While not useful in the sense that I will never build a steam anything, I find these videos entertaining from a mechanical perspective , how they go together and how they work.
Having done quite a lot of laboratory glasswork, can I suggest that you stick with a fine file for taking off the edges of your site glass tube, or some fine emery.
Hi Keith, a tip from the 1970's Pathology Laboratory - I was trained to heat the end of a piece of freshly-cut glass tubing in a bunsen burner for 20 to 30 seconds. As the glass heats to red, it softens and the jagged ends "smooth out". It's quick and avoids any risk of shattering.
I understand why Keith does it the way he does , glass when molten is subject to surface tension and gives a flared/domed end not suitable to slip in the gaskets/silicon tube.
It is a good idea to do that really, but I would have to change the burner head on the massive blowtorch at The Steam Workshop and that takes time .... I will try it in my home workshop though, because rounding the edges is a very useful thing to do when pushing silicone tubing onto the ends . . .
Dear Mr Appleton, I'm a bit worried about my husband. He watches you videos, day in and day out. Recently the situation has got even worse. I don't watch your films, but I hear your voice in my house, all day. I keep hearing the words, 'Bacho Spanner and Cellulose thinners'...I think he is REWATCHING the same video again and again...what do you suggest. Mrs Holland.
Hi Keith, my ash pan and grate on my Chub will not move at all. I see from your last video that the boiler rests on the ash pan top, if I have picked up the explanation correctly. My boilers in place at the moment, is it possible to remove them like this. Wondering what I would do if I needed to remove the fire quickly! Any advice appreciated.
Another easy method to remove the sharp edges from glass is fire polishing. Just hold the ends in a strong blue flame from a blow torch and rotate it to provide even heat for 30 secs to a min and the edge will curl over and become smooth. Just don't over heat it.
Keith - I have been watching your videos for the last 6 months and this series has been really good as I am about to start a Polly Model 5” gauge kit. In all your work you reference your trusty Bahco adjustable spanner. What size is it and where did you get it from?
You dont suppose some one may have tried to use a mechanical lubricator and had plans to put it in on the wet pipe? (speculating the reason for the hole). I wouldnt put a snifter valve in a smoke box. That would be plain nuts! To have one there the owner would be risking sucking some soot or other contaminant into the valve and then the snifter would be stuck open. Yup good idea to solder it off.
