Here is my favourite install to date a Bosch 8000 with the integral diverter valve, this has allowed me to do away with the need for any 2 port valves. also piping up the spare solar coiler has made for super fast recovery on the cylinder
Brilliant install 👏 great to see someone taking pride in their work! Question, is there any issue with lever valves on a heating side of system? I was told there was but I'd far rather use lever valves as they seem much more reliable to me than gate valves. Just wondering do you need specific brand or is it just wrong information I've been told? Keep up the great work 🙌🙌
Much prefer lever valves over gate valves! There’s no issue on a system boiler with lever valves. If it was a regular boiler then that’s a different matter as you could isolate the boiler from the F and E tank. Plus if the valves failed then it would mean the regular boiler would be pressurised.
There’s no reason why you couldn’t use lever valves instead of gate valves on any heating system. The only exception to this (I believe) would be for a bypass, where fine adjustments are necessary and the gate valve mechanism is far better suited.
It was a complete pleasure to work with Hartley Heating and Plumbing on the installation. The wiring to the boiler was completed by myself. Normally with an Unvented cylinder installation you would use a 2 port valve and use the safety limit stat to shut the heat off the heat source. With the integral diverter valve kit you achieve this by wiring the safety limit stat direct into the boiler. The Installation and service instructions detail what’s required with the wiring.
The cylinder sensor is wired into the boiler direct, so the boiler monitors the temperature of the cylinder. The safety limit thermostat is wired in to the live of the boiler so in the effect the cylinder overheats the boiler shuts off. Similar principle to a safety cut out on a condense pump and overfill on that.
@@raheatingservices652 What controls the hot water, is it the boiler just as and when according to the cylinder sensor? There's no switched demand on the hot water side so it must be "always on". What if the customer wants time control for hot water?
Rate your workmanship Better than outstanding. Had a similar WB8000 system boiler and tank fitted at my parents place last year, our plumber was also very clean and tidy with the pipework, but you've take the job to a new level. Wish you could do the plumbing work at my place. Best of success with your work 👍
I really like the look of that pipework. Those clamps look great. You obviously take a lot of pride in your work. That is so much cleaner than most of what you would see in a North American home. Then again, we generally don't have anywhere near that much pipework. Just a hot water boiler and that's about it. Almost all homes in Québec are heated with electric systems. In other jurisdictions, gas is more prevalent, and that's generally completely separated from the hot water system.
Looks superb - I've got a very similar (but previous generation) system but with the Greenstar 30CDi Classic System & Greenstore SC210 with a Wave controller, filter and the optional Integral Diverter all installed 7+ years ago and still like new. Not as neat and tidy as this one though!
Very nice work. Found your channel through Allen Hart. Subscribed now. 😊 Nice to see silver, I'm not keen on black backings, look nice but make dark small cupboards even darker for the next guy.
Great work as always. From one plumber to another. One thing to comment on. The bypass setup is after the magnetic filter so won’t that slow flow water into the boiler after the filter?? Just a thought. But always easier to pic at things after the job is done. Still great to watch
Beautiful work, what are your thoughts about unions to the manifolds that are on the tank? Ya know one day when it needs to be replaced or serviced. It would be a shame to have to get the torch back out.
Really impressed as I’m a gas engineer and learn something new today when he bends the pipe with water and it never seen that done Great idea makes perfect sense enjoy the video👍
Extremely neat and tidy instal fantastic pipework, Nice to see Rich doing some actual work :) well eating lol (double check his wiring tho) if he see's this, he should twig who I am :). look fwd to the next vid.
@@raheatingservices652 your experience grows :-) and shows in the job shown. glad ya twigged. Bet he did not lift the 400 out like he did the 8000 in 😜
@@hartleyheatingandplumbing9801 I have also subscribed so I will share every video you upload. It’s amazing to see such good quality in our industry. Thanks for sharing and good luck
Am I correct in understanding this means you can set a different hot water and CH temp on the boiler? And it heats according to which call it gets from the controller?
Hi, brill install! Well done. Just wondering why client didn't get the worster controller as the nest doesn't do weather compensation modulation only on/off?
I'd give it a 7/10. You can have 10/10 if you tell me you used weather comp (nest doesn't count unless you're running opentherm), upgraded the the TRVs to pressure independent, mapped the pump to match the index circuit, got the rads running at a nice low MWT to take maximum advantage of the lovely PDHW you installed and covered your nice shiny pipes in the thickest lagging you could find.
