especially pleasing is bronze, or copper dust, but even crushed mineral could be used to good effect, such as ground lapis-lazulae, malachite, even iron oxide.
I got a cough for 3 days with the CA . Keep me awake for all that time . . Not realizing that’s what caused it it happened again to me . I even went to the doctor after the first time . He didn’t know what it was either . I finally figured it out . Do the right thing .....Ventilation ! I was spreading it out on a hobby project very large areas in a small basement room . I still use it often but carefully.
This inspires me to do my own custom fretboard. I priced down having it done from a few shops found on web, I’m not that well off financially to afford those rates for an aesthetic purpose. Even worse, I was ordering my dream guitar and way out of my price I would pay. I even got a price from esp. $8,000.00. After shopping on eBay, I ordered all parts needed for less than $200.00. I’m on my way to building my dream guitar myself for a hell of a lot less. I would really love to have my 80’s ex series Ibanez done professionally due to it being my best playing guitar out of 20 guitars. Most inexpensive one next to my Jackson Charvelle from 80’s as well. If I can master custom fretboards, I will be starting my own brand of guitar with any fret design anyone wants, relatively inexpensive. First off, I just ordered a new fretboard for around $50. Not much of a loss if I screw up. Ordered the wood filler he is using. Also ordered fret material sheet I can make inlays with. I found a sticker version of inlays I would like to use as patterns already sized for me. Have to love RU-vid university for learning skilled trades. Edit: I build, remodel, do all exterior aspects of a house. This project cannot be more complicated. I have a bad habit of building guitars from parts on eBay and then selling it on eBay. Not very profitable but I did it for fun. I do make my own bodies but I have patterns to copy so it really doesn’t count. This will make my guitars unique and each one of a kind. If I pull this off I will be doing it under my bosses business and let him market my brand. He’s good at it.
I've done similar with caulking filler. Good way to start doing inlays. Almost foolproof. (Though nothing is totally foolproof to a suitably talented fool !!)
Thank you for a great video and for sharing....a couple of questions: Can the routing process be accomplished with a trim router, with plunge base? I have read that the heavier trim router is more stable than the Dremel....and I already have the trim router!
Hey Chris, another great video. I wish I had seen this one a lot sooner though haha I’ve been doing my inlays using the glow in the dark technique you’ve shared before. I’m curious if you’ve ever tried mixing the glow power in with the timber mate or not.
Love this and your other instructionals. Gonna try this on a headstock design. But I want to match a color I’m using. Can you expand on tinting the filler? What options you recommend? Thanks in advance sir!
hi chris...nice work! can you please tell me where to get those little stencils, or images you use like that little long horn skull thing you used in this video?
Once the filler is hardened with the CA Glue, does that make it resist staining? I'm thinking about making some inlaid coasters using this technique and I'm thinking I should stain after the inlay is put it, but since i'm wanting to use a Dark Walnut stain with the white filler I want to make sure that the filler wont stain.
Do you not need to plunge route this before you begin with the precision router? I see stew Mac makes both. I’m trying to decide which one to get and if I need the plunge router for this sort of project.
Good nice and easy, but I thought crushed mother of pearl would work here also ??? I do like the trick with the Super glue, done that also with baking soda to instantly cure or harden it Thanks for the info
The problem with this is the sanding, with the amount you sanded, that guitar neck will no longer be even, the should be done while making the neck not after, then the issue of filler and glue in the fret dividers won't be an issue
good thing hes not sanding it that far down and its not on a neck yet. the radius probably hadnt been worked in yet anyways. honestly he couldve carefully cleaned it with a damp towel
I'm sure a few strokes with a radius block would even things out again, don't worry. Also, StewMac sells some nice little slot clearing bits that'll take care of any leftovers.
@@joelbennett9014 - Agreed. Though the depth of the inlay routing would need to be increased evnely across the width of the fretboard, in order to avoid thinning-out of the inlay filler towards the edge of the board when sanding with a radius block.
You could also paint like metal flake candy apple lacquer and probably do a hand rub color tint into that first you have to use some kind of silver base or gold base go to get the candy metallic behind it You might even be able to get into your filler
Hi chris, I have a question as to the next step of this process. how does the neck oil up (I'm using BOIL - boiled linseed oil)? Does the CA glue used to harden the timber mate, bleed into the the surrounding grain and does the affect the finish with the BOIL. Again, many thanks for sharing. great work. -AJ
Not that I've read ALL the comments, but has anyone noticed that the CA glue that 'dries rock hard' - was NOT removed from the fret grooves? The issue wasn't even mentioned.
I notice all using inlay powder work on UNFINISHED pieces of wood. I am trying to replace missing inlay on very nice little Indian elephant leg table. How do I protect the finished wood
He was using a Stewart MacDonald routing base made for both Dremel, and Fordom tools. Here's a link to their site: www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Tools_for_Inlay_and_Pearl_Cutting/Precision_Router_Base/Precision_Router_Base_Complete_Set.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwnv27BRCmuZqMg_Ddmt0BEiQAgeY1l0kLPJMZdNYLLqIFPTuEoXZJ2c7CEnx4TQssghTydxIaAvw_8P8HAQ
Check Rio Grande in Albuquerque, NM. There's all kinds of bits in different shapes and sizes that are commonly used in silver and gold work. Their web is www.riogrande.com Good luck!
This guitar was sold shortly after the video was made and I have heard nothing regarding long term durability. However, others have used this technique long before me and I haven't heard any negative reports.
Is the CA glue not soaked into the wood as well and effecting the finishing when it's applied ? ( Assuming the wood wasn't finished wit oil or varnish at the time of the routing )
That's part of why he sanded it down after letting it cure. Still, I'm not sure if a bit of light sanding would remove all the superglue leeched into that rosewood...
Yes, you can. Make sure you put down some sealer first to keep the color from soaking into the surrounding wood. Pack the colored soda into your inlay design and let it dry. Then, apply the superglue and let it soak into the colored soda and cure. Sand off the excess and you're done.
I thought about trying this with a tinted epoxy resin as the filler. Have you ever tried that? I imaging the sanding step would be harder with the epoxy. With the proper white and silver tints it might be possible to achieve a faux mother of pearl effect with the epoxy I think. I am considering trying it for a head-stock logo....