Depends on the wall hung boiler, things like the Ideal Classics, Baxi Solo’s are still going strong. I know Worcester Bosch endurance test products and can last up to 25 years.
Hi Mohammed, I did the electrics to the boiler myself. I’m another heating engineer that understands the electrical side of this installation that Hartley Heating and Plumbing didn’t feel the sparky would fully understand the set up with the Nest, Cylinder, integral diverter valve etc
👌great install. Couple of questions though. 1. Why feeding coils in parallel and not loop in loop out. 2. Why not use Worcester controls through EMS so as to achieve load compensation and or weather compensation. Asking to get different perspective and not to be picky.
Personal preference to load/weather compensation. I would say most end users are not used to low flow temperature going around the heating circuit. When I was in technical support for WB most common queries we got was on the FW100 weather comp control. Common complaint was the radiators were cool when it was colder outside we had a set of instructions to maximise flow temp from the boiler. We normally advised after the call to get in touch with the installer and to have it removed.
@@raheatingservices652 I agree so after few early installs I switched back to load compensation which has worked fine. My learning was if anyone want to time the heating than weather comp no good. But for continuous heating it works brilliantly. My own house I have only weather comp(advance weather comp) and no thermostat and it works perfectly fine.
I dont think theres a way you can have different flow temps on more than 1 heating zones, obviously the dhw takes priority and must fire at full rate, you can then weather comp all heating zones but not differentiate them as far as i'm aware
Proper Class install mate! Love the touch with the silver paint 🤌 one thing...your waste pipework for the D2, is that high temp pipe? I was of the understanding that d2 from a cylinder can discharge into 1" 1/2 but the waste pipe must be high temperature pipe...please correct me if I'm wrong though!
Hi thanks for posting. Really nice work. Can I ask? It looked like you fitted a isolation valve between the (combined pressure reducing/pressure release valve,pressure vessels) and the cylinder on the cold water pipe. My understanding is there should be no way of isolating between the cylinder and the safety devices . The only fail safe would be the TPRV. It was hard to see from the video. Is that what was done and is it against regulations or manufactures instruction? No hate just though it’s a distinction worth making. 👍🏼
Not hating on the install as its a very neat bit of pipework, but the valve shouldnt be there. To avoid the need to drain off the cylinder i personally take the CWCV above the top of the cylinder , it then requires minimum draining for servicing or replacing.
You don’t need a 2 port, as it states in the Worcester bosch cylinder instructions for the cylinder. You need to be able to shut down the heat source we achieved this by wiring the safety limit cut out direct into the boiler. Standard unvented installation yes, 2 Port and safety cut out required.
Yes that is the problem spraying pipes etc all takes more time and most people don't appreciate all that .I do the best I can with the time and use the benders as much as I can to get a nice neat job
Boiler has a cylinder flow and return. Central heating flow and return. The integral diverter valve operates the same way it does on the Greenstar combination boilers. When the arm is fully up it’s in hot water/heating the cylinder. Down central heating. It works on the return so shuts off the pathways to either the cylinder return or heating return. Hope this helps Umar 👌🏻
So you add integral Diverter valve to avoid 2 port valve, whether it is good choice depend on what type it was, if with hot water cylinder 2 pipes( flow and return), I don’t think it is good idea. Traditional system(2 pipe) is perfect.
Boiler needs to behave differently when doing heating vs hot water. For heating a lower or variable temp is ideal and for hot water you want high temp. With this you do priority hot water and play with multiple control options on heating side to create better comfort and efficiency. You can do the same with traditional s plan system as well with using Worcester wiring control box but this is much easier in single zone applications.
Depends on your application, if it was an existing cylinder which was vented in an airing cupboard boiler in the kitchen and you go for Unvented you wouldn’t run extra pipework between the boiler and cylinder. If it was a new installation then this would be a viable option. Another scenario would be if was a gravity cylinder (2 pipes to cylinder and 2 pipes from boiler to the pump and heating circuit) you could do this integral diverter valve set up.
Hey lads that’s a neat install 🔥is this Worcester’s way of doing PDHW? Or can the diverter go to mid position ? Not that you’d want it to go mid Position as PDHW is the way forward
The diverter motor they use is the same one they use in the combination boilers. So the motor doesn’t go into mid position. It will favour hot water as that’s the shortest demand if it has a choice of heating and hot water. Hope this helps 👍🏻
